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zwillia1
May 17, 2009, 8:35 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2007
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Hey Everyone,
So, I'm headed up to North Conway next week to camp out on a spot of property a friend owns. It'll be three of us staying on the land, looking to do some climbing. Here is the dilemma. We'll be meeting up with two people from Western Maine who have never climbed before. I myself am I pretty strong sport climber (12+), and the other two campers are both 5.10ers.
From the research I've done, it seems like the Saco Crag or Jockey Cap would meet our needs nicely. I've got no problem rocking the TR for a day, and clearly that's what we need for the new gals. Saco sounds pretty good, being as it seems like its short, less intimidating, and sounds like a popular TR spot. Jockey looks to have some decent bouldering to keep the strong occupied and has nice easy routes.
This is all coming from internet browsing and stuff. Can anyone give me some more personal thoughts on these places, or others around N. Conway or east-ward, towards/in Maine? Any favorite crags with potential for group enjoyment?
Thanks in advance everyone.
Be Well,
Zach
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altelis
May 17, 2009, 10:17 PM
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zwillia1 wrote: ... Can anyone give me some more personal thoughts on these places, or others around N. Conway or east-ward, towards/in Maine? Any favorite crags with potential for group enjoyment? Thanks in advance everyone. Be Well, Zach
How 'bout Shag crag?
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zwillia1
May 18, 2009, 12:40 AM
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Haha, as epic as Shagg looks, I think we're doing that on Thursday, the day without the new climbers. I believe it has a 9 and a 10, and then stuff for me, hence, not really an everyman crag. However, it looks SOOOO good. :)
Zach
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tomcat
May 18, 2009, 12:48 AM
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Jockeys Cap has a great 5.6 crack with several bolted anchors available once you do it.It would be good for beginners,and there are some hard sport routes just around to the right,in the 11-12 range.
For total beginners Square Ledge in Pinkham Notch is very nice and great surroundings,but people usually beginner lead there.The toproping is not as easy.
Saco Crag doesn't really have much for beginners.There are a few good routes there,but short.Mostly nines and up.No where near as good with nOObs.
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zwillia1
May 18, 2009, 8:25 PM
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Sounds like Jockey might be the spot then... What's the best beat for toproping? We are perfectly capable of anchoring off of trees, but we have no trad gear what so ever. I'm assuming that 5.6 crack isn't bolted, so is there an easier way to the top? Maybe like a 8 or 9? Or is it going to be hiking to the top and rapping? Also- anywhere to pick up a guide?
Thanks again,
Zach
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jrathfon
May 18, 2009, 8:44 PM
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Registered: Jun 5, 2006
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The only guide that will cover that stuff would be the Webster guide Rock Climbs of the White Mountains East. You can find that at IME directly down town. You can ask around for crags while in there as well. I've heard whispers of attitash crag being a good sport area, though there is a river crossing? The north end of cathedral can by top-roped, lots of nice cracks 5.5-10, though it's usually a shit show on the weekend. Barber wall (upper left wall) of cathedral?
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tomcat
May 18, 2009, 8:50 PM
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Let's see,Yes there is an easy walk up.You are going to park either at the Jockey's Cap motel,or across the street in the strip mall,or a little further East in a dirt lot.Most paths lead to the cliff.The front side has a leadable,short 5.8,and several burly 5.11-5.12(I think) clip ups,again short.Work your way around to the West side,which is a long wall,maybe 200 feet.At the uphill end you can scramble to the top.There is a pretty cool mountain sighter,like a compass with the surrounding mountain profiles so you can identify everything in sight.
The 5.6 crack is obvious,it's almost the only trad lead on the wall,maybe tad stiff for a 5.6 leader,but great for toproping.It has a two bolt anchor.The crack trends left,so the anchor can be used to toprope a 5.9ish face.Off to either side are other anchors set ups with bolts.If your nOObs are,well,total nOObs you may want a directional part way down the crack.Takes all kinda gear.
Best data for the place is through Rockfax,if it's still happening.Jockeys has one of the better concentrations of bouldering anywhere around here.
Have fun !!
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