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Lazlo
Nov 14, 2009, 5:17 PM
Post #51 of 181
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or these buckles;
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caughtinside
Nov 14, 2009, 6:08 PM
Post #52 of 181
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tomtom wrote: caughtinside wrote: what a retard! Grigris and autolocking harness belts are two of the best things going. For Sport climbers, maybe. Those and slippers so that they don't have to remember how to tie their shoes. But if you've ever had to put on your harness with your crampons or skis on or add rain pants while tied in, you'll discover the 'issue' with autolocking harnesses. There's no shortage of trad out there where you don't need crampons, skis or rain pants, hardman. If you're doing special typhoon mountaineering, you might need some specialized gear for that. And now you're bagging on slippers? THose are the best shoes to use at my favorite sport-trad area, the creek. And the grigri is great for trad too.
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coastal_climber
Nov 14, 2009, 6:46 PM
Post #53 of 181
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caughtinside wrote: tomtom wrote: caughtinside wrote: what a retard! Grigris and autolocking harness belts are two of the best things going. For Sport climbers, maybe. Those and slippers so that they don't have to remember how to tie their shoes. But if you've ever had to put on your harness with your crampons or skis on or add rain pants while tied in, you'll discover the 'issue' with autolocking harnesses. There's no shortage of trad out there where you don't need crampons, skis or rain pants, hardman. If you're doing special typhoon mountaineering, you might need some specialized gear for that. And now you're bagging on slippers? THose are the best shoes to use at my favorite sport-trad area, the creek. And the grigri is great for trad too. Ah yes, the world according to caughtinside...
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caughtinside
Nov 14, 2009, 7:21 PM
Post #54 of 181
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coastal_climber wrote: caughtinside wrote: tomtom wrote: caughtinside wrote: what a retard! Grigris and autolocking harness belts are two of the best things going. For Sport climbers, maybe. Those and slippers so that they don't have to remember how to tie their shoes. But if you've ever had to put on your harness with your crampons or skis on or add rain pants while tied in, you'll discover the 'issue' with autolocking harnesses. There's no shortage of trad out there where you don't need crampons, skis or rain pants, hardman. If you're doing special typhoon mountaineering, you might need some specialized gear for that. And now you're bagging on slippers? THose are the best shoes to use at my favorite sport-trad area, the creek. And the grigri is great for trad too. Ah yes, the world according to caughtinside... Yep. I actually enjoy your posts in a twisted way there cam. Because you consistently say amazingly dumb shit.
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camhead
Nov 14, 2009, 7:27 PM
Post #55 of 181
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caughtinside wrote: coastal_climber wrote: caughtinside wrote: tomtom wrote: caughtinside wrote: what a retard! Grigris and autolocking harness belts are two of the best things going. For Sport climbers, maybe. Those and slippers so that they don't have to remember how to tie their shoes. But if you've ever had to put on your harness with your crampons or skis on or add rain pants while tied in, you'll discover the 'issue' with autolocking harnesses. There's no shortage of trad out there where you don't need crampons, skis or rain pants, hardman. If you're doing special typhoon mountaineering, you might need some specialized gear for that. And now you're bagging on slippers? THose are the best shoes to use at my favorite sport-trad area, the creek. And the grigri is great for trad too. Ah yes, the world according to caughtinside... Yep. I actually enjoy your posts in a twisted way there cam. Because you consistently say amazingly dumb shit. Hey CI, could you not call him cam? That's too close to my name. Call him something like "fucktard" or something like that. Oh, and I don't set foot outside my back door without a gri gri. Those things are awesome.
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sungam
Nov 14, 2009, 8:42 PM
Post #56 of 181
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Coastal climber doesn't understand that different gear is better for different stuff. Apparently he doesn't know how easy it is to undo the petzl ziplocks to put the harness on when you forgot and put the crampons on first.
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coastal_climber
Nov 14, 2009, 9:11 PM
Post #57 of 181
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Its called personal preference.
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sungam
Nov 14, 2009, 9:25 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: Its called personal preference. Oh, I see... but when Klown says it it's "the world according to caughtinside"? I'm not hating on you or anything, just saying.
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coastal_climber
Nov 14, 2009, 9:29 PM
Post #59 of 181
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sungam wrote: coastal_climber wrote: Its called personal preference. Oh, I see... but when Klown says it it's "the world according to caughtinside"? I'm not hating on you or anything, just saying. Notice that I didn't start this particular dick-measuring session.
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qwert
Nov 15, 2009, 10:53 AM
Post #60 of 181
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Backt to topic: I actually dont have something least favorite, as in "i really hate that crap", but i would say the camp bolo nuts rank rather high in that regard. Long ago i thought that would be a good idea, for those sport routes where you probably need a nut or two, so you dont have to buy/ carry a whole set. Turns out if you need two nuts, the second one you need is always the most important one, and the one thats hanging on the first nut. also a pain to rack, and you always need the nut on the other side of the side you grabbed it first. I think if i ever need some more nuts, i simply cut away one nut, to have a normal one. qwert
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shoo
Nov 15, 2009, 1:56 PM
Post #61 of 181
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adatesman wrote: acorneau wrote: shoo wrote: maldaly wrote: Cordalettes are the most useless, overused piece of gear out there. For me anyway. Mal You think that's useless, you should try the alpine equalizer. . . Ouch! Unfortunately I have to agree with Shoo. I got the smaller one as a gift and used it once, maybe twice. Been sitting in the "unused" corner of the gear bag ever since. Ouch is right! I dunno though... I kinda like it for the local TR area. Sling 3 trees, clip the AE and huck it over the edge (usually with the Omega D lockers mentioned above at the PP). The auto-adjusting makes it easy to just flip it over/around something to get on another route without re-rigging, which is nice given how short the cliff is. My apologies to Mal and the crew at Trango. That one came out a lot snarkier than I intended. Mal puts together some pretty sweet gear, some of which has become staples on my harness for pure awesomeness (I would name them, but that's another thread). While I don't personally have any use for the alpine equalizer, I could see applications for which it might be a reasonable thing to carry. It's just not going to make the cut for my personal gear sling.
(This post was edited by shoo on Nov 15, 2009, 1:58 PM)
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dbogardus
Nov 15, 2009, 2:31 PM
Post #62 of 181
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moose_droppings wrote: Multi colored spandex pants. You sir, have no style.
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dolphja
Nov 15, 2009, 3:15 PM
Post #63 of 181
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the petzl stop can become the petzl DECK if you aren't careful with it. it will not lock off automatically if something is obstructing the trigger. if you use it, always use a backup. i watched someone freefall 25 feet on this thing yesterday and shattered the bones in their feet with compound factures.
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Couloirman
Nov 15, 2009, 3:50 PM
Post #64 of 181
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qwert wrote: Backt to topic: I actually dont have something least favorite, as in "i really hate that crap", but i would say the camp bolo nuts rank rather high in that regard. [image]http://www.bergfreunde.de/out/oxbaseshop/html/0/dyn_images/1/sol_325-0005_img1.jpg[/image] Long ago i thought that would be a good idea, for those sport routes where you probably need a nut or two, so you dont have to buy/ carry a whole set. Turns out if you need two nuts, the second one you need is always the most important one, and the one thats hanging on the first nut. also a pain to rack, and you always need the nut on the other side of the side you grabbed it first. I think if i ever need some more nuts, i simply cut away one nut, to have a normal one. qwert Wow, thats the worst idea/concept that Ive ever seen. How the hell did that get past the drawing board?
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tomtom
Nov 15, 2009, 4:14 PM
Post #65 of 181
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epoch wrote: tomtom wrote: But if you've ever had to put on your harness with your crampons or skis on or add rain pants while tied in, you'll discover the 'issue' with autolocking harnesses. I actually enjoy the autolocking harness simply because it is easier to disassemble/reassemble when you need to put it on over bulky gear or if you need to put pants on while wearing it. Aack! You're right! I learned something new.
(This post was edited by tomtom on Nov 16, 2009, 8:55 PM)
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tradmanclimbs
Nov 15, 2009, 4:58 PM
Post #66 of 181
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Going to have to 2nd Dovals and tricams
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petsfed
Nov 15, 2009, 5:14 PM
Post #67 of 181
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I've never found symmetry to be as important when setting up a carabiner brake, so the utility crabs I use, namely the Trango Classic Wire Gates, work just fine. I also strongly dislike ovals and light Ds, carrying 2 of the former (good for racking nuts, although i wish I had oval wires so they were lighter) and none of the latter. Boreal Diablos were pretty bad too. Only shoe I've ever seen that hurt but was waaay too big.
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Lazlo
Nov 15, 2009, 6:30 PM
Post #68 of 181
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qwert wrote: Backt to topic: I actually dont have something least favorite, as in "i really hate that crap", but i would say the camp bolo nuts rank rather high in that regard. Long ago i thought that would be a good idea, for those sport routes where you probably need a nut or two, so you dont have to buy/ carry a whole set. Turns out if you need two nuts, the second one you need is always the most important one, and the one thats hanging on the first nut. also a pain to rack, and you always need the nut on the other side of the side you grabbed it first. I think if i ever need some more nuts, i simply cut away one nut, to have a normal one. qwert Seems like a good idea. Doesn't seem like Camp makes them anymore though. Interesting.
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altelis
Nov 15, 2009, 7:05 PM
Post #69 of 181
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petsfed wrote: ... Boreal Diablos were pretty bad too. Only shoe I've ever seen that hurt but was waaay too big. Tell me about it! I got a pair a little big to wear with light socks on cooler long trad climbs. I was about CRYING at the end of the day they were so painful. WTF?
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Rudmin
Nov 16, 2009, 2:37 AM
Post #70 of 181
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Metolius PAS. It's not terrible or anything, but every time I look at it I remember how much I paid for something that I could easily replace with knotted webbing or a piece of cord.
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knieveltech
Nov 16, 2009, 3:03 AM
Post #71 of 181
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Dovals, the buckles on my n00btech harness and tricams bigger than pink.
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dugl33
Nov 16, 2009, 5:15 AM
Post #72 of 181
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I won't let anyone near one of my ropes with one of these, even though this is what I started with BITD. (oh, and someone gave me some OP lockers, free. free was way too expensive.)
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ryanb
Nov 16, 2009, 6:35 AM
Post #73 of 181
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sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: Link cams. Some people love these things but they have always seemed sketchy to me. Just curious, have you used them more then twice? Absolutely not. I don't use gear that won't hold a fall. I would sooner climb on new aliens then new link cams. I'm surprised by the sheer ridiculousness of that post. So let's look at the situation. How many link cams have failed? 1. It was in a shitty pod and it blew from the torque. Okay, so they have to load in the direction of pull, just like most cams. So it was used in a situation the manufacturer tells you not to. Now the aliens failed due to production failure. They broke below their rated strength on numerous occasions while being used exactly how the manufacturer said they should. So we have one case of failure in a flared pod or numerous failures in perfect placements. Then let's look at how the companies handled it when there were defects. Yellow link has defects it's all over the net, all in the shops etc. and they replaced them for free. Aliens break and CCH ignored it and claimed they were tensile tested. So basically I'm going gunna go ahead and assume there's something I missed (fully possible) or that you haven't been paying attention. You did miss something. There have been two Link Cam failures, I'm assuming you know about the one at Jtree (Left Ski Track), there was also one at Smith. Both total link coupling failure due to placements in constrained pods as you mention. OP's handling of both events was ok (I think the cams should be recalled) but they now advise that links not be used in situations where their rotation is constrained. The thing is, the majority of falls I have taken on cams have been on placements in some kind of pod, pin scar or constraining slot. This kind of placement is quite common on thin routes on granite. I can think of lots of spots at my local crags where the only piece of gear protecting a mandatory runout is a link sized cam you wiggle into a placement ... other cams are beyond bomber in this situation (a .75 camalot in pod feels like a bolt to me), links break. I think the only reason more links haven't broken and people haven't died is that most people leading 5.11 are too smart to trust their lives to such a piece of junk. I actually can't think of anyone who leads 5.11 regularly and has them on their rack. Aliens on the other hand still get used, they crop up in BD adds and I've met climbers sponsored by other companies that keep a few hidden away. There is no denying that CCH has the worst quality control in the history of climbing gear but their design is brilliant, the OP design is flawed. I'm not actually buying any new aliens but if you offered me a rack of free ones I'd test the hell out of em and climb on ones whose heads were still on.
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sungam
Nov 16, 2009, 9:53 AM
Post #74 of 181
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ryanb wrote: sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: Link cams. Some people love these things but they have always seemed sketchy to me. Just curious, have you used them more then twice? Absolutely not. I don't use gear that won't hold a fall. I would sooner climb on new aliens then new link cams. I'm surprised by the sheer ridiculousness of that post. So let's look at the situation. How many link cams have failed? 1. It was in a shitty pod and it blew from the torque. Okay, so they have to load in the direction of pull, just like most cams. So it was used in a situation the manufacturer tells you not to. Now the aliens failed due to production failure. They broke below their rated strength on numerous occasions while being used exactly how the manufacturer said they should. So we have one case of failure in a flared pod or numerous failures in perfect placements. Then let's look at how the companies handled it when there were defects. Yellow link has defects it's all over the net, all in the shops etc. and they replaced them for free. Aliens break and CCH ignored it and claimed they were tensile tested. So basically I'm going gunna go ahead and assume there's something I missed (fully possible) or that you haven't been paying attention. You did miss something. There have been two Link Cam failures, I'm assuming you know about the one at Jtree (Left Ski Track), there was also one at Smith. Both total link coupling failure due to placements in constrained pods as you mention. OP's handling of both events was ok (I think the cams should be recalled) but they now advise that links not be used in situations where their rotation is constrained. The thing is, the majority of falls I have taken on cams have been on placements in some kind of pod, pin scar or constraining slot. This kind of placement is quite common on thin routes on granite. I can think of lots of spots at my local crags where the only piece of gear protecting a mandatory runout is a link sized cam you wiggle into a placement ... other cams are beyond bomber in this situation (a .75 camalot in pod feels like a bolt to me), links break. I think the only reason more links haven't broken and people haven't died is that most people leading 5.11 are too smart to trust their lives to such a piece of junk. I actually can't think of anyone who leads 5.11 regularly and has them on their rack. Aliens on the other hand still get used, they crop up in BD adds and I've met climbers sponsored by other companies that keep a few hidden away. There is no denying that CCH has the worst quality control in the history of climbing gear but their design is brilliant, the OP design is flawed. I'm not actually buying any new aliens but if you offered me a rack of free ones I'd test the hell out of em and climb on ones whose heads were still on. To each their own, I guess. I know their limitations and use them in the way they were designed. Just like a beaner loaded over and edge, a link cam loaded with torque. Aliens have one of the best designs, yes. I have both Aliens and Links on my rack, but only one link. I like it because despite it's limitations in placements it's still has one of the highest versatility to weight ratios on my rack.
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