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Poll: Would you rather...
Barely make it up a harder grade? 53 / 46%
Send a slightly easier grade with style? 63 / 54%
116 total votes
 

jcrew


Feb 3, 2010, 6:36 PM
Post #101 of 108 (609 views)
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Registered: May 11, 2006
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Re: [lena_chita] Would you rather... [In reply to]
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i thought this thread was a TMZ thing

all my hardest sends have been by the skin of my teeth, OS and redpoint.

the question is: is harder climbing better? i heard long ago "5.10 is God's country"


(This post was edited by jcrew on Feb 3, 2010, 6:39 PM)


karmiclimber


Feb 3, 2010, 6:37 PM
Post #102 of 108 (608 views)
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Registered: Mar 11, 2004
Posts: 1058

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No Lena. I quit smoking three days ago ago and I am sooooooo cranky. I'm sorry for being snippy. Frown


Toast_in_the_Machine


Feb 3, 2010, 7:13 PM
Post #103 of 108 (592 views)
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lena_chita wrote:
dingus wrote:
To get beyond journeywoman and into expert category one must make 'working out of the comfort zone' a comfort zone.

Yes?

Very well said. Why can't *I* put things so concisely?

Please try.


Partner cracklover


Feb 3, 2010, 7:16 PM
Post #104 of 108 (592 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Re: [karmiclimber] Would you rather... [In reply to]
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Just noticed this part...

karmiclimber wrote:
I made the poll cause I thought it was interesting, yet here I am again with someone calling me noob.

Obviously I think it's interesting, too, which is why I'm posting.

Anyway, I wonder why you think I'm calling you a noob? I never said anything like that. I said your posts read like someone who hasn't spent much time pushing herself out of her comfort zone. And didn't you confirm as much?

GO


olderic


Feb 3, 2010, 8:40 PM
Post #105 of 108 (580 views)
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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Re: [dingus] Would you rather... [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
I can only risk falls now in carefully controlled situations. So climbing at my limit means something quite different than it did 10, 20, 30 years ago

Cheers
DMT

When you get really old (I've got 10+ years on DMT) its even more then not wanting to risk a fall. There are certain moves - dynos, cross throughs, etc - that hurt when I do them and hurt more the next day. I'll save those for Gabe's the sh*t's on the line scenerio.

But those type of moves I equate with "just barely making it at my limit". Style - to me - means doing moves that may be strenuous, may be committing (Gabe's scenerio) but ones that I can do without it hurting.

But that is an old person's perspective.


lena_chita
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Feb 3, 2010, 9:05 PM
Post #106 of 108 (565 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
dingus wrote:
To get beyond journeywoman and into expert category one must make 'working out of the comfort zone' a comfort zone.

Yes?

Very well said. Why can't *I* put things so concisely?

Please try.

Is it a new polite way of telling people to shut up already? Wink I will try.


Bag11s


Feb 3, 2010, 9:18 PM
Post #107 of 108 (560 views)
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Registered: May 8, 2009
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Succeeding on a hard climb often requires the climber to cycle through episodic oscillations- they must fluctuate between sets of meticulously controlled moves that are characterized by clever body English and the conservation of energy followed by, and insanely punctuated with, passages that mandate animal go- for- broke effort. The harder the grade, the requirements for both precise technique and brute effort increase. Climbing at your personal maximal difficulty level has its own rewards, although it may not be beautiful.


Toast_in_the_Machine


Feb 3, 2010, 9:44 PM
Post #108 of 108 (553 views)
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Registered: Sep 12, 2008
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lena_chita wrote:
Toast_in_the_Machine wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
dingus wrote:
To get beyond journeywoman and into expert category one must make 'working out of the comfort zone' a comfort zone.

Yes?

Very well said. Why can't *I* put things so concisely?

Please try.

Is it a new polite way of telling people to shut up already? Wink I will try.

Hi kettle. Be pithy.

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