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the_climber
Aug 15, 2007, 6:05 PM
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Click Here for EVENTS CALENDAR
Regular BVX5.4 PUB NITE - Every Wednesday
Held at:
Nick's Steakhouse & Pizza
2430 Crowchild Trail NW
Last updated: 04/26/08
Updated for BVX5.4 Events Calender
This is an ongoing thread started like any other, the difference is at some point Beer was mentioned and a small group of Calgary climbers met at a pub for a pint. As fate would have it the next week more climbers met, then more and it became a weekly event. The weekly pub night has become a forum to plan trips, weekends, tell tall tales of past adventures, talk about routes we would like to climb, new routes we have climbed, routes that we flat out got denied on, and of course drink beer and banter about life in general.
To call us a "Club" would be a little misleading and would give our organizational skills more credit than they may deserve. Rather we are more of an eclectic loose knit group of local climbers who strive to explore the Canadian Rockies in our own way… telling tall tales of exaggerated glory around the campfire or at the Pub afterwards.
MacGillivary Slabs in the Bow Valley - Route: Pixie
Has anyone here done this route? Rockguide? Skinner? Anyone?
We went up there a couple weekends ago... I could follow the line as described in the book, started up the first pitch and Shit I couldn't find any good pro at all. I could see a few good spots for pins, but left them at home that day. Am I missing something here? Is it really just that run out, like the whole pitch run out? Does it get better higher up? I saw some variations, but the rock didn't look any better for Pro.
I ended up down climbing the pitch and taking off down the drainage for a Canyoneering-esk decent and some craging elsewhere.
Edit: For title change.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jul 27, 2009, 3:43 PM)
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rockguide
Aug 15, 2007, 7:23 PM
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I have not done the route - but an observation:
routes of that era (1971 - pitons only for pro around here) that are rarely done (and so have not been built up with fixed gear) on that type of stone (compact limestone slab of the McConnell formation) will involve both bringing pitons and an open mind regarding "adequate protection" and "solid belays".
Yam takes gear well - that wall, not so much.
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the_climber
Aug 15, 2007, 7:25 PM
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Thanks Brian. That's kinda what I was starting to think. Ran into the same thing on Tony's Route on MacGillivary, but I had pins that day, so no retreat due to lack of Pro!
We still need to go for beers BTW.
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skinner
Sep 2, 2007, 9:53 PM
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Sorry I missed this.. only by a couple of weeks though 
Pixie.. it vaguely rings a bell. Where is it?
McGillivray.. if you're not following a prominent feature (crack) it's generally KB's, and even then you may find yourself trying to force them into hairline fracture just to get *something* in.
When we put up "Faye" (5.9) I ended up going back and adding bolts to eliminate 40" and 60' run-outs that some non-piton friends told me they just weren't willing to go past.
Brians absolutely right, it's just the inherent nature of the rock there that doesn't lend itself well to passive pro, but great friction eh?
..and if you guys haven't gone for that beer yet, PM me, I wouldn't mind meeting up with you.
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jumpingrock
Sep 4, 2007, 9:51 PM
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Count me in for beer and not liking 40' - 60' run outs.
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thomasribiere
Sep 4, 2007, 9:52 PM
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hey, jr, back in Canada!?
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jumpingrock
Sep 4, 2007, 10:18 PM
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Unhappily ;)
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skinner
Sep 5, 2007, 1:41 AM
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the_climber wrote: Pixe is on the right edge of that bowl where Pythagoras (sp?) 5.7 is. In my haste that day the pins were left in the basment gear pile. 
Do you know, who did it, when? Can't find my Bow Valley Guide.. is it in there? We put up a route.. waaaaaaaay back, a long time ago that I guess would be just to the right of Pixie then, a sort of faintish Kahl's Crack looking thing that leans slightly to the right.
the_climber wrote: 40 inch and 60 foot runouts, eh?  
Ya well ya know.. some day's I'm not very ballzy, and 40" feels run out like fark.
the_climber wrote: As for beers, maybe we can get something going for this week or next. Just need to figure out a location that works for everyone... I'm in the SE, but don't mind driving a bit, just don't want to drive across the whole city... Fucking Calgary drivers 
I'm in the SW, so same half of the city anyways.. and if JR's in the south too, were set! How about Brian, do you know if he's around?
As far as when, I'm pretty easy, (no life) so you guys just pick a day. maybe a place too
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rockguide
Sep 5, 2007, 2:49 AM
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skinner wrote: the_climber wrote: Pixe is on the right edge of that bowl where Pythagoras (sp?) 5.7 is. In my haste that day the pins were left in the basment gear pile. Do you know, who did it, when? Can't find my Bow Valley Guide.. is it in there? We put up a route.. waaaaaaaay back, a long time ago that I guess would be just to the right of Pixie then, a sort of faintish Kahl's Crack looking thing that leans slightly to the right. the_climber wrote: 40 inch and 60 foot runouts, eh? Ya well ya know.. some day's I'm not very ballzy, and 40" feels run out like fark. the_climber wrote: As for beers, maybe we can get something going for this week or next. Just need to figure out a location that works for everyone... I'm in the SE, but don't mind driving a bit, just don't want to drive across the whole city... Fucking Calgary drivers I'm in the SW, so same half of the city anyways.. and if JR's in the south too, were set! How about Brian, do you know if he's around? As far as when, I'm pretty easy, (no life) so you guys just pick a day. maybe a place too
Wednesday would be good - busy Thursday.
Molly Malones in Kensington? Very central and they serve beer. I checked.
B
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skinner
Sep 5, 2007, 3:29 AM
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rockguide wrote: Wednesday would be good - busy Thursday. Molly Malones in Kensington? Very central and they serve beer. I checked. B
Like.. tomorrow Wednesday?
Kensington.. hrmm.. that blows my no crossing a bridge theory..
Ah.. wtf, I'm easy, works for me.
What time'ish?
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rockguide
Sep 5, 2007, 4:58 AM
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skinner wrote: rockguide wrote: Wednesday would be good - busy Thursday. Molly Malones in Kensington? Very central and they serve beer. I checked. B Like.. tomorrow Wednesday? Kensington.. hrmm.. that blows my no crossing a bridge theory.. Ah.. wtf, I'm easy, works for me. What time'ish?
No crossing bridges? You are not a vampire, are you?
8:00 is good for me.
B
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skinner
Sep 5, 2007, 5:31 AM
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rockguide wrote: No crossing bridges? You are not a vampire, are you?
No.. I'm just scared of heights
rockguide wrote: 8:00 is good for me. B
Works for me too
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the_climber
Sep 5, 2007, 3:41 PM
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Sadly I woun't be able to make it Tonight (Wednesday).... There's this little thing with the Inlaws rolling into town tonight, and well, my hands are tied... I would REALLY like to get to the bar tonight... REALLY!
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jumpingrock
Sep 5, 2007, 5:08 PM
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Tonight, 9:00 would work better for me. Emilie is dragging me shopping... something about needing a table. I don't understand why we couldn't just eat off the floor.
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rockguide
Sep 5, 2007, 6:38 PM
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jumpingrock wrote: Tonight, 9:00 would work better for me. Emilie is dragging me shopping... something about needing a table. I don't understand why we couldn't just eat off the floor.
I know! the floor is fine.
We will still be there
B
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rockbetty
Sep 5, 2007, 6:38 PM
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well, it would keep the cats away from your food, and you wouldn't have to strain as much to look up to the tv...
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fraggle76
Sep 5, 2007, 7:10 PM
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Love the sig rockbetty
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rockguide
Sep 5, 2007, 8:03 PM
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fraggle76 wrote: Love the sig rockbetty
You are welcome to join us at the pub. We will be sitting on the floor.
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rockguide
Sep 5, 2007, 8:05 PM
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rockbetty wrote: well, it would keep the cats away from your food, and you wouldn't have to strain as much to look up to the tv...
At least I don't have to worry about rats here!
Another albertan! You are also welcome to join us, We will be sitting on the floor. But if your cats make a move on my guinness, there is going to be trouble.
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the_climber
Sep 5, 2007, 8:09 PM
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rockguide wrote: fraggle76 wrote: Love the sig rockbetty You are welcome to join us at the pub. We will be sitting on the floor.
So Brian... falling down and not being able to get back up counts as sitting on the floor?
Sweet!
All those times I let them kick me out of the Liberty Lounge.... and I could have use that line to stay, damn. (You should know that back in the day the Staff of the Lib were some of the most frequently kick out patrons due to excessive intoxication, MRC fact)
(This post was edited by the_climber on Sep 5, 2007, 8:11 PM)
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jumpingrock
Sep 5, 2007, 8:24 PM
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rockguide wrote: rockbetty wrote: well, it would keep the cats away from your food, and you wouldn't have to strain as much to look up to the tv... At least I don't have to worry about rats here! Another albertan! You are also welcome to join us, We will be sitting on the floor. But if your cats make a move on my guinness, there is going to be trouble.
rockbetty is only technically an Albertan based on a puppy dog love that dragged her to the devil's money from beautiful Victoria. Which she pines about at every possible moment but most often when it's blossom season in Victoria. But I suppose she could also come for beers just cause she's pretty. And she doesn't have cats so you don't need to be concerned. However, when you come to my bbq on the 17th, best bring a coffee mug for your guiness or I can't be held responsible for the actions of my kitties.
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rockbetty
Sep 5, 2007, 8:26 PM
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well, I also have a little thing called inlaws visiting, so tonight is cleaning time in preparation (quick! throw everything in the closets!). but thanks for the invite - would love to join sometime. and you needn't worry about cats going after your guinness - it's me who'd be the real danger to your brew....
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lhwang
Sep 5, 2007, 8:33 PM
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I thought you were supposed to clothes shop on Monday... or did you make it out to back of the lake after all?
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climb_eng
Sep 5, 2007, 8:36 PM
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Is there room for Cathy and I at the pub?
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