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Best crags in the south
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joshy8200


Oct 29, 2004, 5:31 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
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Ohh...another website you might want to check for more information on NC climbing would be carolinaclimbers.org. You can get more input from locals on there.


superdiamonddave


Oct 29, 2004, 8:05 PM
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Yeah....now that's what I'm talking about! See those sweet horizontal incut jugs? That's what I am looking for, cause over here they all go straight up! What's the deal with pro in general; runout, bomber, sketchy? And anyone know what guidebooks I should get my mitts on? One's that cover the classics at a number of different crags would probably be fine. Once I get an idea of rocktype and quality things will become pretty clear. And what about Arkansas? Just read a review of Sam's and that place looks sick. And if any of y'all ever come out this way to climb and need anything pm me. Yose, Bishop and Josh are just a few hours from my humble little abode.
A four star route in Arkansas would have to be "Right to Flight" aka "The Nose". It is located at Mt. Magazine, Ark and is a 5.9+ overhanging all trad jug fest with horizontal cutters. A definate "must do" and one of my favorite routes...You'll love the diving board!

I believe there are pics of rrrAdam climbing it in the Arkansas section of RC.Com.


Partner j_ung


Oct 29, 2004, 9:25 PM
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Re: Best crags in the south [In reply to]
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In reply to:
What's the deal with pro in general; runout, bomber, sketchy? And anyone know what guidebooks I should get my mitts on?

Dear beta whore :P, most of the steep routes in NC are pretty well-protected. All those incut letterbox slots eat cams greedily! Check out Shull and Lambert's select guide.

http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/searchproducts.cfm

BTW, what time of year are you headed out here? That does make a difference.


kaylinr


Oct 29, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Re: Best crags in the south [In reply to]
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Just thought I'd throw another vote in for Horseshoe Canyon if you come through Arkansas. Miles of beautiful bomber sandstone cliffs. $5 a day to climb, and so worth it. I think they have somewhere in the vicinity of 300 bolted routes with some good trad cracks in between. 5.6 to 5.13 so something there will challenge you. And when its all said and done you can stay in a cabin onsite and relax in the hot tub, or drive 3 miles down the road and camp on the buffalo river.

Kaylin R.


blindfrogguy


Oct 30, 2004, 5:02 PM
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I MUST put a vote in for Sams Throne as well as Cave Creek, if you're going to be in the Buffalo River area. Both places cost 5 dollars less than HCR. :lol:

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