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bobd1953
Dec 12, 2004, 12:57 AM
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Someone chopped three new routes on the Bucksnort Slabs. These were independent lines and had some of the best climbing on the crag.
The bolts will be replaced with hard to chop glue-ins. If someone does chop these second set of bolts they will be replaced with 1 to 1 1/2 inch by 4 inch bolts.
If anyone has a issue with this matter they can contact me via this site.
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josephgdawson
Dec 12, 2004, 1:12 AM
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Good for you dude. Boltchoppers suck. If I ever see someone chopping bolts they are going to be in for it.
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lazyjammin
Dec 12, 2004, 1:17 AM
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Just curious but these routes were not bolted cracks were they? I mean it sucks anyway but to chop a regular face route is pointless. Anyway just wondering.
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g
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Dec 12, 2004, 1:32 AM
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In reply to: Just curious but these routes were not bolted cracks were they? I mean it sucks anyway but to chop a regular face route is pointless. Anyway just wondering. |
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deschamps1000
Dec 12, 2004, 1:36 AM
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Bobd-
What's the history behind these routes? Did the bolters have the first accent? What's the local bolting policy? Will the routes take other forms of protection?
Give us some info
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mistymountainhop
Dec 12, 2004, 2:09 AM
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Without getting into the whole bolting argument, what kind of route is it? if a crack has been bolted then thats just wrong.
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kcrag
Dec 12, 2004, 2:26 AM
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they are (not were) stellar slab climbs.
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one900johnnyk
Dec 12, 2004, 3:13 AM
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In reply to: Bobd- What's the history behind these routes? Did the bolters have the first accent? What's the local bolting policy? Will the routes take other forms of protection? Give us some info
haha he doesn't need to give us more information. he's clearly not asking for anyone's permission or trying to start some ethical debate here, the post is for the person chopping the bolts... if i were the chopper however this would probably only strengthen my resolve. at any rate, play nice!
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g
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Dec 12, 2004, 3:32 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Bobd- What's the history behind these routes? Did the bolters have the first accent? What's the local bolting policy? Will the routes take other forms of protection? Give us some info haha he doesn't need to give us more information. he's clearly not asking for anyone's permission or trying to start some ethical debate here, the post is for the person chopping the bolts... if i were the chopper however this would probably only strengthen my resolve. at any rate, play nice!
Alright, back to my normal self.
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timstich
Dec 12, 2004, 3:35 AM
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I'm betting that whoever chopped the bolts thinks of Bucksnort Slab as "their place." I've been there once. It reminded me of a granite dome I used to climb on a little. This crag is right below some houses, so when you top out you have to be careful not to go into someone's back yard. To start a bolt war at this particular crag is about as pointless as it gets.
So to whomever chopped the bolts, give it a rest, eh? Go battle some sportos deep in the wilderness. This is simply going to be a waste of time. There are bolted routes on that slab already. Why single out the ones Bob and Kelly did? Little fued going on, perhaps? How quaint.
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bobd1953
Dec 12, 2004, 3:45 AM
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All of the chopped routes were new, independent lines and all were slab routes with little on no natural protection. The cliff has had other rap-placed routes and routes established with aid and then free-climbed.
It is a little beyond playing nice.
The routes are going to be replaced with glue-in bolts. If they get pulled I will go to bigger and harder to pull bolt.
If someone had a issue with the routes they could at least got in touch with Kelly, Vaino or me to discuss the routes and the bolting process.
The person/persons took/stole over a $100.00 worth of bolts, hangers and anchors.
My take on it is this. I have two bosch's, three batteries and a lot of time.
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kcrag
Dec 13, 2004, 7:01 AM
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i want my money back. i'd also like the chopper to email me to coordinate a time when he/she can watch me rebolt my part of our route (1st 3 bolts of pokey minds the baby) from ground up. i'll delightfully hang from fifi hooks or optimal stances (it's thin, though) and drill with a bit clenched from my teeth. in return, i'd love to discuss what the chopper has contributed to the climbing community. new routes? trails? cleanups?
-kelly b.
edited to remove my phone number which i had included for some reason unbeknownst to me!
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guangzhou
Dec 13, 2004, 7:06 AM
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While I don't believe in bolting evrything, WAY TO GO DUDE.
In some cases, cracks do need to be bolted. If you don't believe this, I'll have you lead some of the craks in Okinawa on gear.
Eman
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omerdimsum
Dec 13, 2004, 7:43 AM
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I know who chopped your bolts. I will contact that person and have that person read this thread.
I believe the rationale was adhering to local ethics. However, Kelly B. mentioned a ground-up ethic. Were these bolts originally put in ground-up?
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bobd1953
Dec 13, 2004, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: I know who chopped your bolts. I will contact that person and have that person read this thread. I believe the rationale was adhering to local ethics. However, Kelly B. mentioned a ground-up ethic. Were these bolts originally put in ground-up?
John-your friend was wrong in chopping these routes. If he was adhering to local ethics then the routes would still be in place. Other routes on the crag have rap-placed bolts and were done from the top down. Other routes in the area have been done from the top down.
I have done some of the hardest routes (5.12 and up) ground-up in the Platte and I think I know the local style.
Please contact your friend and tell him to put the bolts back in on the route that done ground up. I am going back and doing the other the two routes ground-up. Should be a mute point after that is done.
Also tell tour friend to return the hangers that he stole off the routes so that they can be use again for the community to enjoy.
Later, Bob D
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dingus
Dec 13, 2004, 6:37 PM
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In reply to: What I though was funny was that someone who has fewer years on this earth than Bob has on the rock was questioning his ability to make that call.
What, is he god?
DMT
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olderic
Dec 13, 2004, 6:44 PM
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Dubya's got a lot of years too - doesn't seem to help him always make the right call. I don't suppose anyone knows (or cares?) who the land owner is or what they might think of thses antics? When the no climbing signs go up is it really going to matter if the bolts are in or out? Guess we'll all be winners then....
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j_ung
Dec 13, 2004, 6:52 PM
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I think one of the most prolific first ascencionists in the nation deserves the benefit of the doubt. Not that you need my approval, Bob, but do whatever you see fit. I trust it'll be in line with acceptable norms and in deference to the local community.
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bobd1953
Dec 13, 2004, 6:53 PM
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In reply to: What, is he god?
No Dingus you are. Keep up the good work and keep your deep and intense thoughts/posts comming!
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olderic
Dec 13, 2004, 7:53 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What, is he god? No Dingus you are. Keep up the good work and keep your deep and intense thoughts/posts comming!
"Posts" or "boasts"? - I get confused sometimes....
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olderic
Dec 13, 2004, 7:56 PM
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In reply to: I think one of the most prolific first ascencionists in the nation deserves the benefit of the doubt. Not that you need my approval, Bob, but do whatever you see fit. I trust it'll be in line with acceptable norms and in deference to the local community.
Ken Nichols is a prolific first ascentionist....
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g
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Dec 13, 2004, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: Dubya's got a lot of years too - doesn't seem to help him always make the right call. I don't suppose anyone knows (or cares?) who the land owner is or what they might think of thses antics? When the no climbing signs go up is it really going to matter if the bolts are in or out? Guess we'll all be winners then.... |
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omerdimsum
Dec 14, 2004, 6:21 PM
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Bob -
I now realize that, through boulderclimbing. com, you are already in 'dialogue' with the individuals.
There seem to be some valid, points of debate on that site...
Regards,
JD
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sandbag
Dec 16, 2004, 8:03 AM
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Hey Bob/Kelly,
Ill go get some pipe swingin muthaphuckers and we'll get medieval on they ass...........
:twisted:
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