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zozo
Oct 12, 2004, 5:48 PM
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Since last weekend went so well Im looking to move off the wind tower and get on some longer moderate routes. What are your favorites?
I think I could lead pitches of rewritten and the bastille crack but I dont think Im ready to lead the whole climbs. Any good two to three pitch routes?
I need to buy a guide book.
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mbg
Oct 12, 2004, 5:59 PM
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Check out the Swanson Arete on Redgarden (5.6, ~4 pitches, start with P1 of Rewritten) for a long but somewhat loose moderate, Star Wars on Peanuts (5.8, 2 pitches) if you are comfortable with hand jams, Your Basic Lieback also on Peanuts (5.6 w/ a fun 5.7 line on the left for P2), and there are a few good 1 pitch moderates on the West Ridge like Mescaline and Washington Irving that are worth the hike.
Have fun!
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killclimbz
Oct 12, 2004, 6:04 PM
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Do the first 3 pitches of Ruper. They are absolute classics. If you feel good continue up the last three pitches. Otherwise, rap off.
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petsfed
Oct 12, 2004, 6:05 PM
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The first pitch of the Bastille Crack is interesting, but not too difficult. The direct start to Calypso felt harder to me. The third pitch, if any, will give you the most trouble as you've got moderate difficulty coupled with exposure. That pitch is vertical all the way. Go with somebody who's done the route before and you'll cruise it no problem.
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cagdbikeclimb
Oct 12, 2004, 6:15 PM
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In reply to: I think I could lead pitches of rewritten and the bastille crack but I dont think Im ready to lead the whole climbs. Any good two to three pitch routes?
Swanson Arete (3 pitches, 5.5) but you'll need to lead the first pitch of Rewritten (runout 7), Great Zot (well-protected 8+ and the crux can be easily skipped), or do the West Chimney (5 but yucky).
Some nice single-pitch stuff on the West Ridge:
Ice Nine (6)
Washington Irving (6)
Duh Dihedral (6)
Dr Michael Solar (7, short, slightly overhanging)
Mesca-Line (7, best pitch at that grade in Eldo, in my opinion)
Verschneidung (7) is a good two-pitch route on West Ridge. It's atypical for Eldo since the second pitch involves actual crack climbing. I haven't done it but I hear it's a little polished. Knight's Move (also a 7 and also on West Ridge) is a good three-pitch route that most people lead as two pitches. The top of the first pitch is a little loose.
There's a very short route on Rincon wall called N.I.C. It's only about 40 feet long but it's one of the nicer 5s out there.
If you can lead 8 then some other possibilities are:
Long John Wall (8, four pitches, West Ridge)
Gonzo (8, two pitches, Cadillac Crag)
V3 (sustained 8, one long pitch, Cadillac)
Over and Out (8, two pitches but you can bail after first pitch, Rincon)
Don't let anyone sandbag you into leading The Bulge on Redgarden. It's a 7 but the gear is very sparse.
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killclimbz
Oct 12, 2004, 6:16 PM
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Long John Wall on the West Ridge is a lot of fun. Doing the Over and out first pitch (5.8) and Over the Hill 2nd (5.9) is also a blast.
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calamity_chk
Oct 12, 2004, 6:26 PM
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there's a good book called "serious play" that's dedicated to classic moderates on the front range. it's a fun book to own - you can get a copy at neptune.
amber
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killclimbz
Oct 12, 2004, 6:30 PM
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In reply to: Don't led anyone sandbag you into leading The Bulge on Redgarden. It's a 7 but the gear is very sparse.
Actually don't let anyone sandbag you into following the third pitch on the Bulge...
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 12, 2004, 6:44 PM
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A lot of good suggestions already made here. Serious Play is a nice book to have, particularly if you want a lot of beta (pretty much gives you a blow-by-blow of each route listed).
The lower part of Touch and Go (8+) is also an excellent moderate (can be done in two short pitches or one long one). If you can handle that then you can definitely lead anything on Rewritten.
The Bulge is definitely high on the pucker factor if you are leading anywhere near your limit. It's a cool route, but has some serious run-outs on easy ground.
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dlintz
Oct 12, 2004, 6:52 PM
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If you're up near Washington Irving try the first pitch of Break on Through. One very protectable 5.8 move near the beginning otherwise 5.6ish the rest of the way. The second pitch is 10+.
d.
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mother_sheep
Oct 12, 2004, 8:06 PM
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What a bunch of snadbaggers you guys are!!!! :lol: ZOZO. . .I think I know what you're after. . .follow cagedbikeclimb's thread.
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timstich
Oct 12, 2004, 8:52 PM
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In reply to: Verschneidung (7) is a good two-pitch route on West Ridge. It's atypical for Eldo since the second pitch involves actual crack climbing. I haven't done it but I hear it's a little polished.
I've led it twice now and didn't find it polished. Towards the top of the crack, your feet on the left hand face sort of peter out, but you can jam your feet in the crack at any point as it is. #2 and #3 Camelots fit well. I spent about 45 minutes getting one of my cams unstuck on the traverse left after the crack. Heh.
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sharpie
Oct 12, 2004, 8:56 PM
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In reply to: What a bunch of snadbaggers you guys are!!!! :lol: ZOZO. . .I think I know what you're after. . .follow cagedbikeclimb's thread.
Sandbagging is a tradition at Eldo.
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nthusiastj
Oct 12, 2004, 9:24 PM
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Dave, I have been cranking through all of the Eldo mods I can lately. I can't really suggest anything really doable if you don't feel good about leading all of Rewritten. Looking back over the last year I consider it pretty chill and unscary. What I can say is that all of the routes suggested so far are great and classics.
I pretty much just sucked it up and started leading 8's. As long as the gear was good I just cranked on. I got scared alot, but came out stronger. I'm on the 9's now and feel the same way.
A good place to check on route beta and gear suggestions is ClimbingBoulder.com. People post what they thought and give the route a rating. If people rate it a soft 8 then jump on it. Just pull up all the 7's and 8's in eldo and start ticking!
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zozo
Oct 12, 2004, 9:31 PM
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Hey Jeremy,
What I mean by that is that I would just want to do those routes with someone with at least equal preferably more experience than I do. Im sure technically I could lead the pitches.
Up for anything?
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climbsomething
Oct 12, 2004, 9:43 PM
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climbsomething moved this thread from US - Mountain States to Regional Discussions.
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numbnut
Oct 18, 2004, 2:30 PM
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Gambit on Shirtail peak is quite good. Or try Star Wars on Peanuts wall. :D
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pt
Oct 20, 2004, 1:56 PM
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Mescaline is good and you can TR the first pitch of Pony express from the same anchor
Mr. Natural is a good crack to try and break into 5.8
The first pitch of the Bulge has anchors at the top
Knight's Move will get you to the anchors on top of Chockstone
Icarus is only 5.6 but will get you on a bigger route with some run-outs
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