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jstumpf
Dec 15, 2004, 3:35 PM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2001
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I'm going to be heading down to Bishop this weekend, and was wondering if anyone knew of and trad areas around there that might be climbable. Somethig in the 3-4 pitch moderate range would be ideal, but I'll take whatever I can get.
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jstumpf
Dec 15, 2004, 5:39 PM
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bump
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michaelmay513
Dec 15, 2004, 5:49 PM
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The Owens River Gorge is mostly sport climbing but there is some trad lines there.
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ikellen
Dec 15, 2004, 6:03 PM
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Cardinal Pinnacle has some good multipitch lines. Check out the "Bishop Area Rock Climbs" guidebook.
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mandrake
Dec 15, 2004, 6:10 PM
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Yeah, you're right about Cardinal Pinnacle, but I think the OP's trying to find out whether they're climbable NOW.
I don't know, hopefully a local will chime in.
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mungeclimber
Dec 15, 2004, 8:24 PM
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Buttermilk Country has some trad lead lines. In the sun you will probably be fine.
Alabama Hills, So of Bishop, has a load of Sport and some trad.
Fossil Falls, So of Alabama Hills, has a bunch of trad.
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boltdude
Dec 16, 2004, 4:24 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Pine Creek, PSOM Pinnacle area, is fine from sun up until about noon/1pm, when it goes into the shade and you freeze. 1-3 pitch routes, 5.7-10a, low angle and mostly runout. Email me if you want details on old and new routes, since there are no topos published. Think Royal Arches type climbing but with crumbly flakes.
Pine Creek, Elderberry Buttress, is good this time of year when it's warm, but you have to move fast - 4-5 pitches of "4th class" (junky to 5.6) approach to 5-pitch routes, one 5.9 crack (offwidth/chimney) and slabs 5.9-10d (bad bolts). Could be snow/damp patches on the approach pitches.
Wheeler Crest, Rabbit Ears - esp. Smokestack - fine when warm, friends just did it on Sunday (then did Towering Inferno, a cool link-up for short days!). That's 7 pitch or so 5.9 crack and slab, 2 hr approach up steep mountainside, bit tricky finding the approach road.
Buttermilks crags - one pitch routes, generally like lower quality Josh routes, few other than locals do these, mostly covered in the "Bishop Rock" guide by Moynier & Lewis. Actually some gems, email me if you're interested. Many routes are trad face routes (pro, bolts maybe every once in a while).
Owens - actually a good selection of quality trad routes, some with good pro wherever you want, but many require well developed pro skills (slick rock, crumbly rock, weird pods, pockets, etc). Owens is the most reliable place in the winter for trad in the Bishop area.
Cardinal Pinnacle – forget it, covered in snow and ice. Friends climbed there a couple weeks ago as training for Patagonia.
If it snows big again, forget Pine Creek & Wheeler Crest stuff until it has a chance to melt off and dry off - which doesn't always happen quickly.
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