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Chitlins Corner ** - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.83/5 Average Rating : 4.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Rock
2
Trad.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.25/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

The HUGE corner of the area. A classic

P1: Work through the blocky start to the corner, and go strait up 'til you hit the 2b anchor (and an old hammered alluminum hex). This pitch is 5.7 and very popular, great lead. [NOTE: as of 10/2004 there was a large, loose flake about halfway up the pitch, just before Green Mtn Breakdown takes off to the right. It's possible to climb around it, with care.]

P2: Go up the corner to the roof, then move out right. Coninue to the 2b anchor.

Rappel the same as Green Mtn. Breakdown.

A recent RC.com member quetion promted me to find the history of the route name. It has had several mis-spellings and incarnations, but Chitlins, no apostraphe, and with an S is correct. Apparently Chitlins is the intestine of a pig, and is a delicacy in spain. Makes you wonder why they named it that. The fixed Hex at the belay also has a story to tell. It was found in the Tetons, and bootied for the express purpose of that belay. Apparently it was beat, and stuck in the Tetons, and some Acadia folks took one look and cried 'Well gee, wouldn't that be swell for that wide Chitlins belay!' (or something to that effect). so they pounded it out, carted it back, and pounded it in again. Been there ever since.

Submitted by: jstp on 2004-11-10
Views: 2195
Route ID: 53491

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15 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: barkandbite on 2012-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gr8

W/ML&SC

Added: 2012-07-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: wonderwoman on 2007-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars My first 10 lead

Fell on my itty bitty gray metolius, which was backed up with a green C3.

Added: 2007-09-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2007-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Superb

Others have said it, but save small gear for the roof, and a couple medium cams for after it. Really nice climb with a unique roof.

Added: 2007-05-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: acherry on 2007-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Exciting!

My most difficult trad lead to date (P1). GO did a fantastic job leading through the roof. So pumped to second P2 clean!

Added: 2007-05-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: epoch on 2006-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars ??

Fun climb. Definately bring small cams for the roof.

Added: 2006-11-13

... Read all 15 ascent notes