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narz
Jun 5, 2002, 7:55 PM
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Done plenty of rappelling with rope doubled from bomber fixed anchors. Just wondering about single rope rappels. Especially when there are no fixed anchors. First of all...If there is a fixed anchor, how do I set up a single rope rappel and still get my rope back. Ive seen pics of people with the rope tied to the anchor but of course, If you dont plan on being back at the anchor, I dont understand how this works. Also, if there are no fixed anchors, is there a stepwise process to setting anchors up...like first look for a horn or something to sling if nothing then piton...etc. etc. Any help in this area would be very much appreciated.
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farmerc
Jun 7, 2002, 4:07 AM
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For Rapelling, from an anchor you don't plan to come back to (as in mountainteering or multipitch climbing), you should build an anchor with at least two parts, using either natural protection (a tree (big enough taht you can barely get your hands around, and living), a horn in the rock, and eye in the rock) or artificial protection (nuts, pitons, hexes). the two should be connected and equalized with a nylon sling that connects the two pieces of protection to a clocking carabiner. the rope should be clipped to the caribiner. If the rappel is short enough, the rope can be folded in half and the center of the rope can be clipped and you can rapell on both ropes in one rappel device. Then you can pull one side of the rope when you get to the bottom to retrieve your rope. If the rappel is much longer, you can get two ropes and tie them together with a figure eight, clip the ropes to the carabiner with the knot to one side of the Biner. When you get to the bottom pull the one rope (knot side) to retrieve the biner. The best way to learn all of this safely is to go take a toproping course after you take a rockclimbing 101 course. There you will learn to set up good anchors from which to climb and rappel. And always remember, never rappel off of one piece of pro.
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snake
Jun 7, 2002, 5:17 AM
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You can't get your rope back on a single rope rappel unless you bring your friends with you.... I know from experience. You can also try climbing back up and getting it.
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dondiego
Jun 10, 2002, 3:15 AM
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All very good advice, but as someone that has screwed up a simple rap once, I would recommend going with someone that really knows what they are doing at least once so that you can learn hands on. I'm not trying to say that you don't know what you are doing, even the most experienced of us still has much to learn. Good luck!
-Don Diego-
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pelliott
Jun 10, 2002, 3:46 AM
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You can only get your rope back on a single rope rappel if you anchor in the middle of the rope. Of course this means that you can only rap half the distance.
There is a hitch that is supposed to hold only when weighted where you actually cut one of the ropes, but I would never use it in actual practice. I shouldn't even mention it, but it is called the sheep shank. It is a dangerous knot, though and should only be used in an emergency where you have to get down and there is no other way and it is a green moon in August. In other words, don't use it. There is a picture of it on this site.
http://www.troop9.org/knots/sheep.htm
Again... Don't... Use... It...
[ This Message was edited by: pelliott on 2002-06-09 20:51 ]
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kevlar
Jun 14, 2002, 4:54 AM
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Registered: Jun 5, 2002
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all wonderful advice...but also as i was taught...tie a knot 6 feet from the bottom of your rope to keep you from rapping off the end...and if need the 6 foot section is for tieing a loop to put your foot into if you do reach the knot and need to raise yourself up a bit to get the knot free...I have not had to do this as the routes I have done have rope left at the bottom...but again this was taught to be by a climbing instructor...happy climbing an rapping
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