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AntinJ
Jul 21, 2009, 11:53 PM
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Lots of Bostonians in New Paltz this past weekend!
Although we took it relatively easy at the Gunks this weekend I had a blast and the weather turned out to be great (except for the exciting down pour Friday night).
BEC and Wonderwoman - thanks for letting us rap off your doubles from the top of Bonnie's…single raps get old after a while!
Jen, GMB and company - it was nice running into you guys at split rock. I need to start cooking dinner there, it seems like a great way to end the day.
see you all up there next time,
-Jason
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Jul 22, 2009, 1:18 AM)
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robbovius
Jul 22, 2009, 2:03 AM
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wonderwoman wrote: Weathers looking better for gunks, folks!  Yeeehaw!!!
tiff, hope you have good luck, tonight the prediction was 40% chance of scattered t-storms from tomorrow thru tuesday. i was trying to find peeps for next mon and tues. i dunno tho, i got real tired of dodging the rain the week before last...
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climberguy2011
Jul 22, 2009, 3:44 AM
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Wow this is a long thread.
I'm new to the site, looking for partners for farley and rumney. I lead sport up to easier .11s, and will try and clean .12a. Willing to boulder, but prefer ropes.
PM me.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 22, 2009, 12:46 PM
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AntinJ wrote: Lots of Bostonians in New Paltz this past weekend! Although we took it relatively easy at the Gunks this weekend I had a blast and the weather turned out to be great (except for the exciting down pour Friday night). BEC and Wonderwoman - thanks for letting us rap off your doubles from the top of Bonnie's…single raps get old after a while! Jen, GMB and company - it was nice running into you guys at split rock. I need to start cooking dinner there, it seems like a great way to end the day. see you all up there next time, -Jason
Oh hey, so that's who you are. Nice to have met you.
Yeah, dinner at Split Rock is pretty cool. Cheap, low key, and it comes with a free bath!
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wonderwoman
Jul 22, 2009, 2:26 PM
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robbovius wrote: wonderwoman wrote: Weathers looking better for gunks, folks! Yeeehaw!!! tiff, hope you have good luck, tonight the prediction was 40% chance of scattered t-storms from tomorrow thru tuesday. i was trying to find peeps for next mon and tues. i dunno tho, i got real tired of dodging the rain the week before last...
Twas' a beautiful weekend! Minus the chigger bites that started itching last night! Yeow!!! 
I backed off the first pitch of Airy Aria at the offwidthy part. I was too ascared! Got the awesome second pitch traverse and then went on to do Lichen 40 Winks. The first pitch was bland, but I think the second pitch made it all worth it. Man, is that climb dirty, though!
I'm having a hard time getting into the swing of things this year! Feel like the weather is preventing the mileage that I need, and that's messing with my head!
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wonderwoman
Jul 22, 2009, 2:27 PM
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AntinJ wrote: BEC and Wonderwoman - thanks for letting us rap off your doubles from the top of Bonnie's…single raps get old after a while!
Pleasure to meet you guys! good to put a face to an RC.commer!
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robbovius
Jul 22, 2009, 2:47 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: Twas' a beautiful weekend! Minus the chigger bites that started itching last night! Yeow!!!
In reply to: I'm having a hard time getting into the swing of things this year! Feel like the weather is preventing the mileage that I need, and that's messing with my head!
I totally hear ya. its hard enough for me to get away, and get on tall and steep stuff, but with all the rain, I think I've done maybe 10 leads this season.
at least i've been getting good mileage at the new worcester gym, and pushing myself onto .10s and up which has been a great confidence booster.
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wonderwoman
Jul 22, 2009, 3:13 PM
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cracklover wrote: wonderwoman wrote: I backed off the first pitch of Airy Aria at the offwidthy part. I was too ascared! I think the first pitch of Airy Aria was the most scared I've ever been on a lead at that grade at the Gunks. All I remember clearly was rock that was slicker than C wall at QQ, and being sure I was gonna pitch off at any moment. GO
Glad it wasn't just me! I also had some ass mocking me, believe it or not, and saying a whole bunch of really nasty stuff about women. I really need to learn how to tune people out!
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cracklover
Jul 22, 2009, 3:46 PM
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Wow! Just... wow. I'm sorry, that really sucks. And in the middle of a hard lead. Damn.
GO
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jakedatc
Jul 22, 2009, 4:01 PM
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sat-mon at rumney with Kate and Doc and some canadian friends. Ticked off Things as they are 10c at Jimmy and Clusterphobia .10d-11a at Armed and Dangerous. Only have 3 sport routes left to finish Jimmy Cliff :)
despite the weather report.. no rain was seen after friday night and we had dry stone all weekend long.
kickass camp setup
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losbill
Jul 23, 2009, 2:49 AM
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Geez Jake --- it has been awhile! Looks and sounds like you guys had fun! Nothing like climbing with Les Quebois or friends from Toronto! Lends that little international flare. Thinking I need to put away the rack and head up to Rumney for at least one weekend! --- Bill
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jakedatc
Jul 23, 2009, 3:39 AM
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we did.. 3 days of bolt clipping goodness.. they were from toronto and not quebequois .. though we did see some of them along the way.
7 routes sat, 9 sun, 7 monday if my counting is correct.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 24, 2009, 8:17 PM
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Jen, Kurt, Rachel, and I met at the 'Gunks last weekend for fun climbing without the crowds. It was an interesting weekend for all: beautiful weather and no one around on Sat, Kurt took things to a whole new level for himself, and I got both crushed and saved at the same time.
The Silver Lining is now up for reading.
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AntinJ
Jul 26, 2009, 2:35 AM
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Great TR Greg ~ Bonnie's & Hans' are on my list for my next Gunks adventure...
*Hope everyone is getting some climbing in this weekend ~ We had a pretty good day today at some of the crags in Western, MA.
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AntinJ
Jul 27, 2009, 7:30 AM
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So incase some of you guys were a little bored, I thought I would post the goal ticklist my climbing buddies and I have compiled for the 2009 season. Obviously some of these routes are only going to appeal to the Mass local (i.e. Outside Corner, Thank You Scott, etc...), but I figured they are 'right of passage' routes for a Boston-based climber. Some other climbs in the "Top-Rope" section are way beyond my climbing ability (Bullet Proof) but worth tying-in for, at least once before the snow hits. We've already 'ticked' a majority of the routes on the list and obviously as climbing skills improve; more classics will fall within sight - however for the time being we are looking construct the ultimate list relative to our current climbing abilities.
I have no intentions of re-creating another "your-favorite-route" thread, but rather trying to see if I missed any obvious climbs for a relatively new climber trying to tackle some of the classics early on. We are trying to keep each category to 10 routes or less.
Did I overlook any obvious gems???
TOP ROPE
•Bullet Proof 5.13a (Upper Tier, Farley Ledge)
•Diabolical 5.13a (Main Wall, Farley Ledge)
•Thank You Scott 5.12a (Q Wall, Quincy Quarries)
•Reach the Sky 11.c (Cathedral Ledge)
•Peanut Gallery Flake 5.11b (Cathedral Ledge)
•Jane 5.11a (Fisherman’s Crag, Crow Hill)
•Cro-Magnon 5.10d (Fisherman’s Crag , Crow Hill)
SPORT
•Cuddle Fish 5.11b (Main Wall, Farley Ledge)
•All-the-Way-A 5.11a (Waimea Left Crag, Rumney)
•Tropicana 5.11a (Orange Crush, Rumney)
•Student Loan 5.11a (Meadows Left Crag, Rumney)
•Waimea 5.10d (Waimea Left Crag, Rumney)
•Millennium Falcon 5.10c (Main Cliff, Rumney)
•Armed & Dangerous 5.10b (Main Cliff Left, Rumney)
•Lonesome Dove 5.10a (Jimmy Cliff Right, Rumney)
•Masterpiece 5.10a (Bonsai Crag, Rumney)
•Scene of the Crime 5.10a (Main Cliff Left, Rumney)
•Underdog 5.10a (Main Cliff, Rumney)
BOULDERING
•The Buddha V7 (Trapps Boulders, Gunks)
TRAD
•Barndoor 5.10d (Upper Tier, Farley Ledge)
•Book of Solemnity 5.10a (Cathedral Ledge)
•Endeavor to Persevere 5.10a (Reservoir Rocks, Great Barrington)
•Yosemite Crack 5.8 (Upper Tier, Farley Ledge)
•Directissima 5.9+ (Trapps, Gunks)
•Kor Crack 5.9+ (Main Crag, Ragged Mountain)
•Hotter Than Hell 5.9 (South Buttress, Whitehorse Ledge)
•Recombeast 5.9 (Cathedral Ledge)
•Pine Tree Eliminate 5.8+ (Cathedral Ledge)
•Arrow 5.8 (Trapps, Gunks)
•Diagonal 5.8 (Fisherman’s Crag, Crow Hill)
•Inferno 5.8 (South Buttress, Whitehorse Ledge)
•Moby Grape 5.8 (Cannon Cliff)
•Outside Corner 5.8 (K Wall, Quincy Quarries)
•Pinnacle (Northeast Ridge) 5.7+ (Huntington Ravine)
•The Eaglet ~ West Chimney 5.7 (Franconia Notch)
•Standard Route Direct 5.7 (Slabs, Whitehorse Ledge)
•Whitney-Gilman Ridge 5.7 (Cannon Cliff)
•High Exposure 5.6+ (Trapps, Gunks)
•Gelsa 5.4 (Near Trapps, Gunks)
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Jul 27, 2009, 8:38 AM)
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cracklover
Jul 27, 2009, 1:30 PM
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Sport
------------
Peer Pressure
Flyin Hawaiian
GO
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robbovius
Jul 28, 2009, 12:09 AM
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gunks tomorrow, where is split rock from the trapps?
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AntinJ
Jul 28, 2009, 12:13 AM
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Gabe - Thanks for the additions.
Robb - Bang a right out of the West Trapps parking lot. Drive until first right (Clove St.?) Follow this road, making sure to bear Right at all intersections/forks. Drive until you reach the "Coxing Kill" parking lot located on your left. Park there, walk accross the street and down a gravel path to the sound of rushing water. enjoy!
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losbill
Jul 28, 2009, 2:21 AM
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Hey Robb!!!! If you want to get together with other Massholes at the Gunks you have to give more than a couple of hours notice. I'd like to climb tomorrow and would have met you in the Gunks. Dang Noobie!!!!
AntinJ great list! Thanks for sharing it.
Three suggestions ---
Yellow Ridge in the Near Trapps for no other reason that I love the climb.
Bonnie's Roof given the beautiful line, great history, and that the FA was a unique, talented and beautiful women named Bonnie since I am married to a unique, talented and beautiful women named Bonnie!
Henderson Ridge in Huntington's Ravine. Combo it with the NERP for a big day. It is a walk up but an important climb in Northeast climbing history.
One comment/question --- clearly you are familiar with the "crag that is not to be named" (starts with a F, ends with a Y) since you have two Trad classics there on your list. (BTW I thought Barndoor was rated 5.10a). But you have no "clip&go" classics there. Before I got sucked into Trad world I climbed at Rumney many, many times. Some, well IMHO many, of the sport climbs at the "crag that is not to be named" are the equal, at least in the range of 5.8 to 5.10a, of any Rumney 3 stars. Why no F____y sport climbs on your list? BTW have you been to Crag X at the place not to be named?
Bill
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jakedatc
Jul 28, 2009, 4:33 AM
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Bill.. Rob is severely allergic to bolts.. I've offered for like 3 years now to bring rob for a full tour of the rumvegas and he wants nothing to do with it.
no northern adventures for me for a few weekends.. had family in this weekend and gotta watch the dogs next weekend.. but 7-9th might be some bolt clipping action once again :)
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cracklover
Jul 28, 2009, 4:18 PM
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AntinJ wrote: Gabe - Thanks for the additions.
Happy to throw in my $.02! A couple other thoughts...
Someone suggested Bonnies. It's true that Bonnies is as good or better than many of the other Gunks climbs you have listed. I just hesitate to add any more Gunks climbs to your list, since it's hard to know when to stop.
And a question - why do you have Cro Mag and Jane listed as TRs? These two climbs are extremely well protected. (Moreso, in fact, than Outside Corner.) That's not to say that toproping them isn't a worthy endeavor, but these are both fantastic trad leads for a Metro-Boston-based climber. They may seem awfully hard to you now, but given time, who knows?
Cheers,
GO
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AntinJ
Jul 28, 2009, 10:18 PM
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Bill ~ Thanks for the feedback: I climbed Yellow Ridge early in the season, and I am convinced that the middle pitch is 100 times better than High E, and maybe any other 5.6 that I have been on! That entire route is terrific.
Bonnie's is definitely in our crosshairs for our next visit to New Paltz - We didn't add too many 5.9's when we created the list (early spring) because we were not sure where our abilities would be by the end of the season (myself being the weakest climber in the bunch). *We have since unofficially added Bonnie’s, Ant's Line, Birdland, etc...)
For the sake of the 'Ultimate List' we were trying to be extra critical of which routes made the cut - After much persuasion, Bonnie’s has earned a slot on the Roster!
Thank you for pointing out Henderson Ridge, that might be icing on the cake for our (yet to be scheduled) Mt. Washington Climbing Adventure.
Great point about "That Crag"...
There are some terrific routes there, infact I do have Cuddlefish on the list under the SPORT section, but that’s about it. Please make some suggestions. If they are worthy of course.
Crag X: I keep hearing about it, but never been there. Maybe I'll check it out tomorrow.
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AntinJ
Jul 28, 2009, 10:27 PM
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Gabe – Great Question.
There is some inconstancy with the list as far as Leads vs. TR’s.
I guess it came down to creating a list that was attainable, but challenging. We have already ticked most of the routes that need to be lead, but some of the TR’s remain a stretch. Considering I have spent far too little time at Crow Hill, guess it came down to my perception of the routes when I first tried them, which was last summer after I had been climbing for only a very short while ( a few weeks)…and Jane kicked my ass. I’ve TR’d Outside Corner so many times; it wasn’t as much how protectable it was, as knowing the sequence – which I’m sure you can relate to.
The list probably needs some revamping. Maybe I’ll sack-up and give the CH Classics an old fashion attempt.
Thanks for the feedback,
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robbovius
Jul 29, 2009, 1:05 AM
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*Posting from the Muddycup, downtown newpatlz*
this place is fuuunnggKY I dig it.
jakedatc wrote: Bill.. Rob is severely allergic to bolts.. I've offered for like 3 years now to bring rob for a full tour of the rumvegas and he wants nothing to do with it. :)
ahhh. not so much anymore. after that session at CRG I'm thinking boilts ain't so bad. I honestly was bummed I couldn't join you and the canucks, damn it.
anyway, Losbill, hmm. yeah, longer notice. ever since that hassle I had with my internet stalker last year, I am hesitant to plan anything out on rc.com, because I know he watches it. I'll PM ya next time.
in other news, I climbed today with a guy I know thru another rockclimbing list. a non-rc-er. we've swapped leads at purgatory before. we started about 10:30 am, stayed mellow for the first couple routes and then last climb iof the day I onsighted P1 of Frogs Head. turns out that P2 is the money pitch though. CHris got that nicely. love the expo on P2 thru the overhang.
by then it was around 4 pm and my feet were killin and I was starvin because i brought no lunch, so I called it a good day and bailed for food.
Jake, I will have some time to get up north towards the end of august/ 1st week of sept, if you can still do a weekday. I'll be glad to go scare my self on bolts.
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