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TheProducer
Jun 7, 2010, 11:30 PM
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Whats everyones favorite belay carabiner? and belay device?
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error
Jun 7, 2010, 11:40 PM
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It depends on what I'm doing...
Multipitch ice and trad - Petzl Reverso3 + Attache
Ducking around - BD ATC XP + Rocklock
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Gmburns2000
Jun 7, 2010, 11:45 PM
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biner: DMM belay master
device: it depends (guide or grigri mostly)
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hafilax
Jun 7, 2010, 11:49 PM
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HERA Petzl Attache
The Belay master kind of sucks for multipitch. You have to lock it to close the plastic doodad which is a real PITA on the back of the harness.
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patmay81
Jun 8, 2010, 12:30 AM
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I personally use a metolius locker, that little thing you have to screw 5 thousand times to get it to lock all the way, and an atc guide.
I'm not picky though, and will use whatever I grab out of the gear closet in a pinch.
I try not to do hip belays, they can hurt, and don't like munters, they wear the rope out.
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redlude97
Jun 8, 2010, 12:35 AM
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Reverso 3+Vaporlock or Cinch+Positron Locker
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Gmburns2000
Jun 8, 2010, 1:04 AM
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hafilax wrote: HERA Petzl Attache The Belay master kind of sucks for multipitch. You have to lock it to close the plastic doodad which is a real PITA on the back of the harness.
I use it on multi-pitch routes all the time (I really like it's non-cross-loading selling point). I don't lock it when it sits on my harness, and it doesn't get in the way at all.
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hafilax
Jun 8, 2010, 1:07 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: HERA Petzl Attache The Belay master kind of sucks for multipitch. You have to lock it to close the plastic doodad which is a real PITA on the back of the harness. I use it on multi-pitch routes all the time (I really like it's non-cross-loading selling point). I don't lock it when it sits on my harness, and it doesn't get in the way at all.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 8, 2010, 1:16 AM
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hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: HERA Petzl Attache The Belay master kind of sucks for multipitch. You have to lock it to close the plastic doodad which is a real PITA on the back of the harness. I use it on multi-pitch routes all the time (I really like it's non-cross-loading selling point). I don't lock it when it sits on my harness, and it doesn't get in the way at all. I had the plastic thing get ripped off a couple of times. I thought it was a great idea at first but now I think it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
I've only had it rip off a couple of times when top-roping (when the belayor's end of the rope has tangled with my body / harness). I've never had it come off otherwise. I have, however, found my biners crossloaded in the past at times when I really didn't want to take my attention away from what I was doing (tricky rappel or belaying during a tense moment).
To each his own. I like it and know several people who also like it, too. But I also know people who hate it.
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acorneau
Jun 8, 2010, 1:17 AM
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Petzl Am'D Triact locker and Reverso 3.
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mtnkid85
Jun 8, 2010, 3:21 AM
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What!? No Petzl William yet?
William and BD Guide
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climbingtrash
Jun 8, 2010, 4:13 AM
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A Munter on a big pear shaped Bean-er.
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chrisJoosse
Jun 8, 2010, 4:36 AM
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DMM big Boa (28kn major, 12 Minor, 10 open)
ATC Guide
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Alpine07
Jun 8, 2010, 4:37 AM
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climbingtrash wrote: A Munter on a big pear shaped Bean-er.
Yeah!
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jt512
Jun 8, 2010, 4:44 AM
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TheProducer wrote: Whats everyones favorite belay carabiner? and belay device?
Everyone's favorite belay carabiner is the Petzl Attaché, and everyone's favorite belay device is the GriGri.
Jay
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kobaz
Jun 8, 2010, 4:54 AM
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jt512 wrote: TheProducer wrote: Whats everyones favorite belay carabiner? and belay device? Everyone's favorite belay carabiner is the Petzl Attaché, and everyone's favorite belay device is the GriGri. Jay
But but....
I like the atc guide... and the rock exotica pirate tri-lock... aarrrr
Edited to add...
But in all seriousness.... I prefer the foot belay
(This post was edited by kobaz on Jun 8, 2010, 5:01 AM)
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hafilax
Jun 8, 2010, 4:56 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: HERA Petzl Attache The Belay master kind of sucks for multipitch. You have to lock it to close the plastic doodad which is a real PITA on the back of the harness. I use it on multi-pitch routes all the time (I really like it's non-cross-loading selling point). I don't lock it when it sits on my harness, and it doesn't get in the way at all. I had the plastic thing get ripped off a couple of times. I thought it was a great idea at first but now I think it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I've only had it rip off a couple of times when top-roping (when the belayor's end of the rope has tangled with my body / harness). I've never had it come off otherwise. I have, however, found my biners crossloaded in the past at times when I really didn't want to take my attention away from what I was doing (tricky rappel or belaying during a tense moment). To each his own. I like it and know several people who also like it, too. But I also know people who hate it.
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mattsheat
Jun 8, 2010, 11:52 AM
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Trango b52 with Petzl amD
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granite_grrl
Jun 8, 2010, 12:15 PM
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kobaz wrote: jt512 wrote: TheProducer wrote: Whats everyones favorite belay carabiner? and belay device? Everyone's favorite belay carabiner is the Petzl Attaché, and everyone's favorite belay device is the GriGri. Jay But but.... I like the atc guide... and the rock exotica pirate tri-lock... aarrrr
Sorry, But I'm afraid that Jay is right about this one.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 8, 2010, 12:17 PM
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hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: hafilax wrote: HERA Petzl Attache The Belay master kind of sucks for multipitch. You have to lock it to close the plastic doodad which is a real PITA on the back of the harness. I use it on multi-pitch routes all the time (I really like it's non-cross-loading selling point). I don't lock it when it sits on my harness, and it doesn't get in the way at all. I had the plastic thing get ripped off a couple of times. I thought it was a great idea at first but now I think it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I've only had it rip off a couple of times when top-roping (when the belayor's end of the rope has tangled with my body / harness). I've never had it come off otherwise. I have, however, found my biners crossloaded in the past at times when I really didn't want to take my attention away from what I was doing (tricky rappel or belaying during a tense moment). To each his own. I like it and know several people who also like it, too. But I also know people who hate it. How many broken belay biners have you heard of? I may be way off base but I've never heard of one.
actually, I'm much more paranoid about the gate coming unscrewed when crossloaded.
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shoo
Jun 8, 2010, 2:10 PM
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Regular old Petzl Attache for all my tube-type belaying. Beefy rounded bar stock, keylock, small, and not too heavy. Doesn't get much better than that, though I'm wearing some serious grooves in mine now. Typically use an ATC-guide as my tuber of choice.
DMM Phantom screw locker for cinch / grigri, though it matters less here. The rope doesn't touch the 'biner, so anything that doesn't crossload works.
Thoughts on other belay 'biner I've at least played with (or own) below:
Attache 3D. Mostly crap. Yes, it's really light. Yes, it has a nice nose system. Yes, it glows like chernobyl. However, riddle me this: the benefits to lightness are really when hauling up multi-pitch. Typically, I want a round-stock 'biner in case I want to bring up a second in auto-block. See where I'm going here? Plus, at the rate at which I wear grooves in a belay biner, I feel like I'm going to go right through the bottom of the I in the I beam. Not good.
DMM belay master 2: Picked this one up. Used twice, been hanging on my shelf since. I liked the concept. Keeps everything nice and tucked away, no crossloading, one extra check to make sure my belay device is locked. However, it's such a PITA on my harness that I'm scrapping it. You have two choices: leave the plastic keeper swinging out like Geronimo, or lock the gate and shut the plastic. Plus, that damn plastic piece gets in the way of everything. When I clip a belay device to my gear loops, I do it nose-up, right? Normally, the belay device falls to the borrom. With this thing, that only happens if the plastic gate is open, and I pull the belay device to the gate side. PITA.
Petzl Williams: Pretty decent. However, way too big and heavy for my taste as a belay biner.
BD rocklock: Meh. Don't like 'em, but can't put my finger on why. Cheap gate construction, awkward shape. Dunno.
Metolius element: Blatant copy of Attache, and I mean that as a good thing. More competition is good.
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hafilax
Jun 8, 2010, 2:34 PM
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+1 on the round stock biner being far superior for autoblocking off the anchor.
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