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lambone
Sep 29, 2004, 10:17 PM
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I duct tape my headlamp into the clips on my helmet. Keeps it from ever coming out without removing the tape.
speaking of duct tape. here is my SToTD:
ALWAYs carry a roll of duct tape (a skinny roll) on the rack when leading. You never know when an edge needs to be taped or retaped. I have even stuffed tape in corner roof cracks to keep the rope from sliding in and getting wedged. Duct Tape...crucial. Tear down old shit...but don't litter.
Take a second to hook your bro or bro-ette up with some tape on that edge.
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diesel___smoke
Sep 30, 2004, 5:50 AM
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In reply to: Diesel Smoke, Spach hauling seems sketchy to me only because one person is directly attatched to the haul rope (with a back up of course) so IF something did happen to the hauler...that guy would be essentialy f'cked in the ass. I don't see how it makes it any saver as it is the same set up as a regular haul but with the 2nd clipped to the slack of the haul line. That is if we are talking about the same thing?
In short, it's because a haul device would first either fail at the cam, damage/destroy the rope, or a combination of both. It would be practically impossible to break the pulley of a haul device, and would likely take a deliberate act to do so. Therefore having someone spacehauling would be safer and less like for the cam to fail or damage the rope. It's only really prevelant under heavy loads, which is the only situation you'd spacehaul anyway.
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lambone
Sep 30, 2004, 6:02 AM
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ah, ok yeah I'll buy that...
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diesel___smoke
Sep 30, 2004, 6:57 AM
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I'm sorry, would you like me to explain it more?
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iamthewallress
Sep 30, 2004, 4:49 PM
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SToD
If you are rapping down on your fixed lead line to free a bag (or rapping down it for any reason for that matter) triple check to make sure that you are not on the short end of the rope. Pay attention to the end of your rope, and keep a hand below the Gri Gri so that you can feel the end of the rope come up if you're not able to look at it. If it's dark or clustered, and there's quite a bit of spare out, it can be easy to botch this. Nearly lost someone close to me this me this way...
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lambone
Sep 30, 2004, 5:00 PM
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yikes, yeah...that's a bad one.
I saw a technique that looked pretty smart this past weekend. a german guy rapping his fixed line on the Leaning Tower with a figure 8 rappel device has his Petzl Jumar attached to the rope (and himself via daisy). He had this above the rappel device with tha cam open, and a biner through the holes to "fix" the jumar to the rope. If he were to get out of control a quick thumb flick would stop his descent.
I don't ussualy do this when rapping fixed lines with a gri-gri...but with a regular device, probly not a bad idea.
When i'm rapping a standard doubled rappel line I'll often use a kliemheist knot around the brake end of the rope clipped to my leg loop. It acts as a second brake hand and is easy to release when weighted.
My SToTD,
Use a Mamute SuperSafe, Yates Wall Rope, or Edlewise Stratos rope for leading on walls. They each pass the UIAA edge test. Just a little extra security. Goes well with yetsredays duct tape tip. Think of it as cheap life insurance.
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lambone
Oct 1, 2004, 4:22 PM
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SToTD,
well sort of a saftey tip...
Don't bother clipping really manky fixed gear, like rusty pins with broken eyes or freyed copperheads....undles there is a definite possibility of landing on a ledge if you fall...cause if you do fall that gear will likely just break leaving you with no placement options and a major renovation project.
Tip #2
Never run it out straight off your belayers herness. always get a good first piece in right away, even if it is just a biner on one of the anchor bolts. You don't want to factor 2 straight on to your buddies waist...not good.
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lambone
Oct 13, 2004, 4:12 PM
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hmmm...so you suspend it from the corners or what?
weather moving in next week...of course...right when I'm finally off work.
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lambone
Oct 13, 2004, 6:21 PM
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good advice Mike thanks, I'll have to take a look at that tonight when I reseal my fly...
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ctardi
Oct 21, 2004, 2:13 AM
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In reply to: SToD If you are rapping down on your fixed lead line to free a bag (or rapping down it for any reason for that matter) triple check to make sure that you are not on the short end of the rope. Pay attention to the end of your rope, and keep a hand below the Gri Gri so that you can feel the end of the rope come up if you're not able to look at it. If it's dark or clustered, and there's quite a bit of spare out, it can be easy to botch this. Nearly lost someone close to me this me this way...
It's also not a bad idea to tie a knot in the end of the rope, if it won't cause your rope to get stuck if it has to go through anything ;)
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iamthewallress
Oct 21, 2004, 5:52 PM
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Let's have some weather related SToD's.
I've gotten rained on a few times, but nothing that has lasted or that I wasn't able to easily bail out of, so someone else may have more informed suggestions...
Know where the watercourses are on your route, so that you can try to bivy outside of it (or the worst of it) if that is possible.
Bring a tarp or fly or something to keep a waterfall from pounding directly onto your bivy sack and to keep your sack from laying directly in a pool of water.
Put your rainsuit on before you get wet.
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coylec
Oct 21, 2004, 6:21 PM
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Be prepared for the worst weather you can imagine - eventually, it will happen.
coylec
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crotch
Oct 21, 2004, 6:26 PM
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A pair of lightweight polypropylene liner gloves don't take much room and can help keep hands functional.
Streaks of black lichen will become watercourses when it rains.
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iamthewallress
Oct 21, 2004, 6:30 PM
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In reply to: A pair of lightweight polypropylene liner gloves don't take much room and can help keep hands functional. Streaks of black lichen will become watercourses when it rains.
Hey, Crotch. We were talking about your spectacular tale on the Rainbow Wall this morning.
Does anyone have any experience bringing latex gloves help to keep your hands functioning? No insulation, but I wondered if keeping the liner dry might give enough insulation to keep you dexterous enough to bail?
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iamthewallress
Oct 22, 2004, 12:11 AM
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In reply to: SToTD If your portaledge doesn't have a grommeted hole in the center of the bed, make one there. Same with the bottom of your haul bag. Economical grommet kits can be found at home improvement, hardware and some craft stores.
I'm thinking more than before that the extra dough spent to get the dry bag closure on my haul bag was money well speant...
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iamthewallress
Oct 22, 2004, 12:27 AM
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pmyche...I've tossed a few trophies your way throughout this thread, but I wanted to post a thanks for sharing your experience and these great tips.
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lambone
Oct 25, 2004, 4:44 PM
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Bring a cell phone or motorola walkie talkie on the wall. There is a chance better communication with YOSAR might have saved the poor Japanesse climbers last week.
If you go up the Nose knowing a storm is coming, better beat it to the top, or retreat. Watever you do...don't hang out on Camp 6.
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iamthewallress
Oct 25, 2004, 5:58 PM
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In reply to: (AT&T works pretty well on EC & WC).
AT&T old skool digital...The fancy ones that let you take pictures and play the Sims won't work.
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bill413
Oct 25, 2004, 6:21 PM
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In reply to: Does anyone have any experience bringing latex gloves help to keep your hands functioning? No insulation, but I wondered if keeping the liner dry might give enough insulation to keep you dexterous enough to bail?
My experience with latex gloves as windblockers was that they tend to slightly restrict circulation in the hands. So, they made my hands colder than if I hadn't had them on.
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iamthewallress
Oct 25, 2004, 6:32 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Does anyone have any experience bringing latex gloves help to keep your hands functioning? No insulation, but I wondered if keeping the liner dry might give enough insulation to keep you dexterous enough to bail? My experience with latex gloves as windblockers was that they tend to slightly restrict circulation in the hands. So, they made my hands colder than if I hadn't had them on.
I was thinking more about keep water directly off your skin (or liners), and not so much about the wind. Anyone? Beuhler?
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lambone
Oct 25, 2004, 8:31 PM
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In reply to: PS: Glad you're in one piece, bone - looks like it was a total wash for ya. Happy travels...
Thanks, naw...not a total wash...hooked up with a partner for a Skull Queen push.
Second SToTD,
Don't let your loop dangle way below you into the flakes when cleaning. Could potentialy be bad for your ropes and cause yuou to have to jug the pitch twice.
Always bring two ropes incase you must bail.
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iamthewallress
Oct 25, 2004, 8:40 PM
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In reply to: Always bring two ropes incase you must bail.
Don't experiment w/ an ultra skinny retreival line for the first time when you actually need it to retreat.
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justsendingits
Oct 26, 2004, 1:42 AM
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I duct tape the sleeves on my suit or jacket when I HAVE to climb in the rain.
Also a sponge can do wonders inside the portaledge in a storm.
Also a sock tied around the rope near your tie in point helps soak up the water wicking in.
A dependble stove is always nice
I will be climbing Mt. Hooker this winter and read somewhere about double dry treated ropes, anyone know who makes them?
Or can you recomend a rope that does not ice up as much as most??
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iamthewallress
May 4, 2005, 5:55 PM
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'tis the season once again, and since there are lots of good tech tips happening in the Tips and Tricks thread, I thought I'd bump the Safety Tip thread and see if anyone has anything new to learn me before I try standing in aiders again this year.
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epic_ed
May 4, 2005, 8:54 PM
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I just re-read through this thread -- great info! Thanks to everyone, especially Mike, for their tips and tricks.
Ed
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