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dutyje
Oct 24, 2004, 3:58 AM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 727
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As a married weekend warrior with an 8 month old son, I do 80-90% of my climbing in the gym. When outside, I stick to sport routes. In the gym, I lead about 1/3 of my routes. In my entire (short) history of climbing, it has never even crossed my mind to use a bolt or draw to climb. Although I have used them on occasion in the gym to aid my swing back to the wall on a failed top-rope attempt.
I don't know why.. the thought just never enters my head in that moment of panic. There have been (rare) occasions where I've used an "out" hold to back off a move. Outdoors, I've nearly pulled muscles downclimbing from a bolt where I couldn't find a decent clipping stance. It never occurs to me to place and/or grab a draw. I can't explain why this is, but I think it's just been programmed into my head that I'm "rock" (or "plastic") climbing.. I only consider placing any part of my body on the surface that is meant to be climbed.
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drfelatio
Oct 24, 2004, 5:47 AM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Sep 16, 2004
Posts: 475
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That degloving was nice but I've seen worse. In my EMT textbook they have a nice pic of a guy involved in an assembly line accident. Imagine being able to put your whole hand in the bolt hole and then falling. Now THAT'S a degloving!
Also better to stick your finger through the bolt than sticking the bolt through your finger I always say!!! :lol:
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get_ur_rox_off
Oct 29, 2004, 3:10 AM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Oct 27, 2004
Posts: 23
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In reply to: I'm not suggesting you use those hangers as holds, cuz you'll get hurt, but forget anyone who gives you grief for 'sinning'. If they were just worried about your safety, say thank you and use your judgement. Ethics are personal so long as your actions don't affect others (read: hold chipping is wrong period, pulling on a draw doesn't hurt anyone), climb the way you want to.
Well it does affect the climbing gym when they have an injury like degloving a finger. It reflects badly on the gym. Witnesses to the accident will be turned away from climbing. I think that it's my duty to tell someone if they're belaying wrong if I think that the climber is in danger of falling. It not only affects that gym as far as insurance, it will affect every gym across the country! On a more selfish note, if they close I lose my membership! :?
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dlintz
Oct 31, 2004, 2:47 AM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
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Bad climber, no biscuit.
My friend knew a guy who knew someone who saw a toproping gymbie use an off-route foot jib once, the jib was very slick and the climber fell at least 2 feet due to an inattentive belayer. As the climber fell he slapped for yet another off-route two handed jug. Unfortunately he couldn't hold the jug which completely severed both hands. Not wanting to look like a pansy in front of the other climbers he called down to his belayer, "I'm okay, let me see if I can finish this out."
Hooking the mangled remains of his forearms onto the flat edges and tricky sidepulls he slowly made his way up the orange taped route. A mere two moves from the top and pumping out fast he slipped on a blood covered sloper (yes, an off-route sloper). His foot came off so quickly he was pitched forward into the wall. His head thumped soundly against the faux granite surface resulting in a subdural hemmorrhage. His belayer, not wanting his friend to look like a pansy either, held him tight near the top of the wall. The belayer calmly told shocked onlookers, "He's okay, he'll wake up and finish it out."
15 minutes later the belayer reluctantly lowered his dead friend. So, there you have it, a perfectly good reason not to use ANYTHING off route. It's a sin and you're probably going to hell just like the poor handless chump in my story. Happy Halloween. 8^)
d.
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thewyseclimber
Oct 31, 2004, 3:26 AM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 179
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Oh man I was there when this gym accident happened! Honestly...couldn't even finish the route...pansy.
I too have numerous stories from my friend who knew a guy that knew someone. It seems we have similar acquaintances. Those are always the worst stories, too...
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rock_junkie
Oct 31, 2004, 8:19 AM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Oct 6, 2004
Posts: 172
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You did sin, but its OK since you didn't loose your finger. But more importantly you sould have just fallen, you cant just start half way through a crux, you nned to do the whole thing. This will help you in the long run.
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rocks4jules
Oct 31, 2004, 8:23 AM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 287
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:( It's bad enough cheating like that on outdoor, but to do that indoor is a mortal sin!!! Sorry, but we're all just concerned about your fingers :wink: !
I bet you won't do that again, eh?
Jules
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