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billcoe_
Dec 1, 2009, 5:15 AM
Post #151 of 794
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camhead wrote: Any other noteworthy additions to the list?
Yes: Add the great Montana climber and soloist Dwight Bishop who died falling on his 2nd trip cordless of the major Teton Mountains in preparation to being the first for free solo all 12, or whateverthe hell it is, major Teton mountains in the Winter. That he fell on a 5.8 despite having soloed both the North Face of the Eiger, all of Tetons in a single freesolo continuous push earlier and freesolo of 5.13 should scare the hell out of us mortals.
Watching Bachar run laps cordless in JT would do it as well.
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notapplicable
Dec 1, 2009, 5:20 AM
Post #152 of 794
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billcoe_ wrote: That he fell on a 5.8 despite having soloed both the North Face of the Eiger, all of Tetons in a single freesolo continuous push earlier and freesolo of 5.13 should scare the hell out of us mortals.
That is pretty damn spooky.
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kylekienitz
Dec 1, 2009, 7:05 AM
Post #161 of 794
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Registered: Apr 25, 2005
Posts: 256
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This is all quite entertaining. I haven't heard so much spraying in a long time, coming from both sides of the argument.
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kriso9tails
Dec 1, 2009, 7:34 AM
Post #162 of 794
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Registered: Jul 1, 2001
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carabiner96 wrote: Rong. Too tired/lazy to research now, but in skiing, climbing, etc. there have been examples of privately and publicly owned areas being closed to certain kinds of access. Off the top of my head is Bear Creek in Telluride, which closes for a few seasons after someone dies. I'm not claiming to know the conditions at Breakneck or if your buddy had got hurt it would close, but I'm just saying...you never know.
I've never heard of an actual case of a crag closing due to a specific injury or fatality. I'm not saying in any certain terms that it's never happened, but it seems to be exceptional at best, at least where any notable crags are concerned.
To the point, I sort of wonder if there's really anything behind the righteous indignation of those that get all bent out of shape about soloists threatening access. When I was still a teenager, I pulled that line before, but eventually I realized that I, personally, couldn't back it up with anything.
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ryanb
Dec 1, 2009, 7:40 AM
Post #163 of 794
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Registered: Nov 4, 2004
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ingrahamd wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: . Would you call Alex Honnold stupid? If you would, then you just dont get it. Honnold is the man, Son! Obviously this guy doesn't get it, and quite frankly I don't solo, so I don't pretend to get either. If you look at someone like Honnold, he'll go and solo Half Dome and tell nobody. Why? Because he does it for himself. I heard an interview with him (this is going back sometime) on podclimber, and he even said he only told his one buddy that had belayed him the day before. Honnold solos for himself and I think that's why you solo, not to try and pick up that blonde chick he almost hit on the way down...
I'll call Honald stupid. There were camera crews rigged on his half dome solo. I don't think that equals not telling anyone...
I have met 4 climbers in my life who soloed at a high level (5.12, 5.11 onsite, 5.11 down climbing, big stuff in the mountains)...real climbers though, none of them particularly famous or sponsored... they might tell you about some of the stuff they'd done or you might hear about it from others but you won't read about it in the mags.
These people are machines on the rock, strong enough to hang out and test every hold for loose rock, reverse any move, down climb the whole route if they need to.
3 of them don't solo anymore...one because he died soloing, one because he miraculously survived a hugh tumbling fall in the mountains and the 3d saw too many friends and heros die doing it.
The 4th lives in a POS mini van you will see if you spend enough time at world class crags in north america.
Soloing is stupid. People like Honald just solo 'cause they want free shoes and can't keep up with Caldwell on a rope.
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spikeddem
Dec 1, 2009, 7:42 AM
Post #164 of 794
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T20 and faked video to boot.
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codhands
Dec 1, 2009, 7:51 AM
Post #165 of 794
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Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 499
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I thought the guy got very lucky. Had the rope not been there that rock in the LZ would have been brutal. I wonder how this has chganged him. I don't fault his free solo because we all MUST follow our bliss, but damn! That could have been so UN-blissful.
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ingrahamd
Dec 1, 2009, 7:55 AM
Post #166 of 794
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Registered: Aug 22, 2009
Posts: 14
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ryanb wrote: ingrahamd wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: . Would you call Alex Honnold stupid? If you would, then you just dont get it. Honnold is the man, Son! Obviously this guy doesn't get it, and quite frankly I don't solo, so I don't pretend to get either. If you look at someone like Honnold, he'll go and solo Half Dome and tell nobody. Why? Because he does it for himself. I heard an interview with him (this is going back sometime) on podclimber, and he even said he only told his one buddy that had belayed him the day before. Honnold solos for himself and I think that's why you solo, not to try and pick up that blonde chick he almost hit on the way down... I'll call Honald stupid. There were camera crews rigged on his half dome solo. I don't think that equals not telling anyone... I have met 4 climbers in my life who soloed at a high level (5.12, 5.11 onsite, 5.11 down climbing, big stuff in the mountains)...real climbers though, none of them particularly famous or sponsored... they might tell you about some of the stuff they'd done or you might hear about it from others but you won't read about it in the mags. These people are machines on the rock, strong enough to hang out and test every hold for loose rock, reverse any move, down climb the whole route if they need to. 3 of them don't solo anymore...one because he died soloing, one because he miraculously survived a hugh tumbling fall in the mountains and the 3d saw too many friends and heros die doing it. The 4th lives in a POS mini van you will see if you spend enough time at world class crags in north america. Soloing is stupid. People like Honald just solo 'cause they want free shoes and can't keep up with Caldwell on a rope.
Alright,Pal. I'm not sure if Honnold soloed Half Dome again, but I know for a fact that the first time he soloed it....he was solo. Maybe you're thing of the Moonligh Butress?? I know he soloed that, too.
Now as far as climbing for free shoes goes... I'm pretty sure Alex Honnold doesn't NEED to solo Half Dome or anything to get free pair of shoes!? Come on dude. If you can Solo MB, I'm pretty sure you already climb at a level that'll score you some free shoes....
Some people just don't think it through...
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king_rat
Dec 1, 2009, 12:32 PM
Post #168 of 794
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 365
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Sometimes the holier then thou, attitude of some of the posters on this board gets on my nerves. Yes the guy in the video did something stupid, no his climbing was not perfect, but who the hell are we to judge him. He made a decision, and he paid the price. I don’t know about you but I have certainly done stupid things as a younger man, and probably will do other stupid things in future. Luckily for me non of my stupidity has never been caught on video Looking at some of the posts, in this thread, I wonder whether some of you have ever been out of your nice cosy gym before.
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patto
Dec 1, 2009, 12:54 PM
Post #171 of 794
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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
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king_rat wrote: Sometimes the holier then thou, attitude of some of the posters on this board gets on my nerves....
I agree. Why turn on the guy who posted a FANTASTIC video. He didn't have to post it but I'm glad he did. Sure interpret what you will from that video but don't insult the poster.
Many of the same people here who are calling the subject of the video an idiot are those who speak of famous soloers in tones of reverance. The only real difference is that this guy fell. But hey plenty of other respected soloers have fallen.
I'm not saying that this guy was smart to be climbing like that but please stop you holier than thou attitude.
CRAZYPETIE thanks for your video! 
majid_sabet wrote: This is a great video so if I was insurance company and wanted to know how stupid climbers are, all I had to do just watch this thing and cancel their policies the next day.
It is interesting that you say that considering most travel insurance covers you for soloing but not for leading or top roping.
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dingus
Dec 1, 2009, 1:00 PM
Post #175 of 794
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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king_rat wrote: Sometimes the holier then thou, attitude of some of the posters on this board gets on my nerves.
Esp. considering many of their critics are wet behind the ears noobs who've never soloed a fucking thing in their lives bwahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaa!!!1111
BOO!
DMT
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