 |

BNPrather
Sep 24, 2012, 11:18 PM
Post #1 of 33
(22130 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2012
Posts: 1
|
I started climbing a couple months ago in the gym, and fell in love with the sport. I've recently started going out with fellow climbers to do sport climbing. I'm looking to purchase a rope for myself, any suggestions? I haven't started leading just yet, but here in the next couple weeks I will be so the rope should be durable enough for top roping for awhile as well. I would like to find a good, durable rope that won't break me financially.
|
|
|
 |
 |

Matthew0718
Sep 25, 2012, 1:24 PM
Post #2 of 33
(22046 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2012
Posts: 36
|
Well since your just sport climbing on single pitch routes I would suggest a rope by sterling. 10.4 diameter and 60 meters. Dry treated is not needed unless you will be climbing ice or alpine and bi pattern is not needed unless you are doing some long rappel situations. But if you have the cash go ahead and shell out the extra money for dry treated by bi pattern. Also If you start leading indoors dont use that 200 doller rope. I suggest you buy a 20 meter rope for indoors. Don't use the expensive rope for indoors.
|
|
|
 |
 |

markc
Sep 25, 2012, 1:59 PM
Post #3 of 33
(22041 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
Matthew0718 wrote: Well since your just sport climbing on single pitch routes I would suggest a rope by sterling. 10.4 diameter and 60 meters. Dry treated is not needed unless you will be climbing ice or alpine and bi pattern is not needed unless you are doing some long rappel situations. But if you have the cash go ahead and shell out the extra money for dry treated by bi pattern. Also If you start leading indoors dont use that 200 doller rope. I suggest you buy a 20 meter rope for indoors. Don't use the expensive rope for indoors. To follow up on this advice, I'd do some research and buy the cheapest 60m rope you can in the 10.2 - 10.5mm range. That's a good diameter for an all-around rope. I agree that it's unnecessary at this point to worry about dry-treated, bi-weave, etc. A site like http://www.spadout.com can help you compare prices, and I've scored a really inexpensive rope through a daily deal through Sierra Trading Post. If you're not too worried about the cost, see which of your friend's ropes you really like and go with that.
|
|
|
 |
 |

madkiki
Sep 25, 2012, 2:03 PM
Post #4 of 33
(22038 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2004
Posts: 62
|
Buying a new rope is an investment. I happen to have three ropes, 2 60m at 10.4, and one 70m rope at 9.8. I am no expert on ropes, so I rather shell out the money to buy something that I can rely on to keep me safe. The 70m ropes are somewhat heavier to carry on long trips, but come in handy on long rappels. I like my ropes to have something to mark the middle of the rope. It comes in handy for a lot of reasons. All my ropes are dry treated just in case something happens like getting caught in the rain or whatever. My water-bladder in my backpack leaked all over my rope one day and took forever to dry the rope. For those who get hooked on outdoor climbing, they want to do more adventurous climbing, which might require more equipment. So, start with 60m rope, enjoy it, learn from the experience, and then plan on saving money for more equipment.
|
|
|
 |
 |

bearbreeder
Sep 25, 2012, 3:53 PM
Post #5 of 33
(22020 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
|
1. if yr cragging you dont need bi-patterns, dry treatment or other fancy stuff ... youll likely wear it out TRing or taking falls, ive worn out dry treatments in less than 2 months climbing everyday 2. if you can buy a 70m if yr sport climbing as with enough falls you may well chop the ends eventually, and some new sport climbs may require a 70m rope 3. a 60m is perfectly acceptable in many places if you find a screaming deal on one ... such as the one you can buy in canada for 85$ 4. get a 10-10.3 for yr first rope, youll likely be TRing or falling quite a bit ... you want something durable ... dont go out and get skinny lines for yr first one, TR on it and then watch it get shreaded ALL certified cheap 10mm+ climbing ropes are safe and will work for yr first rope ... unless yr sending very hard stuff its not the rope that will hold you back i find it quite funny personally when some guy at the crag starts bragging about his $$$$ rope with fancy patterns and dry treatment ... and all he does is do easy lead and TRs
|
|
|
 |
 |

DougMartin
Sep 25, 2012, 5:27 PM
Post #6 of 33
(21995 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 29, 2011
Posts: 138
|
http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Mammut-Supernova-with-Rope-Bag-Package_10177328_10208_10000001_-1_ (I have no idea how make it clicky) Great first rope. Cheap and you will not feel as guilty when you buy another one next year and retire this to top roping because you trash it.
|
|
|
 |
 |

jeepnphreak
Sep 25, 2012, 5:44 PM
Post #7 of 33
(21990 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
madkiki wrote: Buying a new rope is an investment. Bull Sh!*, a rope is an expendable pice of gear that may last 1 climb or 500 climbs. They are expensive but not an investment. madkiki wrote: I am no expert on ropes, so I rather shell out the money to buy something that I can rely on to keep me safe. Bull Sh!*!!! Every rope from a reputable manufacture HAS to pass UIAA and CE minimal certification. So every rope will keep you "safe" For a noob that will do alot of toproping, I recomend finding a fat 10.2-10.5 MM 60 or 70 meter (talk to locals about route height in your area) and cheap. Check out http://justropes.com http://spadout.com and google ropes on sale. You can find a great rope for 100- 150 that will meet your need. Now a more expensive rope will get you better handling (supple vs stuffer), dry treating, middle marks ect.
|
|
|
 |
 |

kwdrysdale
Sep 25, 2012, 5:55 PM
Post #8 of 33
(21988 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2012
Posts: 9
|
bearbreeder wrote: 3. a 60m is perfectly acceptable in many places if you find a screaming deal on one ... such as the one you can buy in canada for 85$ Just wondering...where can you get a 60m rope for $85 in Canada?? No sarcasm intended...pure interest. :) I'm also getting back into climbing and would love to be able to pick up a first rope and that sounds like a great deal to me. Thanks!
|
|
|
 |
 |

markc
Sep 25, 2012, 7:40 PM
Post #9 of 33
(21972 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
kwdrysdale wrote: bearbreeder wrote: 3. a 60m is perfectly acceptable in many places if you find a screaming deal on one ... such as the one you can buy in canada for 85$ Just wondering...where can you get a 60m rope for $85 in Canada?? No sarcasm intended...pure interest. :) I'm also getting back into climbing and would love to be able to pick up a first rope and that sounds like a great deal to me. Thanks! I can't answer that, but last year I bought a Mammut Eiger 10.5mm x 60m from Sierra Trading Post for $75 US. I signed up for their Deal Flyer emails and it was too good a deal to pass up. A gear shop in my area seems to have store-wide sales every season, and I'm on their mailing list. Places like Gear Express routinely have a couple ropes under $150, which is as much as I'd suggest spending on a first rope you're going to trash. I've found it can be hard to find ropes under $100, but I can consistently find them around $125 for a 60m without much effort (or bells and whistles).
|
|
|
 |
 |

Marylandclimber
Sep 25, 2012, 7:46 PM
Post #10 of 33
(21967 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2011
Posts: 224
|
I love the New England Equinox. It's 60m 10.4? in diameter. It's also very dynamic for leading...
|
|
|
 |
 |

billcoe_
Sep 25, 2012, 10:48 PM
Post #11 of 33
(21931 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
BNPrather wrote: I started climbing a couple months ago in the gym, and fell in love with the sport. I've recently started going out with fellow climbers to do sport climbing. I'm looking to purchase a rope for myself, any suggestions? I haven't started leading just yet, but here in the next couple weeks I will be so the rope should be durable enough for top roping for awhile as well. I would like to find a good, durable rope that won't break me financially. Get a fat cheap one for your first rope. UIAA single rated. I own about 20 ropes currently, if I was to be able to only own one instead of 20, it would be fat and cheap. Some damned hard routes were put up with fat 11mil ropes, all this talk to buy is skinny line is so much bullshit. Fat and cheap. Lots of good choices, most all climbing rope Mfgs (Bluewater, Sterling, Edelrid, Edelweiss, Mammut, Beal, PMI, Tenon, Lanex etc etc) make a fat cheap one.
|
|
|
 |
 |

markc
Sep 26, 2012, 1:56 PM
Post #13 of 33
(21857 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
In the quote/reply screen, there are buttons just under the text box. The next to last is "url" which you just click before and after you paste your link.
|
|
|
 |
 |

DougMartin
Sep 26, 2012, 3:19 PM
Post #14 of 33
(21841 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 29, 2011
Posts: 138
|
Thanks.
|
|
|
 |
 |

jorgegonzalez
Sep 26, 2012, 6:41 PM
Post #15 of 33
(21822 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 17, 2005
Posts: 144
|
Really, thanks from me, too!
|
|
|
 |
 |

guangzhou
Sep 28, 2012, 3:27 AM
Post #16 of 33
(21735 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
OP. According to your profile, you are in TN. If you're sport climbing in the area, a 60 meter is plenty for you. Even crags that you can top-rope, a 60 meter is plenty. I live in TN for a few years, Foster Falls, Obed, King's Bluff, T-wall, Start Mountain and Sunset I practically lived at. Southern Illinois was also a very regular destination. I never needed anything more than a 60 meter rope. Anything in the 10mm range make a nice rope these days. 11mm will last you a long time, but gets heavy. Not heavy enough that I completely avoid them. If you do a lot of top-rope, consider a 11mm for sure. Cheers, Eman
|
|
|
 |
 |

hugepedro
Sep 28, 2012, 7:08 AM
Post #17 of 33
(21719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 2875
|
madkiki wrote: All my ropes are dry treated just in case something happens like getting caught in the rain or whatever. My water-bladder in my backpack leaked all over my rope one day and took forever to dry the rope. Hahahahaha, I have to admit, in all my years of climbing, I've never considered the danger of my bladder leaking on my rope. I feel really stupid now. Thank God I've survived this long!
|
|
|
 |
 |

guangzhou
Sep 28, 2012, 9:58 AM
Post #18 of 33
(21710 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
A dozen trip up a rock route and the dry treatment is gone anyways, especially on easier routes. I have never owned a dry threated rope. I have been rained on while doing big walls, while rapping off long routes, and I've used some of my old ropes for canyooneering adventures too. Never been a real issue. If your water bladder soaked your rope so must that your rope took forever to dry, you must carry a very large bladder. On a side note, wet ropes don't mean less strength, just more weight.
|
|
|
 |
 |

ecade
Sep 28, 2012, 3:30 PM
Post #19 of 33
(21690 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2011
Posts: 132
|
Couldn't agree more with the second replier, I should have checked where you're from and read the rest of the topic, but am at work and don't like ppl see me on this forum while their, bad for employee morale. but, indoors i use http://www.lacordee.com/...art-10mm/lnx-smart10 I have not used this rope outdoors and I wouldn't, people do, but I find it really dynamic so for top roping I don't think it would be the best. I really like it, I believe falling indoors is vital to a good session and have beaten the bejezuz out of her... she doesn't get too kinky (get the pun) but I think she is into that shit :) I say that cause she always come back for more. outdoor sport climbing, I like sterlings 10.1 Marathon Pro http://www.sterlingrope.com/.../Marathon_Pro_10.1mm Happy and Safe climbing (edited to make second sentence make sense)
(This post was edited by ecade on Sep 28, 2012, 3:53 PM)
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
 |
 |

bearbreeder
Sep 28, 2012, 4:28 PM
Post #21 of 33
(21675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
|
its no more stretchy than a beal or eldrid IME ... everyone i know who has one uses it outside ... if yr worried about the stretch in a top rope, then keep it tight or pretension the rope ... stretch is what you want for sport whippers as well it doesnt make sense to use a rope indoors but not use it outside cragging ... either it holds you or it doesnt ... if it fails inside or outside is irrelevant
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Sep 28, 2012, 4:29 PM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

ecade
Sep 28, 2012, 4:51 PM
Post #22 of 33
(21669 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2011
Posts: 132
|
respectfully agree and disagree I am no scientist or engineer, i could very easily be wrong on everything noted below. but IMHO: dont know what the stretch is on the beals or eldrids, i believe the tendon's 36%, I think that's pretty high. the sterling is 30%. I think that its better to get a good belayer than a stretchy rope, an overley stretchy rope makes it hard to judge falls and obstructions. a little slack can go a longer way. but yes stretch makes falls softer, but bigger isn't always better. on TR, for me at least, its either a project that i'm too scared to try on lead or with noobs, for projects i don't want the rope too tight I want to learn the movements, resovle fear of unkwown etc... not have something acting as too much of an aid. And for noobs they don't like falling and dropping far. and I don't like pulling them up. its a climbing version of marx, the more one attributes to the rope (g-d) the less they attain for themself (paraphrased a while since i read the manifesto) other issues i omitted, not corroborrated with science (don't know stats) but I think the tendon has a low sheath percentage and would be beaten to hell on my homes choss. I've beaten it to hell at my gym. this point may possibly prove wrong, I should jinvest 5 minutes and corroborate but eh i already bought the darn thing :) that said, the guy who suggested the rope to me, used it outdoors and loved it. it does have a centre marker. Again, this is my opinion based on little (read no) controlable science. so take it with a grain of salt. happy and safe climbing and fun rope debating.
|
|
|
 |
 |

JimTitt
Sep 28, 2012, 7:24 PM
Post #23 of 33
(21642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 7, 2008
Posts: 1002
|
bearbreeder wrote: 1. if yr cragging you dont need bi-patterns, dry treatment or other fancy stuff ... youll likely wear it out TRing or taking falls, ive worn out dry treatments in less than 2 months climbing everyday 2. if you can buy a 70m if yr sport climbing as with enough falls you may well chop the ends eventually, and some new sport climbs may require a 70m rope 3. a 60m is perfectly acceptable in many places if you find a screaming deal on one ... such as the one you can buy in canada for 85$ 4. get a 10-10.3 for yr first rope, youll likely be TRing or falling quite a bit ... you want something durable ... dont go out and get skinny lines for yr first one, TR on it and then watch it get shreaded ALL certified cheap 10mm+ climbing ropes are safe and will work for yr first rope ... unless yr sending very hard stuff its not the rope that will hold you back i find it quite funny personally when some guy at the crag starts bragging about his $$$$ rope with fancy patterns and dry treatment ... and all he does is do easy lead and TRs  We just go for "long enough, strong enough".
|
|
|
 |
 |

bearbreeder
Sep 29, 2012, 9:26 AM
Post #24 of 33
(21593 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
|
ecade wrote: respectfully agree and disagree I am no scientist or engineer, i could very easily be wrong on everything noted below. but IMHO: dont know what the stretch is on the beals or eldrids, i believe the tendon's 36%, I think that's pretty high. the sterling is 30%. I think that its better to get a good belayer than a stretchy rope, an overley stretchy rope makes it hard to judge falls and obstructions. a little slack can go a longer way. but yes stretch makes falls softer, but bigger isn't always better. on TR, for me at least, its either a project that i'm too scared to try on lead or with noobs, for projects i don't want the rope too tight I want to learn the movements, resovle fear of unkwown etc... not have something acting as too much of an aid. And for noobs they don't like falling and dropping far. and I don't like pulling them up. its a climbing version of marx, the more one attributes to the rope (g-d) the less they attain for themself (paraphrased a while since i read the manifesto) other issues i omitted, not corroborrated with science (don't know stats) but I think the tendon has a low sheath percentage and would be beaten to hell on my homes choss. I've beaten it to hell at my gym. this point may possibly prove wrong, I should jinvest 5 minutes and corroborate but eh i already bought the darn thing :) that said, the guy who suggested the rope to me, used it outdoors and loved it. it does have a centre marker. Again, this is my opinion based on little (read no) controlable science. so take it with a grain of salt. happy and safe climbing and fun rope debating. incorrect the tendon smart 10m has LESS measured static and roughly the same dynamic stretch than the sterling marathon pro that you use outside 7.2% vs 8.4% static ... which is more applicable for top rope body weight situations 36% v 35.2% dynamic... which means its basically the same by those specs the sterling marathon pro 10.1 would be "unsuitable" for outdoors by yr reasoning http://www.lacordee.com/...gle-rope/lnx-smart10 http://www.sterlingrope.com/.../Marathon_Pro_10.1mm as to the "sheath" not lasting as long ... this is what happened by around pitch 1000+ on my tendon ... i used it for everything from sport whippers, to long multi, to TR gangbangs ... and it just kept on ticking ...
i repeat there there is little reason not to use one particular rope vs, another of roughly the same size and specs for cragging outdoors, especially TR ... the only thing that i can think of would be the ease of handling through autolocking devices ... if yr worried about rope stretch at the start use a static rope ... the tendon and the sterling have the same measured stretch ... but then one is cooler and costs $$$$ more than the other the tendon smart 10mm 60m is really a 150$+ rope which is what they go for on just ropes when in stock ... however in canada we have the opportunity to buy it for 85 smackaroos and not from some hack on ebay either http://www.justropes.com/...Rope-10mm-x-60m.aspx
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Sep 29, 2012, 9:43 AM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

ecade
Oct 2, 2012, 3:44 PM
Post #25 of 33
(21431 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2011
Posts: 132
|
Well only really one way to respond when someone refutes every point you make, will consider purchasing a rope next season for TR, any reccomendations, you clearly know your stuff well. though this is comedic, i do mean it sincerely. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rwPovyR9HY On sterling: I bought my sterling after my petzl zenith sheath tore and exposed the core, it was damn scary, happened while pulling slack to rap at anchors on a sport line. Sterling marathon was the cheapest rope in stock at the local store, needed a rope as the zenith was trashed afterwords and i wanted to climb that weekend. a good lesson i learnt: make sure your belayer is paying attention when pulling up slack to clean, though you might not be "on belay" eyes on the ground are worth having. I learnt the lesson at a price I could afford, and luckily not at one that I don't wish to ever pay. edited for grammar
(This post was edited by ecade on Oct 2, 2012, 8:04 PM)
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
 |
|
|