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liquidshadow111
Nov 26, 2004, 3:10 AM
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I have never lead climbed before, but I was just wondering what the correct way to fall is. also, how do you belay a lead climber?
thanks
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kobaz
Nov 26, 2004, 4:18 AM
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Asking for tips on better belaying is one thing, but asking how to belay is another, and it's one that should not be asked on an internet forum. Seek advice from a local experienced climber.
To answer your question about falling. My mentor told me to fall 'cat-like'. Have your arms and legs loose and not locked out straight, don't tense up, and don't try and hold onto anything while your falling (although you can grab the rope just above the tie-in knot on your harness to keep yourself upright).
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ctardi
Nov 26, 2004, 4:50 AM
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Fall Downwords.
Belay Properly.
Take a lead Climbing Course.
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jdiddy
Nov 26, 2004, 5:30 AM
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Last time I counted there was 1,000,218 threads about this stuff. Search away.
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kafish
Nov 26, 2004, 6:14 AM
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Im skeptical to actually give advice here because these aren't the types of things that can be learned over the internet. I mean I can tell you some do's and do nots but then i might just be giving you a false sense of confidence. Experience is the best teacher and since you don't have much find a person that will take you under their wing.
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mendou
Nov 26, 2004, 6:47 AM
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In reply to: Last time I counted there was 1,000,218 threads about this stuff. Search away.
No dude! you are wrong!
there was 1,000,219.... count again!!! :lol:
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overlord
Nov 26, 2004, 4:51 PM
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not much you can do really.
if its a slab (less than vertical) try to run backwards. not try to recapture your footing or youll flip (wich is REALLY bad). if you cant do it, try not to get flipped at least and accept the scrapes in good grace as a part of your learning process.
on a face (about vertical) DONT jump bacwards. if you do youll be slammed back into the wall. not good. better some scrapes than broken ankles.
if its an overhang, pray you have a good belayer and enjoy the ride. in case the bealyer isnt that good be prepare to get slammed somewhat. think like a cat, absorb the shock with your arms/legs and try to keep your head off the rock.
but the most important aspect of a fall is how youre prepared for it. try not to be "inside" rope (that when the rope runs around the back of your leg) or you risk being flipped over. the key is moving your legs around the rope at all times even if it feel strange at first.
another thing to consider is wich way the last biner gate is facing if youre traversing. it should be facing in the opposite direction of your movement.
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noeman
Nov 26, 2004, 5:11 PM
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I do not want to be rude, but the times I fall I knew the moves were hard but I was not thinking about falling only pulling the move...so bouldering is probably the best bet to get the feeling of pinging of something and needing to adjust your body before the landing. If you are leading and about to jump off, I think that maybe you should really consider learning to downclimb out of those situations, if not and you are runout you could really be in for a world of hurt.
Maybe I look at it in a old school light, but I prefer to downclimb to a rest before seeing if the bolt, my protection or anything else will hold the fall. Why take an unneccessary fall?
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rendog
Nov 26, 2004, 6:12 PM
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In reply to: Why take an unneccessary fall?
'cause it's fun....duh!
I'm routinely jumping off clean air climbs just for the hell of it just to feel the air rushing by and feeling of weightlessness.
this is provided of course my gear/bolt eitc is in good shape and my belayer knows what they are doing. I do it mostly just to remind myself that clean falls are not scary
as for you question about belaying, going to have to go with the crowds on this. the internet is not a good place to be asking questions like that man. we could tell you till hte cows some home, but the best way to learn is from another climber in person so you can be shown not told. I'm really not trying to be a dick by withholding "vauluable information", but just getting you out with someone who know's what they are doing.
just my $.02 worth
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perozee
Nov 29, 2004, 11:18 AM
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What Overlord said and please get an experienced climber.
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nevenneve
Nov 30, 2004, 7:00 PM
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Beware of the comp belay.
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nevenneve
Nov 30, 2004, 7:01 PM
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Beware of the comp belay.
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j_ung
Nov 30, 2004, 7:03 PM
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Oh, look! I have a RATE button today! Sweet!
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noeman
Nov 30, 2004, 8:49 PM
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Your signature shot is sick!!!
Getting it on!
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jt512
Nov 30, 2004, 10:45 PM
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jt512 has locked this thread.
Reason:
In reply to: Asking for tips on better belaying is one thing, but asking how to belay is another, and it's one that should not be asked on an internet forum. Seek advice from a local experienced climber. |
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falling
