|
p0bray01
Jul 29, 2005, 11:31 PM
Post #1 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 148
|
Hey are there sport crack climbs? At the gym there is a crack climb that I top roped for the first time and it was awesome. However, I am gonna have to move into Trad to find good crack climbs?
|
|
|
|
|
andrewbanandrew
Jul 29, 2005, 11:34 PM
Post #2 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 441
|
You could move to France.
I'm joking.
Sort of.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jul 29, 2005, 11:53 PM
Post #3 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
There are a few crack sport climbs. However, they are few, and they tend to be a bit... controversial. :P
|
|
|
|
|
dschultz
Jul 30, 2005, 12:00 AM
Post #4 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2005
Posts: 40
|
Is a "crack sport climb" an oxymoron? There are a few in AZ at none other than Jack's Canyon. Yes, most of us who have been there have climbed "Sports Book" and liked it!
Name withheld....well sort of.
:wink:
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jul 30, 2005, 12:03 AM
Post #5 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: Hey are there sport crack climbs? At the gym there is a crack climb that I top roped for the first time and it was awesome. However, I am gonna have to move into Trad to find good crack climbs?
The traditional ethic, especially in North America, is that if a route can take clean pro, it shouldn't be bolted, so there are few bolted cracks in North America. There are a few exceptions, though. For instance, some dedicated sport crags have bolted cracks, essentially for the convience of not having to schlep a rack to the crag. Typically, such cracks aren't particularly high quality. So, if you want to become a crack climber, you will have to learn to place gear.
-Jay
|
|
|
|
|
fracture
Jul 30, 2005, 12:15 AM
Post #6 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 1814
|
Beth Rodden's route The Optimist is a sport climb, and is about half crack climbing. Many of the holds are old pin scars from when it used to be an Aid route. (And it's 5.14b).
:D
|
|
|
|
|
megableem
Jul 30, 2005, 12:22 AM
Post #7 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2004
Posts: 160
|
.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Jul 30, 2005, 12:46 AM
Post #8 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
In reply to: Some people would argue that Indian Creek is a (crack) sport climbing area: single pitches, anchors 80-100 feet, pro every body length or so, plenty of opportunity to dog or TR. The only difference is that you carry cams instead of QDs. But in many respects, it qualifies as sport.
That's what makes the Creek so awesome. You can go for it like you can on sportclimbs because pro tends to be straightforward and can be places quickly.
|
|
|
|
|
stranded
Jul 30, 2005, 1:02 AM
Post #9 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 30, 2005
Posts: 2
|
SnottGirlz down at Potrero Chico is a bolted multipitch crack climb.
Fun too.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jul 31, 2005, 1:32 PM
Post #10 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
youll probably not find many in n. america, but there are some here.
|
|
|
|
|
rockrat_co
Jul 31, 2005, 3:14 PM
Post #11 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 194
|
indeed,
i know around here you will find a coupple but when an individual bolts a gear protectable crack the general climbing community seeks to hang that individual by their feet!
|
|
|
|
|
takanhase
Jul 31, 2005, 6:59 PM
Post #12 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2004
Posts: 141
|
I have seen some protectable sport climbs at the black cliffs in boise. I have also herd of a bolted crack line up in boulder canyon in colorado! but for the most part they are few and far between (thank god)
|
|
|
|
|
p0bray01
Aug 1, 2005, 7:44 PM
Post #13 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 148
|
thanks I appreciate the help...ahhhh wallet you and me are going shopping for some pro. :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
elvislegs
Aug 1, 2005, 8:05 PM
Post #14 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2002
Posts: 3148
|
In reply to: I have seen some protectable sport climbs at the black cliffs in boise.
i cna think of two particularly egregious examples at the mids.
ajax - 5.9
snake eyes -5.8
the beauty of it is that they are bolted in the oddest places and they are really pretty low quality in comparison to some of the stellar crack lines we have.
|
|
|
|
|
tucsonalex
Aug 2, 2005, 11:48 PM
Post #15 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2002
Posts: 1689
|
As mentioned above Jacks Canyon has some bolted cracks. Sport Park in Boulder Canyon has some very fine bolted splitter cracks, and Shelf Road has its share of bolted cracks too. Bolted cracks tend to be either controversial (like sport parks bolted granite splitters), not protect very well (like limestone cracks), or are bolted to avoid lugging a trad rack to a mostly sport area.
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Aug 3, 2005, 12:37 AM
Post #16 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
Jacks for sure has bolted cracks, but not as many as people think. And Sports Book, for example, isn't a splitter- it's an awkward cracky thing to face whose smiley face endorsement seems a bit generous. But anyway, assuming the OP isn't trolling, why not find a trad leader to second?
|
|
|
|
|
irockclimb
Aug 3, 2005, 1:21 AM
Post #17 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2003
Posts: 80
|
rofl bolted cracks WHY!?!?
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Aug 3, 2005, 4:31 PM
Post #18 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: rofl bolted cracks WHY!?!?
Can you read? If so, read the post from Tucson Alex that's a whole two posts above yours.
-Jay
|
|
|
|
|
irockclimb
Aug 3, 2005, 5:05 PM
Post #19 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2003
Posts: 80
|
Even on a splitter just climb it 2 much gear takes the fun out of the climb anyway
|
|
|
|
|
kpalsson
Aug 12, 2005, 4:09 PM
Post #20 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2004
Posts: 127
|
Speaking of sporting it up at the creek, I met some people there who despite carrying a rack of cams, and leading up down left and right all day, said they don't consider themselves trad climbers at all, and wouldn't know what to do on a trad climb. Sling extension made no sense to them, and nuts were strange.
Kudos for knowing the limits of their skills, and mega kudos to being way hotter (both sexually and in climbing skills) than me, but it was still reallllly weird to see.
Walk up to the base and work out whether it's red, yellow or blue, then go and collect 6 of them and off you go.
|
|
|
|
|
md3
Aug 12, 2005, 4:26 PM
Post #21 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 13, 2004
Posts: 172
|
In reply to: mega kudos to being way hotter (both sexually and in climbing skills) than me, but it was still reallllly weird to see.
I want to see pictures of such awesome sexy weirdness.
|
|
|
|
|
asandh
Aug 12, 2005, 4:27 PM
Post #22 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
|
tucsonalex wrote:In reply to: or are bolted to avoid lugging a trad rack to a mostly sport area.
Yep, well, duh, that pretty much gives you all the excuse you need ... my trad rack's too heavy, bolt some cracks for me ... :cry:
Lets see ... Sport Climbers are ...
Too lazy to carry a trad rack ...
Too lazy to place their own draws ...
Too lazy to rap off their anchors so they lower ...
Worried about getting killed when they lower so they have a whole separate thread that whines about how dangerous it is ...
Sport Climbers ... How 'bout we just chop all the lead bolts because they are just there for show anyway, and you fess up to what you're really doing ...
Top Roping ... not that there's anything wrong with that. :roll:
... Then you could also have fixed ropes hanging from your fixed anchors ... oh, but then you'd still have to carry your shoes and chalk bag to the crag :cry:
|
|
|
|
|
janjaf
Aug 17, 2005, 10:20 AM
Post #23 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2001
Posts: 76
|
In reply to: Walk up to the base and work out whether it's red, yellow or blue, then go and collect 6 of them and off you go.
ah, now that's my kind of tradding. too bad it's in the US
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Sep 10, 2005, 10:17 PM
Post #24 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
There are a number of excellent bolted cracks at El Potrero Chico.
Devil's Lake in Wisconsin has hundreds of super-fine cracks which are easy to put a top rope on.
|
|
|
|
|
lardbutt
Sep 11, 2005, 12:00 AM
Post #25 of 132
(47146 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2005
Posts: 29
|
Perry's lieback on the Grand Wall in Squamish is a classic all-bolts 7-inch wide splitter undercling/layback. You'll have to climb a bunch of regular trad to get to it, though.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
