Logan - Hummingbird Ridge

I have recently been thinking about how I choose my alpine routes and realized that the history, reputation and commitment of the route are the most important factors.
I am talking about routes like North Face of the Eiger, Compressor route on Cerro Torre and Cassin Ridge on Denali.
The reason I’m asking this is that most of us (who are not professional) only have time for a certain amount of routes in our career, so I would like to pick out THE alpine classics route list with hard, committing but doable routes (no altitude snow slogs and no extreme free climbs). Apart from the mentioned routes these other routes come to mind:

-Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route
-Fitz Roy, Super Couloir
-Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrai route
-Cerro Standhart, Exocet
-Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angel
-Matterhorn, North Face
-Hunter, Moonflower Buttress
-Foraker, Infinite Spur
-Ama Dablam, West Face
-Cholatse, North Face
-Kwangde, North Face
-Nameless Tower, (any route)

What other routes would qualify for this list?
(Please don’t respond if you got nothing serious to contribute)

Denali Diamond
Grand Voyage
Walker Spur
Everest West Ridge
Emperor Face
North Face of Alberta

About Logan's Hummingbird as a "snow slog"..... What he asked for was history, commitment and reputation.

The hummingbird has beat the shit out of and turned back people like Mugs.....and killed people like Cheesmond and Catherine Freer. All of whom were far Manlier alpinists than the girly men frequenting this pseudo alpinist cyber-poofter-fest at RC.com. Snow slog, indeed. Go take a fast afternoon lap on it in your designer PJs if it's such a slog, DMT.

I know well enough the history of that ridge - it included a mile of SNOW SHOVELING.

NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism .

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!!

From an area standpoint...

NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism .

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!!

I live in Denmark, one of the flattest countries on earth.

I was actually hoping that it wouldn’t end in this kindergarten shit as it usually does, but anyway…
For the whole you-live-in-the-wrong-place discussion I can add that I live in Denmark,

Are you drunk or just naturally an ass?

Jesus Christ! Forget that I asked for route advice in here. I can only imagine what you sissies bitch like on an alpine climb... Do you even have an idea about how much is takes to try one of these routes? (Two dead partners and who knows how many close calls)
Let me specify the question: Any recommendations from ALPINE climbers, who actually do REAL alpine climbs? (Posers need not respond)

I have recently been thinking about how I choose my alpine routes and realized that the history, reputation and commitment of the route are the most important factors.
I am talking about routes like North Face of the Eiger, Compressor route on Cerro Torre and Cassin Ridge on Denali.
The reason I’m asking this is that most of us (who are not professional) only have time for a certain amount of routes in our career, so I would like to pick out THE alpine classics route list with hard, committing but doable routes (no altitude snow slogs and no extreme free climbs). Apart from the mentioned routes these other routes come to mind:

-Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route
-Fitz Roy, Super Couloir
-Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrai route
-Cerro Standhart, Exocet
-Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angel
-Matterhorn, North Face
-Hunter, Moonflower Buttress
-Foraker, Infinite Spur
-Ama Dablam, West Face
-Cholatse, North Face
-Kwangde, North Face
-Nameless Tower, (any route)

What other routes would qualify for this list?
(Please don’t respond if you got nothing serious to contribute)

I apologize to the rest of you for this, but taking shit from posers like Dingus and Valarc makes me pretty aggro.

No majid. Read the post again. I’ve got nothing against you. At least you have been in the mountains unlike the two fags above.

Are you drunk or just naturally an ass? I probably don't even need to remind you that you're total jerk, because you must hear that a lot, but thanks, I'll leave the slopes to you. I'm 26, so I've got plenty of time to tick every climb on this list.

I don' see anything dingus said was being an ass, graniteboy sure was though.
By the way, how big is yer penish?

You show me your I'll show you mine, Rose.
OH YEAH!

Don't do it, he's crazy he will, I swear.

I should be one to talk, my shit smells like roses, you know.

Hey magnus, I found robin williams making fun of the scots last night while I couldn't sleep.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_OmnP527Dw

I'm really, really sorry if I insulted you, Dingus....but I just couldn't help myself. Especially because elsewhere in here on the alpine thread yesterday, I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times, then damn near got lost on the way down once you finally DID get up the goddamned thing, because you were descending the south fork of Big pine creek...as if that were any kind of problem that would even slow down any real alpinist....... Hell, you even thanked me for giving you the beta on that "tough" descent.....

Given the fact that I regularly freesolo routes like that car to car in under 12 hrs, have been up denali a few times, including a solo of the west rib, damn near pulleld off a solo of Foraker, have been guiding on ice and snow and rock since 1978, etc etc, I found it sort of odd that you'd be pitting your "knowledge" of alpinism and what makes a classic big alpine route against mine.

But hell, my apologies anyway, DMT..... I'll steer clear of any and all threads you may happen to be mangling with your halfassed alpine "knowledge" or "wisdom" from now on, just to avoid getting in your face and making your face turn red with a mixture of anger, insecurity, and embarrassment. And as a consequence, young alpinists in here will not benefit from my 30 some odd years living and climbing and guiing in the sierras. Oh well. I like my mountains empty anyway.

Oh, and BTW, another route that oughta be put on the "list" would be that 5.9 route in antarctica that Mugs soloed about a year before his death......don't recall the name, but it was a fine looking line.

@ graniteboy: Fuck’em, they’re all posers anyway

It really disappoint me that the discussion degenerated into childish name calling, but what can you expect when there might only be a handful of serious alpinists using this website that primarily attracts gym and sofa climbers…

NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism .

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!!

I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times,

then damn near got lost on the way down once you finally DID get up the goddamned thing, because you were descending the south fork of Big pine creek...

Given the fact that I regularly

You're a damned liar.


Liar again. Show me the quote.


spray spray spray.

graniteboy you're a liar and I'll say it to your face.

DMT

You're a damned liar.

My 1st attempt on the Swiss Arete was terminated with a bloody nose. True.

My good friend Burl and I decided to 'to it in a day' to avoid all that carrying you're asking about. We leat the trailhead in the dark, but we just didn't make the kind of time on that 11 miles to the glacier we should have.

On the moraine just below the terminous of the glacier my nose started to bleed. It was noon!

We reached the L-Shaped snowfield at 2 PM for christsakes!

TWO PEE EM! And my nose was bleeding so badly it wouldn't stop. I had blod clots dripping down my throat. At 13 k very untasty!

So we threw in the towel.

And...

made a fateful decision to descend the SOUTH FORK instead of the NORTH fork. No trail down that way and very demanding. I was a walking deadman by the time we got back to the car.

On another trip up the North Fork we went heavy apurpose - going in to do the U Notch in good ice conditions in late Sept. So heavy were our packs it took us TWO DAYS to reach Sam Mack Meadow.

We had so much beer with us we couldn't drink it all.

So like we didn't succeed on that trip either? Again, we left Sam Mack in the dark. But as I'm sure you can attest its a LONG WAY from Sam Mack to the base of your favorite climb. After leading 2 pitches in the U-Notch, including (for me) a very good lead of the (that year) overhanging schrund, Burl announced he was 'going no higher.'

0 for 2... a heavy trip and a very light trip, two strong FAILS.

ARRRGGGGHHHHH!

Based upon his attack upon me for daring to suggest the Hummingbird Ridge was a snow slog (due to a MILE of snow shoveling by the FA team haha)...

Hey magnus, I found robin williams making fun of the scots last night while I couldn't sleep.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_OmnP527Dw

Has it even had a 3rd ascent yet? I remember that Dave (Nettle) did it awhile back...maybe in the early 90s....and damn near starved to death getting down off the thing.

Tradrenn, would it be too much to ask you stop posting since it seems you don't have much to add to this subject besides personal attacks?

Again, Tradrenn didn't make any personal attacks, merely point out that Dingus wasn't being the jerk he was made out to be. What the hell is up with you supposed alpinists acting like such giant vaginas?.

Twight. They read Twight.

DMT

How can a route with 2 or 3 known ascents be a world classic anyway?????

DMT

Twight. They read Twight.

You ignored my comments on Antarctica?
Lame. that place is fucking truck. No where I'd rather go.

The list is still missing Greenland and Antarctica (at least). Can someone give specific info?

The list is still missing Greenland and Antarctica (at least). Can someone give specific info?

They say the climbing was Himalaya scale with 3600m of height difference. They started light with no sleeping bags or tents and food for five days. On the lower part the Thuderbird couloir has sixty degrees on ice and on the upper part you'll have sections of UIAA 6 on rock. Doesn't sound like a "snow slog" to me (as dingus suggested).

Does nobody read what Dingus is saying? I might be wrong too, but I thought dingus said that there was a mile of snow shoveling. He didn't imply the entire route was snow shoveling, but that there was still a MILE of it

I was actually hoping that it wouldn’t end in this kindergarten shit as it usually does, but anyway…
For the whole you-live-in-the-wrong-place discussion I can add that I live in Denmark, one of the flattest countries on earth. But that should not kill anyone’s dream. If you got the right attitude and are willing to travel a lot there’s no problem.

I will try three of the routes on the original list next year (Matterhorn, Ama Dablam and Cholatse) and post trip reports here. Until then keep the routes coming. I’m interested in hearing about quality routes in Peru (ice, mixed or alpine big wall).

Cheers!

One more for the list:

-Siula Grande