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jimo
Sep 11, 2007, 8:34 PM
Post #26 of 57
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Thanks for all of the input, I just re racked my cams on biners, seperated my nuts and put the hardware back on the sling. Now everthing is nice and neat!
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lithiummetalman
Sep 11, 2007, 9:11 PM
Post #27 of 57
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I pretty much rack whatever the pitch, climb, or system might demand. In general I rack on my harness, but I always carry a dedicated modified runner (A 24" nylon runner with one section taped down, where gear can be clipped too /out without getting caught) that can be used as a gear sling or as an emergency sling in a pinch; can decide on the fly (belay station) to whether to re-rack onto sling or harness. If not in use i usually just cram it into my pocket.
In general
front right loop: cams in front (each on own biner), then 1/2 set of nuts in rear
front left loop: cams in front (each on own biner), then 1/2 set of nuts in rear
right rear loop: trad draws stacked, 2 ovals, nut tool with 5mm cord sling
left rear loop: trad draws stacked, 2 lockers, atc
haul loop: 8 foot mammut 10mm sling wound around a DMM pearshaped biner
Shoulder: depending on climb, i move anywhere from 2-8 trad draws into extended from over my shoulder or none at all (generally do not like to have slings over shoulder)
edited: for my continuing retardation in the english language
(This post was edited by lithiummetalman on Sep 11, 2007, 9:20 PM)
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jeff_m
Sep 11, 2007, 10:21 PM
Post #29 of 57
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glytch wrote: jeff_m wrote: And two cordelettes? Sure, why not. I had an "experienced" climber (sport) following recently and when he came up to the second belay (on a long diagonal pitch) I asked him where the anchor was from the first belay. "Oh, I left it there. Can't we get it on the way down?" But, hey. Improvisation is a big part of the fun.  I bet the next party coming up really enjoyed all the great booty...  How many more pitches on the route? Did you kill the partner?
I was more dumbfounded than pissed. 3 pitches, two raps, then led the first pitch again to clean and rap. (More rock for me!)
Oh, looks like my work is done for the day...I'm goin' climbin'!
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lofstromc
Sep 11, 2007, 10:56 PM
Post #30 of 57
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What do you all think of the BD zodiac gear sling.
I haven't used it yet, but I do like the way the gear sits when I load it up.
The gear reviews talk about modifying it so the gear wont slosh around and end up behind you and out of reach. Does anyone know how this would be done?
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dingus
Sep 11, 2007, 11:25 PM
Post #31 of 57
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You ever see the guy at the gym that has a nut tool on his harness? AT the GYM???? Ever notice the looks that garner from the more experienced denizens?
That's how trad climbers look at noobs wearing Big Wall harnesses and gear slings on some 5.7 beginner climb. Exactly like that.
Now you may scoff at the notion of cool. But then again, I may have just saved you from the ole "potato goes in front' gaff.
DMT
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AZrockclimber1988
Sep 11, 2007, 11:52 PM
Post #32 of 57
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The front two loops, I put all the cams on. The top two rear loops, passive gear and trad draws. The bottem rear two, I put ATC, nut tool, and the other stuff I dont need much. Never use a shoulder sling, to much of a pain for me, like it all on the harness. Also I like all cams on their own biners, makes life simply.
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fulton
Sep 12, 2007, 12:18 AM
Post #34 of 57
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dingus wrote: noobs wearing Big Wall harnesses and gear slings on some 5.7 beginner climb.
It's the dozen new camalots racked upon it, not the sling itself, and a matter strictkly of jealousy.
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dingus
Sep 12, 2007, 12:38 AM
Post #35 of 57
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Yes that giggling you hear is jealousy!
DMT
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vegastradguy
Sep 12, 2007, 1:25 AM
Post #36 of 57
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i feel like the odd guy out- i use the multi-loop gear sling from Metolius and i love it. non-looped slings bug me- everything gets so clustered together (imho). but, its all in what you prefer- i know lots of guys who climb on 1" webbing for a sling, and lots of guys who use the multi-loop- everyone has their preference. no big deal as long as you are efficient at changing gear at belays.
i'll also second what art says- know how to use the rope for anchor- i've stopped carrying a cordelette...i carry a 48" sling for the odd time i need it, but mostly i anchor with the rope.
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kellie
Sep 12, 2007, 9:33 PM
Post #37 of 57
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My nut tool and prussiks stay on my harness at all times or I don't have them when I need them. If anyone at the gym has noticed or cared, I never noticed.
I've always hated gear slings, they're always in my way, can't see my feet, they swing around and throw me off balance on hard stuff, once I get a piece off I can never get it back on in the right place because everything's all jammed up together, I spend more time getting them out of my way than climbing.
That said, I've always believed a good climber should be able to climb on anybody's retarded system anywhere on any terrain, so if my partner is a big gear sling aficionado, I climb with one and rack on my harness for any particular pitch that is at my limit.
Dingus dude how you doing? Haven't heard from you in ages.
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caughtinside
Sep 12, 2007, 9:49 PM
Post #38 of 57
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lotta good advice in here!
multi loop slings suck.
gear sling superior to harness racking 90% of the time.
Ditch the cordelettes. I haven't climbed with one for 3 years now. like I told my partner last week, "Leave that on the ground."
"What will I do for an anchor?"
"You'll think of something."
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petsfed
Sep 12, 2007, 10:05 PM
Post #39 of 57
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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dingus wrote: Yes that giggling you hear is jealousy! DMT
I'm always ashamed when I have a shiny new cam, even if its just because I needed a 2nd/3rd/15th cam in that same size. I can see the judgmental eyes and contemptuous chuckles of Dingus Milquetoasts the world over every time I do.
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fresh
Sep 13, 2007, 12:12 AM
Post #40 of 57
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I actually bought this
without intending to actually climb with it. it's a great tool for carrying gear between climbs while keeping it organized.
(This post was edited by fresh on Sep 13, 2007, 12:12 AM)
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xjlx
Sep 13, 2007, 2:04 PM
Post #41 of 57
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Registered: Oct 24, 2005
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I use a 1" webbing for a gear sling - have used it on all but one pitch where I just racked on the harness which is nice when you know what you need on the pitch. I rack starting in the front with:
tricams: the "fab four" (pink-purple) on one biner
stoppers: split into two biners (big and small)
tcus: blue through red on one biner
camalots 1&2 on one biner
if needed larger cams on their own biners
on the harness:
left loop has my trad draws with one 48" in the back of the loop
rear left loop has equalette or slings for anchor.
rear right loop has reverso, prussic, biner for clipping in to the anchor.
right side loop has my nut tool
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jimo
Sep 14, 2007, 11:35 AM
Post #42 of 57
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Registered: Apr 21, 2005
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Using the rope to anchor yourself in is somewhat elementary but I wonder how to build a gear anchor and equalize it using the rope that you're climbing with. I've been running the scenerio through my pea brain and can't figure out how to do that without causing an unsafe situation when my 2nd reaches the belay station and I take the lead again. Perhaps TFOTH will enlighten me.
BTW I'm with VTG on the multi loop gear sling, if it turns out that the loops are troublesome I have a knife and know how to use it.
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glytch
Sep 14, 2007, 1:47 PM
Post #43 of 57
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Registered: Aug 29, 2006
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jimo wrote: Using the rope to anchor yourself in is somewhat elementary but I wonder how to build a gear anchor and equalize it using the rope that you're climbing with. I've been running the scenerio through my pea brain and can't figure out how to do that without causing an unsafe situation when my 2nd reaches the belay station and I take the lead again. Perhaps TFOTH will enlighten me. BTW I'm with VTG on the multi loop gear sling, if it turns out that the loops are troublesome I have a knife and know how to use it.
When someone talks about building an anchor with the rope, they mean using the rope to connect the pieces of pro, not just tying the climber into the anchor. Anyway, it's really only practical if you're swinging leads with your partner, ie. your partner is leading the next pitch. If you are going to lead the next pitch, it really makes sense to have a powerpoint in the anchor so they can clip in and you can clip out easily.
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tomtom
Sep 14, 2007, 4:10 PM
Post #44 of 57
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vegastradguy wrote: i feel like the odd guy out- i use the multi-loop gear sling from Metolius and i love it.
I use one too. Actually, sometimes I use two.
Don't worry about the Climbing Police. They're just angry about everything.
(This post was edited by tomtom on Sep 14, 2007, 4:12 PM)
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dynamo_
Sep 14, 2007, 4:15 PM
Post #45 of 57
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
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I generally rack on my harness for single pitch and on a sling for swinging leads on multipitch.
I have used the Zodiac for climbing at one area with routes REQUIRING (as in not taking them just in case) two sets of cams for repeated 180-200' pitches. Worked well.
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dynoho
Sep 14, 2007, 4:46 PM
Post #46 of 57
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Registered: Jul 16, 2006
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angry wrote: There's nothing wrong with a gear sling like this [image]http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/GearSlings-Slings/adjustablegearsling_lg.jpg[/image] You can still move it behind you and swing it and easily switch sides with it But this [image]http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/GearSlings-Slings/multiloopgearsling_lg.jpg[/image] Pretty much designed to look cool in the store and sell, never to be used again. I've met one climber in my life who's got one of these that used it more than once. Speaks volumes.
Angry,
Have you used the D-sling and if so, what are the cons? I've been thinking about getting one for better organization. It seems like this would help keep my nuts out of the cams. Is it more difficult to switch or swing? Just curious.
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dingus
Sep 14, 2007, 4:49 PM
Post #47 of 57
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kellie wrote: Dingus dude how you doing? Haven't heard from you in ages.
How WE rack?
You gym climbers are all the same!
Kellie no one notices your nut tool!!!111
They're too busy lookin at yer butt! Can't say I blame em but 'cool' is different for us posturing guys, you know that.
I'm doing OK. Works been real busy this fall which is a good thing. Climbing some, hanging with the kids, abusing substances, you know, the usual.
I have been SERIOUSLY pining for some ICE kellie. Just a little North Peak or something.
Good times huh?
I can KICK AGAIN! FRONT POINT EVEN!
And it was 26 degrees in Mammoth last night. 2 week road trip coming up for work, then maybe... MAYBE... I swing tools for the first time in 3+ years!
How you doing girl? Miss ya! Here's to our next summit!
Cheers
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Sep 14, 2007, 5:02 PM)
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dingus
Sep 14, 2007, 4:51 PM
Post #48 of 57
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petsfed wrote: dingus wrote: Yes that giggling you hear is jealousy! DMT I'm always ashamed when I have a shiny new cam, even if its just because I needed a 2nd/3rd/15th cam in that same size. I can see the judgmental eyes and contemptuous chuckles of Dingus Milquetoasts the world over every time I do.
Not me buddy. I'm only marginally aware. I'm with the Bad Boys in the back of the bouldering cave, billows if questionable smoke wafting amongst the fake rocks. I'd be all...
right on.
DMT
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the_climber
Sep 14, 2007, 4:57 PM
Post #49 of 57
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tomtom wrote: vegastradguy wrote: i feel like the odd guy out- i use the multi-loop gear sling from Metolius and i love it. I use one too. Actually, sometimes I use two. Don't worry about the Climbing Police. They're just angry about everything.
I use the multi loop sling too. For me it's great... keeps things separated and organized. That said I will often rack on my harness for shorter climbs, and will typically use a 1" sling if I am using a limited selection of gear.
Then Again, when using Darkside's rack on Bonanza (Ghost, Alberta) last weekend I racked on my harness...
I think the key is having the system you typically use down pat, but still keeping that flexibility to use other systems. No one system of racking is best for all climbs.
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dlintz
Sep 14, 2007, 6:15 PM
Post #50 of 57
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
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Lotta people here racking everything on the harness. Personally I don't like all the gear tugging my harness down, so unless it's single pitch or can take a light rack my pro goes on a sling....a multilooped sling (gasp).
d.
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