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Re: [petit_suisse] EDDY as a solo belay and its camming action DANGERS (?):
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Dorian
Oct 14, 2008, 10:27 PM
Views: 37250
Registered: Sep 28, 2008
Posts: 5
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I would not either... seriously!
The responsiveness of the Silent Partner in locking is far better and more reliable. Moreover, the Eddy locks all the time (not allowing the rope to feed) when the free side of the rope weighs down more than 4-6 meters. This means that one has to carry the rope in a stuff-sack or have many small loops hanging from the harness. But more importantly (as you say) the locking mechanism of the Eddy is not desingned to engage by rope speed and it cannot be trusted. What if you fall smoothly (right after clipping = no shock) at a very smooth and low angle slab? Reader, you want my advice? Test, re-test and test again before you start soloing with the Eddy or even take the belaying hand off the rope. If you do get convinced that it works come back and tell us.
(This post was edited by Dorian on Oct 14, 2008, 10:59 PM)
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Post edited by Dorian
() on Oct 14, 2008, 10:59 PM
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