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shoo
Aug 5, 2009, 2:40 PM
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I am constantly shocked at what some climbing manufacturers consider "good ideas." These are just baffling.
1. ATC-Sport - Black Diamond
There are two slots on almost all tube-type belay devices for a reason. And no, it's not so you can belay two people at once.
2. Bionic 8 - Mammut
You use a fig. 8 because it offers smooth rappels. They suck at pretty much everything else. So you go out and make a device that's an i-beam version, eliminating the smooth bar stock, and likely a lot of the smoothness of the rappel. And seriously, do you really need to be counting the ounces for a sport rappelling?!? Better yet, you are seriously sport rappelling!?!
3. Pyramid - Trango
This is a good idea like Coke-II and communism. Might sound cool on paper, but when you actually try it, it sucks. If you've ever tried to use one of these, I'm sorry. I'd rather hip belay.
4. Mad Lock - Mad Rock
There was a reason Petzl discontinued this design. Though some may appreciate the versatility of a belay device that can magically turn into a knife, I think I'll stay away. And what's with this removable pin crap? I say hell no to the frankenreverso.
Anyone have any others?
Edited to add Mad Lock to the list.
(This post was edited by shoo on Aug 13, 2009, 5:34 PM)
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robdotcalm
Aug 5, 2009, 2:52 PM
Post #2 of 104
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Huh? I've been using the Trango Pyramid since it came out years ago and have not experienced any difficulties. When I started climbing 40 years ago, I belayed around the waist. No way am I going back to that. Seriously, what do you find wrong the Pyramid/
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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shoo
Aug 5, 2009, 3:13 PM
Post #3 of 104
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Incredibly jerky, especially on fuzzy ropes. Locks up just fine when you want it too, but also locks up pretty well when you don't want it to. Compared with pretty much everything else out there that I've used (and I've used a lot of different devices), it it awful.
Hell, I once used a rappel ring as a sticht plate once and had better results. Note: don't do that. It's an incredibly bad idea. It was on TR and I had a backup belay.
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johnwesely
Aug 5, 2009, 3:18 PM
Post #4 of 104
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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I love my pyramid.
The worst belay device is the Trango Jaws. It locks up like nobodies business.
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taydude
Aug 5, 2009, 3:32 PM
Post #5 of 104
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Registered: May 25, 2006
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I knew a guy that had a pyramid when I was fairly new. He didn't seem to have any problems. He loved how thick it was and that it apparently didn't get sharp edges as fast as other belay devices. He was also really pumped on the "cooling ridges". Now that i'm more experienced I still don't know if he knew wtf he was talking about. I've never had any complaints with a belay device being too hot but I suppose if you have wimpy hands the pyramid would cool down faster than other devices.
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chadnsc
Aug 5, 2009, 3:37 PM
Post #6 of 104
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shoo wrote: Incredibly jerky, especially on fuzzy ropes. Locks up just fine when you want it too, but also locks up pretty well when you don't want it to. Compared with pretty much everything else out there that I've used (and I've used a lot of different devices), it it awful. Hell, I once used a rappel ring as a sticht plate once and had better results. Note: don't do that. It's an incredibly bad idea. It was on TR and I had a backup belay.
I used a Pyramid device for years and never had any issues with it while belaying or rappelling.
I think you just didn't have the ability to use it. 
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acorneau
Aug 5, 2009, 3:46 PM
Post #7 of 104
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FTW!
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healyje
Aug 5, 2009, 3:58 PM
Post #8 of 104
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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The worst modern belay device? All those devices are bomb - the weak link in the belaying is the same as it ever was, the operator.
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sspssp
Aug 5, 2009, 4:13 PM
Post #9 of 104
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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johnwesely wrote: I love my pyramid. The worst belay device is the Trango Jaws. It locks up like nobodies business.
Well it goes to show why there are so many belay devices on the market. I like the Jaws for belaying with skinnier ropes. Anymore, I use it mostly for raps (since I will take a Cinch even on multi-pitch). I like the fact that it will mostly lock off just from the weight of the rope. Makes dealing with tangles on the way down easier. But I thought it worked great for twin and half ropes (back when I climbed on doubles).
(This post was edited by sspssp on Aug 5, 2009, 4:14 PM)
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swaghole
Aug 5, 2009, 4:16 PM
Post #10 of 104
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Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 371
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Wild Country VC Pro. Worst ever modern belay device. I bought while waiting for the reverso 3 to be available (and I'm a gear whore). I thought it would work well since it looked like the BD ATC XP and it was cheaper. I returned it to the store the next day.
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qwert
Aug 5, 2009, 4:33 PM
Post #11 of 104
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394
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swaghole wrote: Wild Country VC Pro. Worst ever modern belay device. I bought while waiting for the reverso 3 to be available (and I'm a gear whore). I thought it would work well since it looked like the BD ATC XP and it was cheaper. I returned it to the store the next day.
Looks like just another tuber.
cant be too much wrong with that.
or can it?
qwert
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swaghole
Aug 5, 2009, 4:42 PM
Post #12 of 104
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qwert wrote: swaghole wrote: Wild Country VC Pro. Worst ever modern belay device. I bought while waiting for the reverso 3 to be available (and I'm a gear whore). I thought it would work well since it looked like the BD ATC XP and it was cheaper. I returned it to the store the next day. Why? Looks like just another tuber. cant be too much wrong with that. or can it? qwert
That's what I thought when I bought it. I had a hard time lowering my wife on a 10.5mm rope using the VC Pro on the low friction side. Even a new 10.2 was extremely jerky. Forget about rapelling on a 10.5. I weigh 180lbs and could barely lower myself using the low-friction mode. A fellow climber also had the same problems and returned the device...
I didn't try the VC Pro on a skinny rope but the device should have handled a 10.2 and 10.5 rope without binding. The BD ATC XP handles much better and offers the high-friction mode. It cost a few dollars more but it's well worth it.
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Skidemon27
Aug 5, 2009, 5:16 PM
Post #13 of 104
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dudue i completely agree worst device ever!!! i had onelol same orange and all and it would feed ropes for nothing, and the teeth and dam useless on it, i even tried using the other side (no teeth side) and no better either....and just for kickers, i had on my biner, and some how it fell off the biner and only fell 4 feet maybe 5 feet tops to the ground, didnt hit any rock or anything just dirt and the steel cable broke off!!! no joke, no noob mistake, just snapped off....i was stunned,, so that bitch went right back to the store!! and let me also point out the fact the the belay device was only 4 hours old!!!!
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bigjonnyc
Aug 5, 2009, 5:49 PM
Post #14 of 104
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Registered: Dec 17, 2004
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Skidemon27 wrote: ...and let me also point out the fact the the belay device was only 4 hours old!!!!
I truly doubt that the device was manufactured only 4 hours prior to your using it.
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climbingaggie03
Aug 5, 2009, 5:56 PM
Post #15 of 104
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taydude wrote: I knew a guy that had a pyramid when I was fairly new. He didn't seem to have any problems. He loved how thick it was and that it apparently didn't get sharp edges as fast as other belay devices. He was also really pumped on the "cooling ridges". Now that i'm more experienced I still don't know if he knew wtf he was talking about. I've never had any complaints with a belay device being too hot but I suppose if you have wimpy hands the pyramid would cool down faster than other devices.
Maybe I just have wimpy hands, but I've definitely had my belay device get too hot to handle (for a short time) usually when simul rapping on skinny ropes for multiple raps, I don't know if "cooling ridges" would help with that, but things can and do heat up.
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mtnkid85
Aug 5, 2009, 6:19 PM
Post #16 of 104
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Registered: Dec 18, 2005
Posts: 221
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You guys are a bunch of winers! I used the Pyramid for several years it was a fine belay device. The Jaws was my fav device until I started using the autoblocking rigs. The deep Vs are the reason I like it, wonderful for double ropes!
Ill maybe give the mammut 8 to ya though, just doesnt seem like theres is much of a market of an "improved" fig 8.
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suprasoup
Aug 5, 2009, 6:21 PM
Post #17 of 104
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Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309
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Weird. I love my Trango Jaws, had it for eight years now. Like the fact that I can use it in high friction side or low friction. Gives smooth rappels and catches falls effortlessly, large ropes or small.
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johnwesely
Aug 5, 2009, 8:10 PM
Post #18 of 104
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suprasoup wrote: Weird. I love my Trango Jaws, had it for eight years now. Like the fact that I can use it in high friction side or low friction. Gives smooth rappels and catches falls effortlessly, large ropes or small.
To be fair to Trango. The only ropes I have used the Jaws on are the fat gym ropes at the gym I work at.
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suprasoup
Aug 5, 2009, 8:46 PM
Post #19 of 104
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Gym Ropes. (shudder)
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RockLimbaugh
Aug 5, 2009, 9:15 PM
Post #20 of 104
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Registered: Jul 3, 2009
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Or maybe it's just the users. Hard to tell which sometimes.
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vegastradguy
Aug 5, 2009, 9:57 PM
Post #22 of 104
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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interestingly, while the BD ATC Sport is a very low seller in the US, its one of the best sellers in Europe- and its not the only single slot device out there- the Edelrid Jewel is another one (which i actually really like for cragging, after playing with one for a weekend after the OR show!)- neither sell well in the US, but in Europe they're fairly common because folks rarely rappel over there.
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johnwesely
Aug 5, 2009, 10:22 PM
Post #23 of 104
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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vegastradguy wrote: interestingly, while the BD ATC Sport is a very low seller in the US, its one of the best sellers in Europe- and its not the only single slot device out there- the Edelrid Jewel is another one (which i actually really like for cragging, after playing with one for a weekend after the OR show!)- neither sell well in the US, but in Europe they're fairly common because folks rarely rappel over there.
You have just taken the joy out of making fun of it.
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taydude
Aug 5, 2009, 10:27 PM
Post #24 of 104
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Registered: May 25, 2006
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the jewel is actually stainless steel right? That should help reduce the black hands crap on your rope. Seems like a good idea.
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I_do
Aug 6, 2009, 1:09 AM
Post #25 of 104
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vegastradguy wrote: interestingly, while the BD ATC Sport is a very low seller in the US, its one of the best sellers in Europe- and its not the only single slot device out there- the Edelrid Jewel is another one (which i actually really like for cragging, after playing with one for a weekend after the OR show!)- neither sell well in the US, but in Europe they're fairly common because folks rarely rappel over there.
Dude, how much time have you spent in Europe? I have never seen either of those devices being used by anyone...
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