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rmiller
Jan 2, 2007, 9:49 PM
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What is your opinion about the best routes in AZ? Sport and Trad. Yes, I am bored at work!
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freeforsum
Jan 4, 2007, 8:01 PM
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rmiller wrote: What is your opinion about the best routes in AZ? Sport and Trad. Yes, I am bored at work!
Climbed in and around Flagg 3 times. For what I climbed:
Trad: The Prow, 11.a gear its at Paridise
Bots: Anything at the pit or Jacks Canyon.
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mrstoltz
Jan 6, 2007, 3:29 PM
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I like "Mickey Goes to Vegas" at Jacks Canyon and "Agatha Christie" on Mt. Lemmon.
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blackwolfe
Jan 17, 2007, 3:51 PM
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Jacks Canyon? This place was only created to keep all of the people from Kleenex out of Flagstaff. With the bolts so close together and the glue on(fake) friendly attitude I guess I can see why its so popular.
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ccox
Jan 18, 2007, 7:52 PM
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I'll say it again: Bagging on Jack's is a cliche.
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superbum
Jan 19, 2007, 9:09 AM
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Anything scary and long in sedona.
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phugganut
Jan 19, 2007, 11:52 AM
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A quick list of personal faves off the top of my head. I'm sure to leave several classics out.
Sedona: Earth Angel, Oak Creek Spire, The Mace (even though I've climbed about it 10,000 times) and some the new routes on The Tower of Bootle (MAJAK line and the new unnamed 11+.
Queen Creek: That climb just left of Spinal Tap that isn't in the book, and of course The Totem Pole.
Cochise: Absinthe of Mallet, with the last 2 pitches following the new, bolted line.
Isolation Canyon: Everything's Gone Green to Gone Gray, Shoot Don't Talk (only b/c it was my first FA), and I still like For a Few Ankles More.
The Pit: Mr Slate & The Abyss.
Jack's Canyon: Crosstown Traffic.
Superstitions: Sidewinder.
McDowell's: Hanging Gardens.
Mt. Lemmon: Da Bulge, Black Feather, and Steel Crazy.
Grand Canyon: Mt Hayden and Zoroaster Temple.
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blackwolfe
Jan 21, 2007, 7:01 PM
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Surprise Canyon down the Diamond Down stretch of the Colorado River has a slew of incredibly hard(the rock) metamorphic granite cracks. Upstream we tried to sink one bolt to link two cracks and after 30 minutes and a burned out gun we drilled 1/4 inch. So far there are only traditional routes but they are rad. Up canyon 200 yards on the right there is an anchor 100 feet up over 5 climbs. Its been up for a year so bring some webbing. It's kind of hard to see but if you step back against the other wall you can see it.
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metrogroaz
Jan 21, 2007, 7:53 PM
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Clear Creek Canyon, Winslow, Deep water soloing, classic trad, hard sport............. nuff said
Just don't pick up hitchhikers, the prison is right there.
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climbsomething
Jan 21, 2007, 8:20 PM
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I don't want to flame anybody for their personal route preferences, but IMO, Mickey isn't really that great. It's a 5.9 sport route and the first route off the trail, so I think it's popular by default. But the ears have been broken and the cactus is still there... so... meh. Jacks has plenty of routes that are better than Mickey, but to each their own.
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ccox
Jan 21, 2007, 9:33 PM
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Purple Shark and Energizer-The Pit
Acid Test Crack and Torpedo-Paradise Forks
Black and Tan-The Waterfall
Mission to Mars and Galactic Hitchiker-Sedona
Under Attack-Jack's
Sheep Thrills-Cochise Stronghold
War Hippies-Isolation Canyon
Dead Sea-The Homestead
Modest Mouse/Immodest Monkey-Solitude Canyon
Friend of the Devil and Crown Jewel-Red Dragon
Slammer Jam and Cotimundi/Candyland-Granite Mountain
Absolute Face-Westside Granite Mountain
Be Here Now-Thumb Butte
Ashes Ashes-The Dells
Soloman-Promised Land
Blind Faith-Sanctuary
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raymondjeffrey
Jan 21, 2007, 10:06 PM
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Totem Pole (5.10d) is pretty damn rad. Pockett Puzzle (5.10a) is THE climb at the Pond. Just about everything down at Atlantis is worth the 5 minute slide/approach down there. Learned to lead on Cool Breeze (5.4) down at the Pancake House.
You'd be hard pressed to find a funner roof than Mr. Slate (5.10b).
Next thread...
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crackmd
Jan 29, 2007, 7:38 PM
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I've only been living in Flag for a few months, but I agree with many of your choices.
Paradise Forks-Acid Test and Paradise Lost
Jack's-Under Attack and Swiss Arete
Overlook-any of the Trinities
Pit-The Joker
Sedona-Castles in the Sand
VRG-Mentor
Isolation-No White Flag
I need to get to Granite Mountain, The Homestead, and Cochise.
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sonso45
Jan 29, 2007, 11:41 PM
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I think the following get my vote:
Granite Mtn:Help me Mr Wizard 11c, Coatmundi Whiteout 11c
Cochise:Abracadaver 11a, Absinthe of Mallet, arete finish 9+
Pinnacle Pk:Sidewinder 11a, Shalayay 11c
Tom's Thumb: Deep Freeze 11a
Queen Creek: Queen's Sceptre 12a (near Atlantis), Damsels in Distress 10+ (Lwr Devil's Cyn)
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roadstead
Feb 2, 2007, 11:01 PM
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Manny,
I think maybe the spice box.
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grippedclimer
Feb 23, 2007, 1:30 AM
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Cochise - Hardskins of our Forefathers with Aerete finish.
Granite Mountain - Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland.
Superstitions - The Odyssey
McDowell's - Hanging Gardens
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sed
Feb 23, 2007, 5:54 PM
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the one i'm on
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luiscis
Mar 16, 2007, 9:14 PM
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By far Leviathan Dome Direct Route in the Catalinas, Tucson
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dthompson47
Mar 17, 2007, 6:01 PM
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Climbing for over 30 years in Arizona and California I like climbing on "Chimney Rock" on top of Bill Williams Mountain in Northern Arizona. A excellent 3 pitch route A1-5.9 on the East side a classic route. I also enjoy climbing the Mace in Sedona , Arizona.
(This post was edited by dthompson47 on Mar 17, 2007, 8:07 PM)
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climbsomething
Mar 17, 2007, 8:14 PM
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As for what's good at the crag level, you really can't go wrong anywhere at the Homestead (limestone sport in the desert) or its polar opposite, Paradise Forks (basalt cracks in the woods).
Arizona climbing is remarkably diverse. Even what's kinda lame to one person is rad to another. We truly have it all for rock climbers. But we'll let Colorado continue to think it's the cat's ass
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crackmd
Mar 17, 2007, 11:37 PM
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ccox wrote: Purple Shark and Energizer-The Pit Acid Test Crack and Torpedo-Paradise Forks Black and Tan-The Waterfall Mission to Mars and Galactic Hitchiker-Sedona Under Attack-Jack's Sheep Thrills-Cochise Stronghold War Hippies-Isolation Canyon Dead Sea-The Homestead Modest Mouse/Immodest Monkey-Solitude Canyon Friend of the Devil and Crown Jewel-Red Dragon Slammer Jam and Cotimundi/Candyland-Granite Mountain Absolute Face-Westside Granite Mountain Be Here Now-Thumb Butte Ashes Ashes-The Dells Soloman-Promised Land Blind Faith-Sanctuary
It's hard for me to consider The Energizer in the running for "best route in AZ". It is a fun route and really cool to do laps on. Its short length (about 45 feet) with two excellent rests cut down the excitement as well as classic factor for me.
The criteria I use for designation as an "area classic" are that the route has to either, 1) be a blatent epitomization of all the best an area has to offer, or 2) be diametrically in contrast to what is typical for an area yet still of the highest quality. I would offer Mentor at the VRG and Paradise Lost at PF as examples of #1. I would offer Castles in the Sand as and example of #2 being an Indian Creek type splitter found in Sedona (although I am yet to do Shangri La).
I see the Joker and Total Recall as the classics at the Pit (at least at the harder levels). They are long and varied with multiple cruxes, especially up high on the routes. I consider Mr. Slate a Pit "classic" for its amazing pockets which are typical of Pit climbing but also the fantastic bulge moves which one finds himself climbing much steeper terrain than typically found on 5.10 routes.
Anyway, just my two cents which probably is worth far less than that.
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rmiller
Mar 18, 2007, 3:16 PM
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The 3rd pitch of Shangri La is the biggest 12d sandbag ever. That thing spanked me so hard! The 1st two pitches are very cool and fun. I didn't do 4 and 5, but they look great.
To the left of Shangri La is Smell My Finger and it is wonderful. Every pitch is different and fun. The route tops out now, so you get to summit. This route gets my vote for one of the best "sport" routes in Arizona. Just FYI, there is a short crack on pitch 2 that takes gear. The book says #1 optional, but not for this person. We placed 4 pieces of gear.
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cchas
Mar 21, 2007, 6:46 PM
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Rob, you are bored... but since I am .....
Sport.... haven't done that many in Az but have to say the Joker has lots of quality moves
Trad....Paradise Lost or Three Turkeys (both at Pardise Forks). I love Three Turkeys so much that its usually the frst or second lead I do every time I'm out there. The Prow is pretty good also.
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dirtme
Mar 28, 2007, 4:01 AM
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How about making this more specific. Name the best single pitch routes in AZ that I can climb with my pregnant wife? She'll be 4 months pregnant by the time we head out there. She'll more likely belay the harder stuff and TR in the easy 10 range.
I know we won't be able to climb many of the routes I'd like to in Sedona, but what climbs could get me a feel for AZ and what to do when I'm out there again one day?
I trad low 11's in Yosemite and sport low 12's in most places.
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cchas
Apr 2, 2007, 1:59 PM
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How prego is she? You can walk into Paradise Forks i f rapping is out of the issue. All routes are single pitch and if you are looking for 10's and low .11's definately jump on the Prow, 5.11a. Also over on the Davidsons Wall , Torpedo, and Loose Lips
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dirtme
Apr 2, 2007, 7:57 PM
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Thanks for responding. She'll be 4 1/2 months. We have a full body harness for her but most likely I will not be taking any whippers. So far she isn't showing much so we'll see where she's at in 2-3 weeks.
She shouldn't have any troubles rapping.
We have Paradise Forks on the itinerary and will give the Prow a go.
Thanks again.
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cchas
Apr 2, 2007, 8:49 PM
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Also check out the Davidsons Wall. Everything between Torpedo and Paradise Lost is extremely good.
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honemasterT
Apr 5, 2007, 6:26 AM
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Az Best Routes:
This is a difficult one.. so many great routes to choose from!
Mt. Lemmon / Catalinas
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Chiboni/Quick Death/Black Quacker/Roof exit - Rap Rock
Cherry Jam - Table Mtn.
Cochise
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Whats My Line
Whale Dome (the 5.8 on it.. cant recall the name)
Days of Future Passed
Beeline
Warpaint (the 10 on westworld dome)
Sheepshead (Absinthe)
Inner Passages
Arribas Amoebas
Grand Canyon
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Mt. Hayden
Babo - SE Arete
Elephants Trunk - Mendoza Cyn
Sedona - The Mace, Dr. Rubos Wild Ride
Paradise Forks - Aqualung, East of Eden, the 5.8 on the end of the canyon (black colored wall, over the pond area) Black Rose
Overlook - Isaiah, Angel's Delight
Phx. - Tom's Thumb, Gardners Wall, Tupelo Honey, Birthday Party, Pop, Fly or Die, Pussyfeet, East Face (troon)
Granite Mtn. Coatimundi/Candyland The Classic (crack lovers var.)
Routes I've yet to do.. but would like to
Earthangel (sedona)
Leviathan Dome (catalinas)
Kor Route (sabino Caynon)
Flying Apaches (sedona scenic cruise)
Forrest Lawn (stronghold)
Bleak Steak (granite mtn)
Fear of Flying (pinnacle peak)
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aerili
Apr 24, 2007, 11:57 PM
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Hmmm, my standard as for Arizona's best is what I would like to climb more than once--and not to just get a redpoint or something, it has to be because the route is so much fun for me. This includes:
* Steel Crazy and Rupley's Route - Mt Lemmon
* Beat Feet and Space Cadets - McDowells, Morrell's Wall
* Mars Attacks - Sedona
* WarPaint - Cochise
* Green Horns/Green Dagger - Granite Mtn
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sed
Apr 25, 2007, 7:00 PM
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this just goes to show how meaningless those stars are in guidebooks. Some of you have listed routes that I think are a waste of time, some i would agree with. We all have different tastes and ideas of what we think makes a good route.
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socalbolter
Apr 28, 2007, 1:28 AM
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A few people earlier on have mentioned The Homestead. I've just this Spring discovered the crag and have spent over 20 days there already. It's my new addiction.
The one route listed specifically earlier in this thread, Dead Sea - 13a, is pretty amazing and a good example of what the crag has to offer. But not everything good there is hard. There are pretty amazing climbs in the 5.12, 5.11, 5.10 and sub-5.10 ranges too.
It really is unbelievable to me that more people are not climbing there.
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raymondjeffrey
Apr 28, 2007, 5:34 AM
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Yea, Louie is right. The Homestead is nothing less than a testament to the vision of the developers. When you consider the entire set-up you can see just how lucky we are to be close to it:
Free camping
Relative Isolation / Privacy
Route Quality
Route Potential
Scenery
Approach time / caloric out-take
Range of Difficulty (otherwise known as RoD)
Fun Factor
This year is gonna be good. Y'all should plan on coming out. I'm bringing my solar shower this year cuz I can't sleep after a day of sweating. I don't know why I just told y'all that....
jefro
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dthompson47
Sep 4, 2007, 6:40 PM
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History
Climbing on Bill Williams Mountain
Original Route (north face) 5.9 FA: Mark Powell, Don Wilson, Bill "Dolt" Feuerer 1957
This route was supposedly done on the way to climb the first ascent of the Totem Pole in Monument Valley. Bring one 60 meter rope, RPs, wires and cams up to #3. Scramble up to the saddle on the north side of the pinnacle. Go 30 feet downhill (northwest) from the saddle to a small talus field.
Pitch 1: Climb an obvious crack up a broken corner for 20 feet. Angle left up a bushy ramp for 30 feet until you are below an obvious vertical crack. Face climb up along the thin vertical crack past fixed knifeblades (crux) to a ledge below the summit blocks. Work up and right through the blocks to the summit and a rappel anchor. Descent: Rappel with one rope. You may want to bring a 20-foot length of sling/rope to reinforce the anchor.
South Face 5.9 FA: Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter 1967
Bring one 60 meter rope, cams to #3 (extra #1&2) and some slings. Start near a fir tree at the southeast corner of the tower.
Pitch 1: Climb up an obvious, moderate dihedral to its top (5.7). Go up and left under a block to a nice ledge (possible belay here). Climb the steep thin hands crack above the ledge (crux) to the summit blocks. Worm up and left through the blocks to the summit and a rappel anchor. Descent: Rappel with one rope down the north face. You may want to bring a 20-foot length of sling/rope to reinforce the anchor.
East Face 5.9 A-1 FA Don Thompson, Paul Richardson 1983
First Ascent of the East face of Chimney Rock or Finger Rock, a excellent climb. Pitch 1: Climb a moderate dihedral to a excelent belay ledge (5.5.)Pitch 2 Aid or free climb a hand crack (5.9 mixed A1 climbing)) to a hole that will take you through the rock to the other side. The key to the summit. Descent, rappel the route.A Classic Route 5.5, A1 Put up in the early 80s by Don Thompson and Paul Richardson. This route Joins the origional route put up in the late 50s near the top.
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