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ryan112ryan
Feb 8, 2005, 8:50 AM
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hey, i stumbled upon a thread mentioning this knot and i was wondering at what point it fails at (Kn). what people use it for?
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michaelmcguinn
Feb 8, 2005, 9:06 AM
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I have used this hitch alot. It has great holding power. The kind of rope has an effect on when the hitch will slip. Not sure about a KN at all. I have been taught in a guides course a few years ago that you can belay with a garda and be safe. Make two and you can belay two followers at a time. Yes, it is an auto locker from above.
Use it.
MM
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dirtineye
Feb 8, 2005, 4:41 PM
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It's for hauling and ascending.
Belaying with it would be a problem if you wanted to lower, the garda acts like a one way ratchet.
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pico23
Feb 9, 2005, 11:18 PM
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yeah, i was messing around with the Garda when i was practicing haul system knots a few years ago. I got to thinking "gee this would be a great autoblock for belaying the second" and sure it's bomber. Problem is, you know all those threads and stories about the NOOB getting someone stuck on a reverso because they never learned how to unblock it? we'll this thing is kind of like that. It's designed for one way use, looseing it for a fairly light pack is not too much a problem but think 150lbs of climber dangling on the other end.
Anyway, I'm sure there is a method to releasing it easily but it seems like a lot of trouble for a belay. I still think the Munter hitch is the best belay from above. The only problems are it fuzzes the rope and it can kink it.
The haul system I settled on was an ATC from above with a prussik. Works like a charm for the light stuff I might have to haul and I've even used it in a non climbing situation to haul my dog (50lbs).
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lambone
Feb 9, 2005, 11:51 PM
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it's good for hauling light bags.
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davidji
Feb 10, 2005, 12:00 AM
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In reply to: I have used this hitch alot. It has great holding power. The kind of rope has an effect on when the hitch will slip. Not sure about a KN at all. I have been taught in a guides course a few years ago that you can belay with a garda and be safe. Make two and you can belay two followers at a time. Yes, it is an auto locker from above.
If you belay with this you need to make sure the knot doesn't ride up the gate side of the biners.
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lambone
Feb 10, 2005, 12:07 AM
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problem with hauling...or belaying with it is that it's nearly impossible to release when fully weighted. That's why it's best just to use it for light packs that you can muscle around...just don't get the pack stuck.
also, there is alot of friction within the knot itself wich is a disadvantage to hauling.
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slcliffdiver
Feb 10, 2005, 12:08 AM
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Read somewhere (memory blank) that it can damage the rope when under high to moderate forces through pinching. If I recall right it was around 500 lbs. Anyway whatever I saw on it was conving enough at the time and the force was low enough that I decided I wouldn't use it for belaying seconds though I like a lot with a small loop for my foot as a prussic suplement for short distances (long distances and the rope gets a bit heavy). Anyway take that for what it's worth.
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joneiche
Feb 10, 2005, 12:46 AM
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One word of warning...
Make sure to keep the rope positioned at the top of the spine. Don't let it slide over the gate because the garda will easily unclip itself from the biner. I would recommend (while on the ground) loading the rope across the nose of the biner and watching it slip over the nose and load the gate.
just a heads up.
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jimdavis
Feb 10, 2005, 5:22 AM
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You don't want to use that for anything you can't lift with 1 hand.
If you need to release it under a heavy load....you'll be building a haul system just to convert that hitch over to a munter or something. Major pain in the ass.
Cheers,
Jim
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