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Fancy Lads - 5.10c
Average Rating : 4.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 14
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock
2
bolts; chain anchors
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Description:
Sport route just right of the face under the huge roof up high, left of Black Widow dihedral. Bouldery first few sections takes you to good stances and pleasant climbing up to one of the highest first pitch belays at Draper's Bluff, under the right end of the huge roof. Get's easier as you get higher. Second pitch can be done with aid (a little awkward, but completely doable) for two or three moves, off of bolts, or as solid 12b/c. The finishing section is long, easy, and trad protected, to chain anchors. One of the more dramatic routes at Draper's Bluff. Highly recommended!!
Submitted by: jds100 on 2004-06-15
Views: 2174
Route ID: 8109
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13 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 13 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Top route at Drapers.
Redpoint of both pitches. Awesome climb. The others have the description pretty much spot on. If you climb this grade, try it, it's a fun time.
P1 - 5.10c
P2 - 5.11d
P1 - 5.10c
P2 - 5.11d
Added: 2009-02-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
2nd pitch
redpoint. callin this a 12a (if the outline is a 12a) especially if you're under 6'
Added: 2008-12-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
finally
first pitch redpoint.
Added: 2008-12-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Great Long Route!
I managed to nab a ground up (combining p1 and p2) red point of this one. Think the crux move feels harder than 11d. It's a two move wonder (11d) followed by steep and exposed climbing to the top (5.8). Bring a #2 and #3 and you're set for the trad section.
I'd rate p1 5.10c
and p2 (V3+ 5.8)
I'd rate p1 5.10c
and p2 (V3+ 5.8)
Added: 2008-04-28
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fantastic
Route has a really reachy crux move at the very bottom of the first pitch. Second pitch is even reachier off the anchors. I couldn't reach anything and aided the first couple of moves to get past the 5.12 hard section. Once you're past that it's really fun sport/trad climbing. Highly recommended.
Added: 2007-09-06
