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qwert
Jan 15, 2012, 11:08 AM
Post #27 of 28
(1643 views)
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394
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acorneau wrote: I remember one regular poster (can't remember who) who used a #9 hex as a belay device and even posted a picture! Edit to add: Found it... Qwert. In reply to: Contrary to this guy, i am the epitome of safety. Here i am belaying my follower [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=2623;[/image] http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1993693#1993693
thats me!
but since it is now linked to the beginners forum, it should be noted that there are a lot of [sarcasm] tags missing.
I still think that a hex - or any other sufficiently strong ring or tube like object - can be used as a belay or rappel device, but i do strongly advice against it!
There is a reason that 99% of climbers use special "belay and/or rappel devices" to belay and rappel. They are built for that use, and - in most cases - have a sufficient and known braking force.
However one nebulosity remains:
Unlike almost all other rockclimbing gear belay devices (and ironically rap rings too) do not have a required (at least in europe) norm, standard or test that they have to pass.
Among a lot of unverified claims, flaming and what could probably be called defamation regarding the italian company "kong", there is also some interesting discussion about these ratings - or better lack thereof - going on here.
Again: Im not advocating to use/abuse devices in ways they are not meant to be used, or to even invent new ways yourself, especially as a beginner, but i think it is important to point out that (most) belay devices differ from almost all other climbing equipment, and that belaying is very much depended on the skills of the belayer!
Just because someone uses a device that is specifically made as a belay device by BD/DMM/WC/Trango/Kong/whoever does not automatically make their belay good and safe!
qwert
(This post was edited by qwert on Jan 15, 2012, 11:09 AM)
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bearbreeder
Jan 16, 2012, 4:52 AM
Post #28 of 28
(1620 views)
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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i still cant understand why one wouldnt use a munter for belay and biner brake for rap ....
they are tried, tested and true ... and one will likely have all the needed equipment ...
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