|
southbayclimber
Sep 30, 2004, 10:42 PM
Post #1 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 83
|
I have all the books, but I always like to hear what you all suggest.
I'm looking for multi-pitch routes in the valley or meadows. Three people, looking for 5.6-5.8 routes, but prefer steaper climbs. Have done the manure pile, don't mind a longer walk in.
Thanks for your suggestions,
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Sep 30, 2004, 10:50 PM
Post #2 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
I haven't done it yet, but Braille Book is on my list... I've heard it's on the stout side for the grade, and steep. Gotta hike in and walk off.
|
|
|
|
|
southbayclimber
Sep 30, 2004, 11:28 PM
Post #3 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 83
|
Thanks,
I'm a little nervous about the offwidth though, any beta on it? and any other suggestions.
J
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Sep 30, 2004, 11:34 PM
Post #4 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Have you done royal arches? 16 pitches. Only 3 are 5.7, no big deal.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Sep 30, 2004, 11:46 PM
Post #5 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
In reply to: Thanks, I'm a little nervous about the offwidth though, any beta on it? and any other suggestions. J
The OW is real and old school 5.8. A lot of gymbred climbers will consider it 5.9 or harder. But its short and sweet in reality. It is definitely more demanding than that little rattly fist thing over the bulge on NUtcracker. There is a 5.6 slot to contend with as well. And higher up the 5.8 IS harder than 5.8 in my opinion, where the fixed pins are, I think Super Taco calls it 5.9 now. Stout but all there.
You may want to hold off on this one for a bit, as a party of three. What with your nervousness, and the 2 plus hour approach and 2 hour descent, this thing has potential epic written all over it.
Other 5.6 - 5.8 mulitpitch? Man, that's the thing with the Valley... you can read that guidebook as well as I, there just ain't that many of them! I just looked again at the Reid recommended list for 5.6 to 5.8...
You've done the Nutcracker Suite, you're running out of 3 star mulitpitch 5.8 or under after Braille Book and Snake Dike.
Seems like the good valley action starts at 5.9 bro. You can always pull on a piece or two (just remeber traffic jams with 3 people if you are on a popular route!)
Consider getting off the beaten path? Tollhouse. Chiquito Dome. Fresno Dome. All of these offer multipitch routes in your target range. Less climbers too.
Cheers
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
southbayclimber
Sep 30, 2004, 11:46 PM
Post #6 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 83
|
I was just looking at that on supertopo. I think thats the winner. Thanks again.
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Sep 30, 2004, 11:57 PM
Post #7 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
Some other good choices for starters would be Bishops Terrace, 5.8, Munginella 5.6, Grack center, 5.6. See if everyone is up to speed and then head for the longer climbs. There are plenty of shorter climbs in the 8-9 range but the quality takes a jump at 9! You may be a little short on daylight this time of year without a fast moving party but there's plenty of fun to be had on the shorter ones esp. since the crowds should be down.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Oct 1, 2004, 1:40 AM
Post #8 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: Some other good choices for starters would be Bishops Terrace, 5.8, Munginella 5.6, Grack center, 5.6.
Since they've climbed together, I assume they already know they work well as a team. If not, it might be good to find out on shorter stuff like you suggested.
Grack Center is fun, but low angle (he wanted steep). In that part of GPA, I'd recommend the Cow, Right over Grack Center. The 2nd pitch is fun anyway. A flaring arch that probably feels steeper than it is.
If lower angle stuff is OK, I'd recommend Snake Dike (IIRC, parts are steeper than Grack Center). Long hike though...
If it's gotta be steep, 5.6-5.8, & multpitch, I might go to the Leap: Corrugation Corner, Surrealistic Pillar, Traveller Buttress (I think you can you can avoid the 5.9 slot on P2 by climbing P1 of Corrugation Corner), Haystack, Preparation H, etc.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Oct 1, 2004, 1:55 AM
Post #9 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*The OW is real and old school 5.8. A lot of gymbred climbers will consider it 5.9 or harder. But its short and sweet in reality. It is definitely more demanding than that little rattly fist thing over the bulge on NUtcracker. There is a 5.6 slot to contend with as well. And higher up the 5.8 IS harder than 5.8 in my opinion, where the fixed pins are, I think Super Taco calls it 5.9 now. Stout but all there.*
All due respect to trad meister Milquetoast but I don't remember wedging any body parts into the BB during the couple of times I've done it, there's these big knob thingies you face climb on, you do run it out quite a bit as I recall...
|
|
|
|
|
megableem
Oct 1, 2004, 1:55 AM
Post #10 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2004
Posts: 160
|
.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Oct 1, 2004, 2:24 AM
Post #11 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
Snake Dike is excellent.
Nurdle (5.8) at Pat and Jack is a releatively steep 2 pitch route that's quite nice and puts you in great position to rap down and TR Knob Job (10b) or Sherrie's Crack (10c).
Knob Hill has lots in the 1-2 pitch range. Doesn't protect as well as Manure Pile in places. Church Bowl is the another good place to crag in that range.
The Sunnyside Bench Regular Route (5.0 old 5.4 new) is really a great route, and improbably steep for the grade. You can 2nd-3rd class all the way up to the base of the Lost Arrow too if you are so inclined.
As others have said, Braille Book is stout. You can stem through a lot of it, but it might save you some energy to be able to do a bit of ow and have a solid fist jam working for you (crux for me was a jam over a roof/bulge down low).
The first two pitches of Reeds Regular Route (nominally 5.9) are easier than a lot of 5.8 pitches, IMO. Ejesta is a widening 5.8 and is probably good practice for Braille Book, as is Keystone Corner (1 pitch of knobby stemming w/ a crack in the back) across the street at 5 and Dime. TRing Copper Penny would probably be good Braille Book training too. It's harder, but has lots of knobs, and then an ow.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Oct 1, 2004, 2:39 AM
Post #12 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: It's 3 (or 4) pitches long. Haven't you ever been up to the Terrace? |
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Oct 1, 2004, 2:45 AM
Post #13 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
In reply to: In reply to: It's 3 (or 4) pitches long. Haven't you ever been up to the Terrace? I knew there was plenty of stuff above it, but didn't realize that was part of the route. Reid & Supertopo both show only the commonly done 1 or 2 pitch route as Bishop's Terrace. I checked Roper, and he's got the full route description. Cool! Maybe I need to go finish it now...
My guide shows 3...One of the belays is in the middle of the pitch that is generally done as one 190 ft. pitch. The third is off to the right on the terrace proper. My guide also shows a little 5.6 chimney at the right side of the terrace that I've never climbed, but it would make a 3rd or 4th pitch out of it... Be sure to rap off to the right to a second rap at the anchors on top of the 5.5 dihedral (ahem...unlike my recent forage straight down the trees in the rain, no less...) If you go off to the right, you only need one 60m rope.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Oct 1, 2004, 2:46 AM
Post #14 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: The first two pitches of Reeds Regular Route (nominally 5.9) are easier than a lot of 5.8 pitches, IMO. Ejesta is a widening 5.8 and is probably good practice for Braille Book
I haven't climbed Braille Book (still on my list), but Ejesta was pretty easy, so I wouldn't expect it to be training for hard 5.8. P2 was amazing though.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Oct 1, 2004, 2:52 AM
Post #15 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
In reply to: I haven't climbed Braille Book (still on my list), but Ejesta was pretty easy, so I wouldn't expect it to be training for hard 5.8. P2 was amazing though.
I wouldn't tell anyone whose max difficulty is 5.8 that anything of the grade is easy.
When I got on the route I had little wide experience and I found it very challenging. Maybe my wide was more dialed by the time I got on BB? In any case, I'm sure you knew your ow, so it felt like 5.8 to you.
My point is, it's far better to learn it at the crags than on the BB. And if the original poster thinks that one pitch will get him dialed, then either he's right and a quick learner, or well, he's wrong and will learn about being wrong the way that I always do...
Also...No wonder Reg. Route p2 on Reids seemed soft for 9...being 8 and all. I highly recommend the 5.6 start variation. Very wild for 5.6.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Oct 1, 2004, 2:54 AM
Post #16 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: My guide shows 3... |
|
|
|
|
megableem
Oct 1, 2004, 2:57 AM
Post #17 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2004
Posts: 160
|
.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Oct 1, 2004, 2:59 AM
Post #18 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: When I got on the route I had little wide experience and I found it very challenging. Maybe my wide was more dialed by the time I got on BB? In any case, I'm sure you knew your ow, so it felt like 5.8 to you. |
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Oct 1, 2004, 3:03 AM
Post #19 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
In reply to: In reply to: When I got on the route I had little wide experience and I found it very challenging. Maybe my wide was more dialed by the time I got on BB? In any case, I'm sure you knew your ow, so it felt like 5.8 to you. It didn't really seem wide to me, but my hands are bigger than yours. Maybe one knee jam, and one hand stack. I climbed it after Chingando, way off to the left, and even the 5.8 top of Chingando was much harder (scary too, since I had no pro that fit up there).
Yeah, I remember it being a small bit of 3.5 camalot (that's my big oh sh!t rattely fist) and then #4 for most of the second pitch...That's a knee and bloody ankles sized for me.
I agree about the top of Chingando being way stiffer especially if you're feeling kinda gnarly from the fun below, but the fact that you were on it, kinda illustrates my point. :wink:
You have to start somewhere...Better Ejesta, Bishops Terrace, and Keystone Corner than Chingando or Braille Book, IMO.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Oct 1, 2004, 3:04 AM
Post #20 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: I'd say it isn't. Church Bowl Chimney to Bishop's Terrace?? Not too likely.
In reply to: From the Terrace on top of Church Bowl Chimney, make a tricky move up into a group of trees. Traverse to the right across dirt hummocks...
He also mentions the variation that is more popular today.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Oct 1, 2004, 3:06 AM
Post #21 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
Brilliant! Don't see much dirt hummock crossings recommended in the crags selects these days. I love to read what Roper has to say about a climb after I've done it.
|
|
|
|
|
bruceb
Oct 1, 2004, 3:31 AM
Post #22 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2004
Posts: 23
|
If you're in the meadows you may enjoy SouthEast Buttress of Cathedral Peak 5.6, South Crack 5.8 (some runout on easier pitches), Tenya Peak 5.5, Golfers route 5.7 (not long but it's a must do 5-star), The regular route on Fairview 5.9 (only one move of 5.9 on 1st pitch) which will give you an opportinity to climb steeper stone like you asked about. If you're all solid on 5.8, maybe Mathess Crest class IV (recommended only if the three of you are comfortable simulclimbing 5.6) This is one of the best routes in the universe. West Crack 5.9 also has only one move of 5.9 on the 1st pitch and offers a steep 5.8 jug haul and lots of cool knob infested crack climbing on the 2nd and 3rd pitch.
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Oct 1, 2004, 4:40 AM
Post #23 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
I would suggest Salathe' Wall. Multi-pitch, nothing harder than 5.8 and some clean aid, and not nearly as crowded as the Nose.
Good stuff, especially if you like wyde cracks. Enjoy!
Brutus
|
|
|
|
|
megableem
Oct 1, 2004, 4:42 PM
Post #24 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2004
Posts: 160
|
.
|
|
|
|
|
oafy
Oct 1, 2004, 4:47 PM
Post #25 of 29
(3021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2004
Posts: 102
|
Royal arches Direct, one of the most fun you'll have in the valley. , Long and sustained, eats gear most of the time. Anyways a couple others, the first pitch of Jam Crack right near the falls is fun its a 5.7 Hand jam, great for beginners. Anyways climb hard and have fun
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
