Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [desertwanderer81] Stretchy terminology: Edit Log




ptlong


Jun 3, 2010, 7:08 PM

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Registered: Oct 4, 2007
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Stretchy terminology
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
Most of the energy goes into a number of places. Bouncing around after the fall, elongating the spring of the rope, permanetly deformation of the core of the rope, and the friction between the rope and the carabiners/rock (especially the carabiner that is actually catching you).

Let's say for one moment we look at the top most carabiner. Let's assume that you hit 8kN of force during a decent fall and the sliding coefficient of friction for the rope's sheath and the aluminium is .2.

At this moment, that carabiner would be resisting with 1.6 kN of force. This is equal to a 360 lbs of dampaning force. This is why you do not bounce a LOT when you fall on a climbing rope. There is a ton of friction in your system.

The internal friction in the rope itself absorbs very little of the actual energy of a fall.

In a UIAA drop test there is very little rope that slides over the top carabiner. And yet damping is still observed in the system, with roughly half the energy dissipated with each bounce (including the first).

Jay is right that the rope absorbs energy, not force. But he is wrong in suggesting that nearly all of it is in the form of strain energy.


[edited for brevity]


(This post was edited by ptlong on Jun 3, 2010, 8:21 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ptlong () on Jun 3, 2010, 8:21 PM


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