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EDDY as a solo belay and its camming action DANGERS (?):
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Dorian
Oct 2, 2008, 11:19 PM
Views: 37911
Registered: Sep 28, 2008
Posts: 5
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Hello folks,
I have seen that many people are using the Edelrid Eddy as a belay device for leading rope solo. I have got one and I have done my own tests repetively. I have two major safety concerns:
1) The camming unit will not engage until the rope is getting fed through at a minimum speed (similarly to the Silent Partner), speed which may vary depending on rope diameter and condition. Is this SPEED smaller or larger for the Silent Partner? How reliable is Eddy's engagement at a certain speed?
2) The moving unit of the Eddy's camming mechanism basically presses the rope against the inner wall of the device when it engages. The catch relies on frictioning the rope between the "jaws" of the cam in a way very similar to the Solo-Aid. However, unlike in the Solo-Aid, this moving unit is VERY NARROW in length and potentially can damage or even cut the rope in a severe fall situation. Has anybody measured under what forces (rope tension) will this happen ? Has anybody tested this set up with a weight over 80 Kg AND a fall factor in the range 1.5--2 ? For knots we know they reduce the rope breaking strength by some percentage - what is the corresponding percentage for the Eddy and other belay devices used in solo leading ?
Unfortunately no company provides such infos.
All comments welcome.
Dorian
(This post was edited by Dorian on Oct 2, 2008, 11:32 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by Dorian
() on Oct 2, 2008, 11:25 PM
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Post edited by Dorian
() on Oct 2, 2008, 11:30 PM
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Post edited by Dorian
() on Oct 2, 2008, 11:32 PM
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