|
coastal_climber
Jun 8, 2010, 2:43 PM
Post #26 of 59
(3698 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
hafilax wrote: +1 on the round stock biner being far superior for autoblocking off the anchor.
I have to disagree. Releasing some slack into the system for switching to lower with a round stock biner takes longer, since theres no edges that "grab" the rope.
|
|
|
|
|
hafilax
Jun 8, 2010, 3:22 PM
Post #27 of 59
(3682 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
|
coastal_climber wrote: hafilax wrote: +1 on the round stock biner being far superior for autoblocking off the anchor. I have to disagree. Releasing some slack into the system for switching to lower with a round stock biner takes longer, since theres no edges that "grab" the rope.
|
|
|
|
|
psprings
Jun 8, 2010, 5:24 PM
Post #28 of 59
(3657 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 254
|
1. Huge gate clearance (opens slightly to the side)
2. Deep basket for lots of rope/webbing
3. Uniform HMS shape very nice for Munter Hitches, which is handy when the knot reverses
4. Keylock
5. Made in the USA
What's not to like?
(This post was edited by psprings on Jun 8, 2010, 5:28 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
shoo
Jun 8, 2010, 5:43 PM
Post #29 of 59
(3649 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
|
I never liked the OP Jake. The offeset gate opening always felt awkward to me. Maybe I just don't like curvy 'biners for whatever reason. I'll go ahead and throw it in the "I don't like it, but I can't put my finger on why" category. Glad to see they upgraded to a keylock nose, though.
|
|
|
|
|
rmsusa
Jun 8, 2010, 6:30 PM
Post #30 of 59
(3622 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2004
Posts: 1017
|
psprings wrote: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/gear/products/9/20709-large_work-Omega_Pacific_Jake_Keylock_Screw-Lock_Carabiner_10080851_3.jpg[/image] 1. Huge gate clearance (opens slightly to the side) 2. Deep basket for lots of rope/webbing 3. Uniform HMS shape very nice for Munter Hitches, which is handy when the knot reverses 4. Keylock 5. Made in the USA What's not to like?
The Jake is my choice, but I prefer the auto-lock.
|
|
|
|
|
ianmeister89
Jun 8, 2010, 8:41 PM
Post #31 of 59
(3598 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2009
Posts: 140
|
Mammut bionic HMS with a grigri/ Metolius element with a BD Guide
curious to see nobody has mentioned any Mammut biners, I'm beginning to wonder why...
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jun 8, 2010, 8:45 PM
Post #32 of 59
(3594 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
ianmeister89 wrote: curious to see nobody has mentioned any Mammut biners, I'm beginning to wonder why...
Who even knew they made carabiners?
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
redlude97
Jun 8, 2010, 9:05 PM
Post #33 of 59
(3577 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990
|
They are relatively new the biner market
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jun 8, 2010, 9:35 PM
Post #34 of 59
(3562 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
psprings wrote: What's not to like?
It's stupid heavy (99 grams!) and ugly looking.
|
|
|
|
|
psprings
Jun 8, 2010, 9:37 PM
Post #35 of 59
(3559 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 254
|
If you aren't getting a heavy belay biner, you're getting one of the new ones with all sorts of edges due to I-beam hot forging, usually not as nice on your rope for belaying.
Most belay biners weight in the same neighborhood.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jun 8, 2010, 9:50 PM
Post #36 of 59
(3554 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
psprings wrote: If you aren't getting a heavy belay biner, you're getting one of the new ones with all sorts of edges due to I-beam hot forging, usually not as nice on your rope for belaying. Most belay biners weight in the same neighborhood.
BD Rocklock 85g
BD Mini Pearbiner 68g
Petzl Am'D Triact 74g
Am'D screwlock 78g
Attache 80g
Metolius Element 73g
Rock Exotica Pirate 80g
|
|
|
|
|
psprings
Jun 8, 2010, 10:15 PM
Post #37 of 59
(3541 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 254
|
You're really comparing something as small as an Attache (among others) to something like the Jake? The Jake holds more rope, doesn't have as much rope crowding/pinching/rubbing on rappel.
I mean, LOL, you are really trying to compare weights of something that is that much smaller?
If you want a smaller HMS, there are certainly options, but my opinion (and it's only my opinion) is that a big HMS with lots of room makes for very nice belaying a rappelling. I think the Jake does a great job at that.
(This post was edited by psprings on Jun 8, 2010, 10:17 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jun 8, 2010, 10:19 PM
Post #38 of 59
(3536 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
psprings wrote: If you want a smaller HMS, there are certainly options, but my opinion (and it's only my opinion) is that a big HMS with lots of room makes for very nice belaying a rappelling. I think the Jake does a great job at that.
Larger belay biners reduce the amount of rope the belayer can pay out in an armful, making short-roping more likely.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
climbingtrash
Jun 8, 2010, 11:47 PM
Post #39 of 59
(3516 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
|
acorneau wrote: psprings wrote: What's not to like? It's stupid heavy (99 grams!) and ugly looking.
C'mon now, biner's are like women...sometimes you just have to drink 'em cute.
|
|
|
|
|
climbingtrash
Jun 8, 2010, 11:48 PM
Post #40 of 59
(3514 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
|
jt512 wrote: psprings wrote: If you want a smaller HMS, there are certainly options, but my opinion (and it's only my opinion) is that a big HMS with lots of room makes for very nice belaying a rappelling. I think the Jake does a great job at that. Larger belay biners reduce the amount of rope the belayer can pay out in an armful, making short-roping more likely. Jay
Only if yur a n00b.
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Jun 9, 2010, 2:04 AM
Post #42 of 59
(3491 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
positron (or other small asym d) for my cinch or grigri or a rocklock for my atc guide.
|
|
|
|
|
patto
Jun 9, 2010, 2:49 PM
Post #43 of 59
(3425 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 1453
|
I think the weight of your belay biner is largely irrelevant. You only carry one, 15g isn't going to make a huge difference. However its functionality is very important considering you could be using it 50% of the time your on the wall. Size/weight can affect functionality though.
I have 2 biners at the opposite end of the spectrum.
My DMM shield is tiny and one of the lightest 54g, I find a smaller size is great to reduce flop while lead belaying. It keeps everything nice and simple for standard single rope belaying.
For silky smooth belays expecially with autoblock belays a nice fat biner is in order. I have the Petzl William and it awesome. Lots of room for munterhitching or other uses. DMM Fat Boy is another similar biner I'd consider.
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Jun 9, 2010, 3:13 PM
Post #44 of 59
(3420 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
Biner: No idea what it called, its BD and like 15 years old.
For single pitch topping roping with noobs atc guide handles the fatter ropes well.
Multi pitch or leading only days. Reverso 3 handles the skinner ropes better than the guide, IMHO and its a toutch lighter than the guide as well.
|
|
|
|
|
squishy654
Jun 9, 2010, 6:26 PM
Post #45 of 59
(3384 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2008
Posts: 137
|
Element biner Weight: 73g
Reverso 3 weight: 77g
Total 150g
Plus it works better than anything else I have used. I have tried many, the Boa was ok, but it's just to big and heavy for alpine and trad routes...
|
|
|
|
|
AlexCV
Jun 9, 2010, 7:28 PM
Post #46 of 59
(3356 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2008
Posts: 283
|
psprings wrote: You're really comparing something as small as an Attache (among others) to something like the Jake? The Jake holds more rope, doesn't have as much rope crowding/pinching/rubbing on rappel.
I own one each of the Jake and Jake Jr. (the old notched nose) and I belayed a lot off of them. I got the Jake Jr. because the jake was just too big for my taste. It makes a great "master point" kind of biner though, like the Am'D for that matter.
As for the OP. I own 2 Attaches. I never looked back for belaying. Perfect size, perfect shape, round stock. Münter is excellent in it.
|
|
|
|
|
chrisJoosse
Jun 9, 2010, 9:32 PM
Post #47 of 59
(3333 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 150
|
This is a fantastic belay 'biner. I don't know why it's not more popular.
|
|
|
|
|
Khoi
Jun 9, 2010, 10:24 PM
Post #48 of 59
(3315 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2008
Posts: 294
|
I hate cross-loading with a passion so for belaying I use the Simond Spider+BLC
Snag-free nose and no cross-loading!
For multipitch and trad I use the Petzl Reverso^3. For sport climbing I use the Trango Cinch.
|
|
|
|
|
neverwalk
Jun 10, 2010, 1:21 AM
Post #49 of 59
(3287 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2010
Posts: 18
|
For Guiding, LOVE the Petzl Gri-Gri and Freino combo. A great combo for almost any conceivable scenario. Built in friction option for lowering a "big" load, with just a simple clip, rather than grabbing an additional biner and adding it into the system.
For belaying a leader, the Attache and an ATC. smooth feed, less chance of short roping a fast clip than a Gri-Gri.
|
|
|
|
|
|
