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kriso9tails
Oct 1, 2009, 7:44 PM
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Skidemon27 wrote: nah its weird man, all trad climbers are really cool to each other willing to help lend a hand, pair up so u can make a 2 rope rapell at the top, been going there alot the past couple years and everyone with a back pack on(climbing gear inside) or a harness on, are friendly as hell to each other.... but the boulderers alll give u a stink eye..it remind me when snow boarding first hit the winter scene... almost as if they (boulderers) are skiiers and everyone one who actually climbs are the snowboaders...
This is intended as a joke, right?
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carabiner96
Oct 1, 2009, 7:51 PM
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kriso9tails wrote: Skidemon27 wrote: nah its weird man, all trad climbers are really cool to each other willing to help lend a hand, pair up so u can make a 2 rope rapell at the top, been going there alot the past couple years and everyone with a back pack on(climbing gear inside) or a harness on, are friendly as hell to each other.... but the boulderers alll give u a stink eye..it remind me when snow boarding first hit the winter scene... almost as if they (boulderers) are skiiers and everyone one who actually climbs are the snowboaders... This is intended as a joke, right?
yes, that's why it's not in english.
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jefffski
Oct 1, 2009, 7:53 PM
Post #78 of 157
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In reply to: Near Leavenworth- Prussik peak south face. Original route. "5.9 my ass, that chimney ate my knee" Leavenworth- Jim Yoder soloed THAT?
i was stuck in that chimney for about 4 years. 5.9?
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jefffski
Oct 1, 2009, 7:57 PM
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j-tree--getting off the climbs is harder than the climbs
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smallclimber
Oct 1, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #80 of 157
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kriso9tails wrote: Skidemon27 wrote: nah its weird man, all trad climbers are really cool to each other willing to help lend a hand, pair up so u can make a 2 rope rapell at the top, been going there alot the past couple years and everyone with a back pack on(climbing gear inside) or a harness on, are friendly as hell to each other.... but the boulderers alll give u a stink eye..it remind me when snow boarding first hit the winter scene... almost as if they (boulderers) are skiiers and everyone one who actually climbs are the snowboaders... This is intended as a joke, right?
Somehow I would have had the trad climbers as skiers (old school)and boulderers as snowboarders (cool, young and wearing baggy pants and beanies) who regard the skiers as old fuddy duddies (like me...).
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shockabuku
Oct 1, 2009, 8:19 PM
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taydude wrote: My one time at the Gunks these boulderers were stink eyeing me for having a trad rack. I thought it was funny cuz more than likely I'm much better at bouldering than them.
Flash their project with your rack on and they'll probably leave you alone.
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ladyscarlett
Oct 1, 2009, 8:22 PM
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irregularpanda wrote: Joshua Tree: Fuck man, 5.9 could mean anything here.
Heh!
aerili wrote: Climber exchanges as can be heard everywhere in the Tahoe region: "Hi, how's it going. Let me guess, you must be from the Bay area..."
Yes, well...
WHOOO!!! We're here!!!!
cheers for the fun.
ls
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onarunning
Oct 1, 2009, 8:39 PM
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Devil's Lake, WI: "Are those boy scouts rappelling off my project?!"
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the_climber
Oct 1, 2009, 8:42 PM
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Tetons - Is that a boyscout group rescuing Doc?
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Scooter12ga
Oct 1, 2009, 9:12 PM
Post #85 of 157
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White Rock, NM:
"Which pocket?"
"Just pick one!"
"They all suck.....OOw!"
"You found it!"
(This post was edited by Scooter12ga on Oct 1, 2009, 9:19 PM)
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donald949
Oct 1, 2009, 9:17 PM
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jefffski wrote: j-tree--getting off the climbs is harder than the climbs
Some started a whole thread on MP on that very subject.
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kachoong
Oct 1, 2009, 9:18 PM
Post #87 of 157
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Any classic granite slab crag:
"So, you got the draws you need?"
"Hmmm lemmie see..... one... two... umm.... yep they both seem to be there! Shit!"
"On belay"
"Climbing"
(This post was edited by kachoong on Oct 1, 2009, 9:19 PM)
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bennydh
Oct 1, 2009, 10:03 PM
Post #89 of 157
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carabiner96 wrote: kriso9tails wrote: Skidemon27 wrote: nah its weird man, all trad climbers are really cool to each other willing to help lend a hand, pair up so u can make a 2 rope rapell at the top, been going there alot the past couple years and everyone with a back pack on(climbing gear inside) or a harness on, are friendly as hell to each other.... but the boulderers alll give u a stink eye..it remind me when snow boarding first hit the winter scene... almost as if they (boulderers) are skiiers and everyone one who actually climbs are the snowboaders... This is intended as a joke, right? yes, that's why it's not in english. 
In reply to: j-tree--getting off the climbs is harder than the climbs
You just need to check to be sure you aren't climbing up the down climb.
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Alpine07
Oct 1, 2009, 10:34 PM
Post #90 of 157
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kachoong wrote: Any classic granite slab crag: "So, you got the draws you need?" "Hmmm lemmie see..... one... two... umm.... yep they both seem to be there! Shit!" "On belay" "Climbing"
+1 Hahahaha
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jefffski
Oct 2, 2009, 7:05 AM
Post #91 of 157
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donald949 wrote: jefffski wrote: j-tree--getting off the climbs is harder than the climbs Some started a whole thread on MP on that very subject.
wow, i had no idea how contentious the topic was. i wish there were more rap anchors there, but as i have never put up a route but just climb stuff other people sweated over to put up, i am thankful for the route, grade and beta.
Asking FAs why they set the anchors/bolts as they did is a much better strategy than complaining.
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qwert
Oct 2, 2009, 7:18 AM
Post #92 of 157
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First of let me say that i am totally amazed!
A sungam thread that actually is funny!
(just kidding )
Unfortunately i cant offer much, since im not often to famous crags, yet alone some that get bitched about, or are known in the US, but ill try anyways:
Kandersteg (you gotta know this! Its one of the top ice climbing spots of the world):
"Arent you supposed to stay of an ice fall when there is already a party on it due to ice fall and such? There are friggin 4 rope teams on this classic 3 pitch climb!"
Val di mello: "we are in some remote valley in the alps, why are there hundreds of italian families having piknik between the boulders?"
Probably only bitched about when you go there with me:
"We are at one of the best places for climbing in the alps, why are we climbing through vertical shrubbery and overhanging roots? Where is that fuckin route that looked "oh so good" in the guide book?"
qwert
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Guran
Oct 2, 2009, 1:16 PM
Post #93 of 157
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Oh, since the subject is now ice...
Rjukan: "A beer costs WHAT?!"
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 2, 2009, 1:19 PM
Post #94 of 157
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Anywhere, especially in NH - "Man, how many routes did Henry Barber put up.....and why does he hate me so much!!!"
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donald949
Oct 2, 2009, 8:20 PM
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jefffski wrote: donald949 wrote: jefffski wrote: j-tree--getting off the climbs is harder than the climbs Some started a whole thread on MP on that very subject. wow, i had no idea how contentious the topic was. i wish there were more rap anchors there, but as i have never put up a route but just climb stuff other people sweated over to put up, i am thankful for the route, grade and beta. Asking FAs why they set the anchors/bolts as they did is a much better strategy than complaining.
Even back then, there was well over 2500 routes in the park. As such it was developed as a trad area, long before the concept of sport was established. Now you may note that much of JTree is bolted face climbing, and that is true. But bolts do not deffine a route as trad or sport. Stitcher Quites aka Black Tide is 120 feet with 3 bolts. Dingus likes to say trad is ground up, and thats true. I like to add that trad is also climbing as the rock presents itself. Such as if there is a crack or such that can be protected with a nut/hex/cam, then that is what is done. So if there is face with crack running across it, you will get bolts below and above it, but you will find that the crack is expected to be used, even if its only one piece out of 4 or 5. Additionally, if you get to the top, and an anchor can be built with gear or slings, then that is what is expected to be done. I have found this last situation is quite often the case.
Finnally, you will find some routes with a bolted rap anchor. Typically this is done where there was no easy way off, so rapping was the desent. Double Cross is a good example, climb the crack with gear to a bolted anchor and rap off. Now I've started to hear about more convience rap stations being put in, but haven't really run into any that I know of.
Anyrate, those are just my observations.
Don
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irregularpanda
Oct 2, 2009, 8:54 PM
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ladyscarlett wrote: irregularpanda wrote: Joshua Tree: Fuck man, 5.9 could mean anything here. Heh! aerili wrote: Climber exchanges as can be heard everywhere in the Tahoe region: "Hi, how's it going. Let me guess, you must be from the Bay area..." Yes, well... WHOOO!!! We're everywhere!!!! cheers for the fun. ls
Lemme fix this for ya.
Full disclosure, I like you guys, you don't get on my nerves. You're friendly. You're nice. You drink good beer. You are polite (in general) You're just....everywhere.
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kyleshea
Oct 2, 2009, 8:59 PM
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shimanilami wrote: By the sounds of this thread, the Gunks must be a really crappy place to climb. Either that, or New Yorkers are a bunch of whiny bitches. Or both.
yes and yes
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sycamore
Oct 2, 2009, 10:26 PM
Post #98 of 157
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rockandlice wrote: NRG : "Rico's Dry"
+1
Man, last time I was there, we couldn't stop from doing Roger impersonations, like for days at a time...
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kyote321
Oct 2, 2009, 11:00 PM
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Rifle: 'take'
(This post was edited by kyote321 on Oct 2, 2009, 11:00 PM)
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rockandlice
Oct 2, 2009, 11:53 PM
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sycamore wrote: rockandlice wrote: NRG : "Rico's Dry" +1 Man, last time I was there, we couldn't stop from doing Roger impersonations, like for days at a time...
"It'll be sunny and 70 until it rains"
"I guess I forgot to pay the weather bill"
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