I like the solo with the rope...what is that for like a just in case situation?

.

Stupid? maybe. But how many times does someone fall soloing and live to tell about it? let alone not even get hurt. Lets not forget all the Soloists out there that we all idiolized who lost their lives because of it. Derek Hersey fell on a 5.8, while he soloed half a dozen .11's every day. Would you call Alex Honnold stupid? If you would, then you just dont get it.

I think the rope was there for the other newer climbers there that day. Hes done the route 50+ times without falling, so he just decided to solo it. I dont know why he didn't take off his harness and stuff, but the little bit of friction that he got from grabbing the rope probably saved him.

Stupid? maybe. But how many times does someone fall soloing and live to tell about it? let alone not even get hurt. Lets not forget all the Soloists out there that we all idiolized who lost their lives because of it. Derek Hersey fell on a 5.8, while he soloed half a dozen .11's every day. Would you call Alex Honnold stupid? If you would, then you just dont get it.

. Would you call Alex Honnold stupid? If you would, then you just dont get it.

what an asshole

I don't get this - why is he an asshole?
I understand the comments concerning foolishnesss and stupidity, but saying he's an asshole doesn't make sense.

Listen to the shit stream flowing out of his mouth.

What do you want to bet that he's not going to forget that day for a while.

Listen to the shit stream flowing out of his mouth.

I don't get this - why is he an asshole?
I understand the comments concerning foolishnesss and stupidity, but saying he's an asshole doesn't make sense.

It seems to me it was the classic sitting around with friends talking and climbing and suddenly, for a number of reasons, soloing the route seems like a good idea, so he hops on. he didn't pull the rope probably because people were going to do the route after him, but maybe he also wanted to be able to grab it if he got sketched.

Either way, I'm glad he was okay both for his sake and the sake of the beginners present. Seeing something like that turn out badly can fuck with you for years...

Pete, mind clearing up why the rope was there and how he decided to solo it? Was it because of the cameras (who hasn't ever fallen prey to being a little extra showey to the lens?) or just because he wanted to or whatever? did he decide to keep the rope there or did he just not bother to pull it?

winner winner chicken dinner. the dude obviously thought he was the shit, and it was pretty clear he was doing it for the benefit of the camera and to wow the folks down on the ground. so not only does he put himself in harms way, he puts it on everybody there to bail him out if things go south. hence asshole.

agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds

gUmBy

Thank you magnus..

My friends asked me to borrow my cameras for a day, Mike said he was going to try this 5.12 project of his until he did it. Then i guess he was just feeling good, he lead the 5.9 climb to set-up the rope for the other beginners there for the um-teenth time, and said, "hey i've never fallen on this climb, i might as well solo it!" The crux move on that climb is a little sandbagged, i've been on 10's that feel easier. And its a friction move, you have a shitty 2-finger pocket with your left hand, then you get your right foot way up on a really slopy bump and you have to stand up on it slowly, it feel like its going to pop off.

I think there deffinately was too much of his Ego in play, he says he was just feeling a little too confident and didn't respect the climb as much as he should. Mike and I dont have cameras or spectators 99% of the time we're scrabling or soloing or doing something "stupid". This was a rare ocasion that i think taught him a valuable lesson without too much penalty.

When they first showed me the raw video i didn't even know he fell, no one told me he even soloed that day. So i'm watching it, and i start bitching like, "Man why didn't you take down the rope and take your harness off and stuff, i dont even want to show this to anyone now." They just said keep watching. Then i was like, "Oh Shit!" I tried to keep the surprize factor in the name of the clip, i didn't want to give it away.

He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.

He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.

Heh, I definitely got a shock.
Thanks for your views. I definitely figured he was being a bit showy. Generally movement is much slower/controlled when the rope is not there.

Although another thing to think about... did the presence of the rope make him extra cocky?

I think so personally. I haven't had the chance to really talk to him about it, he was still kinda in shock a few days ago. But the rope being there, maybe he thought it as a way out if things went bad, subconciously. In soloing its probably better to just think falling = death. Deffinately not Mike at his best. haha But i had to put it out there, hows many good decking videos have you seen?

Interesting comment - he may be stronger than me. There are plenty of gumbies/spraylords/noobs/rock jocks/dickheads/etc that are stronger than me. I'm not the one that posted a video of my climbing and can't take criticism. I'm just saying...

This guy is ego tripping. Hes talking to the camera like he is Chris Sharma or something. This dude has seen too many climbing videos. I agree with an earlier post that foolish people can endanger and become a burden on OTHER people at the crag...

No, you just don't get it. No one is calling Hersey (who fell off a 9+, not an 8 btw) or Honnold stupid. We're just calling this idiot in the video stupid...

http://www.vimeo.com/7858740

Check it out, tell me what you think!

Or if you prefer youtube - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwg8peo9hok

http://www.vimeo.com/7858740

Check it out, tell me what you think!

Or if you prefer youtube - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwg8peo9hok

as far as the video goes, it was put together well. thanks for sharing.

haha thank you! All this negativity was making me doubt my editing skills.

A fair point. Yore editing abilities are far greater then your friend's ability to not crater.

I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this.

And the guy in the video was NOT an oldschool badass.

Not disagreeing with you there....but what do you consider someone who never wore socks in any of his climbing shoes for the first 14 years of climbing, but now always wears socks in at least one pair of his shoes....?
It's a riddle, but I'll give you a tip.....I am also not an oldschool badass

why does my original statement ring so true?

Not disagreeing with you there....but what do you consider someone who never wore socks in any of his climbing shoes for the first 14 years of climbing, but now always wears socks in at least one pair of his shoes....?
It's a riddle, but I'll give you a tip.....I am also not an oldschool badass

Because 99% of the time, it is true.
I am simply proposing that the other 1% might be the middle ground that you claim doesn't exist.
.....or I am a complete gumby

I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this...

[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/193136-largest_29281.jpg[/image]

Curt

Curt

Curt

The crux move on that climb is a little sandbagged, i've been on 10's that feel easier. And its a friction move, you have a shitty 2-finger pocket with your left hand, then you get your right foot way up on a really slopy bump and you have to stand up on it slowly, it feel like its going to pop off.

Sorry, I have to disagree. I don't think GYB is sandbagged at 5.9. Once you're past the thin start, it's a one-move route. I'm not a hard or bold climber, and you and your friend probably climb harder than I do. I don't think claiming the route is sandbagged paints him in a better light.

I'm glad your friend is okay. The ground in the pit there isn't great, and you have that big shelf a short way out from the base. Even though it's a short route, clipping that with your head may well be the end of you.

I have yet to free solo, so I can't contribute to that discussion. I've found the idea tempting on longer, easier routes, where you could really get into the flow of the moves. The idea of free soloing at a short sport crag like Breakneck has little appeal.

It kind of reminds me of gritstone routes because of the friction type moves with landings that will mess you up quite a bit but most likely not kill you.

That right there shows that you haven't been around much gritstone climbing.

(OT) Hey Magnus--how is Burbage anyway? I've only been to Froggat and Stanage.

Curt

You have?

I mean you cant really compare breakneck to "UK gritstone" logically. Breakneck is a sport crag.

I guess i'm just saying the consequense for falling when your soloing at breakneck would be similar to the consequnce of falling while doing a grit stone route. Either way, the idea is not to fall, so it really doesn't matter.

You have to solo for yourself, by yourself. When you have to have to have the camera on you to do it, your doing it for the wrong reasons.

No, but I have a very good friend who climbs grit around 100 days a year then comes back to the U.S. and climbs all over the country for another 100. Climbing with my friend over the past five years I have gained a good understanding of Grit climbing and how it compares to the climbing around the U.S.


Yet you did.



Actually it dose matter. Falling on a typical Gritstone route generally means your dead or at best you won't be climbing the rest of the season while you wait for your bones to heal.

You seem to think that falling un-roped at Breakneck will mess you up but not kill you.

Now to me those differences do matter.

Oh i forgot that I see you at breakneck all the time. You surely know exactly what its like there.

Why dont you go do some gritstone, then come do some soloing at breakneck? You'll be able to compare your injuries because you surely will fall in both places, seeing that you max out at 5.10.

Oh i forgot that I see you at breakneck all the time. You surely know exactly what its like there.Why dont you go do some gritstone, then come do some soloing at breakneck?

You'll be able to compare your injuries because you surely will fall in both places, seeing that you max out at 5.10.

Besides, I wouldn't free solo a route with such a zoo of people around me.

Oh i forgot that I see you at breakneck all the time. You surely know exactly what its like there.

Why dont you go do some gritstone, then come do some soloing at breakneck? You'll be able to compare your injuries because you surely will fall in both places, seeing that you max out at 5.10.

You vastly overestimate the grade and seriousness of the majority of gritstone routes. =)

Heh; last time I soloed something it was in the middle of a zoo of people. I wanted to climb, was kind of cranky, and right after one group of people pulled their toprope, and another was getting ready to queue up, I butted in line and ran up it. It shut all the gumbies up, definitely.

But, I did not fall, and most importantly, I WAS NOT WEARING SOCKS!

Heh; last time I soloed something it was in the middle of a zoo of people. I wanted to climb, was kind of cranky, and right after one group of people pulled their toprope, and another was getting ready to queue up, I butted in line and ran up it. It shut all the gumbies up, definitely.

But, I did not fall, and most importantly, I WAS NOT WEARING SOCKS!

Breakneck to me has alot of solo appeal...because of the friction type moves

with landings that will mess you up quite a bit but most likely not kill you.

Your persisting with this notion in the face of what happened to your friend is baffling to me.



If your more concerned about the landing than the nature of the climbing when contemplating a solo your on the wrong track my friend.

And please don't think I'm trying to talk shit about your or your buddy because I'm not. My point is that your approach to/attitude about soloing is pretty scary and I seriously think you should re-evaluate.

That guy was totally out of control. He slopped his feet and body position all over that route. From the very beginning he climbed with a complete lack of body tension or precision. As a result, his feet slipped. I hope he learned his lesson and won't have to stoke his ego with solos in front of a group of climbers anymore...

the bolded above bears repeating:

if you're more concerned about the landing than the nature of the climbing when contemplating a solo you're on the wrong track.

Yeah if your contemplating a solo and you find yourself tossing "survivability of the landing" on the scale, it's time to just walk away.

IMO anyway.

Yeah if your contemplating a solo and you find yourself tossing "survivability of the landing" on the scale, it's time to just walk away.

IMO anyway.

Thank you magnus..

My friends asked me to borrow my cameras for a day, Mike said he was going to try this 5.12 project of his until he did it. Then i guess he was just feeling good, he lead the 5.9 climb to set-up the rope for the other beginners there for the um-teenth time, and said, "hey i've never fallen on this climb, i might as well solo it!" The crux move on that climb is a little sandbagged, i've been on 10's that feel easier. And its a friction move, you have a shitty 2-finger pocket with your left hand, then you get your right foot way up on a really slopy bump and you have to stand up on it slowly, it feel like its going to pop off.

I think there deffinately was too much of his Ego in play, he says he was just feeling a little too confident and didn't respect the climb as much as he should. Mike and I dont have cameras or spectators 99% of the time we're scrabling or soloing or doing something "stupid". This was a rare ocasion that i think taught him a valuable lesson without too much penalty.

When they first showed me the raw video i didn't even know he fell, no one told me he even soloed that day. So i'm watching it, and i start bitching like, "Man why didn't you take down the rope and take your harness off and stuff, i dont even want to show this to anyone now." They just said keep watching. Then i was like, "Oh Shit!" I tried to keep the surprize factor in the name of the clip, i didn't want to give it away.

He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.

i am baffled by that guys arrogance. his injuries could have... should have been worse.

Baffled? He's late teens early 20s and even still does not know what mortality means, nor the pain of broken back.

Give him time... this dude will learn those lessons.

I did.

DMT

Werner Braun.

NEXT!

DMT

Got me there dingus, never pays to speak in absolutes. But, in general, soloing not so good for your health in the long run, eh?

Puuulllleeeese ...

Not that I'm advocating anything here, but Peter Croft was one of the most accomplished trad climbers of the twentieth century, and cranked out some of the radest most badass solos I've ever seen. So let's not forget him ... huh?

I can't think of any climbers notorious for soloing that are alive, but there's a lot of ones that have passed.

But, in general, soloing not so good for your health in the long run, eh?

Most every climber I know solos some... its a sliding scale (pun to OP video incidental (and the incidental pun was NOT accidental, and the accidental pun wasn't either) from 3rd and 4th class into the 5th... and sometimes we find ourselves 'suddenly soloing.'


DMT

I can't pass a yay or nay value judgment on it like that. Soloing is a big tent that includes a lot of nebulous and spur of the moment decision making, particularly in the mountain environment.

Most every climber I know solos some... its a sliding scale (pun to OP video incidental (and the incidental pun was NOT accidental, and the accidental pun wasn't either) from 3rd and 4th class into the 5th... and sometimes we find ourselves 'suddenly soloing.'

You know, folks point out 'why is his harness on' as if that had some meaning, or that it is improper for a soloist to wear one at all.

These folks aren't soloist material either is my guess.

DMT

Well I'm not just talking about the situations we find ourselves in on lead.

I've soloed 5.8 'approaches' in approach shoes, for example.

Or down climbed 'its not that bad' 50' inside 5.8 corner system, in fading light.

Of 'let's just climb till one of us needs the rope' 3 pitches up a wilderness climb.

And the things we do on 3rd and 4th class terrain, merde!

There is something about showing off in front of a camera. And yet... just how DID we see those images of Honold or Croft or any of the other 'do it for yourself' soloists?

Hmmmm.

DMT

There is something about showing off in front of a camera. And yet... just how DID we see those images of Honold or Croft or any of the other 'do it for yourself' soloists?

Hmmmm.

DMT

You have to solo for yourself, by yourself. When you have to have to have the camera on you to do it, your doing it for the wrong reasons.

What a tool. Anyone who free solos for spectators or a camera is not ready to be soloing.

For sure ... if you do enough long routes, alpine routes, that kind of thing, at some point you will find yourself in a situation where you have to keep climbing even though falling is not an option. While this, strictly speaking may not be "soloing" it does mean being able to push through difficulties even though a fall could mean death for both you and your partner. Some people have the stomach for this kind of climbing and some people don't. But it's part of the game for the alpinist.