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obe
Jan 6, 2008, 7:35 PM
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sandstone climber just put up a forum with the discussion of chipping an already climbed and climbable problem. but what about an unclimbable problem? A few of my friends and i found this boulder with a few really cool problems on it. but on one side of the boulder is the mosr beautiful line there: 3 feet of vertical wall leading to a perfect about 12 foot rounded overhand, probably 45 degrees, with a perfect top out. the problem: there is not a SINGLE feature on it. so, i know this isnt a problem i think that the "future generation" can send. i really want to chip or glue holds on it and make it a rad line, but it somehow feels wrong. Opinions?
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jakedatc
Jan 6, 2008, 7:56 PM
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obe wrote: sandstone climber just put up a forum with the discussion of chipping an already climbed and climbable problem. but what about an unclimbable problem? A few of my friends and i found this boulder with a few really cool problems on it. but on one side of the boulder is the mosr beautiful line there: 3 feet of vertical wall leading to a perfect about 12 foot rounded overhand, probably 45 degrees, with a perfect top out. the problem: there is not a SINGLE feature on it. so, i know this isnt a problem i think that the "future generation" can send. i really want to chip or glue holds on it and make it a rad line, but it somehow feels wrong. Opinions?
it is wrong.. go die you weak ass troll
T -10
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obe
Jan 6, 2008, 8:13 PM
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fuck this site im done with it.
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petsfed
Jan 6, 2008, 8:19 PM
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jakedatc wrote: obe wrote: sandstone climber just put up a forum with the discussion of chipping an already climbed and climbable problem. but what about an unclimbable problem? A few of my friends and i found this boulder with a few really cool problems on it. but on one side of the boulder is the mosr beautiful line there: 3 feet of vertical wall leading to a perfect about 12 foot rounded overhand, probably 45 degrees, with a perfect top out. the problem: there is not a SINGLE feature on it. so, i know this isnt a problem i think that the "future generation" can send. i really want to chip or glue holds on it and make it a rad line, but it somehow feels wrong. Opinions? it is wrong.. go die you weak ass troll T -10
Other accepted responses include: just because you can't see it going doesn't mean it won't go, maybe you don't have to climb it, and does the idea of modifying the rock to fit your preferences give you an erection?
I've seen a lot of rock that had no holds. But I've seen plenty more that has tons of holds. Nobody's holding a gun to your head and making you climb the boulder, especially given that there are other problems on it already. Leave it for a future generation, because it will get sent, eventually.
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jakedatc
Jan 6, 2008, 8:49 PM
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obe wrote: fuck this site im done with it.
thanks for playing.. don't chip rocks or expect a serious response locally
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bent_gate
Jan 6, 2008, 8:50 PM
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petsfed wrote: jakedatc wrote: obe wrote: sandstone climber just put up a forum with the discussion of chipping an already climbed and climbable problem. but what about an unclimbable problem? A few of my friends and i found this boulder with a few really cool problems on it. but on one side of the boulder is the mosr beautiful line there: 3 feet of vertical wall leading to a perfect about 12 foot rounded overhand, probably 45 degrees, with a perfect top out. the problem: there is not a SINGLE feature on it. so, i know this isnt a problem i think that the "future generation" can send. i really want to chip or glue holds on it and make it a rad line, but it somehow feels wrong. Opinions? it is wrong.. go die you weak ass troll T -10 Other accepted responses include: just because you can't see it going doesn't mean it won't go, maybe you don't have to climb it, and does the idea of modifying the rock to fit your preferences give you an erection? I've seen a lot of rock that had no holds. But I've seen plenty more that has tons of holds. Nobody's holding a gun to your head and making you climb the boulder, especially given that there are other problems on it already. Leave it for a future generation, because it will get sent, eventually.
other accepted responses: It's bouldering, who cares...
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spikeddem
Jan 6, 2008, 8:59 PM
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Chip that face, and the locals might chip your face.
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salamanizer
Jan 6, 2008, 9:49 PM
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How about; Because I don't want to see your chipped desecration.
Have you no respect for for nature? It's not your personal climbing gym. It's not going to be some "rad" line. Its going to be a vile, mutilated eye sore. Not everything needs to be climbed. If it goes, great. If it doesn't, tuff shit. If you chip it, you'll regret it in the future.
I'm sure you have the common sense and self respect to know this already.
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MikeSaint
Jan 6, 2008, 11:56 PM
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obe wrote: sandstone climber just put up a forum with the discussion of chipping an already climbed and climbable problem. but what about an unclimbable problem? A few of my friends and i found this boulder with a few really cool problems on it. but on one side of the boulder is the mosr beautiful line there: 3 feet of vertical wall leading to a perfect about 12 foot rounded overhand, probably 45 degrees, with a perfect top out. the problem: there is not a SINGLE feature on it. so, i know this isnt a problem i think that the "future generation" can send. i really want to chip or glue holds on it and make it a rad line, but it somehow feels wrong. Opinions?
Listen to the little voice in your head.
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ajkclay
Jan 7, 2008, 12:02 AM
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Hmmm....
we currently have a chipping problem here in South Australia.
It seems that some try hard is altering routes to suit himself, removing gastons, increasing the size of the hold left behind and then cleaning them vigorously with a wire brush so he can get his pathetic arse up routes he has no business being on.
If anyone catches him he'll wish he'd never put his filthy mitts on a chisel or scrubbing brush, and also wonder how best to remove them without an embarrasing trip to the proctologist.
Die Chippers!
(edit: typo)
(This post was edited by ajkclay on Jan 7, 2008, 12:03 AM)
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evanwish
Jan 7, 2008, 12:21 AM
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i second all the above!
plus its just easier to something else that you can climb.
you and the community will feel much better about that decision.
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onceahardman
Jan 7, 2008, 12:22 AM
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If it is on your property, it is your rock, do whatever you want.
If it is public property, it's NOT YOUR ROCK! leave it alone!
what is wrong? you can't find enough problems?
or is it that you want to get your name in the guidebook?
go put up a woodie in your parent's yard, and then you can do what you want.
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joeforte
Jan 7, 2008, 1:19 AM
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Pathetic
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sky7high
Jan 7, 2008, 2:35 AM
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how about you chip boulder problems on the wall of your house, and STAY THERE!
Troll.
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sandstoned
Jan 7, 2008, 3:01 AM
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The OP suggested that I started the other, also rediculous, chipping thread; that is false.
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Adrian_Falcus
Jan 7, 2008, 3:48 AM
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notapplicable wrote: obe wrote: fuck this site im done with it.  Thanks for that. I had to work today and hadnt gotten a good laugh in.
I'm glad I'm not the only one that found those series of posts hilarious.
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curt
Jan 7, 2008, 4:20 AM
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obe wrote: fuck this site im done with it.
Hopefully. Still, I somehow doubt it.
Curt
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timd
Jan 7, 2008, 5:59 AM
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BYE TROLL!
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marc801
Jan 7, 2008, 1:55 PM
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obe wrote: ...i know this isnt a problem i think that the "future generation" can send.
Glad to know that somehow you have the ability to see the future so clearly. This is exactly what was said 30 years ago about what are now "merely" 5.13's.
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happiegrrrl
Jan 7, 2008, 2:18 PM
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Interestingly....I was wandering through the site looking for something just before, and happen-chanced into a thread that relates to this topic. Here's the link:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1574368
In that thread, JT512 takes the stance that "most" routes worldwide have been chipped. News to me. The thread didn't go on for long, but it's an interesting premise - most routes having been chipped/altered....
Of course, there's picking lichen, snaking dirt out of cracks and brushing dirt mounds with beautiful patches of moss that, in doing so, uncover fantastic hold below(often the case, in my extremely limited searching, and I assume that the mounds "grew" there in the first place because there was a nice little bit of something to hold onto).
And then - there's chipping. Or filing, or comfortizing.
I know there are some areas where people smooth down holds so they don't suffer, but It surprises me to hear, from someone with as much experience as Jay, a statement of "most routes" having been altered. "Most routes" at 5.12 and above? Or most routes, regardless of the grade?
Anyway, I thought it was an interesting statement, and was surprised that such an inflammatory subject would burn down to nothing so quickly. And, I'm interested to hear from people who put up routes, at any grade, as to their opinions on the thing.
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dingus
Jan 7, 2008, 2:46 PM
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Happi, sport routes are sculpted. So its easy for sport climbers to assume ALL routes worldwide are sculpted too.
Older routes in Yosemite were pinned all to hell. Its very hard to climb an old trade route in the Valley without contantly using pinscars. Some of the classics wouldn't BE classics sans those scars.
And when cleaning a route initially, well, all sorts of blasphemies can occur. A quick and funny example - one of the valley's most prolific first ascentionists reportedly whacked the key bucket handhold on the Commitment roof with a hammer in an effort to dislodge it - feeling it rendered the route too easy!
The hold withstood both his and subsequent generations of gentle ministries. The anti-chip!
Nutcracker Suite, arguably the most famous Yosemite 5.8 - is nearly 100% climbed on pin scars - VERY IRONIC considering the FA went on NUTS.
So that's where this notion that most route are chipped arises. In some areas that just may in fact be the case. And quien sabe, jt may be right on the global scale too.
DMT
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coach_kyle
Jan 7, 2008, 4:36 PM
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Give the rock a sporting chance.
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jacksdefeat
Jan 7, 2008, 5:19 PM
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I'm pretty new'ish to climbing, only about 7 months now, so i'm still pretty comfortable with the fact that there is plenty of rock I can't get up on. And I think even the pros understand that some rock just isn't meant to climb. (Except Potter, maybe.)
Chipping to me is a lot like owning a sports car--you're compensating for something, and we all know what it is.
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bizarrodrinker
Jan 7, 2008, 6:08 PM
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It is definitely cool to chip an otherwise blank face. You might also take a hold or two from the gym so you can give the slopers a little bit of an edge. That way you can also ensure that the problem doesn't get weathered or wirebrushed in the future.
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