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awilson86


Aug 28, 2006, 4:52 PM
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climbing in england
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im gonna be in england the first part of next year. (jan-june) wanted to know what was around west sussex for climbing. i tried checkin out the routes but i couldnt figure out what was easy/quick to get to. exact location is holmsted manor in west sussex.


darkside


Aug 28, 2006, 6:37 PM
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Re: climbing in england [In reply to]
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Try http://www.UKclimbing.com to find out better info on the climbing there. There are links to their sister site rockfax.com that has some excellent route info and search tools. From what I know, the climbing around there is on softer sandstone and local ethics eschew the use of metal pro, leading to most people either top-roping or soloing the routes. I also think many people travel to other areas for the weekend such as Wales or the Peak District. The Peak is known for it's Gritstone which I'd definitely reccommend checking out. It's not known as God's own rock for nothing.
A car makes it easier to move around but the public transport system is more extensive and better developed (though locally maligned) than most north american transit systems.
Enjoy the climbing wherever you climb but the beer is better up north and they give better head too :roll:

Edited to add - On the beer of course :lol:


Partner heiko


Aug 28, 2006, 8:10 PM
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heiko moved this thread [In reply to]
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heiko moved this thread from International to Euro Freaks.


sungam


Aug 28, 2006, 8:21 PM
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Get to the peaks.
Get on the grit.
Get some tape.

-Magnus


keinangst


Aug 28, 2006, 8:41 PM
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I researched this a while back and found quite a few small sandstone crags in that area (more specifically, the East Sussex/Kent border area). I think southernsandstone.co.uk would be a good resource for you. A lot depends on if you have car or railpass. If you're looking for overnight or weekend trips, just about the whole country is doable by rail.


awilson86


Aug 28, 2006, 8:56 PM
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for the most part im looking for nice boulder areas i can go and come back from in 1 day. im going to school there for 6 months, so i am pretty pressed for weight and space. gonna bring my boots and my harness but probably not a rope or any protection.... ouch hu... anyway. mostly boulder areas that are close on public transit. however, there will be a few 3 day weekends in which case i want to go up to scotland or ireland and climb abit. just want to check out the country really.


dynoho


Aug 28, 2006, 9:30 PM
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Re: climbing in England [In reply to]
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I make annual trips to England, but I have never had the time to climb there. On my next trip, I was hoping to avoid the site seeing and get to the more important stuff. I was wondering, is it standard to climb with one or two ropes in that neck of the woods (the UK in general)?

-Jeff


darkside


Aug 29, 2006, 1:31 AM
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In reply to:
I make annual trips to England, but I have never had the time to climb there. On my next trip, I was hoping to avoid the site seeing and get to the more important stuff. I was wondering, is it standard to climb with one or two ropes in that neck of the woods (the UK in general)?

-Jeff
While the use of double ropes is more common in the UK than north america, there are still lots of people using single ropes.

As for what bouldering is accessible by bus, that will depend on local bus services. You may be able to post such questions in UK BB forums but you'll be able to find out more when you get there by asking at the local bus station. Unlike NA transit systems that often stop at city limits, you'll be glad to know that although sometimes not as frequent as you may like, there are buses that go out around the "countryside" and have stops seemingly in the middle of nowhere.
Remember that folks over there often refer to the frequent stop transit systems as buses, while intercity services (Greyhound types) are referred to as coaches. Also sometimes the trains are a more frequent service than buses depending on where you're going.


cameltoe


Sep 13, 2006, 6:20 PM
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Hi,
So I hail from the London area, though now live stateside in DC. Anyway. as to climbing in the UK in that area, you are either looking at Sandstone, or sea-cliff/quarry climbing.
So there are quarries (Sport) on the south coast in striking distance or sea-cliff's (for trad). Sandstone is basically top-roping - this is because the rock is fragile, the non-use of metal protection is not to protect the rock - basically it would not work, it would break out of the rock and you would fall. The best advice I could give thought woud be to join a local climbing club. Personally i could recommend the nearby Croydon Mountaineering Club, but you will probably have one closer.
Bouldering is best in the UK in the Gritstone areas, sadly these are a long way from where you will be. jan-march it is likely to be too cold/wet to climb much of anything.. particularly southern sandstone.
All the best in bliighty.
lhfj
p.s. guidebooks: either rockfax for swanage/portland (sea-cliffs/quarries) or 'Southern Sandstone' for the sandstone outcrops.
p.p.s. if you want any more details/thoughts/contacts drop me a pm


mayoyo


Oct 29, 2008, 11:36 PM
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Re: [cameltoe] climbing in england [In reply to]
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any good climbing out by cambridge, i'll be visiting next summer? if not, anything good within train distance?


sungam


Oct 30, 2008, 5:16 AM
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Haha. Good one. CLimbing in Cambridge.
I'll just say google it and don't get caught.


limeydave


Nov 5, 2008, 7:03 PM
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mayoyo wrote:
any good climbing out by cambridge, i'll be visiting next summer? if not, anything good within train distance?

you're a couple of hours from sheffield up there - make the pilgrimage and touch the hallowed grit
amen


mayoyo


Nov 9, 2008, 8:06 AM
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oi! thanks very much. i appreciate it.


gritstoner


Nov 9, 2008, 7:51 PM
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oh yeah, make sure you head up to sheffield and climb the grit


mayoyo


Nov 10, 2008, 9:23 PM
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any must do's? you see, i don't really know the area.


gritstoner


Nov 11, 2008, 8:19 AM
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depends on what you are happy leading, but a trip to stanage or froggatt would be highly recomended. if you want the easier end of the scale baslow edge is fantastic.


mayoyo


Nov 12, 2008, 11:05 PM
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any good guidebooks for these areas?


k.l.k


Nov 13, 2008, 12:34 AM
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Cambridge: No cliffs. no boulders. No gyms. Walk the old Leslie Stephen's grind out the Green Man for a pint and some decent pub food. Have a bunch of pints, and wait for dark:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/...snaith/dp/090667283X

http://www.insectnation.org/.../nightclimbers/html/


sungam


Nov 13, 2008, 1:11 AM
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Re: [k.l.k] climbing in england [In reply to]
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there is a gym in cambridge. It's owned by the uni. Talk to them and you can often use it.


gritstoner


Nov 13, 2008, 6:26 AM
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mayoyo wrote:
any good guidebooks for these areas?

for the peak district (i.e gritstone) any of the BMC guide books.
search for crag name.


Lake district (bit further north) any of the FRCC Guide books.
search for valley name


(This post was edited by gritstoner on Nov 13, 2008, 6:26 AM)


sungam


Nov 13, 2008, 4:04 PM
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whales = CC
Scotland= SMC.


mayoyo


Nov 14, 2008, 3:38 PM
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so . . . i'll have to travel. any good things to do along the way? or maybe some good places to have some fun?


sungam


Nov 14, 2008, 5:11 PM
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mayoyo wrote:
so . . . i'll have to travel. any good things to do along the way? or maybe some good places to have some fun?
Swing by Manchester, that place'll leave a smile on your face you won't EVER lose!


k.l.k


Nov 15, 2008, 12:31 AM
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sungam wrote:
there is a gym in cambridge.

are you kidding? have you seen it?

he's better off poaching king's chapel.


sungam


Nov 15, 2008, 2:10 AM
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k.l.k wrote:
he's better off poaching king's chapel.
STFU n00b!
First rule of cambridge, you don't talks about tEh clymbzing!!!!

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