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jaybird2
Dec 16, 2004, 6:24 PM
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Registered: Jul 9, 2004
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Yes, I know that I better get up early and I know that I better wear a helmet. I also know that I am a classics whore. And I know that having two ropes makes rappeling go faster. But hey, I am only gonna be there for 5 days and like the long routes. I am trying to get away with only bringing one 60M rope. Is it possible to do the following routes with said equipment:
SpaceBoyz
Estrallita
Snot Girlz
Routes up the Spires
I am also open to any other recommendations for LONG climbs in the 5.10/.11 range that can be done with one 60.
Thanks
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missedyno
Dec 16, 2004, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2001
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In reply to: Yes, I know that I better get up early and I know that I better wear a helmet. I also know that I am a classics whore. And I know that having two ropes makes rappeling go faster. But hey, I am only gonna be there for 5 days and like the long routes. I am trying to get away with only bringing one 60M rope. Is it possible to do the following routes with said equipment: SpaceBoyz Estrallita Snot Girlz Routes up the Spires I am also open to any other recommendations for LONG climbs in the 5.10/.11 range that can be done with one 60. Thanks
SpaceBoyz - there's one pitch that a 60M will barely, just barely get you to the next set of anchors on rapell
Estrallita - you can get up just fine, I've always double rope-rapelled it
Routes up the Spires - the most popular route requires a double rope rapell
Snot Girlz - haven't done
After a couple visits, we gladly bought a 70M rope just for el potrero use. Some of the single pitch routes ... you'll barely make it back down with a 60M.
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crimpme
Dec 16, 2004, 9:09 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2003
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There's nothing like rapping from four pitches up, watching as your ends get shorter and shorter - until you get to the 3rd pitch anchor and only have a single foot of rope left. Got my blood pumping. (climb: Jungle Mountaineering, 60m rope)
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alpnclmbr1
Dec 16, 2004, 9:22 PM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
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Bring two ropes and do El Sendero Diablo (devils path) 6 pitch 11c
This route is steep and clean. Same with the raps.
Mental crux is the rap. You have to singleline back clip a route on rappel in order to get to the next anchors.
What little I did of the other long routes seem like choss with dangerous raps. The one pitch routes are steller. Careful about being dropped. It seems to happen a lot.
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peterw
Dec 21, 2004, 4:58 AM
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Registered: Sep 3, 2004
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Estrallita is fine with one 60m, you actually rap down the backside.
Space Boyz is fine with one 60m, we dragged up a second one and left it at the top of pitch 4.
Spires I recall require two or one 70m and are excellent.
I agree with doing El Sendero Diablo, classic, classic. The rap is fine, just skip the very last pitch which is 5.7. Then rap straight down and look for the anchors under the small roof. (The 10 pitch is a sandbag).
Moto/Outrage are excellent.
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timstich
Dec 21, 2004, 5:07 AM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
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You can rappel from the Spires with one 60m rope, but you have to do two raps. The rope stretch will get you down off the side of the saddle facing Pangea. I've climbed it at least two times like that.
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potreroed
Jan 3, 2005, 9:49 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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Don't listen to alpineclimber 1. The long routes are pretty damn clean compared to how they were before being bolted and cleaned. Having said that I should add that rock fall can happen anywhere here at any time--I've had some close calls while just hiking around under the walls!!
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stl_climber
Oct 10, 2005, 2:44 PM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2005
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So, cringe and pick-up a third rope (70m) or take my two 9.7mm 60m down? I am flying but can check bags so not to worried about space.
Any good trad routes near EPC?
Chris
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justsaynototake
Oct 10, 2005, 3:24 PM
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Registered: Mar 10, 2005
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I did snot girls with one 70meter rope. I saw some guys doing it with two 60's which made some of the repels WAY EASIER. There is one pitch (#5 maybe) that is a sweet traverse but on the way down it is a bit of a pain to get back to the belay station. Two 60's lets you rap through this tight spot. Sweet climb though, I can't wait to get back. Enjoy
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