Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Bent Carabiners
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clmbnski


May 12, 2002, 2:26 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2002
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Bent Carabiners
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Im just putting together a rack and want to save money by using the carabiners off my quickdraws. I see no reason why bentgate carabiners cannot be used for trad as long as they connect the runner to the rope and are not backcliped, but I have never seen anybody using them. Is there a reason not to use bentgate carabiners when climbing trad?


mr_gondola


May 12, 2002, 3:09 PM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2002
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Bent Carabiners [In reply to]
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I've used bent gate as the rope end of my draws when trad climbing. I don't see a problem with it, same basic idea as sport draws... only there is a piece of pro in the rock instead of a bolt.


stevematthys


May 12, 2002, 5:44 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
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Bent Carabiners [In reply to]
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i just use bd oval biners, pretty cheap and fairly storng


Partner iclimbtoo


May 12, 2002, 6:22 PM
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Registered: Feb 10, 2002
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Bent Carabiners [In reply to]
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nothing is wrong with using bentgates. I do it all the time and all my buddies do to. We're poor college students, so we don't have money to get individual biners for all of our pro. Just make sure that you inspect your biners well after use, just like all the rest of your equipment.


bmgard


May 12, 2002, 9:46 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2002
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Bent gates are fine in trad climbing. Just like in sport make sure they are on the rope side of the sling or quickdraw and not back clipped. I always cary several quickdraws and 24"-48" slings with one wiregate and one bentgate already hung. I can't think of anyone i climb with that doesn't do the same.


dustinap
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Jun 1, 2002, 12:54 AM
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I wouldn't recommend using BD ovals however. The open gate strength is very low. They are also heavy.


crackaddict


Jun 1, 2002, 3:12 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2000
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Bent gates are fine I have them on all my cams and have never had a problem with them.


sparky


Jun 2, 2002, 2:04 AM
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Registered: May 31, 2002
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bent gates are useable in trad but don't spend extra money on a bent gate when an oval for half the price will do just fine


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