Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
Anyone else lift weights here?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


Tactix23


Sep 15, 2009, 12:28 AM
Post #1 of 231 (20935 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Anyone else lift weights here?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm looking into getting back into the gym, I had stopped when I decided I wanted to climb frequently. I would like some opinions on creating a workout plan for days opposite climbing days.Cool

Now climbing is all pull motion from the shoulders and back primarily. So I would want to mainly focus on push in the gym correct?

I know chest is barely used as well as triceps so I know those need great focus as well as legs.

I rock climb Tuesday, Thursday, maybe Friday and maybe sunday. So I'm thinking Saturday and sunday should be off days for sure. I can always take a day off if I feel overworked. So that leaves me Monday, Wednesday and Friday (if I don't rock climb)

Any opinions? I'm thinking chest and tris monday, legs and shoulders (shoulder exercises will be done in a fashion that I am using little traps as possible) and friday maybe arms or something since I won't always be going.

I'm not looking to gain massive muscle or weight. Just looking to add on some lean meat.

Thanks!


(This post was edited by Tactix23 on Sep 15, 2009, 12:28 AM)


testpilot


Sep 15, 2009, 12:53 AM
Post #2 of 231 (20918 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2009
Posts: 25

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

You may consider looking into Mountain Athlete or Crossfit (Crossfit.com; Mountainathlete.com) as an alternative to actual lifting weights. I do Crossfit and find that it is much better for me because it focuses more on functional strength rather than larger muscles (heavy). These programs will focus on core strength, balance and power - all of which are a huge help in climbing. In my very humble opinion lifting a barbell or working a nautilus machine will indeed make you stronger but its not that functional strength you need for climbing. If you still want to get into a gym then bodybuilding.com is a pretty good, knowledgeable resource.

Good Luck


Tactix23


Sep 15, 2009, 1:02 AM
Post #3 of 231 (20907 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [testpilot] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would like to hit the gym for purely physique reasons. I do stuff at home like planks and wall sits etc for core strength. But hitting some weights would be nice to maintain size as climbing will only tone me not get me bigger.

Bodybuilding is okay but there are a lot of noobs on there (not saying I'm an expert or anything). Actually one of the best lifting forums is on offtopic.com but they are HUGE elitist douches on that site.

I was just looking to hear from someone who both climbs and works out for physique. Btw, heavy weight doesn't mean bigger muscles. Olympic lifters aren't nearly as big as some bodybuilders because they work more on explosive movement then slow and controlled for size


caughtinside


Sep 15, 2009, 1:22 AM
Post #4 of 231 (20885 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

How much ya bench?


therat


Sep 15, 2009, 1:57 AM
Post #5 of 231 (20858 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2005
Posts: 64

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Only time I lift weights is when I have to take a piss...


Partner angry


Sep 15, 2009, 2:15 AM
Post #6 of 231 (20837 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [therat] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (5 ratings)  
Can't Post

therat wrote:
Only time I lift weights is when I have to take a piss...

That's funny, the only time I lift weights is also when you have to take a piss.


Ya, I'm confused too.


el_layclimber


Sep 15, 2009, 2:31 AM
Post #7 of 231 (20824 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2006
Posts: 550

Re: [angry] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry wrote:
therat wrote:
Only time I lift weights is when I have to take a piss...

That's funny, the only time I lift weights is also when you have to take a piss.


Ya, I'm confused too.

Now that is a five-star post.


whipper


Sep 15, 2009, 2:50 AM
Post #8 of 231 (20809 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey, I lift to maintain how I look on a regular basis, it does help that I work at a gym.
I also lift all major muscle groups and dont let climbing interfere with my back and/or Bicep work outs. It will help prevent injuries, especially in the shoulders and being strong is healthy all the way around I think. WIll it help climbing, prob not. a few years ago I was 196 lbs, and benched 325. I only climbed up to 5.11 at the time. I have slimed down to 185 and stil dont climb much harder. Climbing helps climbing, lifting helps with the ladies. DIff sports. It feels good to me to be strong, thats really why I lift.


pfwein


Sep 15, 2009, 4:10 AM
Post #9 of 231 (20772 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 8, 2009
Posts: 353

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you're determined to build your pecs, you may want to think about dips as that could have have some cross over to manteling.

I became a better climber when I pretty much stopped lifting weights and applied the time/energy I would have spent lifting, climbing. I still do some some push ups and dips, which seems to maintain muscle mass--that's probably a bad thing but some habits are hard to break.

If I could live my life over, I probably wouldn't have spent nearly as much time weight-lifting as I did, and I certainly wouldn't recommend anything other than the old do-a-little-work-for-antagonistic-muscles-to-avoid-huge-imbalances if you want to improve your climbing.


Tactix23


Sep 15, 2009, 5:11 PM
Post #10 of 231 (20676 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [pfwein] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

pfwein wrote:
If you're determined to build your pecs, you may want to think about dips as that could have have some cross over to manteling.

I became a better climber when I pretty much stopped lifting weights and applied the time/energy I would have spent lifting, climbing. I still do some some push ups and dips, which seems to maintain muscle mass--that's probably a bad thing but some habits are hard to break.

If I could live my life over, I probably wouldn't have spent nearly as much time weight-lifting as I did, and I certainly wouldn't recommend anything other than the old do-a-little-work-for-antagonistic-muscles-to-avoid-huge-imbalances if you want to improve your climbing.

I'm not worried about lifting weights having a horrible effect on my climbing. Mostly because I don't plan on gaining anything but lean muscle (by using a proper diet) and I also don't plan on eating enough protein to get huge. I keep it within the 100-150 range at most.

To be honest, I just personally feel I have shit chest genetics as when I did work out, that was by far the hardest area to gain size in. Now I'm starting to look a little silly that my shoulders are gaining great size from rock climbing. I would like to square out my chest and also work my legs and triceps which get neglected.

Chest and tris I'm thinking

incline/flat bench cable pullovers, incline flys, dips, tricep extension

And legs

Squats, lunges, straight legged deadlifts, calf raises


(This post was edited by Tactix23 on Sep 15, 2009, 5:13 PM)


scotty1974


Sep 15, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #11 of 231 (20647 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 31, 2006
Posts: 248

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

One aspect to remember is what type of body frame do you have. Are you prone to bulk up quick, lean or gangly? I'm wide and very thick up top, with a decent ape index, so I stick to more dumbells with full range of motion as opposed to powerlifting.

Also do you need to get bigger? I was about 190lbs. 5'8sih, so I stopped lifting heavy weights as I was getting a little Hulky. I couldn't see my feet since my boobs were in the way! Now I switched over more to interval training ala' crossfit, gymjones and mountain athlete, focusing on alot of pushups, dips and pullups.

You DO NOT want to focus only on your back, unless you want to look like one of the hunchback gym monkeys that you see running around the climbing gym. You need to balance out your body or you'll be cruzing for injuries. If you do alot of pulls, then work the chest and front delts to balance it out and avoid pulling your joints of out wack. I like to also include some yoga and some overhead pulls to help stretch out the chest cavity to balance it out with a strong upper back.

In addition there is no such thing as spot weight reduction, so if you want to build overall strength and induce weight loss, work the whole body...legs and all.

And of course...FOCUS ON YOUR CORE!! Involve it in every workout you do. Not only will it help you build climbing strength, but will help you avoid injury.


armsrforclimbing


Sep 15, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #12 of 231 (20647 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 214

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have had an excellent experience with Crossfit. Check it out at http://www.crossfit.com. The workouts are intense and varied, and you get great results. Plus you don't need to reinvent the wheel, its all done for you. Oh, and the workout info is all free, but you can join a Crossfit Gym to get the basics down.


armsrforclimbing


Sep 15, 2009, 5:40 PM
Post #13 of 231 (20643 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 214

Re: [testpilot] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I should have read your post first Testpilot. You are right on about the functional strength, and the physique follows.


pfwein


Sep 15, 2009, 5:56 PM
Post #14 of 231 (20631 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 8, 2009
Posts: 353

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

OK, perhaps your plan will work for you. I'm someone who did put on chest muscle on fairly easily, which may seem like a good thing, but it doesn't help climbing. If you're a "hard gainer," I see where you're coming from, sort of. But remember that many/most high level climbers are stick thin, so don't sweat it.

A few more comments: it sounds like you're determined to go to a weightlifting gym and that's what you should do if you want, but body weight exercises may be a good alternative. I use the little push-up handles (like Perfect Push Up but not as fancy), and especially if you elevate your legs, you can essentially achieve the same benefit as bench pressing moderate weights. Throw in some dips I do at the neighborhood playground, things like L-sits for core (also use the push up handles), and I feel pretty good to go.

As far as weightlifting for legs: I recall reading an old Horst book where he strongly recommended against doing that. Seeing as how I hated doing squats, that was easy advice for me to follow.Smile


sidepull


Sep 15, 2009, 7:10 PM
Post #15 of 231 (20600 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix, I think you're not going to get very good advice here. This is a technique and training forum and what you seem to want is physique training which is a very different focus.

That said, I would be surprised if you didn't see significant improvement in your "areas of weakness" by doing crossfit for 2 months.

Realize though that you have to carefully integrate training for climbing (gaining climbing strength and technique) with any sort of cross-training for climbing (injury prevention and muscle balance) otherwise you'll likely plateau and get frustrated from some form of over training.


BenKenobi


Sep 15, 2009, 7:28 PM
Post #16 of 231 (20588 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 29, 2008
Posts: 20

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix23 wrote:

To be honest, I just personally feel I have shit chest genetics as when I did work out, that was by far the hardest area to gain size in. Now I'm starting to look a little silly that my shoulders are gaining great size from rock climbing. I would like to square out my chest and also work my legs and triceps which get neglected.

Chest and tris I'm thinking

incline/flat bench cable pullovers, incline flys, dips, tricep extension

If that is your normal chest routine, then that explains why you've never made good gains. You need to do some type of compound movement, e.g., bench press. Incline press puts less stress on your rotator cuff. Any type of press will also work your triceps.

Of course, none of this has much of anything to do with climbing.


mleogrande


Sep 15, 2009, 8:06 PM
Post #17 of 231 (20572 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 6, 2009
Posts: 48

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I climb frequently and also weight train. I think it's good to keep balanced in strength between chest and back. Just make sure not to gain bulk unless you have goals outside of climbing. Also, just doing a push-up program or something like that would be good too. Just for reference, I'm a solid 5.12 climber.


pfwein


Sep 15, 2009, 8:41 PM
Post #18 of 231 (20559 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 8, 2009
Posts: 353

Re: [BenKenobi] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

BenKenobi wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:

To be honest, I just personally feel I have shit chest genetics as when I did work out, that was by far the hardest area to gain size in. Now I'm starting to look a little silly that my shoulders are gaining great size from rock climbing. I would like to square out my chest and also work my legs and triceps which get neglected.

Chest and tris I'm thinking

incline/flat bench cable pullovers, incline flys, dips, tricep extension

If that is your normal chest routine, then that explains why you've never made good gains. You need to do some type of compound movement, e.g., bench press. Incline press puts less stress on your rotator cuff. Any type of press will also work your triceps.

Of course, none of this has much of anything to do with climbing.

This is a subtle point, but I think he meant to say that he will do incline and flat bench presses, not incline and flat bench pullovers, and he just forgot a comma.
Here is my reasoning:
note he just wrote incline flys, not incline bench flys.
Therefore, when he uses bench, he probably means bench press, which is not uncommon terminology.


TerminalVelocity


Sep 15, 2009, 10:35 PM
Post #19 of 231 (20522 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [pfwein] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Your weight and lifting abilities would help to give you advice on chest and tri workouts. Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.


aerili


Sep 16, 2009, 5:42 AM
Post #20 of 231 (20456 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Attachments: bricks.gif (5.96 KB)


Tactix23


Sep 16, 2009, 2:09 PM
Post #21 of 231 (20401 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [BenKenobi] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:

If that is your normal chest routine, then that explains why you've never made good gains. You need to do some type of compound movement, e.g., bench press. Incline press puts less stress on your rotator cuff. Any type of press will also work your triceps.

Of course, none of this has much of anything to do with climbing.

1) Incline bench press is a compound.... lol

2) I said I would do both flat and incline

3) That is a stereotypical classic body building chest workout with some things missing

4) Incline bench are one of the best exercises for upper chest

5) Yes, my triceps will get worked through bench. So what?

6) Yes, this has nothing to do with climbing. Other than the fact that I want to workout specific areas that aren't worked in climbing to EVEN MY BODY out

7) Flat bench is nowhere near the best exercise for chest. It is more of a full upper body lift. Pushups, flys etc are better for chest


(This post was edited by Tactix23 on Sep 16, 2009, 2:13 PM)


Tactix23


Sep 16, 2009, 2:10 PM
Post #22 of 231 (20399 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [pfwein] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

pfwein wrote:
BenKenobi wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:

To be honest, I just personally feel I have shit chest genetics as when I did work out, that was by far the hardest area to gain size in. Now I'm starting to look a little silly that my shoulders are gaining great size from rock climbing. I would like to square out my chest and also work my legs and triceps which get neglected.

Chest and tris I'm thinking

incline/flat bench cable pullovers, incline flys, dips, tricep extension

If that is your normal chest routine, then that explains why you've never made good gains. You need to do some type of compound movement, e.g., bench press. Incline press puts less stress on your rotator cuff. Any type of press will also work your triceps.

Of course, none of this has much of anything to do with climbing.

This is a subtle point, but I think he meant to say that he will do incline and flat bench presses, not incline and flat bench pullovers, and he just forgot a comma.
Here is my reasoning:
note he just wrote incline flys, not incline bench flys.
Therefore, when he uses bench, he probably means bench press, which is not uncommon terminology.

correct. Although I'm still nervous the guy thought incline bench wasn't a compound exercise


Tactix23


Sep 16, 2009, 2:11 PM
Post #23 of 231 (20397 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
Your weight and lifting abilities would help to give you advice on chest and tri workouts. Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Squats, when done properly, are one of the best exercises you can do. It works your entire body. It also gives you great core strength (balance 300 pounds on your shoulders?) which is very applicable to climbing.

It would be stupid of me not to do squats. Unless I had a bad back or a bad knee problem


(This post was edited by Tactix23 on Sep 16, 2009, 2:12 PM)


sidepull


Sep 16, 2009, 2:41 PM
Post #24 of 231 (20380 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

priceless title [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

this thread is only going to get better*














* better = worse, which is good**














** good = bad


roy_hinkley_jr


Sep 16, 2009, 3:33 PM
Post #25 of 231 (20354 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 8, 2005
Posts: 652

Re: [sidepull] priceless title [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

As usual, leave it to the crossfitters to prove they know nothing about training or physiology. They're just as bad as the chicks that lift pink dumbbells to "tone" --only at the opposite end of the scale. A crossfitter wouldn't know true functional strength even after it hit them upside the head. It's a shame because there are a few bits of wisdom in crosstraining but they water it down with so much nonsense that the good gets overwhelmed by the dogma.


lena_chita
Moderator

Sep 16, 2009, 3:48 PM
Post #26 of 231 (11933 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

I quoted you to see that smiley getting burried again, but it doesn't come through in quote!

(O.K., I quoted you to see some sense in this thread, but I still liked that smiley!

The look on it's 'face' when the first brick hits...)


mr.tastycakes


Sep 16, 2009, 4:11 PM
Post #27 of 231 (11927 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

as i've gotten more and more into climbing, i keep cutting down on lifting weights. I aim for 4 climbing days per week, and only one lifting day which consists of:

squats (4-5 working sets; front or back squats)
clean and press (3-4 working sets), and
incline or flat bench (3-4 working sets)

one hour per week, all hard compound lifts. DONE. isolation exercises pale in comparison. lift like an athlete, not like a bodybuilder, eh? Arms day is for weenies.

Like most people, sat/sun are my outdoor climbing days, so i try to put the lifting in the middle of the week so i'm fully recovered by saturday.

and squats are one of the best exercise out there for total body strength...don't drop 'em from your routine.


scotty1974


Sep 16, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #28 of 231 (11918 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 31, 2006
Posts: 248

Re: [roy_hinkley_jr] priceless title [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Will this information be shared or just pointed out that it's wrong?

I'm interested to hear what the issues are.


TerminalVelocity


Sep 16, 2009, 11:50 PM
Post #29 of 231 (11887 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".


Tactix23


Sep 17, 2009, 12:40 AM
Post #30 of 231 (11877 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [mr.tastycakes] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mr.tastycakes wrote:
as i've gotten more and more into climbing, i keep cutting down on lifting weights. I aim for 4 climbing days per week, and only one lifting day which consists of:

squats (4-5 working sets; front or back squats)
clean and press (3-4 working sets), and
incline or flat bench (3-4 working sets)

one hour per week, all hard compound lifts. DONE. isolation exercises pale in comparison. lift like an athlete, not like a bodybuilder, eh? Arms day is for weenies.

Like most people, sat/sun are my outdoor climbing days, so i try to put the lifting in the middle of the week so i'm fully recovered by saturday.

and squats are one of the best exercise out there for total body strength...don't drop 'em from your routine.

this is actually great advice.. I might try this, since I only have time for 1-2 lift days anyway. I might as well do one good compact one. I'll throw in pushups on off days if I feel like it too


zeke_sf


Sep 17, 2009, 12:49 AM
Post #31 of 231 (11873 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".

Um, I'd like to see Aerili pay for girls at "The Ranch". Usually though, girls get dances free at strip joints.

Look, if you're going to snap at everyone here who has forgotten more than you've ever known -- which, I suspect, is a very long list in your case -- this is going to be a bumpy ride for you, and, I'll be honest, you'll probably wind up looking like a complete fucking moron in the process.


TerminalVelocity


Sep 17, 2009, 12:52 AM
Post #32 of 231 (11872 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Yeah, I don't know shit, I'm a "Crossfitter". Shut the FUCK UP! You don't know me. I played running back in high school at 5'8 210, so I believe I know how to lift for size and strength.

Tactix I'll give you some advice but, as usually the morons who "Think they know everyhting", will no doubt chime in. I'll tell you what worked for me when I was lifting but, people are different so I can't say it will help but hopefully get you in the right direction.

Chest and Tris.

Bench: 3 sets. first set 10 easy reps. Second a weight at around 6-8 reps. Third Max. Stick at that max weight until you can do 3 reps (without really struggling) Then once you can do that add 20 pounds. Say you ORM at 315, once you can do that comfortable 3 times try 335 and the so on.

Incline: same as bench

Close grip: 3 sets, 10,6,4

Flys: Best on the machine, 3 sets, first 10, then 4-8 for last 2 sets.

Dips: 2 sets chest forward until failure, the 2 sets chest back 2 sets until failure (for the tris this is probably the best exercise.)

Pushdowns: 3, sets.

Shrugs: 3 sets, 10,8,6.

Switch up some of the exercises once an awhile. Try kickbacks, skull crushers overhead and military presses. Also for one week every month, do lighter weight and higher reps in the 12-20 range.

Bulky legs are annoying, but here are the exercises.

Squats: 4 sets, 10,8,6,4. Go deep, at least parallel but aim past that, almost as if trying to touch your ass on the floor.

Hack Squats: I did these facing the padding of the machine to really hit the quads. 4 sets, 10,8,6,10.

90 Degree Leg Press. 3 sets, 10,8,6.

Extensions: 3 sets, 10,8,6.

Leg Curls: 3 set 10,8,8.

Seated Calf Rises: 4 sets, 10,8,6,12.

Standing Calf Rises: 3 sets, 10,6,12.

I would advise aganist lunges, they can easily cause problems.

Hope this helps. Good Luck on your goals.Wink


Partner angry


Sep 17, 2009, 12:53 AM
Post #33 of 231 (11872 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".

I hear Aerili does that all the time


zeke_sf


Sep 17, 2009, 12:54 AM
Post #34 of 231 (11868 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [angry] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".

I hear Aerili does that all the time

Oh, you dumb bitch. I GU'd you so hard.


zeke_sf


Sep 17, 2009, 12:56 AM
Post #35 of 231 (11866 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
Yeah, I don't know shit, I'm a "Crossfitter". Shut the FUCK UP! You don't know me. I played running back in high school at 5'8 210, so I believe I know how to lift for size and strength.

Tactix I'll give you some advice but, as usually the morons who "Think they know everyhting", will no doubt chime in. I'll tell you what worked for me when I was lifting but, people are different so I can't say it will help but hopefully get you in the right direction.

Chest and Tris.

Bench: 3 sets. first set 10 easy reps. Second a weight at around 6-8 reps. Third Max. Stick at that max weight until you can do 3 reps (without really struggling) Then once you can do that add 20 pounds. Say you ORM at 315, once you can do that comfortable 3 times try 335 and the so on.

Incline: same as bench

Close grip: 3 sets, 10,6,4

Flys: Best on the machine, 3 sets, first 10, then 4-8 for last 2 sets.

Dips: 2 sets chest forward until failure, the 2 sets chest back 2 sets until failure (for the tris this is probably the best exercise.)

Pushdowns: 3, sets.

Shrugs: 3 sets, 10,8,6.

Switch up some of the exercises once an awhile. Try kickbacks, skull crushers overhead and military presses. Also for one week every month, do lighter weight and higher reps in the 12-20 range.

Bulky legs are annoying, but here are the exercises.

Squats: 4 sets, 10,8,6,4. Go deep, at least parallel but aim past that, almost as if trying to touch your ass on the floor.

Hack Squats: I did these facing the padding of the machine to really hit the quads. 4 sets, 10,8,6,10.

90 Degree Leg Press. 3 sets, 10,8,6.

Extensions: 3 sets, 10,8,6.

Leg Curls: 3 set 10,8,8.

Seated Calf Rises: 4 sets, 10,8,6,12.

Standing Calf Rises: 3 sets, 10,6,12.

I would advise aganist lunges, they can easily cause problems.

Hope this helps. Good Luck on your goals.Wink

I'm quoting this for when you decide to erase all your posts in a hissy fit!


TerminalVelocity


Sep 17, 2009, 1:10 AM
Post #36 of 231 (11858 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [zeke_sf] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

zeke_sf wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".

Um, I'd like to see Aerili pay for girls at "The Ranch". Usually though, girls get dances free at strip joints.

Look, if you're going to snap at everyone here who has forgotten more than you've ever known -- which, I suspect, is a very long list in your case -- this is going to be a bumpy ride for you, and, I'll be honest, you'll probably wind up looking like a complete fucking moron in the process.

No, I just have a problem with assholes who act and think that they have a PHD in every aspect of life. Lastly, your in no position to question intelligence, you have over 15,000 posts. Maybe, you might want to try and get out in the real world and gain some knowledge in common sense.


whipper


Sep 17, 2009, 1:20 AM
Post #37 of 231 (11853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Wow, high school football running back. Everyone really should show that guy some respect.
I bet everyone else on here were just band nerds...


zeke_sf


Sep 17, 2009, 1:22 AM
Post #38 of 231 (11850 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".

Um, I'd like to see Aerili pay for girls at "The Ranch". Usually though, girls get dances free at strip joints.

Look, if you're going to snap at everyone here who has forgotten more than you've ever known -- which, I suspect, is a very long list in your case -- this is going to be a bumpy ride for you, and, I'll be honest, you'll probably wind up looking like a complete fucking moron in the process.

No, I just have a problem with assholes who act and think that they have a PHD in every aspect of life. Lastly, your in no position to question intelligence, you have over 15,000 posts. Maybe, you might want to try and get out in the real world and gain some knowledge in common sense.

No, she didn't act like she had a Ph.D. in every aspect of life, she actually acted like she had knowledge in a subject she has a lot of knowledge in. YOUR right though, I am in no position to question YOUR intelligence. It speaks entirely for itself. Touting your pathetic post count as a moral victory is lame, but the fact you probably can't even climb worth a shit with all your lifting is recompense enough for me...


(This post was edited by zeke_sf on Sep 17, 2009, 1:23 AM)


Partner angry


Sep 17, 2009, 1:32 AM
Post #39 of 231 (11843 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".

Um, I'd like to see Aerili pay for girls at "The Ranch". Usually though, girls get dances free at strip joints.

Look, if you're going to snap at everyone here who has forgotten more than you've ever known -- which, I suspect, is a very long list in your case -- this is going to be a bumpy ride for you, and, I'll be honest, you'll probably wind up looking like a complete fucking moron in the process.

No, I just have a problem with assholes who act and think that they have a PHD in every aspect of life. Lastly, your in no position to question intelligence, you have over 15,000 posts. Maybe, you might want to try and get out in the real world and gain some knowledge in common sense.

you're


Partner angry


Sep 17, 2009, 1:33 AM
Post #40 of 231 (11841 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [angry] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Fuck you Zeke, no, double fuck you.


zeke_sf


Sep 17, 2009, 1:35 AM
Post #41 of 231 (11838 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [angry] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry wrote:
Fuck you Zeke, no, double fuck you.

Oh, you beautiful man you. You've made my night. You can't pay for that kind of satisfaction. Well, at The Ranch you can. It's not exactly legal though, and the boyfriend gets to watch.


TerminalVelocity


Sep 17, 2009, 1:53 AM
Post #42 of 231 (11833 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [zeke_sf] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

zeke_sf wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".

Um, I'd like to see Aerili pay for girls at "The Ranch". Usually though, girls get dances free at strip joints.

Look, if you're going to snap at everyone here who has forgotten more than you've ever known -- which, I suspect, is a very long list in your case -- this is going to be a bumpy ride for you, and, I'll be honest, you'll probably wind up looking like a complete fucking moron in the process.

No, I just have a problem with assholes who act and think that they have a PHD in every aspect of life. Lastly, your in no position to question intelligence, you have over 15,000 posts. Maybe, you might want to try and get out in the real world and gain some knowledge in common sense.

No, she didn't act like she had a Ph.D. in every aspect of life, she actually acted like she had knowledge in a subject she has a lot of knowledge in. YOUR right though, I am in no position to question YOUR intelligence. It speaks entirely for itself. Touting your pathetic post count as a moral victory is lame, but the fact you probably can't even climb worth a shit with all your lifting is recompense enough for me...

Yeah, she has a "LOT" of experience being a man and gaining muscle mass as a man. What is your basis for which she has all this insightful info on the subject? Are you implying that by "a lot of knowledge" as you put it, she is a man?


Partner angry


Sep 17, 2009, 1:58 AM
Post #43 of 231 (11831 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".

Um, I'd like to see Aerili pay for girls at "The Ranch". Usually though, girls get dances free at strip joints.

Look, if you're going to snap at everyone here who has forgotten more than you've ever known -- which, I suspect, is a very long list in your case -- this is going to be a bumpy ride for you, and, I'll be honest, you'll probably wind up looking like a complete fucking moron in the process.

No, I just have a problem with assholes who act and think that they have a PHD in every aspect of life. Lastly, your in no position to question intelligence, you have over 15,000 posts. Maybe, you might want to try and get out in the real world and gain some knowledge in common sense.

No, she didn't act like she had a Ph.D. in every aspect of life, she actually acted like she had knowledge in a subject she has a lot of knowledge in. YOUR right though, I am in no position to question YOUR intelligence. It speaks entirely for itself. Touting your pathetic post count as a moral victory is lame, but the fact you probably can't even climb worth a shit with all your lifting is recompense enough for me...

Yeah, she has a "LOT" of experience being a man and gaining muscle mass as a man. What is your basis for which she has all this insightful info on the subject? Are you implying that by "a lot of knowledge" as you put it, she is a man?

If by man you mean a degree in Exercise Physiology and years of experience training all sorts of people, including men, then yes, she's a man. In fact, she probably taught the people who taught the classes that your trainer from H.S. football got the notes from once. To put it in perspective.

So whether or not she's the man, she definitely owns your ass.

And fuck you zeke, if you go 3 times on this one, I'll cut you.


(This post was edited by angry on Sep 17, 2009, 2:00 AM)


TerminalVelocity


Sep 17, 2009, 2:17 AM
Post #44 of 231 (11825 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [angry] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Right, cause it's totally possible to train SIZE AND STRENGTH while you simultaneously train ENDURANCE in the same muscle group.

Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".

Um, I'd like to see Aerili pay for girls at "The Ranch". Usually though, girls get dances free at strip joints.

Look, if you're going to snap at everyone here who has forgotten more than you've ever known -- which, I suspect, is a very long list in your case -- this is going to be a bumpy ride for you, and, I'll be honest, you'll probably wind up looking like a complete fucking moron in the process.

No, I just have a problem with assholes who act and think that they have a PHD in every aspect of life. Lastly, your in no position to question intelligence, you have over 15,000 posts. Maybe, you might want to try and get out in the real world and gain some knowledge in common sense.

No, she didn't act like she had a Ph.D. in every aspect of life, she actually acted like she had knowledge in a subject she has a lot of knowledge in. YOUR right though, I am in no position to question YOUR intelligence. It speaks entirely for itself. Touting your pathetic post count as a moral victory is lame, but the fact you probably can't even climb worth a shit with all your lifting is recompense enough for me...

Yeah, she has a "LOT" of experience being a man and gaining muscle mass as a man. What is your basis for which she has all this insightful info on the subject? Are you implying that by "a lot of knowledge" as you put it, she is a man?

If by man you mean a degree in Exercise Physiology and years of experience training all sorts of people, including men, then yes, she's a man. In fact, she probably taught the people who taught the classes that your trainer from H.S. football got the notes from once. To put it in perspective.

So whether or not she's the man, she definitely owns your ass.

And fuck you zeke, if you go 3 times on this one, I'll cut you.

Clearly, a degree means you're an expert. She's the one who says you can't gain size and strength while also increasing endurance. Yeah that degree bought her a shit load of useful information. Why don't you ask a someone who is older than a 25 year old just out of school, with proven research and ask them. You are also a moron, a dick, and should try not frequenting your computer so much.


TerminalVelocity


Sep 17, 2009, 2:48 AM
Post #45 of 231 (11823 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [angry] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Haha. Yeah, trainers are so smart, then why the fuck can't they get people in shape? I made my own routine, so I know what works. I didn't realize she knew what worked and how it helped improve my goals. But I was mistaken, she must have been watching from afar. My 20 years of experience are nothing compared to her degree reading old text books, which the information has dramatically changed and continues to change daily.

Let us take your idea of the matter and apply it to climbing. You spend four years reading and listening to lectures on proper technique, anchor setup and so on. So I'm guessing after you graduate with this degree you can climb 5.15 and beyond.

I'll stick with hands on experience over a degree. Why don't you go to Iran with a degree in ethics without speaking Farci, they'll really like you.


(This post was edited by TerminalVelocity on Sep 17, 2009, 3:14 AM)


drewstEEz


Sep 17, 2009, 3:09 AM
Post #46 of 231 (11815 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 28, 2007
Posts: 7

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think you have a pretty good idea of what you want from your workout. Focus on antagonist muscle groups (legs, core, and push muscles) and integrate them into a high rep, medium/light weight workout regimen w/ some cardio. Your goals will determine the weight you use and also the amount of cardio you want. The key is working out to complete failure.

Example workout:

Bench press- 10-6-4's (10 reps at 70%-60% your max weight, 6 reps at 50%-40%, and 4 reps at 30%-20% back-to-back-to-back) Do this three times and make sure you have a spotter! You'll know your using the right weight if the first set was hard but not all you've got.

Add some cardio in there and youll be done.

Not only will this tone you up, you'll see gains in mass (depending on the weight you are using), and best of all, IMHO, you'll improve your lactic acid threshold (muscle endurance).

You can do this type of work out for any muscle group. I use the 10-6-4 only for bench and incorporate multiple exercises back-to-back-to...... for other muscle groups. For example:

Legs

10 squats w/ weight, 15 lunges w/weight, calf raises, jumping squats

do that three times and some cardio.


aerili


Sep 17, 2009, 6:23 AM
Post #47 of 231 (11800 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".
Aside from the fact that I never have to pay for sex, T.V., what kind of exercise science research and application did you develop in the fucking moron-ville they call your head?

(I figured that last paragraph was apt to be in language you understand.)



TerminalVelocity wrote:
She's the one who says you can't gain size and strength while also increasing endurance. Yeah that degree bought her a shit load of useful information. Why don't you ask a someone who is older than a 25 year old just out of school, with proven research and ask them.
Firstly, it is true you cannot gain size, strength and endurance all while doing the exact same kind of exercise (i.e. stuff like your Nordic trek recommendation).

Secondly, I LOVE IT when people think I'm 25 and apparently just out of school! I am soooo flattered!!! So much so that I don't think I will burst your bubble with reality.



TerminalVelocity wrote:
My 20 years of experience are nothing compared to her degree reading old text books, which the information has dramatically changed and continues to change daily.
But actually, Mr. Velocity, this quote is truly the best of the bunch.

Why, you ask?

Well, aside from the fact that you think theoretical study has absolutely nothing to do with practical application (regardless of the marvels of science and techology all around you), it just makes me laugh that you actually believe the workout you posted is somehow....hmmm....NEW, PROVEN TO GIVE THE IDEAL RESULTS, or even remotely CUTTING EDGE.

I mean, really, your workout based on h.s. football training from 20 years ago? Cause your knock-me-out training format has been used for that long (and more). But I can tell you, ain't no one in my "qualified, degreed" training studio (where we do train athletes....where men even let ME train THEM to gain MUSCLE! craziness, huh!!) would ask people to pay them for that kind of laymen/noob workout.


aerili


Sep 17, 2009, 6:33 AM
Post #48 of 231 (11796 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

To angry, TerminalVelocity wrote:
You are also a moron, a dick, and should try not frequenting your computer so much.


Oh yeah--and angry had more brain cells during his second week in utero than you had at age 10. (Which is saying a lot, cause you're born with all the brain cells you'll have, but hey, you have to read stupid stuff like textbooks to know those kind of things.)


Edited to add: sidepull, your prediction has been fulfilled. What were the odds?! So glad I could help Wink


(This post was edited by aerili on Sep 17, 2009, 6:36 AM)


andersjr


Sep 17, 2009, 11:00 AM
Post #49 of 231 (11783 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2005
Posts: 141

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
You don't know me. I played running back in high school at 5'8 210, so I believe I know how to lift for size and strength.

i bet your team would have won state if coach would have put you in that game.

have you ever tried to throw a football over that mountain? i bet you could.

thanks for the info Uncle Rico.


TerminalVelocity


Sep 17, 2009, 12:41 PM
Post #50 of 231 (11773 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Wow, your a complete fucking moron. You should just stick with paying for girls at "The Ranch".
Aside from the fact that I never have to pay for sex, T.V., what kind of exercise science research and application did you develop in the fucking moron-ville they call your head?

(I figured that last paragraph was apt to be in language you understand.)



TerminalVelocity wrote:
She's the one who says you can't gain size and strength while also increasing endurance. Yeah that degree bought her a shit load of useful information. Why don't you ask a someone who is older than a 25 year old just out of school, with proven research and ask them.
Firstly, it is true you cannot gain size, strength and endurance all while doing the exact same kind of exercise (i.e. stuff like your Nordic trek recommendation).

Secondly, I LOVE IT when people think I'm 25 and apparently just out of school! I am soooo flattered!!! So much so that I don't think I will burst your bubble with reality.



TerminalVelocity wrote:
My 20 years of experience are nothing compared to her degree reading old text books, which the information has dramatically changed and continues to change daily.
But actually, Mr. Velocity, this quote is truly the best of the bunch.

Why, you ask?

Well, aside from the fact that you think theoretical study has absolutely nothing to do with practical application (regardless of the marvels of science and techology all around you), it just makes me laugh that you actually believe the workout you posted is somehow....hmmm....NEW, PROVEN TO GIVE THE IDEAL RESULTS, or even remotely CUTTING EDGE.

I mean, really, your workout based on h.s. football training from 20 years ago? Cause your knock-me-out training format has been used for that long (and more). But I can tell you, ain't no one in my "qualified, degreed" training studio (where we do train athletes....where men even let ME train THEM to gain MUSCLE! craziness, huh!!) would ask people to pay them for that kind of laymen/noob workout.

Hahaha I gave advice saying what worked for me, as far as gaining SIZE, but obviously your degree didn't come along with the ability to understand the english language. But I'm curious, when did I say this was the "New and Cutting edge workout"? Please tell me, when does having a degree make "you" a qualified expert? If you truly had any knowledge you would know that, some things don't work for some people while others do.

But, you clearly "know" more than everybody, with "your" studio and its cohorts.

I'm very curious and have a question to ask. What size is that stick up your ass?


(This post was edited by TerminalVelocity on Sep 17, 2009, 1:38 PM)


johnwesely


Sep 17, 2009, 1:04 PM
Post #51 of 231 (12981 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
I'm very curious and have a question to ask. What size is that stick up your ass?

Will you join my gang? I could use a big strong boy like you to protect me.


serpico


Sep 17, 2009, 3:53 PM
Post #52 of 231 (12965 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2005
Posts: 139

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Please tell me, when does having a degree make "you" a qualified expert?

Maybe you need to look up the definition of qualified?
Honestly mate, stop digging - it's getting embarrassing.


el_layclimber


Sep 17, 2009, 5:05 PM
Post #53 of 231 (12956 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2006
Posts: 550

Re: [andersjr] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

andersjr wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
You don't know me. I played running back in high school at 5'8 210, so I believe I know how to lift for size and strength.

i bet your team would have won state if coach would have put you in that game.

have you ever tried to throw a football over that mountain? i bet you could.

thanks for the info Uncle Rico.

Now, what about that 32 piece set?


sidepull


Sep 17, 2009, 5:26 PM
Post #54 of 231 (12950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
Edited to add: sidepull, your prediction has been fulfilled. What were the odds?! So glad I could help Wink

To be read as an awards speech:

Wow! I can't, I mean I'm just, *sniff*, there are so many people I need to thank. To the OP, I always believed in you man. To Terminal Velocity - you've done so much for me, you've been my inspiration. To Aerili, we've been through so much together. I'm really really really proud of this thread and I'd like to thank the Academy for selecting it. Thank you!

[followed by a "which way off stage? oh that way" walk off stage escorted by two 7 foot tall models in 8" heels making me look like Papa Smurf (you know, because boulderers are shirtless and wear beanies)].


andersjr


Sep 17, 2009, 7:04 PM
Post #55 of 231 (12923 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2005
Posts: 141

Re: [el_layclimber] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
We also need some way to make us look official, like we got all the answers.

how bout some gold bracelets?

TerminalVelocity wrote:
We need like some name tags with our picture on it, all laminated and what not. I mean, we gotta look legit man.

that's true, that's true


jt512


Sep 17, 2009, 7:12 PM
Post #56 of 231 (12919 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix23 wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Your weight and lifting abilities would help to give you advice on chest and tri workouts. Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Squats, when done properly, are one of the best exercises you can do. It works your entire body. It also gives you great core strength (balance 300 pounds on your shoulders?) which is very applicable to climbing.

It would be stupid of me not to do squats. Unless I had a bad back or a bad knee problem

Or unless you wanted to become a good rock climber.

Jay


Tactix23


Sep 17, 2009, 9:47 PM
Post #57 of 231 (12884 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!


sidepull


Sep 17, 2009, 9:49 PM
Post #58 of 231 (12882 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sweet! Now that you've dissed Jay we have the sequel brewing. Oh this thread just keeps on giving.Cool


jt512


Sep 17, 2009, 9:53 PM
Post #59 of 231 (12879 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix23 wrote:
so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!

What's your climbing level?

Jay


aerili


Sep 17, 2009, 11:38 PM
Post #60 of 231 (12848 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
My 20 years of experience are nothing compared to her degree reading old text books, which the information [sic] has dramatically changed and continues to change daily.

....
But I'm curious, when did I say this was the "New and Cutting edge workout"?
Keeping your thoughts gathered isn't your strong suit, sir.



In reply to:
Please tell me, when does having a degree make "you" a qualified expert?

It's not just my degree that makes me one.

Maybe it's not your fault education never 'took' with you.

But please, feel free to have the last gibberish.


Partner angry


Sep 18, 2009, 12:15 AM
Post #61 of 231 (12841 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [sidepull] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sidepull wrote:
aerili wrote:
Edited to add: sidepull, your prediction has been fulfilled. What were the odds?! So glad I could help Wink

To be read as an awards speech:

Wow! I can't, I mean I'm just, *sniff*, there are so many people I need to thank. To the OP, I always believed in you man. To Terminal Velocity - you've done so much for me, you've been my inspiration. To Aerili, we've been through so much together. I'm really really really proud of this thread and I'd like to thank the Academy for selecting it. Thank you!

[followed by a "which way off stage? oh that way" walk off stage escorted by two 7 foot tall models in 8" heels making me look like Papa Smurf (you know, because boulderers are shirtless and wear beanies)].




scion


Sep 18, 2009, 2:13 AM
Post #62 of 231 (12818 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 5, 2006
Posts: 39

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
you're born with all the brain cells you'll have
Actually, no, but please don't let that interrupt the beat-down. This is entertaining!


sidepull


Sep 18, 2009, 3:02 AM
Post #63 of 231 (12808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [angry] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry you're right, where are pop cultural manners? I totally should have dropped a kanye reference. Alas, missed opportunities left for others to harvest.


onceahardman


Sep 18, 2009, 3:07 AM
Post #64 of 231 (12806 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!

What's your climbing level?

Jay

Of course, we all know that if you report a higher level, you, by default, have superior training methods, regardless of the difference between onsight trad, and hangdog sport levels. Clearly, a hangdog sport .12a is "superior" to an onsight, old-school trad .11d. After all, the number is higher.

serpico climbs way harder than you, and (if I'm not mistaken) is a proponent of (some) strength training for rock climbers.

There is a necessary level of strength to pull harder. To utterly dismiss strength training is, IMO foolish.


serpico


Sep 18, 2009, 7:53 AM
Post #65 of 231 (12789 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2005
Posts: 139

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
serpico (if I'm not mistaken) is a proponent of (some) strength training for rock climbers.

Some strength training for some rock climbers, I think the majority of climbers don't have the time to prioritise the climbing and fit strength/conditioning sessions in - climbing must come first.
For me I like the idea of having my crag time completely devoted to quality movement and then working on the strength component later using weights, floor work, fingerboards, and system boards.
Using this approach I've upped my bouldering grade 2-3 grades over the last 2yrs, which at 41 and after nearly 20yrs of climbing is I think a reasonable improvement, and I think I've got at least another grade in me...


TerminalVelocity


Sep 18, 2009, 3:55 PM
Post #66 of 231 (12756 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix23 wrote:
so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!

Says the guy asking for advice.


TerminalVelocity


Sep 18, 2009, 4:01 PM
Post #67 of 231 (12753 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
My 20 years of experience are nothing compared to her degree reading old text books, which the information [sic] has dramatically changed and continues to change daily.

....
But I'm curious, when did I say this was the "New and Cutting edge workout"?
Keeping your thoughts gathered isn't your strong suit, sir.



In reply to:
Please tell me, when does having a degree make "you" a qualified expert?

It's not just my degree that makes me one.

Maybe it's not your fault education never 'took' with you.

But please, feel free to have the last gibberish.

I'm still wondering what makes you an expert. That's all I want to know.


reno


Sep 18, 2009, 4:05 PM
Post #68 of 231 (12751 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
My 20 years of experience are nothing compared to her degree reading old text books, which the information [sic] has dramatically changed and continues to change daily.

....
But I'm curious, when did I say this was the "New and Cutting edge workout"?
Keeping your thoughts gathered isn't your strong suit, sir.



In reply to:
Please tell me, when does having a degree make "you" a qualified expert?

It's not just my degree that makes me one.

Maybe it's not your fault education never 'took' with you.

But please, feel free to have the last gibberish.

I'm still wondering what makes you an expert. That's all I want to know.

She's well educated in the field of sports performance enhancement, has been doing it for years (probably since you first spanked your monkey to the lingerie section of the Sear's Catalog,) keeps current on the scientific literature, and is capable of critical thinking.

Oh, and she can form a coherent thought, something you seem unable or unwilling to do.


TerminalVelocity


Sep 18, 2009, 4:20 PM
Post #69 of 231 (12745 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [reno] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
My 20 years of experience are nothing compared to her degree reading old text books, which the information [sic] has dramatically changed and continues to change daily.

....
But I'm curious, when did I say this was the "New and Cutting edge workout"?
Keeping your thoughts gathered isn't your strong suit, sir.



In reply to:
Please tell me, when does having a degree make "you" a qualified expert?

It's not just my degree that makes me one.

Maybe it's not your fault education never 'took' with you.

But please, feel free to have the last gibberish.

I'm still wondering what makes you an expert. That's all I want to know.

She's well educated in the field of sports performance enhancement, has been doing it for years (probably since you first spanked your monkey to the lingerie section of the Sear's Catalog,) keeps current on the scientific literature, and is capable of critical thinking.

Oh, and she can form a coherent thought, something you seem unable or unwilling to do.

A well educated man/woman realizes that nobody (himself/herself included) is an expert, but a student for life.


reno


Sep 18, 2009, 4:37 PM
Post #70 of 231 (12740 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
A well educated man/woman realizes that nobody (himself/herself included) is an expert, but a student for life.

You seem to think the two are mutually exclusive.

Back to the school books for you, Student.


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 4:50 PM
Post #71 of 231 (12732 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!

Says the guy asking for advice.

There seems to be a lot of miss communication on this website. I didn't ask "How do I build my chest? How do I work my chest?"

I know 101 different chest workouts. I just wanted to hear from someone who climbs and lifts together. From what I have seen, people either lift or climb. Not both (unless they are not serious about one)


gmggg


Sep 18, 2009, 4:50 PM
Post #72 of 231 (12731 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2009
Posts: 2099

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
A well educated man/woman realizes that nobody (himself/herself included) is an expert, but a student troll for life.

fixt


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 4:52 PM
Post #73 of 231 (12729 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!

What's your climbing level?

Jay

That has nothing to do with this thread. But I climb v5, 5.10 indoor. And that's probably lower than what I can climb seeing as gyms outside new york are much easier to climb in. I've been climbing for 5 months now


(This post was edited by Tactix23 on Sep 18, 2009, 4:53 PM)


jt512


Sep 18, 2009, 5:41 PM
Post #74 of 231 (12714 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [reno] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
My 20 years of experience are nothing compared to her degree reading old text books, which the information [sic] has dramatically changed and continues to change daily.

....
But I'm curious, when did I say this was the "New and Cutting edge workout"?
Keeping your thoughts gathered isn't your strong suit, sir.



In reply to:
Please tell me, when does having a degree make "you" a qualified expert?

It's not just my degree that makes me one.

Maybe it's not your fault education never 'took' with you.

But please, feel free to have the last gibberish.

I'm still wondering what makes you an expert. That's all I want to know.

She's well educated in the field of sports performance enhancement, has been doing it for years (probably since you first spanked your monkey to the lingerie section of the Sear's Catalog,) keeps current on the scientific literature, and is capable of critical thinking.

And she trains professional athletes.

Jay


jt512


Sep 18, 2009, 5:42 PM
Post #75 of 231 (12710 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix23 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!

What's your climbing level?

Jay

That has nothing to do with this thread. But I climb v5, 5.10 indoor. And that's probably lower than what I can climb seeing as gyms outside new york are much easier to climb in. I've been climbing for 5 months now

Quoted for posterity.

Jay


gmggg


Sep 18, 2009, 5:43 PM
Post #76 of 231 (10576 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2009
Posts: 2099

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!

What's your climbing level?

Jay

That has nothing to do with this thread. But I climb v5, 5.10 indoor. And that's probably lower than what I can climb seeing as gyms outside new york are much easier to climb in. I've been climbing for 5 months now

Quoted for posterity.

Jay

Good move.


jt512


Sep 18, 2009, 5:44 PM
Post #77 of 231 (10576 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Tactix23 wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!

Says the guy asking for advice.

There seems to be a lot of miss communication on this website.

We have a beauty pageant runner-up on the website? Who? Not Sarah Palin, I hope.

Jay


jt512


Sep 18, 2009, 5:47 PM
Post #78 of 231 (10574 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix23 wrote:
From what I have seen, people either lift or climb. Not both (unless they are not serious about one)

Take a hint from that, you clueless twit.

Jay


MS1


Sep 18, 2009, 6:02 PM
Post #79 of 231 (10569 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 560

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix, it is surprising that the following fact isn't obvious to you: Your climbing performance can be limited by having too much muscle mass on your body. If you want to pull hard, it is better to be shaped like Adam Ondra than the Rock.

I guess, in your worldview, all jockeys should bulk up and get big. After all, they can pull harder on the reins if they have bigger lats, right?


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 6:04 PM
Post #80 of 231 (10568 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
so many fitness noobs on here.. you derive power from your legs, yeah squats will definitely hurt your climbing!

What's your climbing level?

Jay

That has nothing to do with this thread. But I climb v5, 5.10 indoor. And that's probably lower than what I can climb seeing as gyms outside new york are much easier to climb in. I've been climbing for 5 months now

Quoted for posterity.

Jay

Not to be a dick, but I climb pretty fucking well for how new I am. So quote me all you want lol... I climb better than people who have been doing it for awhile now.

So how much do you bench? Care to explain why squats are bad for climbing? Or did you really just mean to say a lot of muscle mass is bad for climbing. You get what I am saying right?


MS1


Sep 18, 2009, 6:06 PM
Post #81 of 231 (10564 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 560

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just look at how limited he is by those skinny, weak legs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrc2JKEc_bs


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 6:08 PM
Post #82 of 231 (10562 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [MS1] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

MS1 wrote:
Tactix, it is surprising that the following fact isn't obvious to you: Your climbing performance can be limited by having too much muscle mass on your body. If you want to pull hard, it is better to be shaped like Adam Ondra than the Rock.

I guess, in your worldview, all jockeys should bulk up and get big. After all, they can pull harder on the reins if they have bigger lats, right?

What the hell are you talking about? You elitist climbers can't seem to pull your heads out of your own smug asses. I wasn't asking "How do I get jacked, and will I climb good mad jacked yo?"

I was asking if there were any climbers on here who enjoyed looking well balanced. Not having big shoulders and small chests. You think my climbing ability would be highly hindered if I gained 4 pounds all in my chest? No fucking way, I'm sorry.

The squats are merely to keep my legs strong, work my core and nobody should go without leg work. I'm sorry. On the other hand, I didn't say I was going to do squats to the point were my legs were the size of tree trunks.

Not all of us here wish we were professional climbers. Some of us do it for fun. So I could care less if some random douche in ohio who climbs 5.14 scoffs at my 5.10 indoor and laughs that I want to bench press. Get a clue. lol


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 6:10 PM
Post #83 of 231 (10560 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [MS1] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

MS1 wrote:
Just look at how limited he is by those skinny, weak legs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrc2JKEc_bs

Nodody said you needed big legs to be a good climber. Nobody said that strong legs are necessarily "big".


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 6:12 PM
Post #84 of 231 (10557 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
From what I have seen, people either lift or climb. Not both (unless they are not serious about one)

Take a hint from that, you clueless twit.

Jay

You're telling me to get a clue??? Wow, this guy is oblivious to anything but himself


MS1


Sep 18, 2009, 6:13 PM
Post #85 of 231 (10553 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 560

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dude, if you want to be big and climb a little less hard, fine by me. What people are reacting to is your incredulity that doing squats could limit your climbing performance.


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 6:14 PM
Post #86 of 231 (10547 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm surprised such and old douche like yourself can't learn to stay out of threads you don't belong in.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...pe_s_Core_23497.html
but thanks dad!


(This post was edited by Tactix23 on Sep 18, 2009, 6:17 PM)


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 6:16 PM
Post #87 of 231 (10543 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [MS1] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

MS1 wrote:
Dude, if you want to be big and climb a little less hard, fine by me. What people are reacting to is your incredulity that doing squats could limit your climbing performance.

Once again, I don't want to be bigger as a person. I want a bigger CHEST and TRICEPS. Which don't get worked much in climbing

And last but not least, you do realize that exercises can be done in many different ways correct? One can do squats with low weight for higher reps correct?


sidepull


Sep 18, 2009, 6:16 PM
Post #88 of 231 (10542 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [serpico] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

serpico wrote:
In reply to:
serpico (if I'm not mistaken) is a proponent of (some) strength training for rock climbers.

Some strength training for some rock climbers, I think the majority of climbers don't have the time to prioritise the climbing and fit strength/conditioning sessions in - climbing must come first.
For me I like the idea of having my crag time completely devoted to quality movement and then working on the strength component later using weights, floor work, fingerboards, and system boards.
Using this approach I've upped my bouldering grade 2-3 grades over the last 2yrs, which at 41 and after nearly 20yrs of climbing is I think a reasonable improvement, and I think I've got at least another grade in me...

Serpico,

I don't want to tarnish this thread with "sense" so would you mind posting more details in a new thread?


jt512


Sep 18, 2009, 6:19 PM
Post #89 of 231 (10539 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix23 wrote:
So how much do you bench?

I don't. Why would I?

In reply to:
Care to explain why squats are bad for climbing?

Not to you.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 18, 2009, 6:27 PM)


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 6:20 PM
Post #90 of 231 (10536 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [sidepull] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sidepull wrote:
serpico wrote:
In reply to:
serpico (if I'm not mistaken) is a proponent of (some) strength training for rock climbers.

Some strength training for some rock climbers, I think the majority of climbers don't have the time to prioritise the climbing and fit strength/conditioning sessions in - climbing must come first.
For me I like the idea of having my crag time completely devoted to quality movement and then working on the strength component later using weights, floor work, fingerboards, and system boards.
Using this approach I've upped my bouldering grade 2-3 grades over the last 2yrs, which at 41 and after nearly 20yrs of climbing is I think a reasonable improvement, and I think I've got at least another grade in me...

Serpico,

I don't want to tarnish this thread with "sense" so would you mind posting more details in a new thread?

There would have been less bullshit in this thread if the elitist scumbags stayed out. That is the trend on this website however. I don't butt my noise into threads about shit I don't care or know anything about so neither should grandpa


jt512


Sep 18, 2009, 6:22 PM
Post #91 of 231 (10533 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix23 wrote:
I'm surprised such and old douche like yourself can't learn to stay out of threads you don't belong in.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...pe_s_Core_23497.html
but thanks dad!

Sorry, Child. I'll stay out of your the rest of your thread. Let me know if you want to know how to climb 5.13, you know, like I do.

Jay


Tactix23


Sep 18, 2009, 6:26 PM
Post #92 of 231 (10529 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2009
Posts: 141

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
I'm surprised such and old douche like yourself can't learn to stay out of threads you don't belong in.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...pe_s_Core_23497.html
but thanks dad!

Sorry, Child. I'll stay out of your the rest of your thread. Let me know if you want to know how to climb 5.13, you know, like I do.

Jay
Nevermind. Goodbye!


(This post was edited by Tactix23 on Sep 18, 2009, 6:26 PM)


MS1


Sep 18, 2009, 6:27 PM
Post #93 of 231 (10526 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 560

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tactix is apparently shocked that, after he posted his plans for a workout schedule in a "technique and training" forum on a website called rockclimbing.com, various rock climbers discussed the effect it might have on his ability to climb rocks.


csproul


Sep 18, 2009, 7:10 PM
Post #94 of 231 (10506 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
I'm surprised such and old douche like yourself can't learn to stay out of threads you don't belong in.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...pe_s_Core_23497.html
but thanks dad!

Sorry, Child. I'll stay out of your the rest of your thread. Let me know if you want to know how to climb 5.13, you know, like I do.

Jay
So wait a minute Jay, is your ascent log not up to date...I don't see any 13's in there?Tongue


mr.tastycakes


Sep 18, 2009, 8:16 PM
Post #95 of 231 (10491 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [csproul] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sorry to interrupt the pissing match going on here, but i've got some questions.

(generalizing a bit here) Most people who practice or train people for "skill sports" have rejected the notion that lifting weights necessarily makes you overly bulky, inflexible, and slow. Even people who participate in sports where weight matters and players should be lean and mean (i.e. wrestling, boxing, other martial arts) see value in strength training. What makes climbing inherently different?

All other things being equal (movement skills, athletic attributes, mental game), won't the physically stronger climber climb harder?

For those who discourage strength training for climbing, is your opinion based on the idea that strength training itself is bad for climbing, or on the idea that one will have to sacrifice climbing time (or recovery time) to train strength?

There are some very knowledgeable people on this board and some damn strong climbers...it's a shame that so many threads turn to shit. how about leaving the flaming for the general forum?


jt512


Sep 18, 2009, 8:20 PM
Post #96 of 231 (10487 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [csproul] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

csproul wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
I'm surprised such and old douche like yourself can't learn to stay out of threads you don't belong in.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...pe_s_Core_23497.html
but thanks dad!

Sorry, Child. I'll stay out of your the rest of your thread. Let me know if you want to know how to climb 5.13, you know, like I do.

Jay
So wait a minute Jay, is your ascent log not up to date...I don't see any 13's in there?Tongue

I shouldn't have said I "climb" 5.13. That's a classic overstatement. I've only rp'ed one 13, and it's not in the route DB.

Jay


MikeSaint


Sep 18, 2009, 8:27 PM
Post #97 of 231 (10483 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2007
Posts: 426

Sit and take notes. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you get on Youtube and look up Ronnie Coleman you will see that you can be JACKED and still rock climb.

Nothing but peanuts suckas.


(This post was edited by MikeSaint on Sep 18, 2009, 8:30 PM)


reno


Sep 18, 2009, 8:29 PM
Post #98 of 231 (10481 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [mr.tastycakes] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mr.tastycakes wrote:
sorry to interrupt the pissing match going on here, but i've got some questions.

(generalizing a bit here) Most people who practice or train people for "skill sports" have rejected the notion that lifting weights necessarily makes you overly bulky, inflexible, and slow. Even people who participate in sports where weight matters and players should be lean and mean (i.e. wrestling, boxing, other martial arts) see value in strength training. What makes climbing inherently different?

None of those involve battling gravity to quite the extent that climbing does. Given that strength training generally involves adding muscle mass, a greater muscle mass = more weight to pull up the rock.

Certainly there can be a balance, but as far as I know, there are few studies that show a positive correlation between doing weight training and climbing better/higher grades.

In reply to:
All other things being equal (movement skills, athletic attributes, mental game), won't the physically stronger climber climb harder?

No. The climber with better technique and greater muscle endurance will climb harder.


johnwesely


Sep 18, 2009, 9:08 PM
Post #99 of 231 (10464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360

Re: [mr.tastycakes] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mr.tastycakes wrote:

For those who discourage strength training for climbing, is your opinion based on the idea that strength training itself is bad for climbing, or on the idea that one will have to sacrifice climbing time (or recovery time) to train strength?

Lifting weights is not specific to climbing. There is no workout that I know of that even remotely simulates climbing's use of the forearms. When you are climbing, you fall because your forearms give out. Your forearms give out because they are stressed. The more you weigh, the more they are stressed.


mr.tastycakes


Sep 18, 2009, 9:35 PM
Post #100 of 231 (10453 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [johnwesely] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Lifting weights is not specific to climbing.

no argument from me here. it isn't specific to any sport, except weightlifting.

In reply to:
There is no workout that I know of that even remotely simulates climbing's use of the forearms.

fair enough.

In reply to:
When you are climbing, you fall because your forearms give out.

well, you can fall for any number of reasons. A vicious pump isn't the only cause of falls.

In reply to:
Your forearms give out because they are stressed. The more you weigh, the more they are stressed.

fair enough.

So you're of the opinion that one can't increase strength without gaining weight?


mr.tastycakes


Sep 18, 2009, 9:37 PM
Post #101 of 231 (11303 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [reno] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
No. The climber with better technique and greater muscle endurance will climb harder.

By giving our hypothetical climbers differing levels of technique and endurance, you're not holding all other things equal.


(This post was edited by mr.tastycakes on Sep 18, 2009, 9:38 PM)


reno


Sep 18, 2009, 9:45 PM
Post #102 of 231 (11294 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [mr.tastycakes] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mr.tastycakes wrote:
In reply to:
No. The climber with better technique and greater muscle endurance will climb harder.

By giving our hypothetical climbers differing levels of technique and endurance, you're not holding all other things equal.

It doesn't matter... there is still no data to indicate that a "stronger" climber (whatever that means, but in the context of this thread, it means someone who lifts weights and does squats) will be any better.

If that's your position: That a climber who can bench more, or squat more, or curl more, will be better as a rock climber, then please show us the scientific data.


mr.tastycakes


Sep 18, 2009, 9:54 PM
Post #103 of 231 (11289 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [reno] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've never said strength training will improve your climbing. I'm interested in examining the reasons why some people believe it will be detrimental.

I've got no data to support my positions; actually, I don't have a position on this topic. I'm just interested in the basis of others' beliefs.


scion


Sep 18, 2009, 10:20 PM
Post #104 of 231 (11275 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 5, 2006
Posts: 39

Re: [mr.tastycakes] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mr.tastycakes wrote:
I've never said strength training will improve your climbing. I'm interested in examining the reasons why some people believe it will be detrimental.

I've got no data to support my positions; actually, I don't have a position on this topic. I'm just interested in the basis of others' beliefs.
Well, Tactix apparently wants to add 4 lbs of mass to his chest, so maybe he could volunteer to strap that amount of weight on right now and let us know how much it helps his climbing. For the vast majority of climbing moves, that's all that increasing his chest size and strength is going to do.


onceahardman


Sep 18, 2009, 10:34 PM
Post #105 of 231 (11273 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [reno] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
mr.tastycakes wrote:
In reply to:
No. The climber with better technique and greater muscle endurance will climb harder.

By giving our hypothetical climbers differing levels of technique and endurance, you're not holding all other things equal.

It doesn't matter... there is still no data to indicate that a "stronger" climber (whatever that means, but in the context of this thread, it means someone who lifts weights and does squats) will be any better.

If that's your position: That a climber who can bench more, or squat more, or curl more, will be better as a rock climber, then please show us the scientific data.

Gosh, reno, I so seldom disagree with you...

There is unlikely to be scientific evidence supporting specific lifts as correlating to improved climbing-ever. But that's not really the point. To me, it's pretty clear that some routes have a degree of strength-dependence, similar to the way some routes have a degree of height-dependence. (Doesn't make it impossible to do the route if short or weak, but rather, more tall or strong people have had success on the route.)


Resistance training, when properly conceived and diligently done, can improve the strength of specific motions. Any disagreement with that? Training campusing is resistance training. Any disagreement?

I have myself strained a hamstring doing a hard heel hook, and I have treated climbers with similar injuries. The treatment? Hamstring strengthening, usually in closed chain, like modified stiff leg deadlifts (once sufficient healing had taken place.) The results? Exact same move later completed without re-injury.

I know it's kind of a case study/anecdotal evidence, but it can happen.

Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

I don't know how many routes are dependent on hamstring strength, but some are. Squats, and variants thereof, strengthen the hammies. Strong hammies are less likely to strain. Disagree?


theguy


Sep 18, 2009, 10:58 PM
Post #106 of 231 (11263 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 14, 2004
Posts: 469

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You might be onto something.

An elite (rather than elitist) climber by the name of Ben Moon includes the following in his power training program:

"...

- Weight Training"








Say it ain't so, Joe!


whipper


Sep 19, 2009, 1:36 AM
Post #107 of 231 (11250 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [theguy] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

WOW, JT, you are a tool in this debate. For what its worth, I do lift at least 3 times a week. I am 185#'s, 11% body fat, my bench max is about 260, and can redpoint 5.13 sport and 5.12 trad. No pissing match here, just letting ol JT know that he is not the ultimate authority on the subject. The way he talks I always thought he was stronger, but ONE 13....was it at Jacks Canyon?
I can also manhandle a haul bag around, there is something to be said for having guns on big walls.
I guess I kinda think, Do what you want...


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 1:54 AM
Post #108 of 231 (11247 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
WOW, JT, you are a tool in this debate. For what its worth, I do lift at least 3 times a week. I am 185#'s, 11% body fat, my bench max is about 260, and can redpoint 5.13 sport and 5.12 trad.

You seem to have a couple of typos in your profile.

Jay


whipper


Sep 19, 2009, 2:18 AM
Post #109 of 231 (11243 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hmmm, your right,
thats no longer my current email, I dont live in Fort Collins any more, and climb harder. Also I would never say in my profile that I climb 5.13, I can and have redpointed that level, but dont onsight it, and dont send one a week.
What sucks is that it should not matter how hard you climb. Knowledge is what we are after on these forums, not physical prowess.
I used to have some respect for your posts, but it seems like you are an elitist bastard with no reason to be one. Glad to know that there are people like you out there who get their jollies buy telling nOOBs how stupid they are. Good thing you found someone to be better than, we all need that.


(This post was edited by whipper on Sep 19, 2009, 2:19 AM)


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 2:57 AM
Post #110 of 231 (11235 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In consecutive posts, whipper wrote:
[1] I am 185#'s, 11% body fat, my bench max is about 260, and can redpoint 5.13 sport and 5.12 trad.

[2] Knowledge is what we are after on these forums, not physical prowess.


johnwesely


Sep 19, 2009, 2:58 AM
Post #111 of 231 (11234 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360

Re: [mr.tastycakes] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mr.tastycakes wrote:
So you're of the opinion that one can't increase strength without gaining weight?

You can increase strength without gaining weight, but you just might gain weight trying.


whipper


Sep 19, 2009, 3:10 AM
Post #112 of 231 (11230 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yep, I did.
I posted my stats to prove you wrong, which was not that hard to do.
You also asked someone earlier how hard they climbed, implying that you knew better than others because you climbed harder. Does that make me know more than you do (because I am a better climber)? I think not, although on THIS topic, I betcha I do.
I am really starting to think that you are the simplest of all tools...


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 3:32 AM
Post #113 of 231 (11220 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
Yep, I did.
I posted my stats to prove you wrong, which was not that hard to do.

You didn't "prove me wrong." If you think you did, then post the claim of mine that you think you disproved.

In reply to:
You also asked someone earlier how hard they climbed, implying that you knew better than others because you climbed harder.

Wrong. I asked him how hard he currently climbs because I wanted a benchmark, so in the unlikely event that he is still around here in 6 months, I could ask him what his new level of climbing was, in order to make a rudimentary assessment of how his "training" regiment affected his climbing.

In reply to:
Does that make me know more than you do (because I am a better climber)? I think not, although on THIS topic, I betcha I do.

Well, I think you'd climb harder if you lost 20 lb of useless muscle mass.

In reply to:
I am really starting to think that you are the simplest of all tools...

Well, you post up about how you "disproved" me, and then we'll see exactly who the simplistic thinker is.

Jay


whipper


Sep 19, 2009, 3:54 AM
Post #114 of 231 (11216 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

WTF....
useless muscle mass???? 20 pounds? I am 6 foot tall, there is no way I could lose 20 pounds and be healthy. You have really no clue, do you?
You implied that lifting would hurt climbing performance, that is just not the case. I am not a body builder, far from it. I am well built.
After looking at your pics, looks like you could loose a little bit of wieght there. Hows your 6 pack coming along? Lifting helps keep me slim, muscle mass burns calories.
Anyone on here who thinks JT's question about how hard the other guy climbed was for a "benchmark" feel free to post up. I call bull shit on that, he didnt ask you to judge his training regiment or make a god damned "rudimentary assesment" of him. I have, however, made one of you, and I concluded that you are an elitist jackass.


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 4:15 AM
Post #115 of 231 (11212 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
You implied that lifting would hurt climbing performance...

Where, in your opinion, did I imply that "lifting" would hurt climbing performance.

In reply to:
I am well built.


Yuck. Did you actually just write that?

Jay


el_layclimber


Sep 19, 2009, 4:40 AM
Post #116 of 231 (11209 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2006
Posts: 550

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
WOW, JT, you are a tool in this debate. For what its worth, I do lift at least 3 times a week. I am 185#'s, 11% body fat, my bench max is about 260, and can redpoint 5.13 sport and 5.12 trad. No pissing match here, just letting ol JT know that he is not the ultimate authority on the subject. The way he talks I always thought he was stronger, but ONE 13....was it at Jacks Canyon?
I can also manhandle a haul bag around, there is something to be said for having guns on big walls.
I guess I kinda think, Do what you want...

Going to make a couple more guesses here:
1. You can hike in and out on a back country route with a rope and a rack and still have enough in the tank to pull a few hard pitches.
2. You are interested in general fitness, and can see the value in being able to do things other than climb. You could also play a game of b-ball or some soccer without getting spanked if you felt like it.

Sorry, but you missed some rules for the weights v. pulling down battle royale: A) We only care about climbing. B) If you have anecdotal evidence, we will demand scientific proof. BUT we will all point out that climbing is sooooo complex that you can't possibly do a controlled study of it. C) only three or four people are allowed to give training advice. D) Certain folks will be total dicks for about 20 posts, tell you you don't make sense, then start backpedaling.


aerili


Sep 19, 2009, 6:19 AM
Post #117 of 231 (11200 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [scion] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

scion wrote:
aerili wrote:
you're born with all the brain cells you'll have
Actually, no, but please don't let that interrupt the beat-down. This is entertaining!

Well, I'm aware that there's some evidence that neural tissue regenerates after certain brain traumas (like stroke, etc.), and the only other evidence I'm aware of is brain cell growth in the hippocampus, which, let's face it, won't help TerminalVelocity with his higher thought process deficits.

P.S. Fwiw, I read that the research methodology for measuring the age of nerve cells is extremely complicated, especially in man, and gives unreliable and controversial results.


aerili


Sep 19, 2009, 6:52 AM
Post #118 of 231 (11194 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [MS1] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

MS1 wrote:
Dude, if you want to be big and climb a little less hard, fine by me. What people are reacting to is your incredulity that doing squats could limit your climbing performance.

C'mon people, 2-4 sets of squats a week is NOT going to weigh you down and hold you back in your climbing progress. Get real. The OP has repeatedly stated he is not talking about deadlifting 450 pounds 2 or 3 times a week. He has also stated his goals clearly and they are not all wired toward just climbing.

Who has any data or even a freakin anecdotal story that a few sets of moderate-weight squats/other lower body weight training every week has kept them a 5.10 gym climber for life??!

If you have ongoing knee injuries/issues, I would even hedge a bet some squats might help your climbing when it comes to knee pain and function during certain moves.

There is no one optimal amount of muscle mass for all individuals; ergo, climbers like Tony Yaniro vs climbers like Dave Graham.


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 11:55 AM
Post #119 of 231 (11181 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
MS1 wrote:
Dude, if you want to be big and climb a little less hard, fine by me. What people are reacting to is your incredulity that doing squats could limit your climbing performance.

C'mon people, 2-4 sets of squats a week is NOT going to weigh you down and hold you back in your climbing progress. Get real. The OP has repeatedly stated he is not talking about deadlifting 450 pounds 2 or 3 times a week. He has also stated his goals clearly and they are not all wired toward just climbing.

Who has any data or even a freakin anecdotal story that a few sets of moderate-weight squats/other lower body weight training every week has kept them a 5.10 gym climber for life??!

If you have ongoing knee injuries/issues, I would even hedge a bet some squats might help your climbing when it comes to knee pain and function during certain moves.

There is no one optimal amount of muscle mass for all individuals; ergo, climbers like Tony Yaniro vs climbers like Dave Graham.

The OP wants to "bulk up." He has implied that he wants to gain 4 lb, just in his chest, and wants to be "balanced." How much mass in his legs will he have to gain to "balance" the four pounds of chest mass? Conservatively, 8 lb? So that's 12 lb right there. Yes, that is going to hinder his climbing. Like someone else said, if he doesn't believe that, he should just try strapping the weight on now, and see how it goes.

Jay


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 12:05 PM
Post #120 of 231 (11177 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

onceahardman wrote:
I have myself strained a hamstring doing a hard heel hook, and I have treated climbers with similar injuries. The treatment? Hamstring strengthening, usually in closed chain, like modified stiff leg deadlifts (once sufficient healing had taken place.) The results? Exact same move later completed without re-injury.

Not a very compelling argument. "A" happened. Did "B". "A" didn't happen again. Therefore, lack of "B" caused "A".

Jay


johnwesely


Sep 19, 2009, 2:03 PM
Post #121 of 231 (11164 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
WTF....
useless muscle mass???? 20 pounds? I am 6 foot tall, there is no way I could lose 20 pounds and be healthy.

I am six foot three and somewhere between 150 and 160 pounds and I do alright.


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 2:13 PM
Post #122 of 231 (11162 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [johnwesely] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johnwesely wrote:
whipper wrote:
WTF....
useless muscle mass???? 20 pounds? I am 6 foot tall, there is no way I could lose 20 pounds and be healthy.

I am six foot three and somewhere between 150 and 160 pounds and I do alright.

You have to understand that to a weight lifter, weight lifting is like a religion. If you question a weight lifter's cherished beliefs, they react emotionally. I have no idea how such a mind-numbingly boring activity can become a religion, but then again, religion itself is mind numbing, so perhaps I shouldn't be surprised.

Jay


TerminalVelocity


Sep 19, 2009, 3:45 PM
Post #123 of 231 (11143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
WOW, JT, you are a tool in this debate. For what its worth, I do lift at least 3 times a week. I am 185#'s, 11% body fat, my bench max is about 260, and can redpoint 5.13 sport and 5.12 trad. No pissing match here, just letting ol JT know that he is not the ultimate authority on the subject. The way he talks I always thought he was stronger, but ONE 13....was it at Jacks Canyon?
I can also manhandle a haul bag around, there is something to be said for having guns on big walls.
I guess I kinda think, Do what you want...

How do you get your bench max about 260? It's either that you've done it or not.


nivlac


Sep 19, 2009, 4:03 PM
Post #124 of 231 (11141 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2003
Posts: 141

Re: [mr.tastycakes] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mr.tastycakes wrote:
I've never said strength training will improve your climbing. I'm interested in examining the reasons why some people believe it will be detrimental.

I've got no data to support my positions; actually, I don't have a position on this topic. I'm just interested in the basis of others' beliefs.

Any gymnasts on this thread or this site or anyone with knowledge related to that? I watch gymnasts with varying amounts of awe doing pommel horse, rings and the floor routine and think how applicable those movements are to climbing.

Does anyone know if gymnasts do any specific weight (strength) training? Even if they don't do weights, they definitely engage in strength training designed to improve their ability to perform difficult and complex movements that look applicable to climbing and gymnastics is definitely a gravity specific sport, much like climbing.

Gymnasts perform exercises where forearm and grip strength are paramount, yet also need good core strength etc. Wouldn't it seem reasonable to draw comparisons here? Wasn't Gill a former gymnast (meaning good gymnasts have the training to be very good climbers)?


scion


Sep 19, 2009, 5:11 PM
Post #125 of 231 (11126 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 5, 2006
Posts: 39

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
Well, I'm aware that there's some evidence that neural tissue regenerates after certain brain traumas (like stroke, etc.), and the only other evidence I'm aware of is brain cell growth in the hippocampus, which, let's face it, won't help TerminalVelocity with his higher thought process deficits.

P.S. Fwiw, I read that the research methodology for measuring the age of nerve cells is extremely complicated, especially in man, and gives unreliable and controversial results.
Neurogenesis isn't limited to the hippocampus nor just as a result of trauma. That research was only tangentially related to mine, so I was never very up on it, but figuring out which types of exercise stimulated the most neurogenesis seemed to be a guaranteed high-level publication maybe ten years ago.

It is true that there were some ethical complications with getting a definitive answer in humans, but those were pretty well obviated by a group of people who were given BrDU as part of some sort of medical therapy. When they died and their brains could be sectioned and stained it pretty much put the issue to rest even for those last few who were holding out on the basis of human exceptionalism. I could dig up the paper for you if you're interested. I think it came out in Science in maybe 1997 or 1998.


suprasoup


Sep 19, 2009, 5:19 PM
Post #126 of 231 (9548 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309

Re: [nivlac] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

nivlac wrote:
mr.tastycakes wrote:
I've never said strength training will improve your climbing. I'm interested in examining the reasons why some people believe it will be detrimental.

I've got no data to support my positions; actually, I don't have a position on this topic. I'm just interested in the basis of others' beliefs.

Any gymnasts on this thread or this site or anyone with knowledge related to that? I watch gymnasts with varying amounts of awe doing pommel horse, rings and the floor routine and think how applicable those movements are to climbing.

Does anyone know if gymnasts do any specific weight (strength) training? Even if they don't do weights, they definitely engage in strength training designed to improve their ability to perform difficult and complex movements that look applicable to climbing and gymnastics is definitely a gravity specific sport, much like climbing.

Gymnasts perform exercises where forearm and grip strength are paramount, yet also need good core strength etc. Wouldn't it seem reasonable to draw comparisons here? Wasn't Gill a former gymnast (meaning good gymnasts have the training to be very good climbers)?

Not gonna call myself a gymnast by any means, but I did do gymnastics when I was younger and was trained at Gold Cup Gymnastics in Albuquerque. The core of the workouts done by high level gymnasts (again my own personal experience watching, training and being trained by guys like Trent Dimas on a day to day basis) was body weight. (if you've ever attempted a planche pushup, iron cross, or front lever pullup you'll understand VERY quickly why) Off days they'd do general strength training: bench press, squats, etc. So I'm guessing 80-90% of their training is sport specific the other 10ish% is strength training to shore up weaknesses in individual gymnasts.
I "believe" that the training I received as a gymnast has allowed me to be the climber I am today. Anyone that has ever seen me climb knows that technique takes a backseat to my strength.


(This post was edited by suprasoup on Sep 19, 2009, 5:30 PM)


TerminalVelocity


Sep 19, 2009, 5:28 PM
Post #127 of 231 (9542 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 49

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
scion wrote:
aerili wrote:
you're born with all the brain cells you'll have
Actually, no, but please don't let that interrupt the beat-down. This is entertaining!

Well, I'm aware that there's some evidence that neural tissue regenerates after certain brain traumas (like stroke, etc.), and the only other evidence I'm aware of is brain cell growth in the hippocampus, which, let's face it, won't help TerminalVelocity with his higher thought process deficits.

P.S. Fwiw, I read that the research methodology for measuring the age of nerve cells is extremely complicated, especially in man, and gives unreliable and controversial results.

I see your thought process is at an extremely high level, copying those readings takes years of analyzing and reasearch.


suprasoup


Sep 19, 2009, 5:29 PM
Post #128 of 231 (9542 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309

Re: [scion] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

scion wrote:
aerili wrote:
Well, I'm aware that there's some evidence that neural tissue regenerates after certain brain traumas (like stroke, etc.), and the only other evidence I'm aware of is brain cell growth in the hippocampus, which, let's face it, won't help TerminalVelocity with his higher thought process deficits.

P.S. Fwiw, I read that the research methodology for measuring the age of nerve cells is extremely complicated, especially in man, and gives unreliable and controversial results.
Neurogenesis isn't limited to the hippocampus nor just as a result of trauma. That research was only tangentially related to mine, so I was never very up on it, but figuring out which types of exercise stimulated the most neurogenesis seemed to be a guaranteed high-level publication maybe ten years ago.

It is true that there were some ethical complications with getting a definitive answer in humans, but those were pretty well obviated by a group of people who were given BrDU as part of some sort of medical therapy. When they died and their brains could be sectioned and stained it pretty much put the issue to rest even for those last few who were holding out on the basis of human exceptionalism. I could dig up the paper for you if you're interested. I think it came out in Science in maybe 1997 or 1998.

I'd be interested in reading it if ya don't mind.


nivlac


Sep 19, 2009, 5:29 PM
Post #129 of 231 (9541 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2003
Posts: 141

Re: [suprasoup] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

That indirectly proves the point being made in this thread, no? That strength training is necessary to high performance in climbing-related activity. Or seems to be necessary.

Sorry that wasn't very scientific or a well-designed clinically robust double-blind study, but that's the best I can do on the interweb.

Any other gymnast types?


jumpmedialtd


Sep 19, 2009, 5:35 PM
Post #130 of 231 (9539 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2006
Posts: 17

Re: [nivlac] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Another vote for Crossfit. Can't be beat for getting stronger. Isolation work for tris or chest will just create different imbalances. I'm in best shape of my life at age 46. I don't climb as much as I'd like, but it has definitely helped my climbing as well.


onceahardman


Sep 19, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #131 of 231 (9537 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
I have myself strained a hamstring doing a hard heel hook, and I have treated climbers with similar injuries. The treatment? Hamstring strengthening, usually in closed chain, like modified stiff leg deadlifts (once sufficient healing had taken place.) The results? Exact same move later completed without re-injury.

Not a very compelling argument. "A" happened. Did "B". "A" didn't happen again. Therefore, lack of "B" caused "A".

Jay

Wow. I thought I spelled out the limitations, being a case study and all, but it is at the minimum, plausible that strength training of hamstrings limits hamstring strains.


Lets examine your "A" and "B" a little...

A man has angina (A) He has a stent put in (B), now, he no longer has angina. Compelling, or not?

A climber continually fails on a difficult route (A). He reads and implements the ideas in Self Coached Climber (B). Then he sends the route. Compelling? Apparently not.

If you are not aware of research into strengthening to prevent injury of hamstrings in athletes, perhaps you should get caught up.

If you think strength is never a factor on any climb, well, maybe consider that people climbing 2 full number grades higher than you disagree.

Don't get me wrong. Movement training dominates strength training in climbing. But strengthening is a non-zero factor.


suprasoup


Sep 19, 2009, 5:43 PM
Post #132 of 231 (9536 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309

Re: [nivlac] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

nivlac wrote:
That indirectly proves the point being made in this thread, no? That strength training is necessary to high performance in climbing-related activity. Or seems to be necessary.

Sorry that wasn't very scientific or a well-designed clinically robust double-blind study, but that's the best I can do on the interweb.

Any other gymnast types?

From my own experience with other high level gymnasts, climbers, bboys strength training, in some form or other, was incorporated to improve their performance in their sport. All anecdotal of course. I'd listen to Aerili if you want more than that. I'm too lazy to read up on all the current literature regarding these things.


(This post was edited by suprasoup on Sep 19, 2009, 5:47 PM)


johnwesely


Sep 19, 2009, 5:51 PM
Post #133 of 231 (9531 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

onceahardman wrote:

Don't get me wrong. Movement training dominates strength training in climbing. But strengthening is a non-zero factor.

I don't think anyone would venture to say strength training worthless for climbing because that is asinine. The argument is weather training with weights will positively or negatively affect climbing ability.


zeke_sf


Sep 19, 2009, 6:07 PM
Post #134 of 231 (9530 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [johnwesely] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johnwesely wrote:
whipper wrote:
WTF....
useless muscle mass???? 20 pounds? I am 6 foot tall, there is no way I could lose 20 pounds and be healthy.

I am six foot three and somewhere between 150 and 160 pounds and I do alright.

Damn, skinny! I'm 6 foot and 170 lbs, although when I did more weights and running I was between 180-185 lbs. Less weights, more roadbiking, and climbing seem to get me to 170lbs, but I'm pretty sure it all depends on your frame. I think I could hover around 165 if I cut out more of the fun in my life, but any lighter than that and I would start looking emaciated. Even at 10-15 lighter, I still feel like a monster man in a land of napoleon climber dudes.


onceahardman


Sep 19, 2009, 6:14 PM
Post #135 of 231 (9526 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [johnwesely] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I don't think anyone would venture to say strength training worthless for climbing because that is asinine. The argument is weather training with weights will positively or negatively affect climbing ability.

So, then, if you use an iron weight, or a resistance band, to provide load to a specific muscle in a specific direction, that will somehow have a negative effect, but if you use body weight to load the same muscle in the same direction, that will have a postive effect? Is that really the argument?


zeke_sf


Sep 19, 2009, 6:18 PM
Post #136 of 231 (9524 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [TerminalVelocity] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TerminalVelocity wrote:
aerili wrote:
scion wrote:
aerili wrote:
you're born with all the brain cells you'll have
Actually, no, but please don't let that interrupt the beat-down. This is entertaining!

Well, I'm aware that there's some evidence that neural tissue regenerates after certain brain traumas (like stroke, etc.), and the only other evidence I'm aware of is brain cell growth in the hippocampus, which, let's face it, won't help TerminalVelocity with his higher thought process deficits.

P.S. Fwiw, I read that the research methodology for measuring the age of nerve cells is extremely complicated, especially in man, and gives unreliable and controversial results.

I see your thought process is at an extremely high level, copying those readings takes years of analyzing and reasearch.

She actually uses those readings in her profession, whereas you've contributed diddley squat to back up your claims. She's not a man so she doesn't know about man muscle? Does a horse trainer have to be a horse? You look dumber with every post, but I'm sure you're just a gumby ass climber excited to pose as an authority on a subject he finally thinks he knows something about.


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 6:24 PM
Post #137 of 231 (9520 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

onceahardman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
I have myself strained a hamstring doing a hard heel hook, and I have treated climbers with similar injuries. The treatment? Hamstring strengthening, usually in closed chain, like modified stiff leg deadlifts (once sufficient healing had taken place.) The results? Exact same move later completed without re-injury.

Not a very compelling argument. "A" happened. Did "B". "A" didn't happen again. Therefore, lack of "B" caused "A".

Jay

Wow. I thought I spelled out the limitations, being a case study and all, but it is at the minimum, plausible that strength training of hamstrings limits hamstring strains.

Yes, it's plausible. I've always attributed muscle strains to insufficient warming up.

Jay


reno


Sep 19, 2009, 6:30 PM
Post #138 of 231 (9516 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

onceahardman wrote:
Lets examine your "A" and "B" a little...

A man has angina (A) He has a stent put in (B), now, he no longer has angina. Compelling, or not?

It's troubling that I find myself in agreement with JT, but on this issue, I don't think your angina analogy holds water.

The lack of a stent didn't CAUSE the angina. Coronary artery blockage (or vasospasm, in the case of Printzmetal's) led to myocardial hypoxia, and that hypoxia caused the angina. THe stent may have relieved the blockage, and by poxy relieved the angina, but that's a different issue.

Using that same analogy to the one about lifting weights to be a better climber, we could say that just placing a stent in the RCA, LAD, and Circumflex would prevent everyone from getting angina to begin with... and that ain't quite true, either.


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 6:30 PM
Post #139 of 231 (9515 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

onceahardman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
I have myself strained a hamstring doing a hard heel hook, and I have treated climbers with similar injuries. The treatment? Hamstring strengthening, usually in closed chain, like modified stiff leg deadlifts (once sufficient healing had taken place.) The results? Exact same move later completed without re-injury.

Not a very compelling argument. "A" happened. Did "B". "A" didn't happen again. Therefore, lack of "B" caused "A".

Jay

Wow. I thought I spelled out the limitations, being a case study and all, but it is at the minimum, plausible that strength training of hamstrings limits hamstring strains.


Lets examine your "A" and "B" a little...

A man has angina (A) He has a stent put in (B), now, he no longer has angina. Compelling, or not?

A climber continually fails on a difficult route (A). He reads and implements the ideas in Self Coached Climber (B). Then he sends the route. Compelling? Apparently not.

A climber pulls a hamstring. Rests for two weeks. Does no strength training, repeats the move, and doesn't pull a hamstring. Compelling or not?

A man has cancer. Prays to god. Cancer goes into remission. Compelling or not?

In reply to:
If you are not aware of research into strengthening to prevent injury of hamstrings in athletes, perhaps you should get caught up.

If you are aware of such research, why didn't you post it, instead of anecdotes, which are meaningless, as you can see from the above.

Jay


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 6:33 PM
Post #140 of 231 (9514 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [reno] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
It's troubling that I find myself in agreement with JT, but on this issue, I don't think your angina analogy holds water.

Troubled? You should be ecstatic!

Jay


aerili


Sep 19, 2009, 7:12 PM
Post #141 of 231 (9505 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
The OP wants to "bulk up." He has implied that he wants to gain 4 lb, just in his chest, and wants to be "balanced." How much mass in his legs will he have to gain to "balance" the four pounds of chest mass? Conservatively, 8 lb? So that's 12 lb right there. Yes, that is going to hinder his climbing. Like someone else said, if he doesn't believe that, he should just try strapping the weight on now, and see how it goes.

Jay

Tactix wrote:
I'm not looking to gain massive muscle or weight.


I think the OP is overestimating how much effort it would take to gain 4 lbs of lean mass alone in his chest (and what this would look like); I doubt it will happen.

But regardless, since you don't know the current size of his legs, either, there is no way to estimate how much weight he would have to add there to be "balanced" (whatever that means, it's totally subjective and there's no way to measure it, especially ahead of the fact).

Not to mention, Jay, that it is ridiculous to compare strapping on weights outside your body as being the equivalent to moving with the same poundage of extra lean mass. The way the body functions in both cases is totally not the same. This analogy would be far more applicable to adding fat weight--which doesn't do much of anything.


aerili


Sep 19, 2009, 7:20 PM
Post #142 of 231 (9503 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
I have myself strained a hamstring doing a hard heel hook, and I have treated climbers with similar injuries. The treatment? Hamstring strengthening, usually in closed chain, like modified stiff leg deadlifts (once sufficient healing had taken place.) The results? Exact same move later completed without re-injury.

Not a very compelling argument. "A" happened. Did "B". "A" didn't happen again. Therefore, lack of "B" caused "A".

Jay

Wow. I thought I spelled out the limitations, being a case study and all, but it is at the minimum, plausible that strength training of hamstrings limits hamstring strains.

Yes, it's plausible. I've always attributed muscle strains to insufficient warming up.

Jay

Most muscle strains involve some degree of weakness in the muscle in question. If rest alone really had a statistically significant likelihood of resolving the issue, then PTs would be doing a lot less business.


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 7:30 PM
Post #143 of 231 (9501 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

aerili wrote:
jt512 wrote:
The OP wants to "bulk up." He has implied that he wants to gain 4 lb, just in his chest, and wants to be "balanced." How much mass in his legs will he have to gain to "balance" the four pounds of chest mass? Conservatively, 8 lb? So that's 12 lb right there. Yes, that is going to hinder his climbing. Like someone else said, if he doesn't believe that, he should just try strapping the weight on now, and see how it goes.

Jay

Tactix wrote:
I'm not looking to gain massive muscle or weight.


I think the OP is overestimating how much effort it would take to gain 4 lbs of lean mass alone in his chest (and what this would look like); I doubt it will happen.

But regardless, since you don't know the current size of his legs, either, there is no way to estimate how much weight he would have to add there to be "balanced" (whatever that means, it's totally subjective and there's no way to measure it, especially ahead of the fact).

Not to mention, Jay, that it is ridiculous to compare strapping on weights outside your body as being the equivalent to moving with the same poundage of extra lean mass. The way the body functions in both cases is totally not the same. This analogy would be far more applicable to adding fat weight--which doesn't do much of anything.

Weight gained by bench pressing and squats isn't going be terribly useful for climbing. Strapping on weights is a good first approximation.

Jay


whipper


Sep 19, 2009, 7:54 PM
Post #144 of 231 (9496 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Your weight and lifting abilities would help to give you advice on chest and tri workouts. Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Squats, when done properly, are one of the best exercises you can do. It works your entire body. It also gives you great core strength (balance 300 pounds on your shoulders?) which is very applicable to climbing.

It would be stupid of me not to do squats. Unless I had a bad back or a bad knee problem

Or unless you wanted to become a good rock climber.

Jay

Right there Jay.
Yes, I did say that I am well built because, I am.
Sorry to seem cocky on that one, I really am not cocky, but I am not going to say I am a lard ass, now am I.
Terminal...its about 260 because I rarely max out, but when I am doing heavy weight days I do 3 sets of 4 reps with 235#s, so I would think that 260 is conservative.
Cross fit is also the bomb, so is anything that gets you strong. Why do people think that their way is the best way, being fit is my key to a good healthy life. Any way you go about it is great, I love to see people taking care of their bodies.
Also Jay, one of the keys to putting on chest size is working the shoulders. Shoulders are very prone to injury when you get to the higher grades, think overhanging gastons. I say keep your flexibility in them, but pack on as much muscle around them as you can. 4 pounds of muscle is not dead weight, so its not like strapping iron around your waist, do you really believe that, or are you just spouting random BS?
6'3" and 160 is fine if it works for you, I am not built that way. I think its all great, we are all different people here. What works for some doesnt for others, I am going to hit the gym now.


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 8:01 PM
Post #145 of 231 (9493 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Your weight and lifting abilities would help to give you advice on chest and tri workouts. Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Squats, when done properly, are one of the best exercises you can do. It works your entire body. It also gives you great core strength (balance 300 pounds on your shoulders?) which is very applicable to climbing.

It would be stupid of me not to do squats. Unless I had a bad back or a bad knee problem

Or unless you wanted to become a good rock climber.

Jay

Right there Jay.
Yes, I did say that I am well built because, I am.
Sorry to seem cocky on that one...

Oh, you didn't seem "cocky."

Jay


altelis


Sep 19, 2009, 8:23 PM
Post #146 of 231 (9489 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Your weight and lifting abilities would help to give you advice on chest and tri workouts. Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Squats, when done properly, are one of the best exercises you can do. It works your entire body. It also gives you great core strength (balance 300 pounds on your shoulders?) which is very applicable to climbing.

It would be stupid of me not to do squats. Unless I had a bad back or a bad knee problem

Or unless you wanted to become a good rock climber.

Jay

Right there Jay.
Yes, I did say that I am well built because, I am.
Sorry to seem cocky on that one, I really am not cocky, but I am not going to say I am a lard ass, now am I.
Terminal...its about 260 because I rarely max out, but when I am doing heavy weight days I do 3 sets of 4 reps with 235#s, so I would think that 260 is conservative.
Cross fit is also the bomb, so is anything that gets you strong. Why do people think that their way is the best way, being fit is my key to a good healthy life. Any way you go about it is great, I love to see people taking care of their bodies.
Also Jay, one of the keys to putting on chest size is working the shoulders. Shoulders are very prone to injury when you get to the higher grades, think overhanging gastons. I say keep your flexibility in them, but pack on as much muscle around them as you can. 4 pounds of muscle is not dead weight, so its not like strapping iron around your waist, do you really believe that, or are you just spouting random BS?
6'3" and 160 is fine if it works for you, I am not built that way. I think its all great, we are all different people here. What works for some doesnt for others, I am going to hit the gym now.

I'm not exactly sure what kind of "shoulder" injury you are referring to, but at least as far as I know a strong "chest" isn't really going to help. Especially in gaston type moves. Now, I just want to clarify that when people mention "strengthening your chest" they seem to mean "pecs", so that's what I'm working with here.

I would think that other muscle groups (like the rotator cuff muscles- and yes, I know one of them IS in your chest.....) would be more appropriate for staving off shoulder problems while climbing.

All that said, I don't know for sure. Think of this as a legitimate question in the form of a statement rather than me picking a fight. "Cause it really is just that. Maybe OAH or aerilli can help on this one.


And speaking of aerilli- I can't help but be anal retentive here....BUT neurons and brain cells are most DEFINITELY not the same thing. While the question of can we regrow/grow neurons during our life may or may not be a sticky subject, there is NO doubt that we do grow brain cells during our life. Don't forget the VAST majority of cells in our brain are glial cells, which have clear stem cell populations and have been pretty clearly demonstrated to repopulate our brains with new cells. True, these aren't neurons, but also true is you didn't specify....Wink


johnwesely


Sep 19, 2009, 8:58 PM
Post #147 of 231 (9481 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

onceahardman wrote:
In reply to:
I don't think anyone would venture to say strength training worthless for climbing because that is asinine. The argument is weather training with weights will positively or negatively affect climbing ability.

So, then, if you use an iron weight, or a resistance band, to provide load to a specific muscle in a specific direction, that will somehow have a negative effect, but if you use body weight to load the same muscle in the same direction, that will have a postive effect? Is that really the argument?

I really don't know any free weight exercises outside of the obvious ones, but none of the ones I know really mimic climbing.


onceahardman


Sep 19, 2009, 9:12 PM
Post #148 of 231 (9477 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [altelis] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

altelis wrote:
whipper wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Tactix23 wrote:
TerminalVelocity wrote:
Your weight and lifting abilities would help to give you advice on chest and tri workouts. Also skip all the squats and that shit. Instead kill two birds with one stone. Do a true nordic ski machine with the incline high, to develop your leg size and strength while also improving cardio and leg endurance.

Squats, when done properly, are one of the best exercises you can do. It works your entire body. It also gives you great core strength (balance 300 pounds on your shoulders?) which is very applicable to climbing.

It would be stupid of me not to do squats. Unless I had a bad back or a bad knee problem

Or unless you wanted to become a good rock climber.

Jay

Right there Jay.
Yes, I did say that I am well built because, I am.
Sorry to seem cocky on that one, I really am not cocky, but I am not going to say I am a lard ass, now am I.
Terminal...its about 260 because I rarely max out, but when I am doing heavy weight days I do 3 sets of 4 reps with 235#s, so I would think that 260 is conservative.
Cross fit is also the bomb, so is anything that gets you strong. Why do people think that their way is the best way, being fit is my key to a good healthy life. Any way you go about it is great, I love to see people taking care of their bodies.
Also Jay, one of the keys to putting on chest size is working the shoulders. Shoulders are very prone to injury when you get to the higher grades, think overhanging gastons. I say keep your flexibility in them, but pack on as much muscle around them as you can. 4 pounds of muscle is not dead weight, so its not like strapping iron around your waist, do you really believe that, or are you just spouting random BS?
6'3" and 160 is fine if it works for you, I am not built that way. I think its all great, we are all different people here. What works for some doesnt for others, I am going to hit the gym now.

I'm not exactly sure what kind of "shoulder" injury you are referring to, but at least as far as I know a strong "chest" isn't really going to help. Especially in gaston type moves. Now, I just want to clarify that when people mention "strengthening your chest" they seem to mean "pecs", so that's what I'm working with here.

I would think that other muscle groups (like the rotator cuff muscles- and yes, I know one of them IS in your chest.....) would be more appropriate for staving off shoulder problems while climbing.

All that said, I don't know for sure. Think of this as a legitimate question in the form of a statement rather than me picking a fight. "Cause it really is just that. Maybe OAH or aerilli can help on this one.


And speaking of aerilli- I can't help but be anal retentive here....BUT neurons and brain cells are most DEFINITELY not the same thing. While the question of can we regrow/grow neurons during our life may or may not be a sticky subject, there is NO doubt that we do grow brain cells during our life. Don't forget the VAST majority of cells in our brain are glial cells, which have clear stem cell populations and have been pretty clearly demonstrated to repopulate our brains with new cells. True, these aren't neurons, but also true is you didn't specify....Wink

Hmmm...a rotator cuff muscle in the chest?


onceahardman


Sep 19, 2009, 9:16 PM
Post #149 of 231 (9471 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Weight gained by bench pressing and squats isn't going be terribly useful for climbing. Strapping on weights is a good first approximation.

Do you have any supporting evidence, or, as usual, should we just believe you because you report to climb 2 1/2 number grades below world-class?


(This post was edited by onceahardman on Sep 19, 2009, 9:17 PM)


altelis


Sep 19, 2009, 9:21 PM
Post #150 of 231 (9467 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

well, subscapularis is just deep to pectoralis major, eh? though due to how deep it is i suppose back is a better description....

my thought on calling it a chest muscle is that it is visualized from an anterior view as opposed to a posterior view, and in terms of its position on the rostral/caudal axis being just about the same as pec major (the archetypical "chest" muscle) i thought that some smart-ass would call it a chest muscle so i tried to beat them to it, so to speak....


also, anatomy text books teach it as a shoulder muscle (of course). but then pec major is listed as a shoulder muscle, which is why i started my last post with all those quotes.....

all that said, what's your opinion of strengthening pec major in an effort to prevent shoulder injury from gaston type movements vs more directed strengthening of the rotator cuff?


onceahardman


Sep 19, 2009, 9:28 PM
Post #151 of 231 (9187 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [altelis] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
well, subscapularis is just deep to pectoralis major, eh? though due to how deep it is i suppose back is a better description....

If you dissect pectoralis major, you will not find subscapularis underneath, unless you are thinking about the orientation of their respective tendons as they relate to the humeral attachments. The muscle belly of subscapularis is pretty clearly a dorsal structure, while the muscle belly of pec major is ventral.


altelis


Sep 19, 2009, 9:33 PM
Post #152 of 231 (9185 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

my bad. i was ambiguous about the muscle belly and the insertion tendon. i was trying to be a smart-ass to a as-of-yet-not-voiced-silly-response to my post. i could just picture some one somewhere saying it was on the ventral aspect of the scapula so it would be in the chest....

i was being not clear and not funny at the same time.


all that said, i feel like my original (though obviously lost point) is further backed up. somebody (who i've now forgotten, though it doesn't matter who) stated that working out your chest would help to reduce shoulder injury from moves like a gaston. i was trying to say that i thought one's time would be better spent working out other muscle groups. what say you to that?


ClimbClimb


Sep 19, 2009, 9:48 PM
Post #153 of 231 (9178 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 389

Re: [altelis] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I both lift & climb. They can get in the way with each other sometimes. But it's worth trying to make time for both. Be careful with doing a lot of pullups, chinups or dips after climbing, for exaple.

But then again, I'm not an adherent to the "great climbers are stick figures", "do not have a lot of bulk", "it's not about strength" school of thought -- and my observations suggest the opposite. Namely, being muscular, especially upper body, abs & back, is strongly correlated with climbing performance.


jt512


Sep 19, 2009, 9:49 PM
Post #154 of 231 (9177 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [onceahardman] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

onceahardman wrote:
In reply to:
Weight gained by bench pressing and squats isn't going be terribly useful for climbing. Strapping on weights is a good first approximation.

Do you have any supporting evidence, or, as usual, should we just believe you because you report to climb 2 1/2 number grades below world-class?

Sorry. That study hasn't been done. Just have to rely on logic and experience.

Jay


whipper


Sep 19, 2009, 10:38 PM
Post #155 of 231 (9164 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think thats what we are all waiting on, Jay, is for you to rely on logic.


onceahardman


Sep 20, 2009, 12:03 AM
Post #156 of 231 (9154 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [altelis] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

yeah, I agree. I think that with all the back-intensive training climbers tend to get (through resistance training things like lock offs and fingerboards) that doing a bit of balancing might well keep shoulders healthy, though.

Tons of rotator cuff, too.


onceahardman


Sep 20, 2009, 12:08 AM
Post #157 of 231 (9152 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
In reply to:
Weight gained by bench pressing and squats isn't going be terribly useful for climbing. Strapping on weights is a good first approximation.

Do you have any supporting evidence, or, as usual, should we just believe you because you report to climb 2 1/2 number grades below world-class?

Sorry. That study hasn't been done. Just have to rely on logic and experience.

Jay

Well, I have answered questions on this very forum about hamstrings. Strong hamstrings don't tear as often. Squats, and the many variants thereof, are terrific hamstring strengtheners. Closed kinetic chain, too, so relatively safe for the knee ligaments.

Logic and experience dictate doing some hamstring strengthening, like squats, to avoid having your hammies let you down when you need them most.


theguy


Sep 20, 2009, 12:28 AM
Post #158 of 231 (9146 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 14, 2004
Posts: 469

Re: [nivlac] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

nivlac wrote:
Does anyone know if gymnasts do any specific weight (strength) training?

Bodyweight Gymnastics Training

nivlac wrote:
Wasn't Gill a former gymnast (meaning good gymnasts have the training to be very good climbers)?


You're right about Gill, but he continued gymnastics because "I wanted to build up my physique" , rather than due to a climbing benefit.

Lisa Rands and Lynn Hill were also gymnasts as children, so there may be something to your conclusion despite the folks on this site who say that training for other sports is sports-specific and doesn't apply to climbing.


aerili


Sep 20, 2009, 4:44 AM
Post #159 of 231 (9119 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Weight gained by bench pressing and squats isn't going be terribly useful for climbing. Strapping on weights is a good first approximation.
I continue to totally disagree [with the highlighted statement]. The pecs, the glutes, the quads, calves, hamstrings, and core are never inert when climbing--unlike weight strapped on to the outside of the body.

Of course there is a threshold for diminishing returns, but we are not talking about such an excessive amount of extra weight.

You are starting to sound more and more like you view climbing as all about the pull-up muscles.........haaaa.......(Like how I'm lighting your fire?)




theguy wrote:
Lisa Rands and Lynn Hill were also gymnasts as children, so there may be something to your conclusion despite the folks on this site who say that training for other sports is sports-specific and doesn't apply to climbing.
I think it's less about gymnastics skill transferring to climbing skill, guy, and more about the genetic features former gymnasts possess that transfer well to climbing: stuff like smaller stature, possibly stiffer tendons in the upper extremities, advantageous muscle insertions and more favorable body levers for pulling power, possible higher percentage of fast twitch muscle fibers, etc.


jt512


Sep 20, 2009, 6:24 AM
Post #160 of 231 (9110 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
I think thats what we are all waiting on, Jay, is for you to rely on logic.

Sure. It's completely logical to believe that squats and push-ups are important ingredients for climbing hard. Let's not forget swimming, and all the other "logical" exercises that have climbers on this site swear by.

Jay


degaine


Sep 20, 2009, 8:22 AM
Post #161 of 231 (9101 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 30, 2003
Posts: 491

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
I think thats what we are all waiting on, Jay, is for you to rely on logic.

Just out of curiosity, could you please explain how having huge, muscular legs (read heavy) will help you to climb at the top grades?


degaine


Sep 20, 2009, 8:23 AM
Post #162 of 231 (9098 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 30, 2003
Posts: 491

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
whipper wrote:
I think thats what we are all waiting on, Jay, is for you to rely on logic.

Sure. It's completely logical to believe that squats and push-ups are important ingredients for climbing hard. Let's not forget swimming, and all the other "logical" exercises that have climbers on this site swear by.

Jay

C'mon, Jay, we all know that underwater basket weaving helps with finger strength and dexterity for climbing!


jt512


Sep 20, 2009, 9:25 AM
Post #163 of 231 (9094 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [degaine] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

degaine wrote:
jt512 wrote:
whipper wrote:
I think thats what we are all waiting on, Jay, is for you to rely on logic.

Sure. It's completely logical to believe that squats and push-ups are important ingredients for climbing hard. Let's not forget swimming, and all the other "logical" exercises that have climbers on this site swear by.

Jay

C'mon, Jay, we all know that underwater basket weaving helps with finger strength and dexterity for climbing!

That, essentially, is what has been claimed on this site, over and over again—which, I take it, you have noticed.

Jay


theguy


Sep 20, 2009, 2:09 PM
Post #164 of 231 (9074 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 14, 2004
Posts: 469

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
Anyone on here who thinks JT's question about how hard the other guy climbed was for a "benchmark" feel free to post up.

Sorry, can't take that bait: just do a search for JT's posts on the importance of a control group.


whipper


Sep 20, 2009, 4:28 PM
Post #165 of 231 (9055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
whipper wrote:
I think thats what we are all waiting on, Jay, is for you to rely on logic.

Sure. It's completely logical to believe that squats and push-ups are important ingredients for climbing hard. Let's not forget swimming, and all the other "logical" exercises that have climbers on this site swear by.

Jay

Why do you think there are no other exercises that are good for climbing. I really do not understand. Do you think pro athletes only practice their sport exactly? Think sprinters, is all those guys do is sprint? No way, what good does a strong upper body do them?
What is it Jay that makes you the athourity on this? is it your mediocre ability? I am pretty sure the people educated in this are going against you. Is it how long you have been climbing? Why not admit that yes, it might help others? Hell it might help you, have you tried it? whats your background in lifting, Jay. How about swimming, ever tried it? it might push your onsight grade up. you never know untill you try, or are you OK with being mediocre?

And who said anything about "huge legs" we are talking lifting wieghts....NOT body building. what a bunch of idiots on here


jt512


Sep 20, 2009, 6:00 PM
Post #166 of 231 (9045 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
jt512 wrote:
whipper wrote:
I think thats what we are all waiting on, Jay, is for you to rely on logic.

Sure. It's completely logical to believe that squats and push-ups are important ingredients for climbing hard. Let's not forget swimming, and all the other "logical" exercises that have climbers on this site swear by.

Jay

Why do you think there are no other exercises that are good for climbing. I really do not understand. Do you think pro athletes only practice their sport exactly? Think sprinters, is all those guys do is sprint? No way, what good does a strong upper body do them?

Since you were "waiting for me to rely on logic" I'll simply point out that that is the beginning of straw man argument, and leave it at that.

In reply to:
What is it Jay that makes you the athourity on this? is it your mediocre ability? I am pretty sure the people educated in this are going against you. Is it how long you have been climbing?


And that that is an appeal to authority.

In reply to:
Why not admit that yes, it might help others? Hell it might help you, have you tried it? whats your background in lifting, Jay. How about swimming, ever tried it? it might push your onsight grade up. you never know untill you try, or are you OK with being mediocre?

There might be a giant teacup in orbit around Neptune, too. I'll never know, until I go up in a rocket ship. There is no reason to investigate every physically implausible hypotheses you can think of.

In reply to:
And who said anything about "huge legs" we are talking lifting wieghts....NOT body building. what a bunch of idiots on here

The OP is clearly talking about bodybuilding. He has already talked about gaining four pounds, just in his chest!

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 20, 2009, 6:12 PM)


whipper


Sep 20, 2009, 6:37 PM
Post #167 of 231 (9034 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
In reply to:
The OP is clearly talking about bodybuilding. He has already talked about gaining four pounds, just in his chest!

Jay

Do me a favor and read the OP. You dont know shit about body building. You simply can not put on that type of muscle with the workouts he talks about. Go into a wieght room and look around. What percentage look like "body builders"
I guess what has gotten me so rilled up is that people are saying "lifting wieght will hurt your climing" or "doing squats will hurt your climbing" the reallity is is that is just not the case. While it may not be right for everyone, its not going to hurt some people either. So lets say you blow a tendon in your hand. You can
1:sit around on your ass, and rest to recover
or
2: lift or swim untill your finger is healed
Who is going to come back stronger?


Look at Steve Petro, the guy is jacked and huge, Look at Jim Dunn, he is a lard ass (sorry Jim) They are both bad asses. You dont have to fit a mold here.
Jay, your last post was complete bullshit, "Straw man", "Teacups in orbit". Your pathetic. "climb 5.13 like I do"...oh wait, you dont. Why dont you go make fun of people who dont climb as hard as you now, thats about all you have to offer this site, it seems.


whipper


Sep 20, 2009, 6:42 PM
Post #168 of 231 (9031 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241

Re: [theguy] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

theguy wrote:
whipper wrote:
Anyone on here who thinks JT's question about how hard the other guy climbed was for a "benchmark" feel free to post up.

Sorry, can't take that bait: just do a search for JT's posts on the importance of a control group.

Hey Guy,
One person does not a "control group" make. Jay's point was to belittle the poster for his climbing ability...


sidepull


Sep 20, 2009, 7:13 PM
Post #169 of 231 (9023 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Since people keep asking for studies:

ABSTRACT. Myer, G.D., K.R. Ford, J.P. Palumbo, and T.E. Hewett. Neuromuscular training improves performance and lowerextremity biomechanics in female athletes. J. Strength Cond. Res. 19(1):51–60. 2005.—The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of a comprehensive neuromuscular training program on measures of performance and lower-extremity movement biomechanics in female athletes. The hypothesis was that significant improvements in measures of performance would be demonstrated concomitant with improved biomechanical measures related to anterior cruciate ligament injury risk. Forty-one female basketball, soccer, and volleyball players (age, 15.3 6 0.9 years; weight, 64.8 6 9.96 kg; height, 171.2 6 7.21 cm) underwent 6 weeks of training that included 4 main components (plyometric and movement, core strengthening and balance, resistance training, and speed training). Twelve age-, height-, and weight-matched controls underwent the same testing protocol twice 6 weeks apart. Trained athletes demonstrated increased predicted 1 repetition maximum squat (92%) and bench press (20%). Right and left single-leg hop distance increased 10.39 cm and 8.53 cm, respectively, and vertical jump also increased from 39.9 6 0.9 cm to 43.2 6 1.1 cm with training. Speed in a 9.1-m sprint improved from 1.80 6 0.02 seconds to 1.73 6 0.01 seconds. Pre- and posttest 3-dimensional motion analysis demonstrated increased knee flexion-extension range of motion during the landing phase of a vertical jump (right, 71.9 6 1.48 to 76.9 6 1.48; left, 71.3 6 1.58 to 77.3 6 1.48). Training decreased knee valgus (28%) and varus (38%) torques. Control subjects did not demonstrate significant alterations during the 6-week interval. The results of this study support the hypothesis that the combination of multiple-injury prevention-training components into a comprehensive program improves measures of performance and movement biomechanics.


sidepull


Sep 20, 2009, 7:24 PM
Post #170 of 231 (9018 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [sidepull] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

also relevant:

Dave MacLeod:
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/...ch-about-my-own.html

In reply to:
I don’t often talk much about my own training on this blog, but in my ongoing long term experiments on myself I’ve seen a really interesting trend this year.

I’ve always held the view that having a low body weight was really important for hard climbing, especially sport climbing. It used to be in fashion but then seemed to go out of fashion for a long while, perhaps because people were going about dieting the wrong way and ending up weak and unhappy! But I reckon being light should come more back into fashion again among anyone who wants to link more than a few moves on steep ground close to their limit.

My evidence? In the past 10 months I’ve been able to increase my grade from 8c to 9a. That’s a very quick progression at this end of the grading scale, especially for someone not so young these days. How did I do it? I lost 4.5 kgs.

Yes, it really was that simple.

Now, I should qualify that by saying the effect would not have happened had it not been for all other aspects of my training, tactics and approach being relatively close to optimal and my strategy for managing the weight loss very well thought through and researched. The dynamics of who would benefit from this type of adaptation, why and how and when to go about it is something I’ll be writing at length about (probably in a book quite soon).

But the basic message is clear – being light is pretty damn important for hard climbing.

If you feel otherwise, please comment below and I will argue you round!


sidepull


Sep 20, 2009, 7:27 PM
Post #171 of 231 (9016 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [sidepull] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

again, relevant:

Dave MacLeod
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/...ished-on-finger.html

In reply to:
My undergraduate research project investigating determinants of finger endurance in trained climbers was recently published in the Journal of Sport Sciences. You can see the details here or access the full paper if you have access to the scientific journals through an academic or other institution. A huge thanks to Stan Grant for encouraging me to keep going with the log preparation of the manuscript for submission and to everyone that worked with me on the paper and volunteered for the research itself.

We observed that climbers were not dramatically better at tolerating occlusive isometric contractions of the finger flexors (as you get in difficult climbing), but were surprisingly good at sustaining long periods of intermittent high force isometric contractions compared to untrained people. This could be down to an ability to perfuse the muscles very rapidly and recover from the contractions while reaching for the next hold. Not surprisingly, we also observed yet another confirmation that pure finger strength, and especially finger strength to weight ratio was a strong predictor of climbing level.

The intermittent isometric muscle contractions of our fingers in climbing are not that common in strength and endurance dependent sports, and there is still much to be learned about the exact causes of failure to maintain force output and sequence of chemical events that happen deep in the exercising muscle during fatigue.

Big up to anyone out there willing to take up this mantle and help us to learn more about the physiological limitations in climbing. The continued dramatic rises in the level of ability of the worlds top climbers really shows that we are nowhere yet, either with our understanding, or what could be done with it.


(This post was edited by sidepull on Sep 20, 2009, 7:30 PM)


sidepull


Sep 20, 2009, 7:30 PM
Post #172 of 231 (9015 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [sidepull] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

And finally:

Dave MacLeod
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/...urn-to-activity.html

In reply to:
Layoff vs slow return to activity
One of the main worries climbers have after getting an injury is whether to take a complete layoff from climbing activity and how long that layoff should be. Some reading about rehab in sport will tell you that extended layoffs are very bad news not only for losing form but also recovering from the injury. Here is quote from a review of strength training in sports rehab which really rams home the point:
"it is now clear that during the remodeling phase, occurring theoretically from the 21st day after injury and even lasting 300 to 500 days, the collagen tissue remodeling can only take place efficiently when put under stress (or load)."
The initial layoff (up to three weeks) allows the acute phase of the injury to pass (that is inflammation causing swelling, tenderness and lots of nasty chemicals in the wound). Beyond that, it takes training for the injury to respond with improvements in exactly the same way as normal training, except of course that it is starting from a very low load capability. What has to be remembered is that sporting function is not normal function. If you layoff for a long period, an injury will recover to the point it can handle what is being asked of it (i.e. lifting kettles, tapping keyboards in some people's case!). You would'nt stop climbing for six months and then jump back on your hardest grade would you? So if you have an injury where the capability of the damaged tissue drops to a very low level, you shouldn't let it languish at that level and then expect it to suddenly perform a massive jump in standard by starting normal climbing again.
The bottom line is, rehab from injury is (beyond the initial phase) analogous to normal training, with progressive overload to stimulate the tissue to respond. All the aspects of normal training also apply; monitoring of progress, regular and stuctured exercises, careful lifestyle support (which in this case will include rehab treatments like Lewis reaction icing, stretching and maybe friction massage).


sidepull


Sep 20, 2009, 7:40 PM
Post #173 of 231 (9011 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335

Re: [sidepull] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here's my second response to the OP (not that he'll read it), using the thread's title as a summation of his question:

Yes, many of us do lift weights - you can see it's a debated and sometimes divisive issue. But you weren't really asking about lifting weights as a way of improving your climbing, preventing injury, or anything "useful."

Few here lift weights to "look good." Go to another site for that info. Take your running back friend with you - you can rub fake tan on each other and take cool posing shots.


johnwesely


Sep 20, 2009, 7:40 PM
Post #174 of 231 (9010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

For the record. I have two friends who have redpointed 14a and they both do a fair amount of weight lifting.


theguy


Sep 20, 2009, 7:50 PM
Post #175 of 231 (9007 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 14, 2004
Posts: 469

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
theguy wrote:
whipper wrote:
Anyone on here who thinks JT's question about how hard the other guy climbed was for a "benchmark" feel free to post up.

Sorry, can't take that bait: just do a search for JT's posts on the importance of a control group.

Hey Guy,
One person does not a "control group" make. Jay's point was to belittle the poster for his climbing ability...

Oh dear...


jt512


Sep 20, 2009, 8:29 PM
Post #176 of 231 (9069 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [whipper] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

whipper wrote:
In reply to:
The OP is clearly talking about bodybuilding. He has already talked about gaining four pounds, just in his chest!

Jay

Do me a favor and read the OP. You dont know shit about body building. You simply can not put on that type of muscle with the workouts he talks about.

Actually, I know a good deal about it. The OP's goal is body building. Whether he can attain his goal with the workout he wants to do is not the point.

Now, have fun arguing with yourself, asshole.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 20, 2009, 8:29 PM)


MS1


Sep 20, 2009, 10:47 PM
Post #177 of 231 (9046 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 560

Re: [aerili] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Aerili: I grant you that squats will not necessarily limit performance (I'd be a fool to argue with you on that point); obviously it's possible to work out at a level that would tone muscles without bulking them up. But let's keep this in context: The OP has a weight-lifting goal of "adding lean muscle" to his body, and I imagine he will be planning his lifting and diet to further that goal. Maybe he is going to balance his muscle gains with fat loss, and if he manages to do so, I wouldn't expect him to see any loss in performance. But if lifting to gain muscle mass is his goal, I'd say there is a good chance he could end up setting back his climbing by weighing more than he needs to.

Do you really think that adding muscle mass to the legs and chest (as opposed to keeping the mass you have toned and strong) couldn't be detrimental to his climbing?


scion


Sep 21, 2009, 4:33 PM
Post #178 of 231 (8998 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 5, 2006
Posts: 39

Re: [suprasoup] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

suprasoup wrote:
scion wrote:
aerili wrote:
Well, I'm aware that there's some evidence that neural tissue regenerates after certain brain traumas (like stroke, etc.), and the only other evidence I'm aware of is brain cell growth in the hippocampus, which, let's face it, won't help TerminalVelocity with his higher thought process deficits.

P.S. Fwiw, I read that the research methodology for measuring the age of nerve cells is extremely complicated, especially in man, and gives unreliable and controversial results.
Neurogenesis isn't limited to the hippocampus nor just as a result of trauma. That research was only tangentially related to mine, so I was never very up on it, but figuring out which types of exercise stimulated the most neurogenesis seemed to be a guaranteed high-level publication maybe ten years ago.

It is true that there were some ethical complications with getting a definitive answer in humans, but those were pretty well obviated by a group of people who were given BrDU as part of some sort of medical therapy. When they died and their brains could be sectioned and stained it pretty much put the issue to rest even for those last few who were holding out on the basis of human exceptionalism. I could dig up the paper for you if you're interested. I think it came out in Science in maybe 1997 or 1998.

I'd be interested in reading it if ya don't mind.

I think this is the paper I was thinking of. It was published in Nature Medicine, not Science:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/...anel.Pubmed_RVDocSum


threebadfish


Sep 22, 2009, 10:36 PM
Post #179 of 231 (8943 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 26, 2009
Posts: 42

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What a rollercoaster of a thread...

I am in pretty good shape and have lifted weights almost my entire life, but I quickly learned that being light, flexible, and strong in the fingers have been more beneficial than how big my chest was.

If you insist on doing resistance training, stick with body-weight exercises. You can increase strength without increasing bulk. You may not see a performance increase on the rock but you will feel better about yourself and as long as you aren't putting on pounds, you shouldn't be able to hurt performance.

I think too all of this is at least partially dependent on the individual and how each person responds differently to different training. What improves some people's performance may hurt another person. For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff but still not even a fraction as beneficial as being out there climbing.


zeke_sf


Sep 22, 2009, 10:50 PM
Post #180 of 231 (8937 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [threebadfish] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Oh, crap, you just mentioned pullups as beneficial to climbing. Do you want to give JT512 an aneurysm?


jt512


Sep 22, 2009, 11:19 PM
Post #181 of 231 (8930 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [threebadfish] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

threebadfish wrote:
For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff....



Jay
Attachments: effect-of-pullups.jpg (47.1 KB)


kyleshea


Sep 22, 2009, 11:21 PM
Post #182 of 231 (8929 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 1716

Re: [zeke_sf] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

zeke_sf wrote:
Oh, crap, you just mentioned pullups as beneficial to climbing. Do you want to give JT512 an aneurysm?

if you focus on isolating your chest muscles while doing pullups you get evened out muscles and you climb harder too i did it for a month and now i can climb v5 in the gym, but only on the flat wall not the expert wall that is upside down and stuff


ClimbClimb


Sep 22, 2009, 11:46 PM
Post #183 of 231 (8912 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 389

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
You have to understand that to a weight lifterclimber, avoiding weight lifting is like a religion. If you question a weight lifter's trad climbers cherished beliefs, they react emotionally. I have no idea how such a mind-numbingly boring activity idea that strength exercise is bad for you can become a religion, but then again, religion itself is mind numbing, so perhaps I shouldn't be surprised.

Fixed that to capture the debate in a single concise paragraph. ;-)


zeke_sf


Sep 22, 2009, 11:49 PM
Post #184 of 231 (8910 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730

Re: [ClimbClimb] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You guys are SO getting killfiled. Not by me though. This is funny shit.


kyleshea


Sep 23, 2009, 12:03 AM
Post #185 of 231 (8900 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 1716

Re: [zeke_sf] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

zeke_sf wrote:
You guys are SO getting killfiled. Not by me though. This is funny shit.

i hope you dont mean me killfile sounds bad i was just trying to help the OP by letting him now he can do specific pullups to build muscles in his chest and help him climb really hard at the same time why would anybody have a problem with someone trying to help out


reno


Sep 23, 2009, 12:45 AM
Post #186 of 231 (8886 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [kyleshea] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kyleshea wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
Oh, crap, you just mentioned pullups as beneficial to climbing. Do you want to give JT512 an aneurysm?

if you focus on isolating your chest muscles while doing pullups you get evened out muscles and you climb harder too i did it for a month and now i can climb v5 in the gym, but only on the flat wall not the expert wall that is upside down and stuff

Just in case.

FYI, pull ups don't work your chest as much as they do other muscles. I'll let you figure out which other muscles on your own.

A question, though: which are more beneficial, pull ups with palm towards you, or away?


kyleshea


Sep 23, 2009, 1:21 AM
Post #187 of 231 (8873 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 1716

Re: [reno] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
kyleshea wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
Oh, crap, you just mentioned pullups as beneficial to climbing. Do you want to give JT512 an aneurysm?

if you focus on isolating your chest muscles while doing pullups you get evened out muscles and you climb harder too i did it for a month and now i can climb v5 in the gym, but only on the flat wall not the expert wall that is upside down and stuff

Just in case.

FYI, pull ups don't work your chest as much as they do other muscles. I'll let you figure out which other muscles on your own.

A question, though: which are more beneficial, pull ups with palm towards you, or away?

depends on how hairy they are.


ClimbClimb


Sep 23, 2009, 2:05 AM
Post #188 of 231 (8866 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 389

Re: [kyleshea] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kyleshea wrote:
reno wrote:
A question, though: which are more beneficial, pull ups with palm towards you, or away?

depends on how hairy they are.

LOL Smile

P.S. Pullups with palm towards you are not pullups, they're chinups.


andersjr


Sep 23, 2009, 11:02 AM
Post #189 of 231 (8841 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2005
Posts: 141

Re: [reno] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

reno wrote:
kyleshea wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
Oh, crap, you just mentioned pullups as beneficial to climbing. Do you want to give JT512 an aneurysm?

if you focus on isolating your chest muscles while doing pullups you get evened out muscles and you climb harder too i did it for a month and now i can climb v5 in the gym, but only on the flat wall not the expert wall that is upside down and stuff

Just in case.

FYI, pull ups don't work your chest as much as they do other muscles. I'll let you figure out which other muscles on your own.

A question, though: which are more beneficial, pull ups with palm towards you, or away?

pull-ups with a close grip (hands close together) will give the pecs more of a work out than a regular pull-up (i assume that is what kyleshea was talking about).

as your grip widens, the pull-up begins to work your lats more.

palms towards you works the bicep. palms away works the lats. how many times have you been climbing and needed to pull on a hold with your hand facing you?


serpico


Sep 23, 2009, 12:16 PM
Post #190 of 231 (8831 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2005
Posts: 139

Re: [andersjr] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
how many times have you been climbing and needed to pull on a hold with your hand facing you?

Every time I've ever used an undercut.


jt512


Sep 23, 2009, 12:23 PM
Post #191 of 231 (8828 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [serpico] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

serpico wrote:
In reply to:
how many times have you been climbing and needed to pull on a hold with your hand facing you?

Every time I've ever used an undercut.

The context for this question was the usefulness of chin-ups. Isn't pulling on an undercut usually done at chest level or lower?

Jay


serpico


Sep 23, 2009, 12:31 PM
Post #192 of 231 (8825 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2005
Posts: 139

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
serpico wrote:
In reply to:
how many times have you been climbing and needed to pull on a hold with your hand facing you?

Every time I've ever used an undercut.

The context for this question was the usefulness of chin-ups. Isn't pulling on an undercut usually done at chest level or lower?

Jay

The distribution of undercuts in the real world (not gyms) is pretty random, but the really nasty ones come at you above head height: crux of Zoolook, Power Ranger, The Oak, etc...
That's partly what supplemental strength training is about for me; being strong for those moves that you encounter infrequently, although with crags like Malham high undercuts are not that infrequent.


jt512


Sep 23, 2009, 12:45 PM
Post #193 of 231 (8821 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [serpico] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

serpico wrote:
That's partly what supplemental strength training is about for me; being strong for those moves that you encounter infrequently....

That actually makes sense.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 23, 2009, 12:47 PM)


csproul


Sep 23, 2009, 1:23 PM
Post #194 of 231 (8810 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
serpico wrote:
That's partly what supplemental strength training is about for me; being strong for those moves that you encounter infrequently....

That actually makes sense.

Jay
Of course it makes sense, it came from someone with a 5.13 profile!


andersjr


Sep 23, 2009, 3:22 PM
Post #195 of 231 (8795 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2005
Posts: 141

Re: [serpico] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

serpico wrote:
jt512 wrote:
serpico wrote:
In reply to:
how many times have you been climbing and needed to pull on a hold with your hand facing you?

Every time I've ever used an undercut.

The context for this question was the usefulness of chin-ups. Isn't pulling on an undercut usually done at chest level or lower?

Jay

The distribution of undercuts in the real world (not gyms) is pretty random, but the really nasty ones come at you above head height: crux of Zoolook, Power Ranger, The Oak, etc...
That's partly what supplemental strength training is about for me; being strong for those moves that you encounter infrequently, although with crags like Malham high undercuts are not that infrequent.

Underclings. Didn't even think about that.

I know this thread was built on evening out the body & building bulk. I am interested in the communities thoughts about weight training to lose weight and for injury prevention? How about doing light shoulder work to limit rotator cuff injuries?


serpico


Sep 23, 2009, 3:28 PM
Post #196 of 231 (8789 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2005
Posts: 139

Re: [csproul] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

csproul wrote:
jt512 wrote:
serpico wrote:
That's partly what supplemental strength training is about for me; being strong for those moves that you encounter infrequently....

That actually makes sense.

Jay
Of course it makes sense, it came from someone with a 5.13 profile!

I know a lot of people who climb 5.13 and above and some of us speak sense and some speak utter bollocks, the one thing we have in common is that we got to that grade by doing lots and lots of climbing outdoors. It's no coincidence that my entry into this grade came within a year or two of going from full time employment to self employment where I worked little and climbed much.
The supplemental strength training I do is always done after I've been to the crag. For someone working full time this realistically only leaves one evening at the weekend to add in some extra training - provided you don't live too far from the crag. During the week if you've got the time to go to the gym you've got time to go to the climbing wall where you're guaranteed better results.


jt512


Sep 23, 2009, 5:28 PM
Post #197 of 231 (8771 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [serpico] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

serpico wrote:
csproul wrote:
jt512 wrote:
serpico wrote:
That's partly what supplemental strength training is about for me; being strong for those moves that you encounter infrequently....

That actually makes sense.

Jay
Of course it makes sense, it came from someone with a 5.13 profile!

I know a lot of people who climb 5.13 and above and some of us speak sense and some speak utter bollocks, the one thing we have in common is that we got to that grade by doing lots and lots of climbing outdoors. It's no coincidence that my entry into this grade came within a year or two of going from full time employment to self employment where I worked little and climbed much.
The supplemental strength training I do is always done after I've been to the crag. For someone working full time this realistically only leaves one evening at the weekend to add in some extra training - provided you don't live too far from the crag. During the week if you've got the time to go to the gym you've got time to go to the climbing wall where you're guaranteed better results.

So I take it that you weight train on climbing days after climbing, so that your weight training doesn't hinder your climbing and doesn't take place on what otherwise would be rest days. Is that correct?

Jay


serpico


Sep 23, 2009, 6:08 PM
Post #198 of 231 (8756 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2005
Posts: 139

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
So I take it that you weight train on climbing days after climbing, so that your weight training doesn't hinder your climbing and doesn't take place on what otherwise would be rest days. Is that correct?

I prefer to call it conditioning because weights are only a small part of it; in a single session I might mix system board with finger board, body weight exercises and weights.
The rest of your post is correct, as I posted earlier doing some strength after climbing takes the pressure off trashing myself at the crag and means I can concentrate on getting a load of quality movement .
...and obviously just enjoying time climbing - it's too easy to forget what you're actually training for.


jt512


Sep 23, 2009, 6:52 PM
Post #199 of 231 (8743 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [serpico] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

serpico wrote:
In reply to:
So I take it that you weight train on climbing days after climbing, so that your weight training doesn't hinder your climbing and doesn't take place on what otherwise would be rest days. Is that correct?

I prefer to call it conditioning because weights are only a small part of it; in a single session I might mix system board with finger board, body weight exercises and weights.
The rest of your post is correct, as I posted earlier doing some strength after climbing takes the pressure off trashing myself at the crag and means I can concentrate on getting a load of quality movement .
...and obviously just enjoying time climbing - it's too easy to forget what you're actually training for.

Can I ask how you structure your time at the crags? Are you doing a lot of onsights, quick redpoints, etc.?

Jay


serpico


Sep 23, 2009, 7:26 PM
Post #200 of 231 (8728 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2005
Posts: 139

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Can I ask how you structure your time at the crags? Are you doing a lot of onsights, quick redpoints, etc.?

I don't really structure my time as such; whatever crag we end up at tends to decide what I'm going to do for the day. My preference is for onsights and quick redpoints but unfortunately with the sparsity of sport near me there aren't a lot of routes left for me to onsight so I generally have to go abroad to do that these days. When I'm forced into less than quick redpoints (some would say sieges) I always try to combine them with some mileage on routes I've done previously; typically 3-4 7a-7b warm ups and a couple of warm downs. I try to get a solely mileage day in at least once a week.
If I'm not working (currently not working for 2 weeks) I'll climb 3 days on, 1 day off, 2 days on, 1 day off, training after climbing twice a week before the rest day. On my rest days I'll work core.


hafilax


Sep 23, 2009, 7:38 PM
Post #201 of 231 (12831 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I keeping waiting for the jt gotcha but have to settle for an interesting Q&A. I think it deserves it's own thread.


jt512


Sep 23, 2009, 7:42 PM
Post #202 of 231 (12828 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [serpico] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

serpico wrote:
In reply to:
Can I ask how you structure your time at the crags? Are you doing a lot of onsights, quick redpoints, etc.?

I don't really structure my time as such; whatever crag we end up at tends to decide what I'm going to do for the day. My preference is for onsights and quick redpoints but unfortunately with the sparsity of sport near me there aren't a lot of routes left for me to onsight so I generally have to go abroad to do that these days. When I'm forced into less than quick redpoints (some would say sieges) I always try to combine them with some mileage on routes I've done previously; typically 3-4 7a-7b warm ups and a couple of warm downs. I try to get a solely mileage day in at least once a week.
If I'm not working (currently not working for 2 weeks) I'll climb 3 days on, 1 day off, 2 days on, 1 day off, training after climbing twice a week before the rest day. On my rest days I'll work core.

Wow! Five climbing days a week. Employed or not, I don't think my body could handle that.

Jay


serpico


Sep 23, 2009, 8:21 PM
Post #203 of 231 (12797 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2005
Posts: 139

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Wow! Five climbing days a week. Employed or not, I don't think my body could handle that.

Volume is a trainable attribute, many people train strength, power, endurance, flexibility... some of the more enlightened might even train technique, but most people don't even think about training to to tolerate a greater volume of climbing.


jt512


Sep 23, 2009, 8:34 PM
Post #204 of 231 (12788 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [serpico] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

serpico wrote:
In reply to:
Wow! Five climbing days a week. Employed or not, I don't think my body could handle that.

Volume is a trainable attribute, many people train strength, power, endurance, flexibility... some of the more enlightened might even train technique, but most people don't even think about training to to tolerate a greater volume of climbing.

I train volume per session, but I've never really considered training the volume of sessions per week. I'm not sure at the physiologic level what you would be training. Recovery?

Jay


serpico


Sep 23, 2009, 8:53 PM
Post #205 of 231 (12778 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2005
Posts: 139

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I train volume per session, but I've never really considered training the volume of sessions per week. I'm not sure at the physiologic level what you would be training. Recovery?

You can definitely train volume on a per session basis but I find that there's still a limit to how much quality work you can achieve in a single session before fatigue compromises it. I think in a purely training context 3hrs of work will be of higher quality and will yield better results if you split into 2x 1hr30 sessions on consecutive days rather than a single 3hr session.
As for what you're actually training with multiple days on you're training recovery - glycogen storage etc, but also on a much longer time scale stronger connective tissue and specific bone hypertrophy, as well as a more frequent stimulus for whatever adaptations you were training for in the individual sessions.
Aerili could be more specific I suspect.


el_layclimber


Sep 23, 2009, 9:17 PM
Post #206 of 231 (12771 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2006
Posts: 550

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
serpico wrote:
In reply to:
how many times have you been climbing and needed to pull on a hold with your hand facing you?

Every time I've ever used an undercut.

The context for this question was the usefulness of chin-ups. Isn't pulling on an undercut usually done at chest level or lower?

Jay
You do most of your pulling at waist level or lower.


threebadfish


Sep 24, 2009, 3:35 PM
Post #207 of 231 (12732 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 26, 2009
Posts: 42

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff....



Jay

For pumpy climbing pull-ups have helped - for me. Are you refuting that?

I climb 5 days a week, and don't run back to my computer every night and enter every route I do.


jt512


Sep 24, 2009, 5:25 PM
Post #208 of 231 (12721 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [threebadfish] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff....



Jay

For pumpy climbing pull-ups have helped - for me. Are you refuting that?

I'm refuting that two things: (1) that you've climbed a pumpy route; and (2) that, if you did, that pullups would make it any less pumpy.

Are you sure you know what "pumpy" means?

Jay


threebadfish


Sep 24, 2009, 5:47 PM
Post #209 of 231 (12712 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 26, 2009
Posts: 42

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff....



Jay

For pumpy climbing pull-ups have helped - for me. Are you refuting that?

I'm refuting that two things: (1) that you've climbed a pumpy route; and (2) that, if you did, that pullups would make it any less pumpy.

Are you sure you know what "pumpy" means?

Jay

Less pumpy? Try "easier, less tiring".

So my original point, that pull-ups can be beneficial for pumpy climbs, you aren't refuting that fact? I'm not here to prove how bad-ass I am, because I'm not, nor is that relevant at all. I'm here to learn and share information.


jt512


Sep 24, 2009, 5:54 PM
Post #210 of 231 (12709 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [threebadfish] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff....



Jay

For pumpy climbing pull-ups have helped - for me. Are you refuting that?

I'm refuting that two things: (1) that you've climbed a pumpy route; and (2) that, if you did, that pullups would make it any less pumpy.

Are you sure you know what "pumpy" means?

Jay

Less pumpy? Try "easier, less tiring".

So my original point, that pull-ups can be beneficial for pumpy climbs, you aren't refuting that fact?

Logic not your strong point. I forgot. We learned that in the other thread. Yes, as I said above, I am refuting that pullups will be of significant value in making pumpy climbs less pumpy.

Jay


threebadfish


Sep 24, 2009, 5:56 PM
Post #211 of 231 (12705 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 26, 2009
Posts: 42

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff....



Jay

For pumpy climbing pull-ups have helped - for me. Are you refuting that?

I'm refuting that two things: (1) that you've climbed a pumpy route; and (2) that, if you did, that pullups would make it any less pumpy.

Are you sure you know what "pumpy" means?

Jay

Less pumpy? Try "easier, less tiring".

So my original point, that pull-ups can be beneficial for pumpy climbs, you aren't refuting that fact?

Logic not your strong point. I forgot. We learned that in the other thread. Yes, as I said above, I am refuting that pullups will be of significant value in making pumpy climbs less pumpy.

Jay

You keep rephrasing what I am saying, do you not realize that? I didn't say anything about less pumpy, but easier and/or less tiring.


jt512


Sep 24, 2009, 6:02 PM
Post #212 of 231 (12700 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [threebadfish] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff....



Jay

For pumpy climbing pull-ups have helped - for me. Are you refuting that?

I'm refuting that two things: (1) that you've climbed a pumpy route; and (2) that, if you did, that pullups would make it any less pumpy.

Are you sure you know what "pumpy" means?

Jay

Less pumpy? Try "easier, less tiring".

So my original point, that pull-ups can be beneficial for pumpy climbs, you aren't refuting that fact?

Logic not your strong point. I forgot. We learned that in the other thread. Yes, as I said above, I am refuting that pullups will be of significant value in making pumpy climbs less pumpy.

Jay

You keep rephrasing what I am saying, do you not realize that? I didn't say anything about less pumpy, but easier and/or less tiring.

I'm trying to phrase your hypothesis clearly and sensibly. If you don't mean that pullups make pumpy climbs less pumpy, but that they make pumpy climbs easier in some other sense, then what does the pumpiness of the climb have to do with anything?

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 24, 2009, 6:02 PM)


altelis


Sep 24, 2009, 6:06 PM
Post #213 of 231 (12692 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [jt512] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:

I'm trying to phrase your hypothesis clearly and sensibly. If you don't mean that pullups make pumpy climbs less pumpy, but that they make pumpy climbs easier in some other sense, then what does the pumpiness of the climb have to do with anything?

Jay
let's not confuse him any further here, jay. if you make his point too easy to understand he may finally realize why he makes no senseBlush


disturbingthepeace


Sep 24, 2009, 9:48 PM
Post #214 of 231 (12659 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 57

Re: [threebadfish] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff....



Jay

For pumpy climbing pull-ups have helped - for me. Are you refuting that?

I climb 5 days a week, and don't run back to my computer every night and enter every route I do.

Why do you think that pull-ups / dips have helped you with pumpy climbing? I've never been pumped while climbing in any of the major pull-up muscles. It's always my forearms that have given out. I've been so pumped that I couldn't close my fingers, but never all that tired in my shoulders, lat's, or upper arms.

Hmm, one thing that pullups might help with in pumpy overhanging routes is "boinking" to get back on the wall if you fall off, but "walking the rope" is normally easier.

As you mentioned in your original post I'd stick with climbing / climbing related training to get better at pumpy routes. (4 x 4's). Just curious as to why you think these exercises have helped especially on pumpy routes.


suprasoup


Sep 24, 2009, 9:57 PM
Post #215 of 231 (12652 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309

Re: [disturbingthepeace] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

disturbingthepeace wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
jt512 wrote:
threebadfish wrote:
For me pull-ups and dips have been beneficial on pumpy stuff....



Jay

For pumpy climbing pull-ups have helped - for me. Are you refuting that?

I climb 5 days a week, and don't run back to my computer every night and enter every route I do.

Why do you think that pull-ups / dips have helped you with pumpy climbing? I've never been pumped while climbing in any of the major pull-up muscles. It's always my forearms that have given out. I've been so pumped that I couldn't close my fingers, but never all that tired in my shoulders, lat's, or upper arms.

Hmm, one thing that pullups might help with in pumpy overhanging routes is "boinking" to get back on the wall if you fall off, but "walking the rope" is normally easier.

As you mentioned in your original post I'd stick with climbing / climbing related training to get better at pumpy routes. (4 x 4's). Just curious as to why you think these exercises have helped especially on pumpy routes.

You're in the wrong thread DTP. I think there was one about when to utilize drop kneesLaugh


disturbingthepeace


Sep 24, 2009, 11:01 PM
Post #216 of 231 (12637 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 57

Re: [suprasoup] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well you should of course utilize dropknees whenever theoretically possible. That works out to at least one drop knee for every hand movement. Now if only training pull-ups transferred into being able to get more drop knees per route then I would be set. Tongue


dugl33


Oct 20, 2009, 10:56 PM
Post #217 of 231 (12554 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I tend to run thin (5-10, 150 with boots on) and for me spending some time weight training has never seemed detrimental to climbing.

If pure difficulty is your game, then I imagine your limited time is best spent climbing outside supplemented with climbing-gym time and bouldering, with fairly minimal antagonistic time to keep a little muscle balance and healthy joints.

On the other hand, if your game includes lugging 65 pound pigs up the slabs approach to half dome, and your legs get shaky bringing in the groceries from the car, maybe those squats aren't such a bad idea. And if you can't easily press out a mantle, then maybe some dips and bench press wouldn't kill you. If you feel like your biceps are going to come un-glued on that long undercling muscle-fuck traverse or jugging yet another pitch, then some curls might be in order. If your legs are so skinny you can't get a decent knee jam in that leaning off-width... well... and your calves are melting after pitch after pitch of endless friction... umm ... and if you have no chest and you're hoping to draw in the babes like moths to a pectoral flame... well...

not all climbing is the same, not all climbers are the same. Personally I'd need to eat like a real pig and lift like an absolute animal to gain any significant weight, especially any not compensated for by increased strength, endurance, faster recovery and better control. Also I bet you'd have to work your ass off to add 4 lbs to your chest -- go buy four pounds of steak and see how much meat that really is. (You very well might lack the genetics to accomplish this regardless of your efforts.)

Final food for thought:

I have a good friend who climbs pretty hard, in the V7, 12+ range, and he swears lifting has helped his climbing.

I also remember a real a meat-head friend who was strong as fuck and I watched him struggle and unnecessarily muscle his way up a relatively easy climb due to poor technique, arriving at the belay like Conan with veins popping, sweating like a dog, and totally gassed. Now he lifts less, runs a bit, and climbs more often and better.

Why not just experiment for a while and see what works for YOU?


saint_john


Feb 21, 2011, 9:04 PM
Post #218 of 231 (12260 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 4, 2010
Posts: 494

Re: [dugl33] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dugl33 wrote:
I tend to run thin (5-10, 150 with boots on) and for me spending some time weight training has never seemed detrimental to climbing.

If pure difficulty is your game, then I imagine your limited time is best spent climbing outside supplemented with climbing-gym time and bouldering, with fairly minimal antagonistic time to keep a little muscle balance and healthy joints.

On the other hand, if your game includes lugging 65 pound pigs up the slabs approach to half dome, and your legs get shaky bringing in the groceries from the car, maybe those squats aren't such a bad idea. And if you can't easily press out a mantle, then maybe some dips and bench press wouldn't kill you. If you feel like your biceps are going to come un-glued on that long undercling muscle-fuck traverse or jugging yet another pitch, then some curls might be in order. If your legs are so skinny you can't get a decent knee jam in that leaning off-width... well... and your calves are melting after pitch after pitch of endless friction... umm ... and if you have no chest and you're hoping to draw in the babes like moths to a pectoral flame... well...

not all climbing is the same, not all climbers are the same. Personally I'd need to eat like a real pig and lift like an absolute animal to gain any significant weight, especially any not compensated for by increased strength, endurance, faster recovery and better control. Also I bet you'd have to work your ass off to add 4 lbs to your chest -- go buy four pounds of steak and see how much meat that really is. (You very well might lack the genetics to accomplish this regardless of your efforts.)

Final food for thought:

I have a good friend who climbs pretty hard, in the V7, 12+ range, and he swears lifting has helped his climbing.

I also remember a real a meat-head friend who was strong as fuck and I watched him struggle and unnecessarily muscle his way up a relatively easy climb due to poor technique, arriving at the belay like Conan with veins popping, sweating like a dog, and totally gassed. Now he lifts less, runs a bit, and climbs more often and better.

Why not just experiment for a while and see what works for YOU?

nice post, but this is the internet. logic and rational thinking are not allowed.


justroberto


Feb 21, 2011, 10:31 PM
Post #219 of 231 (12224 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [saint_john] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

saint_john wrote:
dugl33 wrote:
I tend to run thin (5-10, 150 with boots on) and for me spending some time weight training has never seemed detrimental to climbing.

If pure difficulty is your game, then I imagine your limited time is best spent climbing outside supplemented with climbing-gym time and bouldering, with fairly minimal antagonistic time to keep a little muscle balance and healthy joints.

On the other hand, if your game includes lugging 65 pound pigs up the slabs approach to half dome, and your legs get shaky bringing in the groceries from the car, maybe those squats aren't such a bad idea. And if you can't easily press out a mantle, then maybe some dips and bench press wouldn't kill you. If you feel like your biceps are going to come un-glued on that long undercling muscle-fuck traverse or jugging yet another pitch, then some curls might be in order. If your legs are so skinny you can't get a decent knee jam in that leaning off-width... well... and your calves are melting after pitch after pitch of endless friction... umm ... and if you have no chest and you're hoping to draw in the babes like moths to a pectoral flame... well...

not all climbing is the same, not all climbers are the same. Personally I'd need to eat like a real pig and lift like an absolute animal to gain any significant weight, especially any not compensated for by increased strength, endurance, faster recovery and better control. Also I bet you'd have to work your ass off to add 4 lbs to your chest -- go buy four pounds of steak and see how much meat that really is. (You very well might lack the genetics to accomplish this regardless of your efforts.)

Final food for thought:

I have a good friend who climbs pretty hard, in the V7, 12+ range, and he swears lifting has helped his climbing.

I also remember a real a meat-head friend who was strong as fuck and I watched him struggle and unnecessarily muscle his way up a relatively easy climb due to poor technique, arriving at the belay like Conan with veins popping, sweating like a dog, and totally gassed. Now he lifts less, runs a bit, and climbs more often and better.

Why not just experiment for a while and see what works for YOU?

nice post, but this is the internet. logic and rational thinking are not allowed.
You're on quite the rampage today of responding to years-old threads.


saint_john


Feb 21, 2011, 10:48 PM
Post #220 of 231 (12218 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 4, 2010
Posts: 494

Re: [justroberto] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

very slow day at the office


hafilax


Feb 22, 2011, 12:45 AM
Post #221 of 231 (12198 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [saint_john] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In the name of science I am in the middle of a little experiment in crossfit as cross training for climbing. I decided to pick up a new hobby after years of being a mediocre gym climber (stuck at soft 5.11d/V5 for a few years) and have now been doing crossfit for about a year now with no gym climbing and no outdoor climbing since about September. Since lifts have improved as follows:
Back Squat: 180->255#
Overhead squat: 95->125#
Deadlift: 200->350#
Bench:125->150#
Press:115->135#
Weighted pullup: ->60#

I can do about 40 consecutive kipping pullups and maybe 18 or so strict. 10 consecutive ring dips. I can also do a kipping muscle-up. My clean and jerk is 185 and snatch 140ish. I'm still a beginner lifter so the lifts go up by quite a bit each time I revisit them.

I also ran a half marathon in August with a total of 3 training runs and managed a time of 1:45 which I was pretty proud of but totally wrecked me for a week. I even entered a couple of crossfit competitions and didn't come in last.

My general fitness has improved by a huge margin. Hiking and backcountry skiing are now effortless as far as the legs are concerned. No DOMS or major muscle fatigue. When I go back to climbing this summer it will be interesting to see if I will be able to climb any better. I have been doing crossfit a lot more than I was gym climbing (3-4 times/week vs 1-2 times/week). I have the feeling that I will have to put in some time getting the endurance back that my climbing level won't be that much different. Outside I am very skill and fear limited since I don't get out that often and am still getting over a big fall I had. In the gym I might be able to climb harder especially in the steep juggy climbs with big moves.

I'll report back once climbing season starts here which will be in a month or so. IME from the breaks I've taken from climbing, the absolute strength comes back quickly and the endurance takes a little longer. The question is whether I will be able to surpass where I was before in any aspects.


Grizvok


May 18, 2011, 3:46 AM
Post #222 of 231 (11957 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 1, 2008
Posts: 153

Re: [hafilax] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hafilax wrote:
In the name of science I am in the middle of a little experiment in crossfit as cross training for climbing. I decided to pick up a new hobby after years of being a mediocre gym climber (stuck at soft 5.11d/V5 for a few years) and have now been doing crossfit for about a year now with no gym climbing and no outdoor climbing since about September. Since lifts have improved as follows:
Back Squat: 180->255#
Overhead squat: 95->125#
Deadlift: 200->350#
Bench:125->150#
Press:115->135#
Weighted pullup: ->60#

I can do about 40 consecutive kipping pullups and maybe 18 or so strict. 10 consecutive ring dips. I can also do a kipping muscle-up. My clean and jerk is 185 and snatch 140ish. I'm still a beginner lifter so the lifts go up by quite a bit each time I revisit them.

I also ran a half marathon in August with a total of 3 training runs and managed a time of 1:45 which I was pretty proud of but totally wrecked me for a week. I even entered a couple of crossfit competitions and didn't come in last.

My general fitness has improved by a huge margin. Hiking and backcountry skiing are now effortless as far as the legs are concerned. No DOMS or major muscle fatigue. When I go back to climbing this summer it will be interesting to see if I will be able to climb any better. I have been doing crossfit a lot more than I was gym climbing (3-4 times/week vs 1-2 times/week). I have the feeling that I will have to put in some time getting the endurance back that my climbing level won't be that much different. Outside I am very skill and fear limited since I don't get out that often and am still getting over a big fall I had. In the gym I might be able to climb harder especially in the steep juggy climbs with big moves.

I'll report back once climbing season starts here which will be in a month or so. IME from the breaks I've taken from climbing, the absolute strength comes back quickly and the endurance takes a little longer. The question is whether I will be able to surpass where I was before in any aspects.

What has happened to your weight and bodyfat percentages?

When I started climbing I was 6'2 155 and not in the best condition maybe 14-15% bf...I ended up about 150 and 12-13% after about a year so 6-7 months ago I decided to start lifting and have went from that to 6'2 180 at around 12% using some smaller cut/bulk cycles. I ultimately want to get to 6'2 190 at 12% and then go on a cut to 8% at whatever weight that would be. I've been climbing some but not nearly as much as I used to (maybe 2-3 times a month whereas I was going 3-4 times a week) and am the same at bouldering and better at toprope/leading. I've improved my conditioning a lot and muscle mass quite a bit and am genuinely excited as to if/how it will improve my climbing. I really didn't do it for climbing I was just bummed about having no muscle mass so decided to do something about it and weight lifting plus a calorie surplus did wonders and wonders.


ceebo


May 18, 2011, 10:29 AM
Post #223 of 231 (11890 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [serpico] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

serpico wrote:
In reply to:
I train volume per session, but I've never really considered training the volume of sessions per week. I'm not sure at the physiologic level what you would be training. Recovery?

You can definitely train volume on a per session basis but I find that there's still a limit to how much quality work you can achieve in a single session before fatigue compromises it. I think in a purely training context 3hrs of work will be of higher quality and will yield better results if you split into 2x 1hr30 sessions on consecutive days rather than a single 3hr session.
As for what you're actually training with multiple days on you're training recovery - glycogen storage etc, but also on a much longer time scale stronger connective tissue and specific bone hypertrophy, as well as a more frequent stimulus for whatever adaptations you were training for in the individual sessions.
Aerili could be more specific I suspect.

I can not recall what book i read this in but it said the exact opposite. I did structure my training around this concept, so i would like more views on what approach is right.

Oh wait... i read it wrong. Nvm Blush


(This post was edited by ceebo on May 18, 2011, 10:53 AM)


flesh


May 19, 2011, 5:39 PM
Post #224 of 231 (11814 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 419

Re: [ceebo] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

I believe weight lifting will provide zero results. It adds unnecessary weight. If your goal is to climb harder not to look better, just do high rep low weight antagonistic workouts, shoulders, pushups, reverse wrist curls, etc.

If you want to train your core, why not just do it climbing, since you want better core climbing muscles. Try bouldering on an overhang with a weight vest on, you will be stronger from fingers to toes. Or doing one arm lockoffs with both or one foot on in different body positions. Also you could boulder with tennis shoes on and purposely keep your feet on. IMO, overhanging bouldering with a weight vest on yields the best results for core.

My brother is 6 1 190 7% fat, lots of muscle, lifts weight 5 days a week for 5 years now. It's just to much weight. His fingers hurt, his skin hurts, and his endurance is horrible.


Rudmin


May 19, 2011, 6:15 PM
Post #225 of 231 (11806 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606

Re: [Tactix23] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Lifting weights turns you into a douchbag and here is the proof:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ENbUij8KHY


Grizvok


May 19, 2011, 6:50 PM
Post #226 of 231 (3914 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 1, 2008
Posts: 153

Re: [flesh] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
I believe weight lifting will provide zero results. It adds unnecessary weight. If your goal is to climb harder not to look better, just do high rep low weight antagonistic workouts, shoulders, pushups, reverse wrist curls, etc.

If you want to train your core, why not just do it climbing, since you want better core climbing muscles. Try bouldering on an overhang with a weight vest on, you will be stronger from fingers to toes. Or doing one arm lockoffs with both or one foot on in different body positions. Also you could boulder with tennis shoes on and purposely keep your feet on. IMO, overhanging bouldering with a weight vest on yields the best results for core.

My brother is 6 1 190 7% fat, lots of muscle, lifts weight 5 days a week for 5 years now. It's just to much weight. His fingers hurt, his skin hurts, and his endurance is horrible.

Eh. My buddy is 6'2 195 11% bf boulders v8 and leads 5.12.

Furthermore you didn't read all of what I said. My plan is to get to 190 lbs at 12% and then cut down to 8-10% which would leave me in pretty good climbing shape and still relatively light. In fact it would leave me at around 170 which is fine. The amount of muscle I had before was pathetic and strength was my huge weakness. It has also helped my body composition tremendously.

And you just compared a lifter you does not climb to a climber...what do you expect the result to be? You can strengthen your fingers SOME lifting weights for sure but all of the different angles/pinch/crimp and general local endurance probably aren't going to be emphasized by somebody trying to get big.


dave13226


May 19, 2011, 6:50 PM
Post #227 of 231 (3912 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 10, 2011
Posts: 1

Adult Content
This post contains nudity or adult content. To protect the innocent we require that you register and turn off your Adult Content Filter to read it.


hafilax


May 19, 2011, 10:18 PM
Post #228 of 231 (3876 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [Grizvok] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Grizvok wrote:
hafilax wrote:
In the name of science I am in the middle of a little experiment in crossfit as cross training for climbing. I decided to pick up a new hobby after years of being a mediocre gym climber (stuck at soft 5.11d/V5 for a few years) and have now been doing crossfit for about a year now with no gym climbing and no outdoor climbing since about September. Since lifts have improved as follows:
Back Squat: 180->255#
Overhead squat: 95->125#
Deadlift: 200->350#
Bench:125->150#
Press:115->135#
Weighted pullup: ->60#

I can do about 40 consecutive kipping pullups and maybe 18 or so strict. 10 consecutive ring dips. I can also do a kipping muscle-up. My clean and jerk is 185 and snatch 140ish. I'm still a beginner lifter so the lifts go up by quite a bit each time I revisit them.

I also ran a half marathon in August with a total of 3 training runs and managed a time of 1:45 which I was pretty proud of but totally wrecked me for a week. I even entered a couple of crossfit competitions and didn't come in last.

My general fitness has improved by a huge margin. Hiking and backcountry skiing are now effortless as far as the legs are concerned. No DOMS or major muscle fatigue. When I go back to climbing this summer it will be interesting to see if I will be able to climb any better. I have been doing crossfit a lot more than I was gym climbing (3-4 times/week vs 1-2 times/week). I have the feeling that I will have to put in some time getting the endurance back that my climbing level won't be that much different. Outside I am very skill and fear limited since I don't get out that often and am still getting over a big fall I had. In the gym I might be able to climb harder especially in the steep juggy climbs with big moves.

I'll report back once climbing season starts here which will be in a month or so. IME from the breaks I've taken from climbing, the absolute strength comes back quickly and the endurance takes a little longer. The question is whether I will be able to surpass where I was before in any aspects.

What has happened to your weight and bodyfat percentages?

When I started climbing I was 6'2 155 and not in the best condition maybe 14-15% bf...I ended up about 150 and 12-13% after about a year so 6-7 months ago I decided to start lifting and have went from that to 6'2 180 at around 12% using some smaller cut/bulk cycles. I ultimately want to get to 6'2 190 at 12% and then go on a cut to 8% at whatever weight that would be. I've been climbing some but not nearly as much as I used to (maybe 2-3 times a month whereas I was going 3-4 times a week) and am the same at bouldering and better at toprope/leading. I've improved my conditioning a lot and muscle mass quite a bit and am genuinely excited as to if/how it will improve my climbing. I really didn't do it for climbing I was just bummed about having no muscle mass so decided to do something about it and weight lifting plus a calorie surplus did wonders and wonders.
I'm still the same size as when I started crossfit @ 5'8" 160# since I'm not eating like a body builder. I have no idea about body fat % but don't want it to get low. I don't have defined abs so I might guess that it's 16-18%.

One thing that I've learned so far is that you can become much stronger without putting on much weight. My numbers are already quite a bit higher than what I posted above.


flesh


May 19, 2011, 10:47 PM
Post #229 of 231 (3874 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 419

Re: [Grizvok] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Grizvok wrote:
flesh wrote:
I believe weight lifting will provide zero results. It adds unnecessary weight. If your goal is to climb harder not to look better, just do high rep low weight antagonistic workouts, shoulders, pushups, reverse wrist curls, etc.

If you want to train your core, why not just do it climbing, since you want better core climbing muscles. Try bouldering on an overhang with a weight vest on, you will be stronger from fingers to toes. Or doing one arm lockoffs with both or one foot on in different body positions. Also you could boulder with tennis shoes on and purposely keep your feet on. IMO, overhanging bouldering with a weight vest on yields the best results for core.

My brother is 6 1 190 7% fat, lots of muscle, lifts weight 5 days a week for 5 years now. It's just to much weight. His fingers hurt, his skin hurts, and his endurance is horrible.

Eh. My buddy is 6'2 195 11% bf boulders v8 and leads 5.12.

Furthermore you didn't read all of what I said. My plan is to get to 190 lbs at 12% and then cut down to 8-10% which would leave me in pretty good climbing shape and still relatively light. In fact it would leave me at around 170 which is fine. The amount of muscle I had before was pathetic and strength was my huge weakness. It has also helped my body composition tremendously.

And you just compared a lifter you does not climb to a climber...what do you expect the result to be? You can strengthen your fingers SOME lifting weights for sure but all of the different angles/pinch/crimp and general local endurance probably aren't going to be emphasized by somebody trying to get big.

My brother the weight lifter, boulder v7 FYI

62 170 is a good goal. It won't hurt you to do some sstrength training, just try not to put on much muscle, do medium weight 10-15 reps till failure.

Also, just because your buddy can climb v8 at 195 doesn't mean he wouldn't climb v10-v11 at 165-170. LIke I said, if your primary goal is to climb better not to look better, you don't want any unnessary weight.

If you weigh 190 at 12% fat, you would only have 1% body fat at 170, assuming you kept the muscle. I don't recommend this.


jt512


May 20, 2011, 3:00 AM
Post #230 of 231 (3843 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [flesh] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
Grizvok wrote:
flesh wrote:
I believe weight lifting will provide zero results. It adds unnecessary weight. If your goal is to climb harder not to look better, just do high rep low weight antagonistic workouts, shoulders, pushups, reverse wrist curls, etc.

If you want to train your core, why not just do it climbing, since you want better core climbing muscles. Try bouldering on an overhang with a weight vest on, you will be stronger from fingers to toes. Or doing one arm lockoffs with both or one foot on in different body positions. Also you could boulder with tennis shoes on and purposely keep your feet on. IMO, overhanging bouldering with a weight vest on yields the best results for core.

My brother is 6 1 190 7% fat, lots of muscle, lifts weight 5 days a week for 5 years now. It's just to much weight. His fingers hurt, his skin hurts, and his endurance is horrible.

Eh. My buddy is 6'2 195 11% bf boulders v8 and leads 5.12.

Furthermore you didn't read all of what I said. My plan is to get to 190 lbs at 12% and then cut down to 8-10% which would leave me in pretty good climbing shape and still relatively light. In fact it would leave me at around 170 which is fine. The amount of muscle I had before was pathetic and strength was my huge weakness. It has also helped my body composition tremendously.

And you just compared a lifter you does not climb to a climber...what do you expect the result to be? You can strengthen your fingers SOME lifting weights for sure but all of the different angles/pinch/crimp and general local endurance probably aren't going to be emphasized by somebody trying to get big.

My brother the weight lifter, boulder v7 FYI

62 170 is a good goal. It won't hurt you to do some sstrength training, just try not to put on much muscle, do medium weight 10-15 reps till failure.

Also, just because your buddy can climb v8 at 195 doesn't mean he wouldn't climb v10-v11 at 165-170. LIke I said, if your primary goal is to climb better not to look better, you don't want any unnessary weight.

If you weigh 190 at 12% fat, you would only have 1% body fat at 170, assuming you kept the muscle. I don't recommend this.

There's a word for 1% body fat: dead.

Jay


nopainogain


Jun 1, 2011, 3:21 PM
Post #231 of 231 (3652 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2011
Posts: 4

Re: [flesh] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i weigh 211, am 5'9" and wouldn't sacrifice my mass for anything. I love the climbs, i love getting over an edge or using really tiny crimper holds successfully but I wouldnt lose 40lbs to be faster at it.

I powerlifted (squat deadlift bench, not a bodybuilder) for years. Love it, enjoy it, spot for high school and amateur events in my area 2-3 times a year. Sure the 140lb guys that are shredded like cole slaw are amazing on the verts and overhangs but That's their thing, this is mine.


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook