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live2climb
Dec 10, 2004, 9:49 PM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2004
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Me and a couple friends are taking a trip this summer to moab and indian creek. I was woundering if anyone knows the best guide books to get and how to get to the CRACK HOUSE? I am having trouble finding the house and have been traning realy hard for it and want to give it a shot please help thanks a lot.
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camhead
Dec 10, 2004, 9:51 PM
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it's kind of complicated to get to; best to just stop by Pagan Mountaineering in town to get directions.
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live2climb
Dec 10, 2004, 9:54 PM
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Thanks a lot
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slavetogravity
Dec 10, 2004, 9:55 PM
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You'll need a vehicle with 4wd, and or high clearance. That's about all I can tell you. Whey you do get there submit a map or at least submit good direction on how to get there on RC.com. Have fun, and take lots of pictures.
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andy_reagan
Dec 10, 2004, 10:50 PM
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is it bearable during the summer? I've never been but I'll be passing through this April (looking for partners, you climb in Moab and want a partner PM me :D ) and was under the impression it can get quite hot, even that early.
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angry
Dec 10, 2004, 11:20 PM
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Way too hot. The crack house is in the shade, or at least most of it is. That'll be about it. Or Indian Creek by headlamp isn't too bad either.
The Crack house is up Gemini Bridges trail. Super easy to get to and not complicated. Check with a mtn biker about where gemini bridges is. The crack house is probably 500 yards prior to the actual Gemini Bridge arch. Its right next to the road, on your right. You will need a vehicle with ground clearance. Any stock truck and some subaru's will do.
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refugee
Dec 10, 2004, 11:24 PM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2004
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crack house is like two hours from moab, and if you don't have a good car, you're outta there.
don't bother with a guidebook for indian creek craggin. There will be so many people there willing to share top ropes and beta, that you'll be fine. Just hop on stuff that looks good with anchors at the top. Be careful about getting sprayed down...wear gore tex.
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crackmd
Dec 10, 2004, 11:28 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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In reply to: is it bearable during the summer? I've never been but I'll be passing through this April (looking for partners, you climb in Moab and want a partner PM me :D ) and was under the impression it can get quite hot, even that early.
North facing walls at Indian Creek like Reservoir and 4 X 4 can actually be bearable during the summer if you happen to be there. Of course, there are far more ideal summer climbing venues than Indian Creek and Moab.
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crackmd
Dec 10, 2004, 11:34 PM
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In reply to: crack house is like two hours from moab, and if you don't have a good car, you're outta there. don't bother with a guidebook for indian creek craggin. There will be so many people there willing to share top ropes and beta, that you'll be fine. Just hop on stuff that looks good with anchors at the top. Be careful about getting sprayed down...wear gore tex.
This approach is fine if you are content to stay on high traffic crags like Supercrack, Donnelly Canyon, Battle of the Bulge and perhaps Cat Wall. These walls comprise a mere fraction of the awesomeness of the Creek so don't limit yourself. The new guidebook rocks and is well worth the money.
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crackmd
Dec 10, 2004, 11:39 PM
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In reply to: is it bearable during the summer? I've never been but I'll be passing through this April (looking for partners, you climb in Moab and want a partner PM me :D ) and was under the impression it can get quite hot, even that early.
I will be there the second two weeks of April with my girlfriend and a couple others coming at different times. You are welcome to hook up with us for some climbing if you find yourself without a partner. April temps are typically real conducive to climbing and there are always sun/shade options. It can rain, but in general that month is high probability for killer climbing.
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j_from_the_307
Dec 10, 2004, 11:42 PM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
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I wouldn't recommend Moab in the summer. If you follow the shade around, it won't be completely miserable, but you're still looking at ~100 degrees during the day (even in the shade). I've been there around the end of April and it was getting to be the end of the season. I'd say the comfortable season for IC is mid-September through mid-May. During the winter months it can get cold every now and then (below freezing most of the day), but there's always good days too.
Same with summer, there's cool days and hot days. I bet bouldering at Big Bend isn't bad because you can just go jump in the river... Summer climbing in Indian Creek will pretty much limit you to mornings/evenings or nights with full moons. You don't need to much light to inspect cam placements in the creek... it either fits or it doesn't. Most of the popular areas are south facing, so you get good light at night. I can imagine climbing there at night is pretty surreal. The desert also cools off a lot at night, 100 degree days can still have lows of 60 at night.
If you can only make time during the summer to go, then by all means do it, just don't plan to be be able to climb in the afternoons. Maybe you can handle 90 to 100 degree days, but think about stuffing your hands into sun warmed rock thats at least 100 degrees if not more...
If I get reassigned to the right fire crew I'll either be near Vernal or near Moab. If so I'd be completely game for climbing with you as well.
--J
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cjstudent
Dec 11, 2004, 12:01 AM
Post #12 of 13
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
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Blah, I went to Moab last June. Sure it is hot but are you a wimp? right, yea I'm a wimp too...some days it was so hot i about couldn't stand it. the black rubber of my shoes was burning my feet one day we made the mistake of climbing in the sun. But if you stay in the shade it is actually quiet enjoyable because, its not crowded.
My one recommendation is Castleton tower. We got on the North Chimeny and actually froze to death because it was in the shade with the wind blowing. The approach sucks but I can't wait to get back to Castleton. We climbed alot along Potash road in the afternoon. The mosquitoes were attacking in kamakazi formations but it was still some cool climbing.
I went to the "Crack house" via my Jeep but not to climb...we were just messing around 4 wheeling. If I'm not mistaken it is called "Tushner Tunnel" in the 4x4 guide but don't quote me there. Pagan Mtn has alot of good info.
I would imagine that alot of the climbing around the Colorado River might be shaded at different parts of the day. I know Wall Street was in the shade in the afternoon.
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sparky
Dec 25, 2004, 9:06 AM
Post #13 of 13
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Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 438
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The key to Moab summers is climb in the morning, drink and swim @ Mill Creek in the afternoon and climb in the evenings.
Also, desert rock IV has directions to crackhouse. it's actually way easy to find if you follow the signs. If you were willing to rally the shit out of a low clearence car you could get there ( 1 hill is tricky).
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