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salamanizer
Nov 5, 2008, 1:39 AM
Post #26 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: I do, but that can't always be done, I commonly find lines that you can't protect or TR, that would actually make great routes. Only thing stopping me is people who think trad climbing is the only way we should be able to climb. I am for equal access, if we have the technology to make climbing safer and more accessible to people then why not use it. Just because some dinosaur had to run his pieces out 20 feet doesn't mean I should have to. All the time on this forum people want to go and talk about "learn this/that from this/that accident/death" Why not take measures to make this sport as safe as possible?
It's obvious you have no clue. Safer and more accessible? Sorry, but that's not what I climb for. So who the hell are you to tell me how I should put up routes and climb? You should think about this issue a little more. Maybe read a book...get a clue etc...
The only elitist here is you.
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angry
Nov 5, 2008, 1:40 AM
Post #27 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: I commonly find lines that you can't protect or TR, that would actually make great routes. Only thing stopping me is people who think trad climbing is the only way we should be able to climb. I am for equal access, if we have the technology to make climbing safer and more accessible to people then why not use it. Just because some dinosaur had to run his pieces out 20 feet doesn't mean I should have to. All the time on this forum people want to go and talk about "learn this/that from this/that accident/death" Why not take measures to make this sport as safe as possible?
Here's the thing troll, peruse the accidents. All of them, gym, sport, bouldering, trad, mountains, etc.
Now where do the most accidents happen? At the inaccessible super hard trad routes? Or on the easily accessible sport and gym routes?
Just because some dinosaur led a route without placing bolts is actually no excuse for you to climb the route at all. You don't have to climb that route, not today, not tomorrow, never. In fact, you don't have to climb anything. Nobody does either, so don't act like it's a big deal that you're excluded too.
I'd like to run a 4:00 mile. Whose responsibility is it to make sure I can?
I could rant on you and rip you apart with what you've said, but it's not necessary. Ignorants like you bring this argument up fairly frequently. Once they get the experience to act on their ideas, they've gained the experience and respect not to. You'll be no different. If it won't stop eating at you, you'll quit climbing.
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HappinessIsWinning
Nov 5, 2008, 1:45 AM
Post #28 of 485
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salamanizer wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: I do, but that can't always be done, I commonly find lines that you can't protect or TR, that would actually make great routes. Only thing stopping me is people who think trad climbing is the only way we should be able to climb. I am for equal access, if we have the technology to make climbing safer and more accessible to people then why not use it. Just because some dinosaur had to run his pieces out 20 feet doesn't mean I should have to. All the time on this forum people want to go and talk about "learn this/that from this/that accident/death" Why not take measures to make this sport as safe as possible? It's obvious you have no clue. Safer and more accessible? Sorry, but that's not what I climb for. So who the hell are you to tell me how I should put up routes and climb? You should think about this issue a little more. Maybe read a book...get a clue etc... The only elitist here is you.
BS, that's what you say until one of your friends dies, then you will be on here telling everyone to learn from this and climb safer...
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HappinessIsWinning
Nov 5, 2008, 1:49 AM
Post #29 of 485
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Reading those things is what made me think this...
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deltav
Nov 5, 2008, 2:00 AM
Post #31 of 485
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STFU NOOB!!!
Just because you can't sac up enough to climb trad gives you no right to hate on those of us who do.
To climb crack is to climb trad...GET OVER IT
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salamanizer
Nov 5, 2008, 2:02 AM
Post #32 of 485
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: salamanizer wrote: HappinessIsWinning wrote: I do, but that can't always be done, I commonly find lines that you can't protect or TR, that would actually make great routes. Only thing stopping me is people who think trad climbing is the only way we should be able to climb. I am for equal access, if we have the technology to make climbing safer and more accessible to people then why not use it. Just because some dinosaur had to run his pieces out 20 feet doesn't mean I should have to. All the time on this forum people want to go and talk about "learn this/that from this/that accident/death" Why not take measures to make this sport as safe as possible? It's obvious you have no clue. Safer and more accessible? Sorry, but that's not what I climb for. So who the hell are you to tell me how I should put up routes and climb? You should think about this issue a little more. Maybe read a book...get a clue etc... The only elitist here is you. BS, that's what you say until one of your friends dies, then you will be on here telling everyone to learn from this and climb safer...
You think bolts = safety? You're an ignorant fool.
Safety has nothing to do with how you protect a route. I hope everyone stays safe climbing, and learns from their mistakes. However, if you think the method of protection you use, or the R/X rateing of a route has anything to do with safety, you're a blind, ignorant fool.
And who are you to assume I've never lost a friend climbing?
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superory
Nov 5, 2008, 2:06 AM
Post #33 of 485
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you could always get a job at REI. then you wouldnt have to know what your talking about, which you clearly have down, and then your could get a discount on gear.
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petsfed
Nov 5, 2008, 2:11 AM
Post #34 of 485
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I've got about half the rack angry does. In the last 7 years, I've never made more than $15000 in a single year. I've made it to the desert on average twice a year every single year since I really started climbing 7 years ago.
I've never found the "but I'm a dirtbag!" excuse to hold much water with me. I'm a dirtbag too. If you can't afford to climb, smoke less weed, drink less beer, get a cheaper apartment, get a better job. You are not entitled to anything in climbing. Want to climb 5.12? Then you'd better fuckin' train. Want to climb cracks? Then acquire a fuckin' rack. It is as simple as that. If you are not willing to put in the work for something, then you DO NOT deserve to have it.
This troll is a major buzzkill.
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coolcat83
Nov 5, 2008, 2:12 AM
Post #35 of 485
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how many cracks are you going to bolt? bolts/hangers are not free. save the money and buy some trad gear, in the long run you'll be able to do more, cheaper, and imo more enjoyably
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irregularpanda
Nov 5, 2008, 2:19 AM
Post #37 of 485
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petsfed wrote: I've never found the "but I'm a dirtbag!" excuse to hold much water with me. I'm a dirtbag too. If you can't afford to climb, smoke less weed, drink less beer, get a cheaper apartment, get a better job. You are not entitled to anything in climbing. Want to climb 5.12? Then you'd better fuckin' train. Want to climb cracks? Then acquire a fuckin' rack. It is as simple as that. If you are not willing to put in the work for something, then you DO NOT deserve to have it. This troll is a major buzzkill.
Yep. I totally agree. The thing is "happiness is a slef entitled twat" you need to never bolt cracks, unless it's on your own fucking property. If you do bolt cracks, I'll find out where you live, fly out there, and duct tape you to the flagpole, naked.
But if you want to learn that climbing isn't about instant satisfaction, but about EARNING something, then borrow a goddamn rack for 3 years, and then tell us you want to bolt cracks. I dare you.
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jaablink
Nov 5, 2008, 2:20 AM
Post #38 of 485
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Sport climbing is fun, some rock can only be protected by bolts .Weather the rock is soft , or does not support other pro.,or in some cases like the limestone tufas on Kalymnos the force generated by a cam would damage the soft limestone or even break off large pieces. There 90% of the climbing started at 6a to keep things intresting. But I did not fear to push limits on 8+ Because I was protected by bolts.
It does take the adventure out of it…. No rout finding skilz needed to clip a bolt….climbing in the Gunks I study hard the line, I look for possible placements before I come to them, I have an idea of what goes ware and where I will go if I do not make that point , I know if I fuck up I could put my partner in danger and or get hurt, or worse. Did the carbs & yellow wall last week . Tears for fears on the list for Sunday. There is something to be said about protecting yourself and your partner on a wall where it does matter.
I know the gear is expensive and it sucks. If you lived around here I would be more than willing to share a line with you.
I also bolt on contract, (only non-protect able faces) hardware and equipments needed to bolt is more expensive than buying a full rack. (if its done correct) lets say a 30m rout, 10 bolts and anchor , 12 bolts + chain, bits , (and assuming you have a drill and prep time)… about $200.…. You can buy a sweet starter rack for that.. At min. you can buy the gear you need to protect that climb…
And if I see a trad protect able climb bolted in my neck of the woods. I tear them the fuck out! Dont be bolting cracks.....
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salamanizer
Nov 5, 2008, 2:23 AM
Post #39 of 485
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moose_droppings wrote: [image]http://th368.photobucket.com/albums/oo130/ninspgy/th_troll-web1asd.jpg[/image]
I know he's trolling, I just feel like arguing.
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happiegrrrl
Nov 5, 2008, 2:25 AM
Post #40 of 485
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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I don't think people are feeding a troll so much as having a game of darts.
Anyway, if the OP thinks he needs gear and can't afford it, he should get it the only other honorable way there is - booty it off routes other people who got in over their heads bailed off of.
There's other ways to get gear inexpensively(without stealing it, of course) too. I don't know - to me I always have to wonder if people who complain gear's too expensive aren't seeing a very high Cost Per Use Ratio....That is, they constantly have to bail off routes that they got in over their heads on, and can't figure out a way to get out clean. I mean - If I left $60 worth of gear on routes every time I went out - I'd think it cost too much too!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 5, 2008, 2:27 AM
Post #41 of 485
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HappinessIs[b]Whining[/b] wrote: WTF, why you want to impose your views on someone else? I don't ask you to climb sport. Why the fuck do you think you should be telling others what to do. Seems to me that you suck at climbing faces so you find no use for bolts, which is fine for you, but keep it that way,... to yourself. BTW, I hope more people bolt cracks, you rich fucks can fuck yourselves with all your cams, most of us, especially given the times, can't afford a full trad rack. I would love to be able to climb cracks that were bolted, but you fucks have to make it just one more thing that is elitist, I hope BD fucks up and kills you all with a hellacious defect or some shit.  One more thing, I am trying to get a trad rack together, the point is that there is no reason everyone should have to get a full rack in order to climb crack.
Fixed your name for you.
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joeforte
Nov 5, 2008, 2:29 AM
Post #42 of 485
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This troll wants us to spend our time and money bolting a crack so that he can climb it the way he wants to and never has to grow any balls.
What a little pansy.
If everything was bolted, I would quit climbing... It would take all the adventure and excitement out of it.
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angry
Nov 5, 2008, 2:32 AM
Post #43 of 485
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lena_chita wrote: HappinessIs[b]Whining[/b] wrote: WTF, why you want to impose your views on someone else? I don't ask you to climb sport. Why the fuck do you think you should be telling others what to do. Seems to me that you suck at climbing faces so you find no use for bolts, which is fine for you, but keep it that way,... to yourself. BTW, I hope more people bolt cracks, you rich fucks can fuck yourselves with all your cams, most of us, especially given the times, can't afford a full trad rack. I would love to be able to climb cracks that were bolted, but you fucks have to make it just one more thing that is elitist, I hope BD fucks up and kills you all with a hellacious defect or some shit. One more thing, I am trying to get a trad rack together, the point is that there is no reason everyone should have to get a full rack in order to climb crack. Fixed your name for you.
Zinger ALERT!!!!
BTW, fuck that sport stuff. The only hard thing I climbed in your damn state was a crack.
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jaablink
Nov 5, 2008, 2:32 AM
Post #45 of 485
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that’s right…. No adventure, no fun… booooo
how you doing there Mr.Anderson
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joeforte
Nov 5, 2008, 2:50 AM
Post #46 of 485
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What's up crazy john? Still fighting off Wilkes-Barre noob's at the dam? I'm been climbing up in Scranton a bunch...
Oh shit, we're supposed to be flogging this troll.....
You either need a big rack, or big balls. I've been lucky enough to have the latter, so I actually prefer small racks...
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camhead
Nov 5, 2008, 2:58 AM
Post #47 of 485
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I don't have a problem with bolts on corner cracks, since it is dangerous to place gear from a layback. However, bolts in splitters is fucking wrong.
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jaablink
Nov 5, 2008, 3:00 AM
Post #48 of 485
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My oldman passed away last month. I took off to Greece with the girl for some tufa time…and climbed the hardest I ever have…
No more problems here, the n00bs know I am crazy… they keep a distance. I band some of them from the local crags (hahaha). Maybe you will start to see them up there….
oh ya .,/ Sack up,,, sporty….get a rack
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deltav
Nov 5, 2008, 3:01 AM
Post #50 of 485
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
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HappinessIsWinning wrote: Just because some dinosaur had to run his pieces out 20 feet doesn't mean I should have to. All the time on this forum people want to go and talk about "learn this/that from this/that accident/death" Why not take measures to make this sport as safe as possible?
To keep stupid fucks like you away
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might not be dangerous at all if you stay within your zone. Safety as a whole is not about having more protection in. 
