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jacksdefeat
Jan 10, 2008, 2:37 PM
Post #51 of 127
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cintune wrote: [image]http://www.peak-adventures.co.nz/gallery%20photos/Gallary%207,%20drilling%20rock%20wall%20200mm.jpg[/image]
...
you gotta be fist fucking me.
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jacksdefeat
Jan 10, 2008, 2:40 PM
Post #52 of 127
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dondada wrote: go live in the woods of africa and stop buying products from corperations that dont give a shit about the environment and then you may have a leg to stand on when it comes to chewing someone out for putting a few chips in a big rock.
ah. yes. i forgot we have to be absolutely perfect in order to try to stand for anything worthwhile in this world.
with that mentality, stop talking, because you're doing nothing to preserve the future of the english language.
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jermanimal
Jan 10, 2008, 2:46 PM
Post #53 of 127
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jacksdefeat wrote: cintune wrote: image]http://www.peak-adventures.co.nz/gallery%20photos/Gallary%207,%20drilling%20rock%20wall%20200mm.jpg[/image] ... you gotta be fist fucking me.
Oh my god I can't believe that photo. The first think I would think if I had a 10m limestone was would be how to get some plastic up there to make it a climbing wall.
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jacksdefeat
Jan 10, 2008, 2:49 PM
Post #54 of 127
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hah. yeah. not to mention, limestone with such great features.
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johnwesely
Jan 10, 2008, 2:52 PM
Post #55 of 127
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boulderballerina wrote: ok Obe ...this is how it goes:every discipline has the top players...the elite...those who are on top of the game ...and for those people a different set of rules and ethicks aply ...so as far as chipping and climbing/bouldering goes ...it is ok for those who deal with V13/14/15 or 5.14c/d ....and it is helping to push the envelop further ...and it has been going on for last 20 years ...and majority of 'hard' lines has been thus modifyed,more or less ...BUT...you must be The Elite to understand and do it senseably and even then there has been a lot of 'bad' chiping ...and since the Plebs can not understand...the Elite doesn't talk about it...cos: it is NO,NO,NO to chiping to suit your personal bounderies ...UNLESS you are pushing 'the world' boundery ...... good luck to you alll
I hope to god that you are a troll.
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skunkhand
Jan 10, 2008, 9:51 PM
Post #56 of 127
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boulderballerina wrote: ok Obe ...this is how it goes:every discipline has the top players...the elite...those who are on top of the game ...and for those people a different set of rules and ethicks aply ...so as far as chipping and climbing/bouldering goes ...it is ok for those who deal with V13/14/15 or 5.14c/d ....and it is helping to push the envelop further ...and it has been going on for last 20 years ...and majority of 'hard' lines has been thus modifyed,more or less ...BUT...you must be The Elite to understand and do it senseably and even then there has been a lot of 'bad' chiping ...and since the Plebs can not understand...the Elite doesn't talk about it...cos: it is NO,NO,NO to chiping to suit your personal bounderies ...UNLESS you are pushing 'the world' boundery ...... good luck to you alll
This is one of the stupidest things I've read on any forum.
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dondada
Jan 11, 2008, 11:16 AM
Post #57 of 127
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sorry........i dont spell check my posts......i wrote that @ 4 in the morning at work.......i bet if we went back and looked at your ten thousand posts(loser) we'd find a mistake or two.......i understand that tuff is tough however this is not a term paper to be critiqued its the web..........any one anal E nuff 2 check grammer out there ??????
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chalker7
Jan 11, 2008, 3:48 PM
Post #58 of 127
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I can take an insult from a little commie prick anyday, but he damn well better spout off using something that resembles english.
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dingus
Jan 11, 2008, 3:59 PM
Post #59 of 127
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dondada wrote: sorry........i dont spell check my posts......i wrote that @ 4 in the morning at work.......i bet if we went back and looked at your ten thousand posts(loser) we'd find a mistake or two.......i understand that tuff is tough however this is not a term paper to be critiqued its the web..........any one anal E nuff 2 check grammer out there ??????
Nah you're all right by me. I make lots of mistakes and spray the live long day. I promise you.... you not only can out crank me you will likely out live me by decades too.
I write at 4 in the morning a lot too.
Cheers!
DMT
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dingus
Jan 11, 2008, 4:02 PM
Post #60 of 127
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dondada wrote: sorry........i dont spell check my posts......
Say dondada I forgot to ask.... what's your ID name mean?
I remember this stupid made-for-TV movie about some dude got popped for a pound of heroin or weed somewhere Malaysia or Indonesia or somesuch. Maybe Singapore.
Anyway, drug dealing is a death penalty crime there, or was.
Dada is Death.
It stuck with me.... dada is death. My eldest daughter and I use dada for something truly twisted.
Are you Don Death by any chance?
Cheers
DMT
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jgloporto
Jan 11, 2008, 4:35 PM
Post #61 of 127
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obe wrote: sandstone climber just put up a forum with the discussion of chipping an already climbed and climbable problem. but what about an unclimbable problem? A few of my friends and i found this boulder with a few really cool problems on it. but on one side of the boulder is the mosr beautiful line there: 3 feet of vertical wall leading to a perfect about 12 foot rounded overhand, probably 45 degrees, with a perfect top out. the problem: there is not a SINGLE feature on it. so, i know this isnt a problem i think that the "future generation" can send. i really want to chip or glue holds on it and make it a rad line, but it somehow feels wrong. Opinions?
Boulderers are weke.
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notapplicable
Jan 12, 2008, 4:53 AM
Post #62 of 127
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jacksdefeat wrote: cintune wrote: [image]http://www.peak-adventures.co.nz/gallery%20photos/Gallary%207,%20drilling%20rock%20wall%20200mm.jpg[/image] ... you gotta be fist fucking me.
This is an open invite to all RC.comers. Lets take a fieldtrip and visit this new (early press is saying world class) climbing destination. I have a line on a cheap bus rental. Whos in?
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petsfed
Jan 12, 2008, 5:00 AM
Post #63 of 127
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notapplicable wrote: jacksdefeat wrote: cintune wrote: [image]http://www.peak-adventures.co.nz/gallery%20photos/Gallary%207,%20drilling%20rock%20wall%20200mm.jpg[/image] ... you gotta be fist fucking me. This is an open invite to all RC.comers. Lets take a fieldtrip and visit this new (early press is saying world class) climbing destination. I have a line on a cheap bus rental. Whos in?
First, if you found a way to drive a bus to New Zealand, I'm in just to see that.
Second:
That would've been a sick route.
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notapplicable
Jan 12, 2008, 5:23 AM
Post #64 of 127
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petsfed wrote: First, if you found a way to drive a bus to New Zealand, I'm in just to see that.
Oh, it can be done. 
petsfed wrote: That would've been a sick route.
Yes it would have but private property is private property.
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Stillbreakinghearts
Jan 13, 2008, 12:35 AM
Post #65 of 127
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jacksdefeat wrote: cintune wrote: [image]http://www.peak-adventures.co.nz/gallery%20photos/Gallary%207,%20drilling%20rock%20wall%20200mm.jpg[/image] ... you gotta be fist fucking me.
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rockclimbergabor
Jan 18, 2008, 6:04 PM
Post #66 of 127
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Alright guys... I know you everyone in this forum wants to be the wise, environment potecting pure climber, but lets all be honest for a second. If you climb 5.12 or harder, chances are youve probably climbed on at least one chipped route in your life. Probably more. In fact, most of the hard sport climbing in the US and Europe wouldnt even exist today without previous chipping. Most hard classic routes including Kryptonite, La Rambla, and even Realization are chipped, not to mention the hundreds of easier 5.14 routes all around the world. A lot of people say "Leave it to the future generation, one day it will be climbed", and this may be the case sometimes but realistically, no one will ever climb a completely blank overhang or roof. Its physically impossible. In France, for example, a lot of overhangs are filled with tufas with big gaps between them, so sequences of pockets were chipped to fill in the gaps and make routes. Is this really so terrible?
The way I see it, its better to have a chipped crag with fun, hard routes then an amazing overhanging wall with no routes on it. Of course, for routes that have the potential to go naturally, I strongly oppose chipping them to bring them down to someones level. But usually its pretty obvious when a route will never go natural.
Personally, I probably wont ever chip a route but I also wont bitch about the people that invested a lot of time and money into making fun, classic routes out of impossible ones. If you are completely opposed to chipping then I respect your position, however ironically it is usually the people that say these things that go out and climb chipped routes all the time. Theres so much rock in the world, if you are really that opposed to chipping then dont bother to visit red rocks, rifle, smith rocks, the new river gorge, the cathedral, the virgin river gorge, utah hills, and also most of france, spain, switzerland, slovenia, etc. Or you can just accept it for what it is and enjoy all types of routes, whether chipped or not.
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bizarrodrinker
Jan 18, 2008, 6:17 PM
Post #67 of 127
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rockclimbergabor wrote: this may be the case sometimes but realistically, no one will ever climb a completely blank overhang or roof. Its physically impossible.
So go climb something else and spare nature the chipping and the bolts.
While I do enjoy sport climbing and am not about to get into the circular bolt war discussion...if you have to chip holds prior to bolting to make it climbable...its not a route.
Go to an gym if you want to make up a hard route. There are plenty of hard lines in the world that will go without prior alteration (excluding bolts).
Just my opinionated 2 cents.
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marc801
Jan 18, 2008, 6:42 PM
Post #68 of 127
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rockclimbergabor wrote: The way I see it, its better to have a chipped crag with fun, hard routes then an amazing overhanging wall with no routes on it.
Then what's the difference between that and a manufactured outdoor wall or gym? It's really not necessary to "develop" every square foot of every cliff you know.
rockclimbergabor wrote: But usually its pretty obvious when a route will never go natural.
Again, people used to say that about 5.12's to justify chipping them. And now that we have 5.14's and 15's, the people climbing at that level feel that the chipped 13's and 14a's are soft for the grade.
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cintune
Jan 18, 2008, 7:06 PM
Post #69 of 127
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Someday chipping will be a thing of the past.
(Climbing, 109, Aug. 1988)
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petsfed
Jan 18, 2008, 7:12 PM
Post #70 of 127
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Yes, you can't "unchip" a route. But just because it was done in the past doesn't make it ok to do now. I accept that sometimes it can put an area on the map but its been my experience that chipping is predominantly motivated by laziness. Either the developer was not willing to become a better climber to make the line go, or the climber was not willing to walk further to develop a route without chipping. In the Utah Hills, the area near Rifle (whose Kryptonite did not feature the chipped hold during its first ascent, numerous parties will attest), Red Rocks, the VRG, there is so much rock available to you that chipping just screams lazy. Likewise with Sinks Canyon, and the Wild Iris. Also Shelf Road and Penitente.
I've pulled on drilled, chipped, and sika'd holds before. And while yes, it was kinda fun, I couldn't help but wonder what the sequence was like before that. Was there a usable (albeit less effective) hold before? Would it require a crazy dyno that strained the limits of possibility?
Having seen what's been done on microscopic holds, barely-there slopers, and glassy smooth slabs, I have to question anyone who can convince himself that what looks impossible to them is actually impossible. I looked at a V9 slab a few weeks back. I've no idea how to even start it. But it has been done, several times.
And given how much rock is in Switzerland, France, Germany, Slovenia and all the other places your mentioned, do these roofs really need to go right now? Aren't there dozens of other lines that can go, unmodified, that nobody's seen fit to develop?
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sammmy
Jan 18, 2008, 7:35 PM
Post #71 of 127
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rockclimbergabor wrote: Most hard classic routes including Kryptonite, La Rambla, and even Realization are chipped, not to mention the hundreds of easier 5.14 routes all around the world.
I am by no means trying to say your name-dropped routes aren't solid and impressive, but, IMHO, by definition, a chipped route isn't classic.
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corson
Jan 18, 2008, 8:51 PM
Post #72 of 127
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Posts: 193
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Every time I drive down route 3 towards I 95, I swear, speed , get stressed out and pissed off ,and swear and pass on double yellow lines and swear, and wonder where all these slow ass, dumb fucks came from and why the hell they cant get out of the passing lanes and let me by legally. I am going a blistering 60 MPH in a 55 MPH zone mind you. Alexia looks at me and says EVERY time(i drive this route 4 times a week twice a day),why do you do this to yourself,why do you get so upset.its not worth it etc,etc. The sane voice of a women who hasn't yet endured a 2 year struggle with a proj. Anyhow, I feel like that every time I read a dumbass post like this one. It makes me HATE THIS SITE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yet I read 80% of the posts in response to OBE's asinine post.It is like a downward spiral of complete fucking dumbass comments, and some funny and clever ones too.(few and far between) .Sorry for the rant I'm just sick of stupid shit. Like its OK to chip if you climb v13 or harder. Thats the stupidest shit i've heard all day.
in a nut shell
chip if you want
dont chip if you dont want to
if you chip you are a weak minded poser who lacks the integrity and disipline to train
or are to much of an ego maniac to realize that the line is just to hard.
with that being said ,I have climbed and enjoyed many manufactured routes across the US and europe.And have seen some real bags of shit too.
I have got to take this site off my favorites list
There are good guys and assholes on every street,on every block, in every town, everywhere.
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curt
Jan 19, 2008, 5:46 AM
Post #73 of 127
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rockclimbergabor wrote: ...I strongly oppose chipping them to bring them down to someones level. But usually its pretty obvious when a route will never go natural...
The problem is that it's not obvious at all.
Curt
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dingus
Jan 19, 2008, 12:09 PM
Post #74 of 127
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Stillbreakinghearts wrote: jacksdefeat wrote: cintune wrote: [image]http://www.peak-adventures.co.nz/gallery%20photos/Gallary%207,%20drilling%20rock%20wall%20200mm.jpg[/image] ... you gotta be fist fucking me.Hey thats my line!
I'm doing you both simul-fisting don't you know.
How's the roids??? They look like bracelets from here....
DMT
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dingus
Jan 19, 2008, 12:12 PM
Post #75 of 127
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rockclimbergabor wrote: then dont bother to visit red rocks, rifle, smith rocks, the new river gorge, the cathedral, the virgin river gorge, utah hills, and also most of france, spain, switzerland, slovenia, etc.
There are thousands of climbers who take this advice to heart. I haven't been to any of those places in over a decade myself.
However I'm an old loser on the downward spiral don't you know.
DMT
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