|
nkane
Nov 14, 2009, 4:36 AM
Post #27 of 181
(8367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2006
Posts: 143
|
Metolius Curve Hexes.
They have been sitting in a drawer for 18 months.
|
|
|
|
|
Alpine07
Nov 14, 2009, 4:41 AM
Post #28 of 181
(8360 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2007
Posts: 842
|
While it is a struggle to come up with anything negative about climbing gear... I think that the ATC Sport is a pretty worthless piece shite. I've never been a fan of figure eights either.
Edited for idiotic incorrect usage of words... ATC SPORT, not Guide, the guide is friggin awesome.
(This post was edited by Alpine07 on Nov 14, 2009, 3:36 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
herbertpowell
Nov 14, 2009, 4:51 AM
Post #29 of 181
(8351 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2009
Posts: 79
|
1) La Sportiva boots. . . only made in narrow and extra narrow
2) the trend towards micro biners to save weight. I want a lightweight fullsize biner, not a small biner that I can't manipulate with my paws
3) super skinny slings that get mangled after about 2 climbs
|
|
|
|
|
herbertpowell
Nov 14, 2009, 4:54 AM
Post #30 of 181
(8346 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2009
Posts: 79
|
ryanb wrote: Tri-cams. There are some placements where only these will fit. Fortunately most of these placements will have one permanently stuck and the rest are on routes that will be occupied by a dude in a wind shirt and an ecrin rock who will spend 10 minutes pausing in the middle of the easiest section of the route to fiddle a tri-cam into said placement and then announce to all present how glad he is he had them with him.
I'll have you know that I don't have an ecrin rock helmet anymore. I now use a BD helmet!
|
|
|
|
|
maldaly
Nov 14, 2009, 6:55 AM
Post #31 of 181
(8306 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1208
|
Cordalettes are the most useless, overused piece of gear out there. For me anyway.
That was probably me up there, dinkin' in the Tricam and sportin the Ecrin Roc that has saved my life twice. There's still blood in it and I wear it when I'm riding my scooter.
Mal
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 14, 2009, 12:04 PM
Post #32 of 181
(8264 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
ryanb wrote: sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: Link cams. Some people love these things but they have always seemed sketchy to me. Just curious, have you used them more then twice? Absolutely not. I don't use gear that won't hold a fall. I would sooner climb on new aliens then new link cams.  I'm surprised by the sheer ridiculousness of that post.
So let's look at the situation. How many link cams have failed? 1. It was in a shitty pod and it blew from the torque. Okay, so they have to load in the direction of pull, just like most cams. So it was used in a situation the manufacturer tells you not to.
Now the aliens failed due to production failure. They broke below their rated strength on numerous occasions while being used exactly how the manufacturer said they should.
So we have one case of failure in a flared pod or numerous failures in perfect placements. Then let's look at how the companies handled it when there were defects. Yellow link has defects it's all over the net, all in the shops etc. and they replaced them for free. Aliens break and CCH ignored it and claimed they were tensile tested.
So basically I'm going gunna go ahead and assume there's something I missed (fully possible) or that you haven't been paying attention.
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Nov 14, 2009, 2:08 PM
Post #34 of 181
(8239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
I really don't like the klown.
|
|
|
|
|
shoo
Nov 14, 2009, 2:20 PM
Post #35 of 181
(8231 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
|
maldaly wrote: Cordalettes are the most useless, overused piece of gear out there. For me anyway. Mal
You think that's useless, you should try the alpine equalizer. . .
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Nov 14, 2009, 2:46 PM
Post #36 of 181
(8225 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
shoo wrote: maldaly wrote: Cordalettes are the most useless, overused piece of gear out there. For me anyway. Mal You think that's useless, you should try the alpine equalizer. . .
Ouch! 
Unfortunately I have to agree with Shoo. I got the smaller one as a gift and used it once, maybe twice. Been sitting in the "unused" corner of the gear bag ever since.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Nov 14, 2009, 3:08 PM
Post #37 of 181
(8217 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Easy choice for me: The #1 Forged Friend. The width of the stem is actually slightly larger than the cam's retraction width. Really stupid.
|
|
|
|
|
taydude
Nov 14, 2009, 3:15 PM
Post #38 of 181
(8213 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2006
Posts: 531
|
william.alan.swanson wrote: Alpine07 wrote: I think that the ATC Guide is a pretty worthless piece shite. Really? My vote goes to these things:  They're heavy and have the smallest gate opening ever.
LOL I hate these things. I have to use them at the gym all the time to set up anchors. Shoot me.
(This post was edited by taydude on Nov 14, 2009, 3:16 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Alpine07
Nov 14, 2009, 3:33 PM
Post #39 of 181
(8205 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2007
Posts: 842
|
william.alan.swanson wrote: Alpine07 wrote: I think that the ATC Guide is a pretty worthless piece shite. Really? My vote goes to these things: [image]http://www.omegapac.com/media/new_d_opl6_lg.jpg[/image] They're heavy and have the smallest gate opening ever.
Damn, did I really say ATC guide? Well, I definitely meant ATC Sport... Not quite sure how I got that one mixed up, I don't remember drinking that much...
|
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Nov 14, 2009, 3:46 PM
Post #40 of 181
(8192 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
Custom made to short-rope your leader:
|
|
|
|
|
tomtom
Nov 14, 2009, 3:54 PM
Post #41 of 181
(8177 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 366
|
caughtinside wrote: what a retard! Grigris and autolocking harness belts are two of the best things going.
For Sport climbers, maybe. Those and slippers so that they don't have to remember how to tie their shoes.
But if you've ever had to put on your harness with your crampons or skis on or add rain pants while tied in, you'll discover the 'issue' with autolocking harnesses.
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Nov 14, 2009, 4:00 PM
Post #42 of 181
(8170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Nov 14, 2009, 4:34 PM
Post #43 of 181
(8160 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Oh, and I really fucking hate this thing:
Black Diamond markets it as to be used for "triple rope rappels," which are usually 90m or longer per pitch. However, it is really easy to get the knot stuck. Terrible idea.
|
|
|
|
|
Lazlo
Nov 14, 2009, 4:51 PM
Post #44 of 181
(8142 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
|
camhead wrote: Oh, and I really fucking hate this thing: Black Diamond markets it as to be used for "triple rope rappels," which are usually 90m or longer per pitch. However, it is really easy to get the knot stuck. Terrible idea.
What? I do triple rope rappels all the friggen time!
|
|
|
|
|
Lazlo
Nov 14, 2009, 4:56 PM
Post #46 of 181
(8134 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
|
epoch wrote: tomtom wrote: But if you've ever had to put on your harness with your crampons or skis on or add rain pants while tied in, you'll discover the 'issue' with autolocking harnesses. I actually enjoy the autolocking harness simply because it is easier to disassemble/reassemble when you need to put it on over bulky gear or if you need to put pants on while wearing it.
I think we need to clarify the difference of "Speed Buckles" and "Auto-locking harnesses"
|
|
|
|
|
mojomonkey
Nov 14, 2009, 4:59 PM
Post #47 of 181
(8131 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
|
petsfed wrote: The Omega Pacific Doval.
What I came to post. I haven't been trad climbing that long, and these had great reviews when I was accumulating gear. I didn't notice any problem with them until I started getting on climbs where I wasn't using them at huge stances.
|
|
|
|
|
Lazlo
Nov 14, 2009, 4:59 PM
Post #48 of 181
(8131 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
|
BD Speed Buckles
|
|
|
|
|
Lazlo
Nov 14, 2009, 5:11 PM
Post #49 of 181
(8118 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
|
Okay...my bad...I thought there were rock harnessess with these buckles:
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Nov 14, 2009, 5:17 PM
Post #50 of 181
(8111 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: Link cams. Some people love these things but they have always seemed sketchy to me. Just curious, have you used them more then twice? Absolutely not. I don't use gear that won't hold a fall. I would sooner climb on new aliens then new link cams. I'm surprised by the sheer ridiculousness of that post. So let's look at the situation. How many link cams have failed? 1. It was in a shitty pod and it blew from the torque. Okay, so they have to load in the direction of pull, just like most cams. So it was used in a situation the manufacturer tells you not to. Now the aliens failed due to production failure. They broke below their rated strength on numerous occasions while being used exactly how the manufacturer said they should. So we have one case of failure in a flared pod or numerous failures in perfect placements. Then let's look at how the companies handled it when there were defects. Yellow link has defects it's all over the net, all in the shops etc. and they replaced them for free. Aliens break and CCH ignored it and claimed they were tensile tested. So basically I'm going gunna go ahead and assume there's something I missed (fully possible) or that you haven't been paying attention.
Actually, given that unless you aren't some kind of mathematical wunderkind, setting a cam so that it won't rotate at all and is precisely in line with the pull of the rope requires slinging every piece with long enough slings that the rope hangs completely straight down from climber to belayer. If your cam will break under any situation where it rotates, I'd say that's a bug, not a feature. Don't get me wrong, I love the link cams for anchors, but I won't use them if I can't supervise them the entire time they're placed.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
