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Best routes in AZ?
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dirtme


Apr 2, 2007, 7:57 PM
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Re: [cchas] Best routes in AZ? [In reply to]
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Thanks for responding. She'll be 4 1/2 months. We have a full body harness for her but most likely I will not be taking any whippers. So far she isn't showing much so we'll see where she's at in 2-3 weeks.

She shouldn't have any troubles rapping.

We have Paradise Forks on the itinerary and will give the Prow a go.

Thanks again.


cchas


Apr 2, 2007, 8:49 PM
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Re: [dirtme] Best routes in AZ? [In reply to]
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Also check out the Davidsons Wall. Everything between Torpedo and Paradise Lost is extremely good.


honemasterT


Apr 5, 2007, 6:26 AM
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Re: [rmiller] Best routes in AZ? [In reply to]
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Az Best Routes:

This is a difficult one.. so many great routes to choose from!



Mt. Lemmon / Catalinas
---------------------------
Chiboni/Quick Death/Black Quacker/Roof exit - Rap Rock
Cherry Jam - Table Mtn.

Cochise
--------
Whats My Line
Whale Dome (the 5.8 on it.. cant recall the name)
Days of Future Passed
Beeline
Warpaint (the 10 on westworld dome)
Sheepshead (Absinthe)
Inner Passages
Arribas Amoebas


Grand Canyon
---------------
Mt. Hayden

Babo - SE Arete
Elephants Trunk - Mendoza Cyn

Sedona - The Mace, Dr. Rubos Wild Ride

Paradise Forks - Aqualung, East of Eden, the 5.8 on the end of the canyon (black colored wall, over the pond area) Black Rose

Overlook - Isaiah, Angel's Delight

Phx. - Tom's Thumb, Gardners Wall, Tupelo Honey, Birthday Party, Pop, Fly or Die, Pussyfeet, East Face (troon)

Granite Mtn. Coatimundi/Candyland The Classic (crack lovers var.)

Routes I've yet to do.. but would like to

Earthangel (sedona)
Leviathan Dome (catalinas)
Kor Route (sabino Caynon)
Flying Apaches (sedona scenic cruise)
Forrest Lawn (stronghold)
Bleak Steak (granite mtn)
Fear of Flying (pinnacle peak)


aerili


Apr 24, 2007, 11:57 PM
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Re: [honemasterT] Best routes in AZ? [In reply to]
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Hmmm, my standard as for Arizona's best is what I would like to climb more than once--and not to just get a redpoint or something, it has to be because the route is so much fun for me. This includes:

* Steel Crazy and Rupley's Route - Mt Lemmon
* Beat Feet and Space Cadets - McDowells, Morrell's Wall
* Mars Attacks - Sedona
* WarPaint - Cochise
* Green Horns/Green Dagger - Granite Mtn


sed


Apr 25, 2007, 7:00 PM
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Re: [aerili] Best routes in AZ? [In reply to]
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this just goes to show how meaningless those stars are in guidebooks. Some of you have listed routes that I think are a waste of time, some i would agree with. We all have different tastes and ideas of what we think makes a good route.


azrockclimber


Apr 25, 2007, 7:24 PM
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Re: [sed] Best routes in AZ? [In reply to]
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sed wrote:
this just goes to show how meaningless those stars are in guidebooks. Some of you have listed routes that I think are a waste of time, some i would agree with. We all have different tastes and ideas of what we think makes a good route.


AGREED!!!! Especially those P.O.S. falcon guides....

Unimpressed

Cochise is so sweet.... I like the warpaint call, absinthe is pretty damn awesome.... there are just too many to even begin picking.

who said jacks canyon.... I guess if you need an ego boost it rocks....


(This post was edited by azrockclimber on Apr 25, 2007, 7:27 PM)


socalbolter


Apr 28, 2007, 1:28 AM
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Re: [azrockclimber] Best routes in AZ? [In reply to]
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A few people earlier on have mentioned The Homestead. I've just this Spring discovered the crag and have spent over 20 days there already. It's my new addiction.

The one route listed specifically earlier in this thread, Dead Sea - 13a, is pretty amazing and a good example of what the crag has to offer. But not everything good there is hard. There are pretty amazing climbs in the 5.12, 5.11, 5.10 and sub-5.10 ranges too.

It really is unbelievable to me that more people are not climbing there.


raymondjeffrey


Apr 28, 2007, 5:34 AM
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Re: [socalbolter] Best routes in AZ? [In reply to]
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Yea, Louie is right. The Homestead is nothing less than a testament to the vision of the developers. When you consider the entire set-up you can see just how lucky we are to be close to it:

Free camping
Relative Isolation / Privacy
Route Quality
Route Potential
Scenery
Approach time / caloric out-take
Range of Difficulty (otherwise known as RoD)
Fun Factor

This year is gonna be good. Y'all should plan on coming out. I'm bringing my solar shower this year cuz I can't sleep after a day of sweating. I don't know why I just told y'all that....

jefro


dthompson47


Sep 4, 2007, 6:40 PM
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Re: [rmiller] Best routes in AZ? [In reply to]
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History
Climbing on Bill Williams Mountain

Original Route (north face) 5.9 FA: Mark Powell, Don Wilson, Bill "Dolt" Feuerer 1957
This route was supposedly done on the way to climb the first ascent of the Totem Pole in Monument Valley. Bring one 60 meter rope, RPs, wires and cams up to #3. Scramble up to the saddle on the north side of the pinnacle. Go 30 feet downhill (northwest) from the saddle to a small talus field.
Pitch 1: Climb an obvious crack up a broken corner for 20 feet. Angle left up a bushy ramp for 30 feet until you are below an obvious vertical crack. Face climb up along the thin vertical crack past fixed knifeblades (crux) to a ledge below the summit blocks. Work up and right through the blocks to the summit and a rappel anchor. Descent: Rappel with one rope. You may want to bring a 20-foot length of sling/rope to reinforce the anchor.

South Face 5.9 FA: Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter 1967
Bring one 60 meter rope, cams to #3 (extra #1&2) and some slings. Start near a fir tree at the southeast corner of the tower.
Pitch 1: Climb up an obvious, moderate dihedral to its top (5.7). Go up and left under a block to a nice ledge (possible belay here). Climb the steep thin hands crack above the ledge (crux) to the summit blocks. Worm up and left through the blocks to the summit and a rappel anchor. Descent: Rappel with one rope down the north face. You may want to bring a 20-foot length of sling/rope to reinforce the anchor.

East Face 5.9 A-1 FA Don Thompson, Paul Richardson 1983
First Ascent of the East face of Chimney Rock or Finger Rock, a excellent climb. Pitch 1: Climb a moderate dihedral to a excelent belay ledge (5.5.)Pitch 2 Aid or free climb a hand crack (5.9 mixed A1 climbing)) to a hole that will take you through the rock to the other side. The key to the summit. Descent, rappel the route.A Classic Route 5.5, A1 Put up in the early 80s by Don Thompson and Paul Richardson. This route Joins the origional route put up in the late 50s near the top.

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