Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [Jayboflavin04] Noob intro & questions. I READ THE FAQ: Edit Log




jmvc


Sep 15, 2009, 9:33 PM

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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 647

Re: [Jayboflavin04] Noob intro & questions. I READ THE FAQ
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Yep, the munter is free, it stops hard, and as qwert mentioned locks off with the rope in more or less any position, but there is a reason why people don't use it all the time. If you tie one on a biner and mess around with it for a bit it will be quite obvious that it's stopping power relies partly on the rope biting itself, which will wear out your sheath faster than other devices.

Tube style devices such as atc's, reverso3s, etc, (I actually like the dirt cheap CAMP one quite a lot) are easier on the rope.

I like grigris, and you certain things with them easier than with tube devices (boinking and ascending rope, which is a PITA freehanging with an atc), and you can use them as ascenders and even (not recommended by manufacturer, and certainly not recommended by me for a beginner) self belay devices. However, there are actually more ways to mess up and drop someone with a grigri than an atc.

I've only belayed about 5 pitches with a cinch, and I was impressed by the feeding and taking, but had minor issues with unblocking it while loaded. This is probably due to me using it wrong, as many people seem to love it.

I belayed with fig8 exclusively for about 6 months and learned quite a few different ways to rig it that make for quite a versatile device, since some of my first climbing partners were a couple off 40 yo that had been climbing all their life with 8s (had a collection of them near worn through) and didn't want to know nothing about atc's or god forbid grigris, and while it is a perfectly safe belay device in competent hands, the atc is more suitable for your purposes.

Edit: On the reread I think I come across as very harsh on probably my most used belay device, the grigri. I'm not saying you shouldn't get one, just don't asume that because it says its autolocking, you barely have to know how to belay. I see that all too often. Although you come across as plenty clever enough in you posts to not try blatantly stupid stunts.


(This post was edited by jmvc on Sep 15, 2009, 9:38 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jmvc () on Sep 15, 2009, 9:38 PM


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