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coastal_climber
Jun 8, 2010, 2:43 PM
Post #26 of 59
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hafilax wrote: +1 on the round stock biner being far superior for autoblocking off the anchor. I have to disagree. Releasing some slack into the system for switching to lower with a round stock biner takes longer, since theres no edges that "grab" the rope.
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hafilax
Jun 8, 2010, 3:22 PM
Post #27 of 59
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coastal_climber wrote: hafilax wrote: +1 on the round stock biner being far superior for autoblocking off the anchor. I have to disagree. Releasing some slack into the system for switching to lower with a round stock biner takes longer, since theres no edges that "grab" the rope. I'm not sure what you mean but I rarely, if ever, have to lower. Having the ropes run smoothly while taking in rope is more important to me.
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psprings
Jun 8, 2010, 5:24 PM
Post #28 of 59
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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1. Huge gate clearance (opens slightly to the side) 2. Deep basket for lots of rope/webbing 3. Uniform HMS shape very nice for Munter Hitches, which is handy when the knot reverses 4. Keylock 5. Made in the USA What's not to like?
(This post was edited by psprings on Jun 8, 2010, 5:28 PM)
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shoo
Jun 8, 2010, 5:43 PM
Post #29 of 59
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I never liked the OP Jake. The offeset gate opening always felt awkward to me. Maybe I just don't like curvy 'biners for whatever reason. I'll go ahead and throw it in the "I don't like it, but I can't put my finger on why" category. Glad to see they upgraded to a keylock nose, though.
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rmsusa
Jun 8, 2010, 6:30 PM
Post #30 of 59
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psprings wrote: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/gear/products/9/20709-large_work-Omega_Pacific_Jake_Keylock_Screw-Lock_Carabiner_10080851_3.jpg[/image] 1. Huge gate clearance (opens slightly to the side) 2. Deep basket for lots of rope/webbing 3. Uniform HMS shape very nice for Munter Hitches, which is handy when the knot reverses 4. Keylock 5. Made in the USA What's not to like? The Jake is my choice, but I prefer the auto-lock.
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ianmeister89
Jun 8, 2010, 8:41 PM
Post #31 of 59
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Registered: Jun 19, 2009
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Mammut bionic HMS with a grigri/ Metolius element with a BD Guide curious to see nobody has mentioned any Mammut biners, I'm beginning to wonder why...
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jt512
Jun 8, 2010, 8:45 PM
Post #32 of 59
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ianmeister89 wrote: curious to see nobody has mentioned any Mammut biners, I'm beginning to wonder why... Who even knew they made carabiners? Jay
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redlude97
Jun 8, 2010, 9:05 PM
Post #33 of 59
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They are relatively new the biner market
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acorneau
Jun 8, 2010, 9:35 PM
Post #34 of 59
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psprings wrote: What's not to like? It's stupid heavy (99 grams!) and ugly looking.
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psprings
Jun 8, 2010, 9:37 PM
Post #35 of 59
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If you aren't getting a heavy belay biner, you're getting one of the new ones with all sorts of edges due to I-beam hot forging, usually not as nice on your rope for belaying. Most belay biners weight in the same neighborhood.
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acorneau
Jun 8, 2010, 9:50 PM
Post #36 of 59
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psprings wrote: If you aren't getting a heavy belay biner, you're getting one of the new ones with all sorts of edges due to I-beam hot forging, usually not as nice on your rope for belaying. Most belay biners weight in the same neighborhood. BD Rocklock 85g BD Mini Pearbiner 68g Petzl Am'D Triact 74g Am'D screwlock 78g Attache 80g Metolius Element 73g Rock Exotica Pirate 80g
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psprings
Jun 8, 2010, 10:15 PM
Post #37 of 59
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You're really comparing something as small as an Attache (among others) to something like the Jake? The Jake holds more rope, doesn't have as much rope crowding/pinching/rubbing on rappel. I mean, LOL, you are really trying to compare weights of something that is that much smaller? If you want a smaller HMS, there are certainly options, but my opinion (and it's only my opinion) is that a big HMS with lots of room makes for very nice belaying a rappelling. I think the Jake does a great job at that.
(This post was edited by psprings on Jun 8, 2010, 10:17 PM)
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jt512
Jun 8, 2010, 10:19 PM
Post #38 of 59
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psprings wrote: If you want a smaller HMS, there are certainly options, but my opinion (and it's only my opinion) is that a big HMS with lots of room makes for very nice belaying a rappelling. I think the Jake does a great job at that. Larger belay biners reduce the amount of rope the belayer can pay out in an armful, making short-roping more likely. Jay
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climbingtrash
Jun 8, 2010, 11:47 PM
Post #39 of 59
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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acorneau wrote: psprings wrote: What's not to like? It's stupid heavy (99 grams!) and ugly looking. C'mon now, biner's are like women...sometimes you just have to drink 'em cute.
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climbingtrash
Jun 8, 2010, 11:48 PM
Post #40 of 59
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jt512 wrote: psprings wrote: If you want a smaller HMS, there are certainly options, but my opinion (and it's only my opinion) is that a big HMS with lots of room makes for very nice belaying a rappelling. I think the Jake does a great job at that. Larger belay biners reduce the amount of rope the belayer can pay out in an armful, making short-roping more likely. Jay Only if yur a n00b.
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vegastradguy
Jun 9, 2010, 2:04 AM
Post #42 of 59
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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positron (or other small asym d) for my cinch or grigri or a rocklock for my atc guide.
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patto
Jun 9, 2010, 2:49 PM
Post #43 of 59
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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
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I think the weight of your belay biner is largely irrelevant. You only carry one, 15g isn't going to make a huge difference. However its functionality is very important considering you could be using it 50% of the time your on the wall. Size/weight can affect functionality though. I have 2 biners at the opposite end of the spectrum. My DMM shield is tiny and one of the lightest 54g, I find a smaller size is great to reduce flop while lead belaying. It keeps everything nice and simple for standard single rope belaying. For silky smooth belays expecially with autoblock belays a nice fat biner is in order. I have the Petzl William and it awesome. Lots of room for munterhitching or other uses. DMM Fat Boy is another similar biner I'd consider.
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jeepnphreak
Jun 9, 2010, 3:13 PM
Post #44 of 59
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Registered: Jul 29, 2008
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Biner: No idea what it called, its BD and like 15 years old. For single pitch topping roping with noobs atc guide handles the fatter ropes well. Multi pitch or leading only days. Reverso 3 handles the skinner ropes better than the guide, IMHO and its a toutch lighter than the guide as well.
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squishy654
Jun 9, 2010, 6:26 PM
Post #45 of 59
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Registered: May 18, 2008
Posts: 137
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Element biner Weight: 73g Reverso 3 weight: 77g Total 150g Plus it works better than anything else I have used. I have tried many, the Boa was ok, but it's just to big and heavy for alpine and trad routes...
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AlexCV
Jun 9, 2010, 7:28 PM
Post #46 of 59
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Registered: Jan 25, 2008
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psprings wrote: You're really comparing something as small as an Attache (among others) to something like the Jake? The Jake holds more rope, doesn't have as much rope crowding/pinching/rubbing on rappel. I own one each of the Jake and Jake Jr. (the old notched nose) and I belayed a lot off of them. I got the Jake Jr. because the jake was just too big for my taste. It makes a great "master point" kind of biner though, like the Am'D for that matter. As for the OP. I own 2 Attaches. I never looked back for belaying. Perfect size, perfect shape, round stock. Münter is excellent in it.
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chrisJoosse
Jun 9, 2010, 9:32 PM
Post #47 of 59
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Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 150
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This is a fantastic belay 'biner. I don't know why it's not more popular.
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Khoi
Jun 9, 2010, 10:24 PM
Post #48 of 59
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Registered: Apr 11, 2008
Posts: 294
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I hate cross-loading with a passion so for belaying I use the Simond Spider+BLC Snag-free nose and no cross-loading! For multipitch and trad I use the Petzl Reverso^3. For sport climbing I use the Trango Cinch.
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neverwalk
Jun 10, 2010, 1:21 AM
Post #49 of 59
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Registered: Apr 10, 2010
Posts: 18
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For Guiding, LOVE the Petzl Gri-Gri and Freino combo. A great combo for almost any conceivable scenario. Built in friction option for lowering a "big" load, with just a simple clip, rather than grabbing an additional biner and adding it into the system. For belaying a leader, the Attache and an ATC. smooth feed, less chance of short roping a fast clip than a Gri-Gri.
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