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sungam
Sep 20, 2008, 9:47 AM
Post #51 of 84
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graniteboy wrote: NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism . HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!!
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adnix
Sep 25, 2008, 4:04 PM
Post #52 of 84
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These have been mentioned so far:
Europe:
-Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angle
-North Face of the Eiger,
-Matterhorn, North Face
-Peuterey Integrale
-Central Pillar of Freney
-Grandes Jorasses NF (Desmaison route or ?)
-Troll Wall (winter ascent, too dangerous in summer)
South America:
-Compressor route on Cerro Torre
-Fitz Roy, Super Couloir
-Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrai route
-Cerro Standhart, Exocet
-there are plenty of other routes in Patagonia, Towers of Paine etc...
-Taulliraju: Italian Route
-Huascaran Norte: Northeast Ridge
-Cayesh: West Face
North America:
-Cassin Ridge on Denali
-Hunter, Moonflower Buttress
-Foraker, Infinite Spur
-Hunter Southeast Spur (history and difficulty)
-Logan - Hummingbird Ridge
Himalayas:
-Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route
-Ama Dablam, West Face
-Cholatse, North Face
-Kwangde, North Face
-Nameless Tower, (any route)
-Spantik, Golden Pillar
-Latok-1 North ridge
(This post was edited by adnix on Sep 25, 2008, 4:06 PM)
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dingus
Sep 25, 2008, 4:12 PM
Post #53 of 84
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graniteboy wrote: I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times,
You're a damned liar.
In reply to: then damn near got lost on the way down once you finally DID get up the goddamned thing, because you were descending the south fork of Big pine creek...
Liar again. Show me the quote.
In reply to: Given the fact that I regularly
spray spray spray.
graniteboy you're a liar and I'll say it to your face.
DMT
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sungam
Sep 25, 2008, 4:52 PM
Post #54 of 84
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dingus wrote: graniteboy wrote: I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times, You're a damned liar. In reply to: then damn near got lost on the way down once you finally DID get up the goddamned thing, because you were descending the south fork of Big pine creek... Liar again. Show me the quote. In reply to: Given the fact that I regularly spray spray spray. graniteboy you're a liar and I'll say it to your face. DMT
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adnix
Sep 25, 2008, 7:29 PM
Post #55 of 84
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dingus wrote: graniteboy wrote: I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times, You're a damned liar.
He's probably referring to this post:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1970768#1970768
dingus wrote: My 1st attempt on the Swiss Arete was terminated with a bloody nose. True. My good friend Burl and I decided to 'to it in a day' to avoid all that carrying you're asking about. We leat the trailhead in the dark, but we just didn't make the kind of time on that 11 miles to the glacier we should have. On the moraine just below the terminous of the glacier my nose started to bleed. It was noon! We reached the L-Shaped snowfield at 2 PM for christsakes! TWO PEE EM! And my nose was bleeding so badly it wouldn't stop. I had blod clots dripping down my throat. At 13 k very untasty! So we threw in the towel. And... made a fateful decision to descend the SOUTH FORK instead of the NORTH fork. No trail down that way and very demanding. I was a walking deadman by the time we got back to the car. On another trip up the North Fork we went heavy apurpose - going in to do the U Notch in good ice conditions in late Sept. So heavy were our packs it took us TWO DAYS to reach Sam Mack Meadow. We had so much beer with us we couldn't drink it all. So like we didn't succeed on that trip either? Again, we left Sam Mack in the dark. But as I'm sure you can attest its a LONG WAY from Sam Mack to the base of your favorite climb. After leading 2 pitches in the U-Notch, including (for me) a very good lead of the (that year) overhanging schrund, Burl announced he was 'going no higher.' 0 for 2... a heavy trip and a very light trip, two strong FAILS. ARRRGGGGHHHHH! |
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dingus
Sep 25, 2008, 7:38 PM
Post #56 of 84
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adnix wrote: dingus wrote: graniteboy wrote: I was reading how you gleefully proclaimed your repeated failures on one of the easiest alpine rock routes in the Sierra (Swiss arete) several times,You're a damned liar. He's probably referring to this post: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1970768#1970768 Undoubtedly. So he either has reading comprehension issues or is a FUCKING LIAR. Based upon his attack upon me for daring to suggest the Hummingbird Ridge was a snow slog (due to a MILE of snow shoveling by the FA team haha)... I realized he's just another Mark Twight wannabe hardman sprayer bullshit lord FUCKING LIAR. How about you? DMT
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tradrenn
Sep 26, 2008, 9:22 AM
Post #58 of 84
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Hey, thanks for the link, I can't sleep tonight so I get to enjoy it.
Thanks again.
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tradrenn
Sep 26, 2008, 9:29 AM
Post #59 of 84
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Dude WTF is wrong with you ?
Grow a thicker skin.
BTW Dingus was nice to you. ( You should have been around when Dr.Kodos or Dirtineye was around )
You know, at least he is the man for admitting that it wasn't the best assent, didn't you ever epic on a route.
I dare you to post up !!!
Don't even bother answering "No" that only means you never tried hard enough.
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adnix
Sep 26, 2008, 12:10 PM
Post #60 of 84
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Tradrenn, would it be too much to ask you stop posting since it seems you don't have much to add to this subject besides personal attacks?
graniteboy wrote: Has it even had a 3rd ascent yet? I remember that Dave (Nettle) did it awhile back...maybe in the early 90s....and damn near starved to death getting down off the thing.
The third ascent of Hummingbird (2nd via the Thunderbird variation) was done in 2001 by two Swiss guys in 26 hours up and two days down!
They say the climbing was Himalaya scale with 3600m of height difference. They started light with no sleeping bags or tents and food for five days. On the lower part the Thuderbird couloir has sixty degrees on ice and on the upper part you'll have sections of UIAA 6 on rock. Doesn't sound like a "snow slog" to me (as dingus suggested).
Photos here:
http://alpen.sac-cas.ch/...04/ad_2001_04_02.pdf
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dingus
Sep 26, 2008, 3:25 PM
Post #61 of 84
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Hey adeptus dude, if you decide to go for Logan I wish you the best of adventures. I mean that. And good luck on the rest of your adventures too.
BTW, the story of the FA is well chronicled in Fifty Classic Climbs of N America, written in part by a member of the FA team.
I've only done 10 or 12 routes in that book (I'd have to check its been a while)... and Logan has never been on my list.
Maybe its the hardest snow slog in N America haha.
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Sep 26, 2008, 4:00 PM)
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Valarc
Sep 26, 2008, 4:29 PM
Post #62 of 84
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adnix wrote: Tradrenn, would it be too much to ask you stop posting since it seems you don't have much to add to this subject besides personal attacks?
Again, Tradrenn didn't make any personal attacks, merely point out that Dingus wasn't being the jerk he was made out to be. What the hell is up with you supposed alpinists acting like such giant vaginas? I thought alpine guys were supposed to be hardmen, but here you all are taking turns getting butthurt in an internet conversation because you don't like someone's tone. I think you all need to get a big bucket of Ben and Jerry's, sit around watching Oprah, and have a good cry.
EDIT: Maybe you need to go to the grocery store and buy yourself a bottle of this:
EDIT # 2: *I* have nothing to add to this conversation but personal attacks, so cry some more.
(This post was edited by Valarc on Sep 26, 2008, 4:36 PM)
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dingus
Sep 26, 2008, 4:44 PM
Post #63 of 84
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Valarc wrote: adnix wrote: Tradrenn, would it be too much to ask you stop posting since it seems you don't have much to add to this subject besides personal attacks? Again, Tradrenn didn't make any personal attacks, merely point out that Dingus wasn't being the jerk he was made out to be. What the hell is up with you supposed alpinists acting like such giant vaginas?.
Twight. They read Twight.
DMT
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sungam
Sep 26, 2008, 5:29 PM
Post #64 of 84
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dingus wrote: Valarc wrote: adnix wrote: Tradrenn, would it be too much to ask you stop posting since it seems you don't have much to add to this subject besides personal attacks? Again, Tradrenn didn't make any personal attacks, merely point out that Dingus wasn't being the jerk he was made out to be. What the hell is up with you supposed alpinists acting like such giant vaginas?. Twight. They read Twight. DMT
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dingus
Sep 26, 2008, 5:46 PM
Post #65 of 84
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How can a route with 2 or 3 known ascents be a world classic anyway?????
DMT
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skiclimb
Sep 26, 2008, 9:59 PM
Post #66 of 84
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dingus wrote: How can a route with 2 or 3 known ascents be a world classic anyway????? DMT
Dunno but there is Latok North ridge with NO ascents and I think it's a fantastic prize for someone out there.
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adnix
Sep 27, 2008, 7:25 AM
Post #67 of 84
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dingus wrote: Twight. They read Twight.
I read Al Alvarez, Henry Barber, Walter Bonatti, Joe Brown, Yvon Chouinard, Gregory Crouch, Rene Desmaison, Anderl Heckmaier, Alan Kearney, Erhard Loretan, Tom Patey, Gaston Rebuffat, Robin Smith and Simon Yates. I've browsed throught the Twight book, too, but never read it.
Some more routes:
-Ogre, South Pillar
-Uli Biaho Tower, East Face
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adnix
Sep 28, 2008, 10:51 AM
Post #69 of 84
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Europe:
-Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angle
-North Face of the Eiger,
-Matterhorn, North Face
-Peuterey Integrale
-Central Pillar of Freney
-Grandes Jorasses NF (Desmaison route or ?)
-Troll Wall (winter ascent, too dangerous in summer)
Patagonia:
-Poincenot, Whillans route
-Mermoz, Red Pillar
-Fitz Roy, Franco Argentine
-Fitz Roy, Super Couloir
-Fitz Roy, Casarotto Pillar
-Fitz Roy, Royal Flush
-Cerro Torre, Compressor route
-Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrari route
-Torre Egger, Titanic
-Cerro Standhart, Exocet
-Central Tower of Paine: Bonington Whillans
-Central Tower of Paine: Riders on the Storm
-South Tower: North Ridge
-North Tower: Monzino Route
Peru:
-Taulliraju: Italian Route
-Huascaran Norte: Northeast Ridge
-Cayesh: West Face
North America:
-Cassin Ridge on Denali
-Hunter, Moonflower Buttress
-Foraker, Infinite Spur
-Hunter, Southeast Spur (history and difficulty)
-Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
-Barrill: Cobra Pillar
Kichatna Spires ?
Himalayas:
-Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route
-Ama Dablam, West Face
-Cholatse, North Face
-Kwangde, North Face
-Nameless Tower, (any route)
-Spantik, Golden Pillar
-Latok-1 North ridge
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sungam
Sep 28, 2008, 3:05 PM
Post #70 of 84
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You ignored my comments on Antarctica?
Lame. that place is fucking truck. No where I'd rather go.
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adnix
Sep 29, 2008, 4:34 AM
Post #71 of 84
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sungam wrote: You ignored my comments on Antarctica? Lame. that place is fucking truck. No where I'd rather go.
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qwert
Sep 29, 2008, 9:40 AM
Post #72 of 84
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adnix wrote: sungam wrote: You ignored my comments on Antarctica? Lame. that place is fucking truck. No where I'd rather go. The list is still missing Greenland and Antarctica (at least). Can someone give specific info? 
On a serious note: There is not much stuff in Antarctica, mostly because it is very very expensive to get there, and there is virtually no infrastructure available. also i would guess a lot of very nice mountains there have simply never been seen by any human.
The french magzine vertical (also available in english or german) had a story about antarctica, but i dont have it here, and the website sucks, but the images from the wall where fantastic.
Even if you do "easy" stuff, antartica is very serious, simply because of the fact that if anything happens to you, you cant get help, and the next humans are most likely a few thousand kilometers away.
But the bragging factor is of course imense!
Greenland has much more information available, and it seems like it (or at least the south) has become somewhat of a mainstream destination. given the fact that the OP is danish, this should be one of the primary goals.
And since where talking artic now, how about spitsbergen / svalbard ?
Not much routes, but the location of the islands themselves will get you a lot of atention.
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=35654
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=35762
Apart from the fact that it can get really cold here, you also have to take polar bears into the equation, but if youre fit enough for such a trip, i would guess its worth it. Havent been to Atomfjella (yet, i hope?), but the areas "close" to it. Its really an amazing island.
qwert
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wallwombat
Sep 29, 2008, 11:53 AM
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The West Face of Gasherbrum IV.
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sungam
Sep 29, 2008, 12:45 PM
Post #74 of 84
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adnix wrote: sungam wrote: You ignored my comments on Antarctica? Lame. that place is fucking truck. No where I'd rather go. The list is still missing Greenland and Antarctica (at least). Can someone give specific info?
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