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guangzhou


Oct 17, 2010, 6:11 AM
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Gym Floors
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I'm a climber and I spend most of my time outdoors. Like most, when I'm on a road trip, I do check out the local gym to see what they are like.

Recently, a friend of mine asked what the best material was for a gym floor. Base of the walls and the bouldering zone.

I've seen loads of stuff. What do you like best? (Commercial gym ideally)

Why?

Cheers


jakedatc


Oct 17, 2010, 1:25 PM
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my gym uses about 4" foam covered by 2" foam gymnastic flooring. then 4-5" boulder pads to move around in the boulder area


Landale


Oct 17, 2010, 7:09 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
my gym uses about 4" foam covered by 2" foam gymnastic flooring. then 4-5" boulder pads to move around in the boulder area

+1
Here are some useful links:

http://www.tiffinmats.com/rockClimbing/index.html

http://www.rockwerxclimbing.com/3231.xml


cruxstacean


Oct 17, 2010, 11:00 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
my gym uses about 4" foam covered by 2" foam gymnastic flooring. then 4-5" boulder pads to move around in the boulder area

My gym doe this too and it works pretty well.

The Front in Boise and Salt Lake use bigass pads from Asana (I think...) which works pretty good. Probably more than a foot thick - about as soft as as the quoted option with 1 pad.


djlachelt


Oct 18, 2010, 1:50 AM
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One thing to think about... I think that a significant number of gym injuries are caused by someone landing on the edge of the drag pads and turning an ankle or worse.

I prefer a bouldering area with a single thick pad throughout. Then you don't have to worry about positioning a pad in the right place, etc. Of course, this type of padding is pretty expensive.


jakedatc


Oct 18, 2010, 1:11 PM
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djlachelt wrote:
One thing to think about... I think that a significant number of gym injuries are caused by someone landing on the edge of the drag pads and turning an ankle or worse.

I prefer a bouldering area with a single thick pad throughout. Then you don't have to worry about positioning a pad in the right place, etc. Of course, this type of padding is pretty expensive.

I think gym rats learning how to position pads effectively is a valuable skill to learn if they are going to go outside also. Landing correctly and safely is not learned when you can take a full layout fall from the top of the boulder onto a huge pad.


acorneau


Oct 18, 2010, 2:55 PM
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If you haven't already you should search/read/ask over here:

http://www.routesetter.com/forum/

Plenty of setters, wall designer/builders, and general gym-type people.


djlachelt


Oct 18, 2010, 6:17 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
djlachelt wrote:
One thing to think about... I think that a significant number of gym injuries are caused by someone landing on the edge of the drag pads and turning an ankle or worse.

I prefer a bouldering area with a single thick pad throughout. Then you don't have to worry about positioning a pad in the right place, etc. Of course, this type of padding is pretty expensive.

I think gym rats learning how to position pads effectively is a valuable skill to learn if they are going to go outside also. Landing correctly and safely is not learned when you can take a full layout fall from the top of the boulder onto a huge pad.

I totally agree. Boulderers should take responsibility to learn how to judge an appropriate place to position a pad, and should also learn how to spot their partners, moving the pads when necessary and also to help direct them onto the pad.

That said, if a boulderer falls outside and turns his ankle on the side of a pad he will pay the consequences himself and hopefully chalk it up to experience. However, if a boulderer turns his/her ankle indoors the owner of the facility tends to (rightly or wrongly) incur some consequences. At the least other patrons who may not be aware of the risks of bouldering may be turned off to the activity... this hurts business. At the worst the injured climber (or their insurance company) may attempt to seek some sort of damages. Even if they ultimately are denied, the owner has had some negative repercussions.

I was speaking from the perspective of someone considering what type of flooring to install in a new gym. The gym owner can't rely on every climber falling correctly onto the pad and must consider what will best avoid injuries in their facility to ensure a low accident rate and avoid costly insurance payouts, etc.

Ideally the gym will consider a combination of a good flooring system, careful monitoring of the bouldering area by staff, as well as climber education.


cruxstacean


Oct 19, 2010, 12:26 AM
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djlachelt wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
djlachelt wrote:
One thing to think about... I think that a significant number of gym injuries are caused by someone landing on the edge of the drag pads and turning an ankle or worse.

I prefer a bouldering area with a single thick pad throughout. Then you don't have to worry about positioning a pad in the right place, etc. Of course, this type of padding is pretty expensive.

I think gym rats learning how to position pads effectively is a valuable skill to learn if they are going to go outside also. Landing correctly and safely is not learned when you can take a full layout fall from the top of the boulder onto a huge pad.

I totally agree. Boulderers should take responsibility to learn how to judge an appropriate place to position a pad, and should also learn how to spot their partners, moving the pads when necessary and also to help direct them onto the pad.

That said, if a boulderer falls outside and turns his ankle on the side of a pad he will pay the consequences himself and hopefully chalk it up to experience. However, if a boulderer turns his/her ankle indoors the owner of the facility tends to (rightly or wrongly) incur some consequences. At the least other patrons who may not be aware of the risks of bouldering may be turned off to the activity... this hurts business. At the worst the injured climber (or their insurance company) may attempt to seek some sort of damages. Even if they ultimately are denied, the owner has had some negative repercussions.

I was speaking from the perspective of someone considering what type of flooring to install in a new gym. The gym owner can't rely on every climber falling correctly onto the pad and must consider what will best avoid injuries in their facility to ensure a low accident rate and avoid costly insurance payouts, etc.

Ideally the gym will consider a combination of a good flooring system, careful monitoring of the bouldering area by staff, as well as climber education.

It also depends on the type of pads. At my gym the movable pads are so beaten up and soft that leading on the edge is much, much less risky than landing on the edge of say a brand new Mad Pad.


guangzhou


Oct 20, 2010, 1:52 AM
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Thanks for all the input. Floor padding here is fairly inexpensive compared to the rest of the project.

I've seen a couple of gyms that use pea-gravel, what do you guys think of that?

Eman


acorneau


Oct 20, 2010, 2:33 AM
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guangzhou wrote:
I've seen a couple of gyms that use pea-gravel, what do you guys think of that?

It sucks, big time. There was a gym in north Houston that used to have it. Every time we'd go up there to climb we would end up with a layer of dirt half way up to our knees.

Our gym has the shredded tire rubber. While a bit better than the pea gravel, it still puts off a good amount of black dust that gets in your nose and settles on everything in the gym. I really wish we could go to a padded floor system.
Frown


(This post was edited by acorneau on Oct 20, 2010, 2:34 AM)


djlachelt


Oct 20, 2010, 5:39 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
I've seen a couple of gyms that use pea-gravel, what do you guys think of that?
Eman

My understanding is that using the small gravel (should be rounded, not rough pebbles) is actually one of the safest landing surfaces, but I still hate it.

* it's hard to walk in
* you can't clean it (unless you have a floor under the gravel that allows for water to drain away, and you'd better have a dry climate)
* it creates dust of its own that gets all over the climbers and their shoes
* the dust from the gravel is actually abrasive, and grinds the holds, polishing them more quickly than normal

And as for the chopped up rubber... yuck. The one gym I've been to that had that was the dirtiest gym I've ever been to. You can't clean it (at least I don't know of a reasonable way), and so the chalk dust and pulverized rubber bits just keep accumulating.


jakedatc


Oct 20, 2010, 6:02 PM
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+1 don't use loose flooring. just the fact that you can't clean it causes tons of dirt and dust/chalk build up and it sucks.

flat gymnastic flooring with foam under it may not be the softest but it is flat and predictable to fall on. and easily cleaned with a normal vacuum


(This post was edited by jakedatc on Oct 20, 2010, 6:02 PM)


milesenoell


Oct 20, 2010, 6:04 PM
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Anything is better than a place I climbed in Germany with no padding. Just hard slab floors. It was very clean though.

I don't know how others feel about them, but I don't care for those big pads with 45 degree edges.


djlachelt


Oct 21, 2010, 6:43 AM
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milesenoell wrote:
I don't know how others feel about them, but I don't care for those big pads with 45 degree edges.

I think those are an attempt to reduce turned ankles. I guess the real test of their effectiveness is whether there is a reduced rate of those kinds of accidents. I wonder if there are any stats on that.


onwardupward


Oct 24, 2010, 1:05 PM
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Padded gym floor= awesome place for a nap.


MS1


Oct 24, 2010, 2:17 PM
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onwardupward wrote:
Padded gym floor= awesome place for a nap.

If you tried that at my bouldering gym, you'd get the rudest awakening known to man: A small child jumping onto your nuts from ten feet in the air.


guangzhou


Nov 24, 2010, 7:19 AM
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MS1 wrote:
onwardupward wrote:
Padded gym floor= awesome place for a nap.

If you tried that at my bouldering gym, you'd get the rudest awakening known to man: A small child jumping onto your nuts from ten feet in the air.

What are you doing with your trad rack at the gym Tongue


bill413


Nov 24, 2010, 1:51 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
MS1 wrote:
onwardupward wrote:
Padded gym floor= awesome place for a nap.

If you tried that at my bouldering gym, you'd get the rudest awakening known to man: A small child jumping onto your nuts from ten feet in the air.

What are you doing with your trad rack at the gym Tongue

He uses it to try & impress the babes.


MS1


Nov 24, 2010, 4:45 PM
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bill413 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
MS1 wrote:
onwardupward wrote:
Padded gym floor= awesome place for a nap.

If you tried that at my bouldering gym, you'd get the rudest awakening known to man: A small child jumping onto your nuts from ten feet in the air.

What are you doing with your trad rack at the gym Tongue

He uses it to try & impress the babes.

Exactly. Unfortunately, there's nothing like hearing a lady ask, "Is that a c3 in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?" to put a serious dent in your ego. Maybe things will pick up once I invest in some wider gear.


petsfed


Nov 24, 2010, 5:03 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
djlachelt wrote:
One thing to think about... I think that a significant number of gym injuries are caused by someone landing on the edge of the drag pads and turning an ankle or worse.

I prefer a bouldering area with a single thick pad throughout. Then you don't have to worry about positioning a pad in the right place, etc. Of course, this type of padding is pretty expensive.

I think gym rats learning how to position pads effectively is a valuable skill to learn if they are going to go outside also. Landing correctly and safely is not learned when you can take a full layout fall from the top of the boulder onto a huge pad.

I agree with the sentiment, but your expectations for a climbing gym's goals and the reality are wildly divergent. A gym is business, and their ultimate goal is to ensure repeat customers. All else is secondary. With that in mind, preventing injuries through better facility management is more important than preventing injuries through customer education.


Express


Nov 24, 2010, 6:14 PM
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acorneau wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
I've seen a couple of gyms that use pea-gravel, what do you guys think of that?

It sucks, big time. There was a gym in north Houston that used to have it. Every time we'd go up there to climb we would end up with a layer of dirt half way up to our knees.
Frown

+1 The two gyms nearest to me has this awful gravel, as well. It leaves powder all over your shoes and most of the footholds on the bouldering routes have been polished into smooth knobs as a result. It absolutely sucks to fall on.

But, at least it's better than the solid hardwood floors they had at this other place I used to go to.


bill413


Nov 25, 2010, 12:08 AM
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MS1 wrote:
bill413 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
MS1 wrote:
onwardupward wrote:
Padded gym floor= awesome place for a nap.

If you tried that at my bouldering gym, you'd get the rudest awakening known to man: A small child jumping onto your nuts from ten feet in the air.

What are you doing with your trad rack at the gym Tongue

He uses it to try & impress the babes.

Exactly. Unfortunately, there's nothing like hearing a lady ask, "Is that a c3 in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?" to put a serious dent in your ego. Maybe things will pick up once I invest in some wider gear.

Well, they do say that knowing how to place small gear is important.


guangzhou


Nov 25, 2010, 7:02 AM
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petsfed wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
djlachelt wrote:
One thing to think about... I think that a significant number of gym injuries are caused by someone landing on the edge of the drag pads and turning an ankle or worse.

I prefer a bouldering area with a single thick pad throughout. Then you don't have to worry about positioning a pad in the right place, etc. Of course, this type of padding is pretty expensive.

I think gym rats learning how to position pads effectively is a valuable skill to learn if they are going to go outside also. Landing correctly and safely is not learned when you can take a full layout fall from the top of the boulder onto a huge pad.

I agree with the sentiment, but your expectations for a climbing gym's goals and the reality are wildly divergent. A gym is business, and their ultimate goal is to ensure repeat customers. All else is secondary. With that in mind, preventing injuries through better facility management is more important than preventing injuries through customer education.

A well managed gym has both an environment that helps prevent injuries and educates their users about safety.


petsfed


Nov 25, 2010, 4:11 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
A well managed gym has both an environment that helps prevent injuries and educates their users about safety.

From my experience, having a set up that involves drag pads but doesn't have some sort of mandatory spotting training means that you fail on both.

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