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yanqui
Dec 14, 2004, 8:35 PM
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In reply to: Goodro's in BCC. It's a neat piece of rock.
You'd have to go far and wide to find a better 10c handcrack than that.
I'm going to nominate No Way Jose (5.13d). No I haven't done this. And I'm not likely to do it anytime in the future. I just feel like spraying about my ex-roommate, fellow mathematician and good friend Jose Pereyra who died an untimely death in Potrero Chico. No Way Jose is perhaps the hardest crack climb sent in pure style in the world (by pure style I mean: from the ground up, placing all gear on lead). Has anyone repeated it?
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leinosaur
Dec 14, 2004, 8:53 PM
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Little Creature Crack (5.8), Echo Dome, Wichita Mountains
berkly:
In reply to: Wish the climb went on for another 5 pitches
spoons:
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 14, 2004, 9:24 PM
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In reply to: I'm going to nominate No Way Jose (5.13d). No I haven't done this. And I'm not likely to do it anytime in the future. I just feel like spraying about my ex-roommate, fellow mathematician and good friend Jose Pereyra who died an untimely death in Potrero Chico. No Way Jose is perhaps the hardest crack climb sent in pure style in the world (by pure style I mean: from the ground up, placing all gear on lead). Has anyone repeated it?
Wish I knew. But here's to Jose just the same.....
***
I don't know if it's been nominated yet, but the Beast Flake on Cathedral Ledge deserves a mention. A hands/fist crack that exposed is hard to find.
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 14, 2004, 9:26 PM
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...I consider it a single pitch because it's a single pitch variation of Recompense.
Oh whatever. I misread the question :roll:
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crackmd
Dec 14, 2004, 11:53 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Goodro's in BCC. It's a neat piece of rock. You'd have to go far and wide to find a better 10c handcrack than that.
I disagree. You could go one canyon over and do Mexican Crack. You could also drive a four hours to Moab where there are hundreds of better handcracks. Goodro's is a good climb, but the state of Utah has many superior handcracks.
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yanqui
Dec 15, 2004, 6:00 PM
Post #81 of 117
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Goodro's in BCC. It's a neat piece of rock. You'd have to go far and wide to find a better 10c handcrack than that. I disagree. You could go one canyon over and do Mexican Crack. You could also drive a four hours to Moab where there are hundreds of better handcracks. Goodro's is a good climb, but the state of Utah has many superior handcracks.
Mexican Crack is 10a (not 10c) and mostly a slab. Except for the short 20 foot traverse at the end, it's not really much of a crack. So why you think it's a better 10c hand crack than Goodro's sure has me beat.
Climbing in Moab is nice, but I remember picking up large rocks in the camp area and crumbling them to dust with my bare hands. There's something about SOLID rock that inspires me. If I was a fledgling 5.10 climber I'd personally prefer to climb at Storm Mountain and leave the short, awkward bulge of 'Incredible Hand Crack' to people who think it's worthwhile to stand in line to climb a crack because the name says it's good.
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crackmd
Dec 15, 2004, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Goodro's in BCC. It's a neat piece of rock. You'd have to go far and wide to find a better 10c handcrack than that. I disagree. You could go one canyon over and do Mexican Crack. You could also drive a four hours to Moab where there are hundreds of better handcracks. Goodro's is a good climb, but the state of Utah has many superior handcracks. Mexican Crack is 10a (not 10c) and mostly a slab. Except for the short 20 foot traverse at the end, it's not really much of a crack. So why you think it's a better 10c hand crack than Goodro's sure has me beat. Climbing in Moab is nice, but I remember picking up large rocks in the camp area and crumbling them to dust with my bare hands. There's something about SOLID rock that inspires me. If I was a fledgling 5.10 climber I'd personally prefer to climb at Storm Mountain and leave the short, awkward bulge of 'Incredible Hand Crack' to people who think it's worthwhile to stand in line to climb a crack because the name says it's good.
It sounds like your Indian Creek experience has not taken you beyond the crowded Supercrack Buttress. Venture down-canyon and you will find "crack utopia" without the lines. I have spent the last 15 years of my life seeking out splitters and always seem to end up at Indian Creek. I say let'em line up for IHC;it leaves hundreds of better cracks for the taking. Wingate sandstone is pretty darn solid bro. No it is not granite, but it is uncommon for well-placed cams (#1 Friend and larger) to fail. I have not found another crackclimbing venue where I can push my limits like I am sportclimbing. Where is Storm Mountain? Sounds intriguing.
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yanqui
Dec 15, 2004, 7:23 PM
Post #83 of 117
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In reply to: It sounds like your Indian Creek experience has not taken you beyond the crowded Supercrack Buttress. Venture down-canyon and you will find "crack utopia" without the lines. I have spent the last 15 years of my life seeking out splitters and always seem to end up at Indian Creek. I say let'em line up for IHC;it leaves hundreds of better cracks for the taking. Wingate sandstone is pretty darn solid bro. No it is not granite, but it is uncommon for well-placed cams (#1 Friend and larger) to fail. I have not found another crackclimbing venue where I can push my limits like I am sportclimbing. Where is Storm Mountain? Sounds intriguing.
Went on a couple of extended springtime trips to Supercrack buttress when I lived in Salt Lake City (1987-1994) and actually liked the place pretty good. Got spanked at first (as most newcomers do) until I managed to adapt the right mental/physical set for the sustained and uniform cracks. I even managed to pull off one or two harder routes. But I never really got smitten by desert cracks. I prefer the variety of holds and features more common on other types of rock.
Storm Mountain is where Goodro's is. When we used to climb there (pre 1992) we hardly ever saw other climbers. I suppose that's changed. There's some nice 5.9 and 5.10 trad climbs including: Creme de Shorts (5.9), a 5.9+ finger crack near Psychobabble (not in the data base and I can't remember the name), Pychostematic (5.10a), Psychobabble (5.10c) as well as Goodro's (5.10c). There are also some good 5.11 and 5.12 sport routes. Right across the road there are dozens of other cool routes, both trad and sport, including one really nice 5.10d hand crack higher up (not in the data base and I can't remember the name). All depends on what you like.
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luisag
Dec 15, 2004, 8:28 PM
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Elder crack:curbar
Time for Tea: millstone
Penny lane:smoke bluffs
middle pitch on sunblessed: back side of the chief squamish
there are soooooooo many its hard to narrow them down
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billcoe_
Jan 2, 2005, 6:28 AM
Post #85 of 117
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Smith rocks under represented?
3 favs at Smith all thinner fingers-to thin hands big or so:
Moonshine diheadral - 5.9
Sunshine diheadral - 5.11D+
Lions Jaw (?) (the 5.7 not the 5.11)
Kunza Korner - 5.10C
yeah, thats not 3, but unlike many of the stellar routes mentioned, they are 1 pitch.
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gunksgoer
Jan 2, 2005, 6:55 AM
Post #86 of 117
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easy hand and finger cracks are just soo enjoyable
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braaaaaaaadley
Jan 2, 2005, 7:20 AM
Post #87 of 117
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The three most amazing single pitch crack's I have seen are:
Oh my god dihedral 5.10C @ Old Rag
Jaws 5.9 @ NRG
Triple S 5.8(+) @ Seneca
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incogneato
Jan 2, 2005, 8:00 AM
Post #88 of 117
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Flight of the Challenger in Squampton is worthy of 34 billion stars in my books. Climbing does not get much better than that spectacular pitch.
Zap Crack too - pee your pants perfect!
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vanclimber
Jan 2, 2005, 4:49 PM
Post #89 of 117
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The Zip-Smoke Bluffs-Squamish
Laughing Crack-Smoke Bluffs-Squamish
Garfield-Comic Rocks-Furry Creek
Don
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onbelay_osu
Jan 2, 2005, 5:50 PM
Post #90 of 117
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come on and no one gives the love out to one of the best crags in the US....
Witchita Wildlife Refuge
-RA 5.11d steller granite great route
-crazy alice 5.8 moderate but fun
-Despreate Reality 5.12b one of my goals totally overhung roof crack!
and those are just off the top of my head....the witchita's are a hard mans dream come true
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harihari
Jan 2, 2005, 7:01 PM
Post #91 of 117
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In Red Rocks, two stand out--
a) Red Zinger (led on hexes by Joe Herbst in '77!)
b) The Fox
City of Rocks, Idaho:
a) Crack of Doom
b) Thin Slice (the best 10a I have ever done, anywhere, period)
Squamish:
a) Penny Lane
b) the Split Pillar pitch on the Grand Wall
c) Chimp Dip
d) Clean Crack
J-tree-- too many to mention
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cracklover
Dec 4, 2005, 2:31 AM
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I haven't done any of the other Gunks routes, but
In reply to: Gunks: Retribution 10 Nosedive 10
...are not crack routes. Not by any stretch of the imagination.
GO
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cracklover
Dec 4, 2005, 2:32 AM
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In reply to: im suprised nobody has mentioned reppy's crack yet. so i will: reppy's crack, cannon cliff
That's because it's actually not all that great. Yes, it's pure crack, which is a wonderful novelty here on the east coast, but compared to some of the other crack climbs listed here, it's pretty so-so (IMHO).
GO
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cracklover
Dec 4, 2005, 2:43 AM
Post #95 of 117
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Goodro's in BCC. It's a neat piece of rock. You'd have to go far and wide to find a better 10c handcrack than that. I disagree. You could go one canyon over and do Mexican Crack. You could also drive a four hours to Moab where there are hundreds of better handcracks. Goodro's is a good climb, but the state of Utah has many superior handcracks.
It's a great climb, but I agree.
GO
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grinspoon
Dec 4, 2005, 2:49 AM
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Grumpkin wrote: In reply to: if that is the case then Estesia in the Addirondacks
Ditto. I'm surprised no one else has mentioned Adirondack cracks. I'll add Arachnid Traction at the Creature Wall.
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cracklover
Dec 4, 2005, 3:03 AM
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This thread rocks!!! I'm taking lots of notes. Seriously.
Double Cross in J-tree was mentioned, but not Dogleg Crack. I thought DLC was great! Another moderate one pitch crack in JTree that's absolutely top shelf is Mental Physics.
I agree with whoever said Airation on Cathedral. At more moderate grades, Chicken Delight and Pine Tree Eliminate are excellent, too.
How about local favorites? My vote for best in Massachusetts goes to Tarzan at Crow Hill. Runner-up is Outside Corner at Quincy Quarries.
GO
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pt
Dec 4, 2005, 4:36 AM
Post #98 of 117
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Pressure Drop and Finger Licking Good at Lumpy Ridge
Whimsical Dreams and Vanishing Point at Turkey Rocks
Spectreman at Vedauwoo
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sentinel
Dec 9, 2005, 12:13 AM
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http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/Topos/fortress_topo_1.pdf
A geat hidden secret up onthe pass.
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sentinel
Dec 9, 2005, 12:15 AM
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http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/Topos/fortress_topo_1.pdf
Good climbing
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