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AntinJ
Aug 28, 2009, 12:59 AM
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*The WMCC Rendezvous looks awesome - I'll be there as long as it's not as wet as the EMS Nor'easter was during that same weekend last year!
*Finally got on Moby Grape yesterday, it was unbelievable! It truly is the gift that keeps on giving (Triangle-Roof, Finger of Fate, etc). Reppy's just may be my favorite pitch ever!
*Anyone planning on braving the weather @ the Gunks this weekend?
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losbill
Aug 30, 2009, 5:05 PM
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Crow Hill climbers were well represented in the Notch this week. Beside Jason and Chris on Wednesday, Alex and I ran up Thursday PM and did the Eaglet Spire in great weather. Cool, sunshiny with a great breeze. What a relief after all the H&H. Plus super fun climbing.
Friday we did Moby. Once again stellar weather. Had the windbreakers on for the first two pitches. Did the Kurt's Corner finish, IMHO quite superior to the standard finish.
Unbeknown to us, while we were on Moby, the Kinsman's along with Gerry and Jim were over on The British Were Coming. See Doug's write-up under the routes section. Definitely an adventure!
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Gmburns2000
Aug 30, 2009, 5:54 PM
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Have you been out much lately Bill?
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losbill
Aug 30, 2009, 6:25 PM
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Been forcing myself, no matter how hot and humid to get out to CH to boulder on weekdays when it isn't raining. Got three cragging days in at CH with the hard climbing weekday crowd on the few "decent" days we have had over the last few weeks. Prior weeks clipping bolts on hard stuff on the WOEML at Farley since it dries quickly. Earlier a damp weekday at Cathedral and only 4 climbing days out of 7 on three separate weekends at the Gunks due to rain.
I think we have paid our dues weather-wise this summer. Looking forward to exceptionally good weather for the fall!!!
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Gmburns2000
Aug 30, 2009, 6:56 PM
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losbill wrote: Been forcing myself, no matter how hot and humid to get out to CH to boulder on weekdays when it isn't raining. Got three cragging days in at CH with the hard climbing weekday crowd on the few "decent" days we have had over the last few weeks. Prior weeks clipping bolts on hard stuff on the WOEML at Farley since it dries quickly. Earlier a damp weekday at Cathedral and only 4 climbing days out of 7 on three separate weekends at the Gunks due to rain. I think we have paid our dues weather-wise this summer. Looking forward to exceptionally good weather for the fall!!!
+1
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c4c
Aug 30, 2009, 10:11 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: losbill wrote: Been forcing myself, no matter how hot and humid to get out to CH to boulder on weekdays when it isn't raining. Got three cragging days in at CH with the hard climbing weekday crowd on the few "decent" days we have had over the last few weeks. Prior weeks clipping bolts on hard stuff on the WOEML at Farley since it dries quickly. Earlier a damp weekday at Cathedral and only 4 climbing days out of 7 on three separate weekends at the Gunks due to rain. I think we have paid our dues weather-wise this summer. Looking forward to exceptionally good weather for the fall!!! +1
+1
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robbovius
Sep 1, 2009, 10:17 PM
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two days after copping that fun little rope solo onsight, i went back to purgatory with some friends and had a rather different result these pics should tell the story. i spent 11 days in hospital, and came home yesterday.
the accident
after the first surgery
after the second surgery
i have several more surgeries to go, and will just bekickin back on the couch here for at least a couple more weeks. i'm doing okay - though its a bit of a rollercoaster emotionally - but its a really bad break, two fractures in fact. the surgeon hasn't even touched my tibia yet, i have what's classified as a "hawkins III Talar Neck Fracture" google it, and cringe. be glad you're not me.
oh, and since i had to sign a consent form, those bolts and pins were added ethically.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jul 19, 2011, 2:42 PM)
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AntinJ
Sep 1, 2009, 10:58 PM
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Oh No! Rob, What happened??? I'm glad you're ok.
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ratherbe
Sep 1, 2009, 11:02 PM
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Oh, Rob! You're not suppose to injure yourself, that sucks! Hoping for a speedy recovery for you.
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Gmburns2000
Sep 1, 2009, 11:06 PM
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Dayam!!!
Get better Rob. That certainly sucks. I hope it heals and you're up and ready to go in a few months. Good luck with the recovery.
Greg
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olderic
Sep 2, 2009, 12:34 AM
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I'm sorry Rob - I hope they can put you back together again. Get all the 2nd, 3rd and 4th opinions you can before doing anything drastic. Try and find a real sports orthopedic guy who really understands whats important to you.
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cracklover
Sep 2, 2009, 2:41 AM
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Shit. Sorry to hear (and see) that, Rob! Hope you heal up fast, and everything still works at the end of it!
GO
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robbovius
Sep 2, 2009, 4:01 AM
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thanks guys, and girl ;-) its going to be a long road to recovery. Eric my surgeon is a guy out of Umass med center university orthopedic department at their level one trauma center. I like him, very forthright and open with me about the realities of this injury. its a rather bad break. I broke the Talus bone and the Tibia, and dislocated the broken part of the talus bone. the talus is put back together (as much as it can be, part of it was crushed, but they're leaving the tibia alone in order to concentrate on the talar fracture which is more serious and much harder to repair and get to heal effectively.
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losbill
Sep 2, 2009, 8:55 AM
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Rob -- Best wishes for a complete and rapid as possible recovery. --- Bill
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Gmburns2000
Sep 2, 2009, 12:51 PM
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So what happened exactly? 11 days in the hospital is pretty serious.
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wonderwoman
Sep 2, 2009, 1:18 PM
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Poor Rob! Here is to a speedy recovery and as little pain as possible! Feel better soon!
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burrito
Sep 2, 2009, 4:55 PM
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I second...er...third...er...agree with everyone -- feel better soon!!!!!! 
And look on the bright side -- sympathy from others has its definite "ups," including meal service and general helpfulness that is not otherwise displayed. Milk it for all it's worth, buddy. 
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robbovius
Sep 2, 2009, 7:19 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: So what happened exactly? 11 days in the hospital is pretty serious.
Not much to tell really, combination of overconfidence (leading a big powerful and fun overhung start to the Cerberus 5.6, that I've toproped a dozen or more times, and in any other circumstances have totally wired) and humid conditions (greasy rock), led to a fall. There aren't really any good landings at Purgatory. Ankle and back breakers abound. a solid belay on the one piece I had in kept the result from being worse. It sounded like a bag of chicken bones being pounded with a hammer.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Sep 2, 2009, 7:20 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Sep 2, 2009, 7:30 PM
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robbovius wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: So what happened exactly? 11 days in the hospital is pretty serious. Not much to tell really, combination of overconfidence (leading a big powerful and fun overhung start to the Cerberus 5.6, that I've toproped a dozen or more times, and in any other circumstances have totally wired) and humid conditions (greasy rock), led to a fall. There aren't really any good landings at Purgatory. Ankle and back breakers abound. a solid belay on the one piece I had in kept the result from being worse. It sounded like a bag of chicken bones being pounded with a hammer.
sucks. sometimes shit happens. not sure if that is easier to accept or not.
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robbovius
Sep 2, 2009, 11:58 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: robbovius wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: So what happened exactly? 11 days in the hospital is pretty serious. Not much to tell really, combination of overconfidence (leading a big powerful and fun overhung start to the Cerberus 5.6, that I've toproped a dozen or more times, and in any other circumstances have totally wired) and humid conditions (greasy rock), led to a fall. There aren't really any good landings at Purgatory. Ankle and back breakers abound. a solid belay on the one piece I had in kept the result from being worse. It sounded like a bag of chicken bones being pounded with a hammer. sucks. sometimes shit happens. not sure if that is easier to accept or not.
yeah, I was beating myself up about it the saturday after the first surgery and my middle daughter just said, "hey, sometimes you just have to go for it and see what happens..." and she's right.
All the folks I was climbing with there that evening now refer to Cerberus as "The Ankle Breaker", which I think is kinda kewl.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Sep 2, 2009, 11:58 PM)
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cracklover
Sep 3, 2009, 1:14 AM
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Just so I can visualize, you were leading, and when you fell, you decked, but the first piece caught you slightly?
If you'd rather not discuss the details publicly, that's totally fine.
GO
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danamyhaver
Sep 3, 2009, 5:38 AM
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Hey everyone. I am just now getting back into Ma and climbing again after going into the military and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Dana and live in the Worcester area. If any one wants a climbing partner just send me an email. It has been 8 years that I have been gone and alot of the rocks are getting hard to climb because of how wet it has been. I would like to organize some time after the winter a gathering to clean up some of the climbing areas in the area. Time for us climbers to give back to the rocks we love so much. Purgatory is covered in dirt and grimb and even though its not us climbers doing it I saw alot of trash out there. Any input would be great.
Sorry to hear that you got hurt out at purgatory. hope you are able to recover quick and be climbing next year.
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c4c
Sep 3, 2009, 12:19 PM
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danamyhaver wrote: Hey everyone. I am just now getting back into Ma and climbing again after going into the military and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Dana and live in the Worcester area. If any one wants a climbing partner just send me an email. It has been 8 years that I have been gone and alot of the rocks are getting hard to climb because of how wet it has been. I would like to organize some time after the winter a gathering to clean up some of the climbing areas in the area. Time for us climbers to give back to the rocks we love so much. Purgatory is covered in dirt and grimb and even though its not us climbers doing it I saw alot of trash out there. Any input would be great. Sorry to hear that you got hurt out at purgatory. hope you are able to recover quick and be climbing next year.
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olderic
Sep 3, 2009, 2:18 PM
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robbovius wrote: All the folks I was climbing with there that evening now refer to Cerberus as "The Ankle Breaker", which I think is kinda kewl.
We call "my" route at College Rock "Spiral fracture" - not sure that I awnt that as my legacy...
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olderic
Sep 3, 2009, 2:24 PM
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robbovius wrote: Eric my surgeon is a guy out of Umass med center university orthopedic department at their level one trauma center.
Just so long as he is aware of how important physical activity is to you. In my case - it was subtle and I was pretty morphined up - I got the impression that he went through a mental check list that included - job = desk jockey, age = 54 - conclusion is that the simple approach is "good enough" and we don't need to do anything more complicated (read expensive - insurance has a lot to do with it). Now I will never run again - but at least I can still climb. So instill on them that you need your leg/foot/ankle to work right and you're willing to do whatever it takes,
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