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jakedatc
Jul 29, 2009, 4:21 AM
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Cool!. Right now it looks like my next trip could be 7th-9th but after that who knows. we shall have to figure it out.
I gotta find me some slab shoes.. my friend Lee just put up a .12a/b techy slab thing i'd like to give a shot at. my Miura's are pretty beat up so i might try something new.
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losbill
Jul 29, 2009, 1:15 PM
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Oops! Amongst other things my eyesight is going, missed Cuddlefish on the list.
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cracklover
Jul 29, 2009, 7:59 PM
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AntinJ wrote: I guess it came down to creating a list that was attainable, but challenging.
I see. In that case, if leading those seems unattainable, your list makes perfect sense. I don't think either Jane or Cro Mag are orders of magnitude harder than Barndoor, though. All are solid at the grade, and while none require long stretches of crack technique, they all will feel harder than the grade if you're not proficient at jamming.
In reply to: We have already ticked most of the routes that need to be lead, but some of the TR’s remain a stretch. Considering I have spent far too little time at Crow Hill, guess it came down to my perception of the routes when I first tried them, which was last summer after I had been climbing for only a very short while ( a few weeks)…and Jane kicked my ass. I’ve TR’d Outside Corner so many times; it wasn’t as much how protectable it was, as knowing the sequence – which I’m sure you can relate to.
Absolutely. My point was simply that if you're planning on toproping those two climbs, then getting a clean onsight lead is obviously not important to you. As such, I wanted to make clear that both are very protectable, so falls could be safe if you decided that working them was something you wanted to do. The only caveat is that on Cro Mag you need to be able to do a V2 highball problem to reach the first good gear. If that's not in the cards, then toproping them is really your best choice.
In reply to: The list probably needs some revamping. Maybe I’ll sack-up and give the CH Classics an old fashion attempt. Thanks for the feedback,
Didn't mean to imply that TRing them wasn't a cool thing to do, or that you should change your list. Was just looking to share some beta and to understand why your list looked like it did.
Cheers!
GO
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jakedatc
Jul 29, 2009, 8:43 PM
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cracklover wrote: jakedatc wrote: I gotta find me some slab shoes.. Who are you, what have you done with Jake, and how did you get the password to his rc.com account? GO
my slab shoes will be somewhat different than the usual suspects.. I'd love to find me a pair of Sportiva Venoms
right now my slab shoes are my testarossas since the muiras have a hole. Though i'm tempted to try out some of the Stealth Paint and see how that does for rand fixing.
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AntinJ
Jul 29, 2009, 10:45 PM
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Gabe -
All great advice...had some fun at CH today before the rain hit and Cro-Mag does look much more protectable than I first remembered, however both CM and Jane have slightly intimidating starts, as you pointed out -
Also - great point about Barndoor vs 'Mag and Jane, I think it was a group consensus to categorize them the way they are.
Thanks again for the feedback, i'll keep plugging away at the list and see what transpires.
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wonderwoman
Aug 2, 2009, 8:39 PM
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On our way back from da gunks early due to rain! But what a beautiful day of climbing!
I climbed Red Cabbage (1 hang - felt reachy on itty bitty gear), onsighted Classy, and swung lead with Josh on Black Out. Josh then onsighted Matinee but I popped off the traverse and took a mighty swing. I could not imagine being on the sharp end of that polished traverse! And I even like traverses!
At least the rain gave me an excuse to finally visit the New Paltz farmer's market. I scored me some mozarella & goat cheese, peanut butter goat cheese fudge (which was promptly inhaled by Josh), garlic scapes, & freshly baked bagels. Highly recommend checking it out if ever you are rained out on a Sunday. Right next to rock & snow.
So, let's hear what all the rest of you folks did! I hope you got dry rock and happy sends!
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ratherbe
Aug 2, 2009, 9:32 PM
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A perfect forecast took us to Cannon to join the conga line up Moby Grape. But then the evil Epic Monster struck and forced a retreat from the top of the second pitch. We'll be back, just you watch Monster!
Reppy's was amazing and scary and fabulous! I love the feeling of hand and foot jams that feel so secure. I didn't so much love the foot jam that didn't hold and almost sent me flying, until a desperate hand jam caught me.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 2, 2009, 10:00 PM
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[quote "edge"][quote] That [i]is[/i] a bummer, although I never climbed there or wanted to. But I know how it feels. I'm still mourning the loss of Stonehouse Pond.[/quote]
Aaaah, Stonehouse. I only climbed there a handful of times, but it was a very nice and unique spot to have around.[/quote]
Yeah, post revival from a while ago. I know, but...
So Jen and I were shownaround Stonehouse Pond today by a local. He's not a climber, just someone I know who lives near there. Is the climbing closed?
There is a sign there, but there was nothing mentioning climbing restrictions (or access). There's no swimming. Too bad for that.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 2, 2009, 10:01 PM
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^^ just read that it is on private land.
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cracklover
Aug 3, 2009, 3:33 PM
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ratherbe wrote: A perfect forecast took us to Cannon to join the conga line up Moby Grape. But then the evil Epic Monster struck and forced a retreat from the top of the second pitch.
Hmm... an epic on P2. Try though I might to imagine the cause, I find I cannot trust my imaginings to shed any light on what really happened.
It was a lovely weekend here in Denver, but no climbing happened, aside from running laps on the climb I like to call "Going up two flights of stairs, down two flights of stairs, with a mantle finish into the back of the moving truck". I upped the difficulty level by by doing the climb weighted (repeatedly, repeatedly, repeatedly...).
GO
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ratherbe
Aug 3, 2009, 9:55 PM
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cracklover wrote: ratherbe wrote: A perfect forecast took us to Cannon to join the conga line up Moby Grape. But then the evil Epic Monster struck and forced a retreat from the top of the second pitch. Hmm... an epic on P2. Try though I might to imagine the cause, I find I cannot trust my imaginings to shed any light on what really happened. GO
That's 'cus P2 was fine. The problem came from the triangle roof spitting Greg out and causing a sprained ankle. We rapped from the top of p2 after some helpful climbers behind us cleaned the gear as they carried on up.
Too bad you didn't get to climb, but congrats on the new house!
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cracklover
Aug 4, 2009, 4:35 PM
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ratherbe wrote: cracklover wrote: ratherbe wrote: A perfect forecast took us to Cannon to join the conga line up Moby Grape. But then the evil Epic Monster struck and forced a retreat from the top of the second pitch. Hmm... an epic on P2. Try though I might to imagine the cause, I find I cannot trust my imaginings to shed any light on what really happened. GO That's 'cus P2 was fine. The problem came from the triangle roof spitting Greg out and causing a sprained ankle. We rapped from the top of p2 after some helpful climbers behind us cleaned the gear as they carried on up.
Oh, that's a bummer. Sorry Greg!
In reply to: Too bad you didn't get to climb, but congrats on the new house!
Thanks!
GO
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fresh
Aug 4, 2009, 6:18 PM
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was this on Saturday that the sprained ankle happened? sorry to hear that, I was probably ahead of you on the conga line that day. the slab under the roof was mighty wet.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 4, 2009, 7:50 PM
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fresh wrote: was this on Saturday that the sprained ankle happened? sorry to hear that, I was probably ahead of you on the conga line that day. the slab under the roof was mighty wet.
Yeah, but I didn't slip due to wetness. My left foot just popped off as I reached up for that ledge that is up to the right (above the roof). The weak fist jam I had in the crack wasn't strong enough to keep me from tumbling down. My right foot hit the slab wrong and it twisted on impact. It is the same ankle I sprained this winter while walking to work. 
Ouch! 
Ankle is doing fine, though. I'm walking MUCH better today. It's the left knee that is worrying me. It took the brunt of the downclimb through the talus field on the way down. Still, even that's feeling better. I'm thinking I'm still a go this weekend. 
We were below the girl and guy from North Conway (Ice Jock - big, burly guy with curly red hair) and above another guy named Gambo (spelling?) and his partner from Vermont. There were three parties in total ahead of us.
edited to say: thanks to Gambo for getting our gear.
(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Aug 4, 2009, 7:52 PM)
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jakedatc
Aug 4, 2009, 11:29 PM
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Rumney this weekend. Fri till sun.. not..that. anyone here.. ever wants to climb at rumney
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wideguy
Aug 5, 2009, 12:15 AM
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Wow... my last post here was on page 1070.... someone wanna give me the Reader's Digest version of what I missed? Still nothing worthwhile to contribute, just saying hi to old friends.
Short recap.... methotrexate+ 1000mg Naprosyn was working great, thought I might climb again. Naprosyn started eating my liver. Had to stop. Methotrexate alone doesn't cut it. Feet don't fit in my shoes, fat ass doesn't fit in my harness. Still not climbing. C'est la vie.
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robbovius
Aug 5, 2009, 11:37 AM
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wideguy wrote: Wow... my last post here was on page 1070.... someone wanna give me the Reader's Digest version of what I missed? Still nothing worthwhile to contribute, just saying hi to old friends. Short recap.... methotrexate+ 1000mg Naprosyn was working great, thought I might climb again. Naprosyn started eating my liver. Had to stop. Methotrexate alone doesn't cut it. Feet don't fit in my shoes, fat ass doesn't fit in my harness. Still not climbing. C'est la vie.
phew man, naprosyn is nasty shit, they tried that for my chronic headaches and my stomach hurt for two weeks...
damn chad, I keep hopin' fo ya...
Jake it isn't want so much as opportunity...we'll talk the week after next, srsly. headed to Plum island for a week with Pam this saturday. sun, beach, leave mah cares behind...
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AntinJ
Aug 9, 2009, 11:30 PM
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Hey guys, quick question:
I got thrown into the mix when I first started climbing (all of 365 days ago), and I can't remember or think of any sub-5.8 routes that I thought were really fun to top-rope.
I am taking a friend who is new to climbing and has yet to climb outdoors out on Tuesday and I can't decided which Boston crag to take him too.
I have Boston Rocks, but I'm torn between the usual suspects (QQ, HP, CR, B&W, Fells, Gloucester. etc...)
A few routes come to mind, but I'd like some insight to refresh my memory.
Your thoughts?
Also, if there are any new climbers, lurking out there whom have yet to comment on this site - I'd love you input as well.
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Aug 9, 2009, 11:31 PM)
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cracklover
Aug 10, 2009, 4:38 AM
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My first time out I went to Rattlesnake Rocks. To me, it was pretty exciting. Especially Six Pack. Was the only route I didn't get clean on toprope, probably in part because I was so gripped. It's amazing how committing that route felt. It weighed on me for four months, until I went back and sent it (on TR).
That's the one Boston sub-5.8 that really stands out for me.
GO
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AntinJ
Aug 10, 2009, 5:54 AM
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Thanks Gabe - I'll most likely head to Quincy, but I'm also tempted to climb at Red Rock in Gloucester.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 10, 2009, 5:08 PM
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I really like Red Rocks in Gloucester. There's only a few routes that aren't super hard, but the ones that are there are fun. I forget the name, but the obvious flake in the middle is one of my favorite climbs at the grade.
I have a new post up: Cannon: The king of screwing me over is now posted. This was from two weekends ago when Jen and I hopped on Moby.
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AntinJ
Aug 11, 2009, 12:20 AM
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Good stuff guys - as usual thanks for the insight. I think Red Rock offers a more 'outdoorsy' experience, but aside from Zipper 5.6 and Toe Jams 5.5, there are not too many beginner options, I think the Quincy Quarries will be my best choice. And I'll definitely have to go check out "Six Pack" soon; it looks like fun.
Greg - great Cannon story, we were up on the WG this past Friday with the showers and it was an awesome experience! ~ especially when a free soloist cruised past us on the pipe pitch wearing a full rack and interior frame pack!
I've been dying to get on the The Grape, and especially Reppy's since I first heard about it - Thanks for a terrific, detailed adventure summary.
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Aug 11, 2009, 12:36 AM)
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ratherbe
Aug 11, 2009, 1:21 AM
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Reppy's was incredible! It's so sustained, but that also gives you the chance to get into a groove of crack climbing.
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AntinJ
Aug 11, 2009, 2:00 AM
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That's what i'm hoping for!!
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