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dirtineye
Jan 28, 2005, 5:18 PM
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Sorry if I was impolite, but as healyj and I think some others pointed out, it's an attempt to keep your eyes blue as opposed to vacant.
I really hate reading those accident reports that go like this: Two pieces pulled and so-and-so was seriously injured (or dead).
I'm sure you are a nice guy, most people you meet climbing are. Sometimes the internet leads all of us to come off less favorably than we do in person, I know I'm guilty.
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dirtineye
Jan 28, 2005, 5:50 PM
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To adapt a bit of programming lore, "If it was hard to place, it should be hard to clean." HEHE. Not really, but it sounds good.
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 28, 2005, 6:12 PM
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In reply to: Sorry if I was impolite, but as healyj and I think some others pointed out, it's an attempt to keep your eyes blue as opposed to vacant. I really hate reading those accident reports that go like this: Two pieces pulled and so-and-so was seriously injured (or dead). I'm sure you are a nice guy, most people you meet climbing are. Sometimes the internet leads all of us to come off less favorably than we do in person, I know I'm guilty.
Apology accepted. And you are right on all counts. Although a lot of the things brought up I knew that I was supposed to do, this thread gave me a better understanding of the reasoning behind it. A while (not sure how long), I posted something about whether rc.com was useful or just entertainment. Although most of it is purely entertainment, I do come away with some important information. A little here and a little there is important to keep us safe. You mentioned that the internet sometimes makes us appear less favorable, well, it also sometimes makes us appear less bright.
Happy climbing!
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healyje
Jan 28, 2005, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: When I do clip directly I tend to set the hell out of the nut (nut tool required for extraction). Ditto. Also, and I think this is important, I'll use a locking 'biner on the piece.
I agree with Dingus about not hesitating to clip directly into a wired piece with just a single biner; but when I do clip directly into a piece of pro, I usually do it with 2 biners, not one; but, hell, if you're running low on them, you're running low. With regard to specifically using a locker in this scenario - it might be somewhat reassuring, but I don't believe it is at all necessary.
Also, I rarely if ever "set" my pro at all, even in this type of instance unless I'm sure rope is going to jack it around.
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dingus
Jan 29, 2005, 1:18 AM
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In reply to: Also, I rarely if ever "set" my pro at all, even in this type of instance unless I'm sure rope is going to jack it around.
I've always respected you gentle nutters. It demonstrates a cool mind, a calm, calculating demeanor. Cerebral even.
My nut craft is much more animal bro. I sniff the crack, probe it with my digits, and grunting, I root among the shiney things hanging off my collar. I get that nut in there and whining, I yank, sometimes soft, sometimes hard, panic hard, ohgodpleasedontlethisnutfailphluuuuzzzzeeedontlethisnutliftoutwheniclimbaboveitohpleeeeeeze!
Now I know this is happened to you cause it has happened to us all, ya boldly run it out up some easy shit and then make a few decent moves into the business. You pause and carefully place that nut and clippity clip on you go. Despite all your care you accidently kick the draw on the nut and lift it out slick as you please, mid crux, facing the lovelies, eh?
That's about 5.4 for me but you know what I mean.
Flashbacks of that'll having ya paying attention to those nuts. Like a dog in my case, sniff sniff sniff yank.
DMT
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healyje
Jan 29, 2005, 7:48 AM
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In reply to: Now I know this is happened to you cause it has happened to us all, ya boldly run it out up some easy s--- and then make a few decent moves into the business. You pause and carefully place that nut and clippity clip on you go. Despite all your care you accidently kick the draw on the nut and lift it out slick as you please, mid crux, facing the lovelies, eh?
You know it! Hey, if a piece isn't inclined to just damn well sit there and cooperate; and there is no opposition - then I set it hard, as in just this side of bounce testing it. It rarely happens as again I try to never set my pro, depending instead on the placement and slingage to keep it in place. But sometimes it happens and I don't stand on ceremony.
And cleaning it - screw my second, though he has my o.k. to just leave the damn thing for fixed if it comes down to that...
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dirtineye
Jan 29, 2005, 5:55 PM
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YOu know how old climbing partners talking about each other's pro placements can sould like two old women fussing over how to take care of a baby?
Well I was with two great southern climbers once, they had climbed together for many years, and one had done a very nice crack on nothing but nuts. This crack took nuts like pancakes take butter and maple syrup. THey started out with two oppposed nuts about 9 feet off the ground (this guy was a nut meister) and just kep on going. the clmiber had placed a lot of em cause it was a new route and well, the crack just was made for nuts.
So everything was fine and the buddy was cleanign his way up the crack, saying things like, " man your nutcraft is beautiful, such mastery, very nice man.", and more of the same. Then he got to one that wouldn't just lift out. Well the silly nut not only wouldn't lift, it had been hung on, but the cleaner didn't know that yet. A moment of silence passed. THen, the bitching commenced. "Man, why do people have to set nuts so HARD? This crack is perfect, no way that nut would come out. You don't have to set em in a crack like this. I can;t beleive it..." and on and on.
Finally we told him about hanging on the nut. He didn't miss a beat. didn;t pphase him at all. That nut had been set too damned hard and we were going to hear about it. Once you get a guy on that stuff about setting nuts, you can't stop em LOL.
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piton
Jan 30, 2005, 10:02 PM
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In reply to: When I do clip directly I tend to set the hell out of the nut (nut tool required for extraction
i do this on all nut placements.
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irockclimbtoo
Jan 30, 2005, 11:39 PM
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ab
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crankingclimber
Jan 30, 2005, 11:58 PM
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Not sure if I've seen the Masters video you're talking about, (I've only seen the last two), but possbily, since the guys on those videos are usually doing something hardcore, they were climbing an R rated route, where the 6 inches or so that they save by not placing a draw on the route was worth it in an effort to keep themselves off the deck or off a ledge. Usually however it's a bad idea - real bad. The nut can be pulled out easier, and there's a lot more drag. I have done it in incredibly specific circumstances to cams a couple of times - would be very leery of doing it with a nut though, only a very specific type of placement that would work for. Just some thoughts...
Will
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